This was part of the much larger project of putting the freshwater compartment back together, but I decided to break it up into smaller segments to make it more easily searchable. I replaced the original gate valve with two full flow ball valves. The reason for doing so is to make the job of removing the water heater a bit less messy. When I took our water heater out way back at the beginning of this project, I discovered that just shutting off the one valve that was there does nothing to keep the coolant from pouring out of the other side of the loop.... Doh! :o Having to valves limits the coolant loss to just what is in the two short lengths of hose that go from the valves to the water heater. It also makes it easier to install and remove because you can just remove the hose after the valve and leave the short sections attached to the water heater instead of contorting to reach behind the water heater. Likewise, I am using some soft hoses to go to the manibloc via a couple of ball valves so you can undo those from the front rather than at the back of the heater. It is a simple project... as long as the water heater is out, but one that falls under the category of "while you are at it..."
There is a 12" X 12" piece of 3/4" plywood under the fiberglass skin that starts 4 1/2" off the bottom and 8" from the outside edge. I placed the valve mounting block so that I could screw into that to secure the assembly, along with some VHB style double stick tape between the block and the fiberglass. The mounting block material is some scrap aluminum left over from another project.
Don
P.S. I should add that you only need close one valve to boost the dash heat.
Don, all the work on the coach looks great,with all the changes you have made you will have to write a new owner's manual,( now let me see ,which valve do I turn off first :)) :)) )
We had unused Manibloc valves and connected water heater in & out to them. Can now turn water heater off to remove water heater or winterize coach.
Also on another pair of unused Manibloc valves put a loop from hot to cold. We keep these closed, only to open them as a water heater bypass if we have to winterize the coach.
Thanks Bill, good point. That does remind me that I still have to do the labeling for all of the valves before I can call it done...
Thanks Barry,
I added two ball valves at the top of the manibloc, but they aren't the in picture yet because the water heater doesn't go in until I am satisfied that there are no leaks and everything is caulked etc. We don't have an unused manibloc pair, just one for the unused hot side of the toilet... I was looking at pictures of your setup and wondering where you sourced those braided stainless hoses that you used. I presume that they have swivel fittings that are 1/2" FPT... the closest thing I have seen to those locally are washing machine supply hoses that use smaller diameter hose than what it looks like from your pictures. The flex hoses that I found for the water heater install are 3/4" with FTP pipe swivel fittings and were only available shorter lengths so I had to use two with a close pipe nipple to get the length for one of the water heater i/o's. This meant extra fittings (1/2" brass street elbows, 1/2" brass hex short pipe nipple, 1/2" female to 3/4" male brass bushings at the water heater, and Pex 1/2" to 3/4" MPT fittings at the valves on the manibloc.
Don
Don
If I had not been following this thread ages ago it would appear to me that you are building a new coach on an old Foretravel chassis....Oh you are!!!!! :D :D :D Hope yoy get on the road soon and kick back a little.
Roland