Anyone ever repair or replace the spring on their manual Zip Dee patio awning themselves? Our spring apparently "let go" and now it does not roll up by the spring actuation. Can I take the back end out and refasten the spring, or is it trash, and just try to order a new one. Unfortunately our awning is a 1989 production and the last time we tried to get a part we were told they no longer had parts for that era model.
Did the spring break or did it loose some of it's tension? Gam
My ZipDee spring broke...the one over the slide. They sell a replacement spring to pop-rivet in place after you pull the old one out. Then you wind the arm. As I recall, the new spring had good clear instructions. A second helper was needed, but didn't take too long and the ZipDee folks were very responsive and helpful.
Nitehawk, Call Zipdee and order a new one, be prepared to tell them the length of the awning.
BE CAREFUL and follow their directions , that spring can jump up and bite you when you least expect it.
Gary B
Hi Nitehawk,
I think you will need to know the diameter. My 1997 has a two inch, and a two and one half inch diameter available.
Raymond
Nitehawk where are you located? If in florida, I might have just what you need. I have several zipdee awning springs for the main awning. You can call me 813 215 3463
Rare to break. Not rare to lose tension.
Bob
I actually have a spare used one I bought when I thought mine broke. Are you close to Joplin, mo.? I paid $125 for it if interested.
We are located in Wausau, Wisconsin, almost dead center in the state. It is, I believe, without going out this early in the morning, 18 feet long. The spring provided absolutely ZERO assist the last time I tried to put it up in the store position. It seemed, on previous occasions, that it took more and more assistance to "help" it get started to rewind. I realize the instructions say to help it rewind for about 12 to 18 inches on its way, but it was taking more and more distance the last few times.
Today is my 71st birthday so I will be quite busy doing a whole lot of nothing, but will try to answer everybody's questions regarding measurements, etc, tomorrow.
Thanks,
Norm/nitehawk
Ours was the same. Matter of fact, I had to stand on a step ladder and roll it to the top by hand. Turned out the spring just needed to be wound. Works fine now. Hope you have the same issue.
jor
Jor, thanks but two years ago the rear rafter pewter casting end broke during a downpour while we were at Cagle CG between Huntsville and Conroe. I had to unwind the spring, install the new rafter arm casting and then rewind the spring. A bit scarey until I used the main arm for a winder wrench. Worked great then. But, I think something let go inside as it was taking more and more effort to get the rolled up awning up high enough so the weakened spring would take it the rest of the way. Has anyone ever been able to just take the spring assembly out and then repin/poprivet/bolt the whole thing back together?
Jeff, we plan on heading south mid- to end of October. Might be interested if right length and right part if I haven't rectified the problem by then.
I wonder if there my be some dirt or gunk on/in the end caps. When I went to ZipDee for new material they told me my end caps were gunked up that be why I had to "help" the awning roll itself up.
Roland
I have also found that some of the springs have a wooden dowel inside the spring, which can swell and make the awning spring seem like it is weak. A friend of mine thought his spring was broken and thought it did not have any tension on it. He unhooked the arm from the head and the head came around and broke several of his fingers as that spring has many turns of tension, so be carefull
How could the resulting binding be addressed?
Bob
After trying several different brands of lubricants, I found CRC Marine 6-56 Multi-Purpose Lube to be just the perfect
miracle product!!! I tried them all and then tried the CRC Marine 6-56, which made the awning work perfect!!!!
OK, opened the awning all the way. Unbolted the main support arm from the coach. Unwound the spring (c-clockwise) until no tension and #10-32 x1-1/2" long bolt could be removed without pressure on it. Chiseled off four (4) aluminum rivet heads holding the end cap on. Removed end cap and friction washer. Pulled out spring assembly. Spring is intact but "knarly" at end cap end (kinda twisted-not like rest of spring). Entire spring assembly (Zip Dee part #201100 P.A. spring assembly) is only about 5' long. Apparently used for all length awnings. Just a different location for the "catch rivet" that contacts the inside end of the spring assembly.
I think, because the main tube has a bow in it and the short rivets I added for a Paddy Shade screen, causes enough binding that the spring cannot operate effectively. I followed the Zip Dee instructions--one turn per foot of awning length plus seven additional turns with no result. I added an additional six turns and sprayed the outside surface of the spring (before assembly) and now the awning will self-store at the last two feet.
Nighthawk,
Did you get a chance to take any photos? Really curious to know what the inside of these things look like.
jor
I believe you would have to take the end caps off and clean them in solvent then add some dry silicone lubricant. I was at Zip Dee having new material and asked them to tighten up the springs cause mine did not go up very well. They showed me the gummed up end caps. Had 20 years of dirt and crap accumulation, work great now. I watched them take the ends off, doesn't look difficult, just have to have help and be careful unwinding and winding the flat spring.
Roland