I completed the installation of the Atwood 3 way water heater. Upon making the propane connection on the copper tubing at the water heater, I noticed a kink in the tubing. Fortunately there was enough slack to pull it out far enough to cut the end off and re-flare the tubing. In looking at the cut off and, it seems to have some sort of gasket or insert in the end of the tube. As far as I know, the flare of the copper is soft enough to conform to the fitting to make a seal. Is LP gas different? Should I add a flare gasket to the connection? The last picture is a close up the original end.
Don
Don, it looks like the cutoff end has a double flair.
Like the end is folded over itself... but the inside almost looks like brass.
Yes, it is a double flare. My flaring tool will make both single and double flares but it takes a bit of practice to get the double one to come out right. In my opinion, the single flare will work just fine for this application
I learned something new today! I've never run into the single versus double flare on copper tubing before... a little research, and now I feel more educated about the subject. I hope the single flare is adequate, it passed the bubble test so far... I'm not sure if there would be enough tubing to do a clean-cut and redo with a double flare. Of course I could potentially cut it back farther and add a coupling and a another short piece of tubing, but I'd rather not have to do that if I don't need to.
Thanks for the answers!
Don
I also learned something new as I had never heard of a double flare. I have used flare joints many times in the past, for fuel oil, gasoline, water and propane. Never used a double flare and never had an issue.
Roland
Double flared tubing is required in many applications, fuel lines, brake lines, for a mini example.
Hi Don,
The bubble test with soap and water gives you a good first glance test for leaks. The hardware store should have a little bottle of leak test fluid that hangs on to the joint longer. It is more viscous and doesn't run off as quickly. Most bubble or foam up if there is a leak.
A pressure test (done with air) at 10-15psi for at least 10 minutes with no loss of pressure (use an appropriately sensitive guage) is similar to what most municipal codes require for gas lines. Lots more vibration and stress in a coach so best be sure it is right. Probably a good idea to check joints once a year or so and make sure your LP gas detector is functioning.
Roger