Can anyone enlighten me on the door step hardware on my 2002? I took apart the pins and clevis joint and cleaned them up, as there was a lot of rust on the nut and hinge. When I got to the back side and tried to take it apart, I noticed that the end of the rod actually had a bend in the thread area.
My question is, what is on the other end of the rod? I just put everything back together, but it looks like I should replace the 1/4 inch rod. I haven't explored exactly what is inside there and how it comes apart (too hot here), but I thought I'd ask and see if someone else had already explored it.
Thanks!
Brad, maybe your 2002 is diffewrent than mine but if it is the air operated single swing down step I have had mine off and repaired it totally. Post a pic so we can see what you are talking about
John H
I think it is the same type, John. A single swing-down air-operated step. A plate welded on each side that the stainless rod connects to via what looks like a 1/2 turnbuckle clevis. A single nut on each locking it into place, since the rod will spin.
I am thinking that if I can remove the arm, at least the one, I can replace it with a simple stainless steel 1/4" rod. It has about an inch of threads to handle the nut and the clevis affair on the end I can see...I just don't know what/how the rod is attached to the actuator. My coach was left out in the rain in NC or SC for a while and there was a lot of rust on the pieces that weren't stainless. Attached are three pictures. The overal step, the bent left arm and the normal right arm. The bend is wholly contained in the thread area.
Brad, that rod that is bent is actually a ram for the air cylinder, likely you will need at least a new ram if not a complete cyl. You may get luckey and be able to remove the cylinder and carefully streighten the rod if it has not damaged the cylinder it's self.
My 1999 U295 has a bend in the threaded section of the shaft of the left hand cylinder just like yours. Because that part of the shaft doesn't retract into the cylinder it doesn't cause an air leak. I believe the shaft was bent went the step was assembled at the MFG. It's been that way for the 4 years I have had my coach so I just let it be.Gam
Here is a recent picture of the whole assembly from my '99 if that helps.
So Bob, the question is why was yours apart.
Hi John,
I had to replace a rotted front entry step and riser. The thin pan underneath the step was also corroded through in places. Removing the fiberglass box made repair much easier. It allowed me to slide the new HDPE step all the way under the threshold and be supported by sitting on the box beam and being screwed to the bottom of the new riser. Then I added a piece of epoxy coated exterior plywood underneath the HDPE and fastened it to the box beam, the rest of the plywood box structure and the HDPE. I could not have done this with the box in place. Fortunately, removal and replacement of the box is pretty simple.
Thanks to MAZ and others who have done this before me for their descriptions and pictures.
Bob
Brad it is a simple job to remove and take apart. Drill out the rivets holding it to coach then once off carefully pry around the metal edge and fibreglass outer step cover to be able to see and get to framework. A hard caulk ?? was used when built but it does come apart. Once you get to that stage I am sure the inside will be a mass of rust etc and you can either take it to get sandblasted orgrind and scrape as much off as possible. Once this is done you should coat it with Phosphoric acid (POR 15 or similar) to seal and control the rust. This can be painted once dry. I drilled 4 --1/4" holes in the bottom flange of step frame so that in the up position any water that gets in will drain out the bottom. I also drilled an 1/8th inch hole in fiberglass cover to align with these holes in frame again so any water runs out. I used a Poly urethane caulk when putting cover of step back on.
It is then refastened to hinge with pop rivets or?
The bend on threaded rod can be straightened but the shaft will need to be supported so it is not bent. Easy job just time getting it rust free.
Need more info just email
John H
Wow, that sounds like a lot of work.
Wow! Thanks for the picture and instructions, everyone. That makes the assembly pretty clear. I'll investigate further just what the situation is.
If I need new air-rams, and I might, can someone point me to a source for them? I managed to score the rods a little while tearing the rusted nut off and if the scoring is back far enough that it goes inside the cylinder when I put air to it, well...I won't be able to just leave it alone.
the cylinders are held into the back wall of "box" with 4-- small bolts. Just lie under and you will see the nuts you need to take off then the cylinder just pulls out the front with air line. They are pressed into the fitting by a quick connect ring so just push the end of fitting in and the line will come out by pulling lightly.. The little bolts are a b--ch to get back in place as it is awkward so I tack welded them to the bracket they go thru so It was easy to locate in the back of box and I did not need to hold a screwdriver on them to run the nuts on the back. The only way it will leak air is if the scratch is exactly were it stops on both direction ie near the end of stroke. You may be lucky!!!
This really is an easy job to do but can be messy. Do not put it back together without drilling those drain holes or you will be doing it all again in a few years.
John H
Well, I aired up the system and the step stopped part-way up. I sanded my gouged section and then it closed all the way...and didn't seem to leak...so far.
In my internet quest, I learned that these things are $139-$200 each! I managed to find the number with a flashlight and mirror. It is an: ARO Economair 2418-1089-080 and some other unnecessary numbers. I'll put that on Barry's part list. The numbers indicate that this is a round cushioned cylinder (24) that has a 1-1/8" bore size (18), it is double-acting with a rear tang(-1), with a nitrile O-ring (0) and a 303 stainless rod (89) and a stroke length of 8" (-080). If anyone knows of a less expensive alternative, I'd love to hear about it.
I bought some from Foretravel for around $130 a few years ago. The original part number was not the same as the new part. I have the number from mine somewhere if you need it but parts dept should know. The manufacturer price was a little higher than the factory price IIRC.
Mark
my spare ones say Economair 2418-B111-R02. and ARO
John
Thanks. When I headed to Barry's part number page to post it, I found your post and part number already there, Mark. I see John has the other part number listed too.
Is this the same cylinder part that activates the sliding step cover? Mine leaks when the slide is retracted. I was also wondering how to acess it since it appears to be partially behind the drivers side air tank.