This just started yesterday. When I flush the toilet and the flap opens and closes -- it doesn't stop, but starts another cycle as if I had pushed the handle again. It does not open the water-feed valve again. Taking the lid off, I found the fuse holder, and have to loosen the cap to stop the cycling.
Anyone experienced this? -- and if so, what is the fix?
Follow the linkage from the flap valve back to the cam and micro switch.
First guess is a broken cam .
When you press the handle you bypass the micro switch that rides on the cam.
As soon as the motor turns the cam that switch will then power the the motor until the micro switch again sets in the detent on the cam taking power off the motor until you press the flush handle again.
I guess it could also be the micro switch that the flush handle actuates.
Thanks, John
Yeah -- I thought it was maybe just the micro-switch on the cam. Removed it and was going to try Radio Shack.
But after reading your comment-- I put it back on and watched the Cam itself this time, and yep - it has a cracked hub. So when it comes to the stop position it slips on the drive shaft and starts another cycle.
So I called the Distributor at 866-840-4944 and left a message about a replacement. If anyone knows an alternative source or has a good used one please let me know.
It is a Microphor Microflush LF-220
Be careful out there,
Michael
I got a spare from MOT when I needed one.
A little plumbers grease on the inside of the toilet where the rubber seal on the flapper valve contacts the toilet will make it move with less load on that linkage and cam.
Look closely at the clevis rod end in that linkage. They crack too.
Just replaced my broken identical part.
The factory guy said no more than three turns on the tightening screw on the replacement cam. Finesse. Plastic part.
Bob
I agree, but my experience says that keeping the seal and the flapper
wet is the single most important thing one can do to keep the seal.
Mine was leaking down after the winterization - I forgot to leave some antifreeze in the toilet. I put about 3 or 4 paper towels in the "throat" of the toilet and kept them wet for a week. That cured the leaking down problem.
So I tackled the job of removing the cam wheel today to fix it. New replacements are only $20 (+shipping) but it would have meant waiting for it to come from New Jersey to Southern Cal.There were two thru-cracks in the bore where it mates to the motor shaft. So I kneaded-up some JB stick weld, pried the cracks a bit more open with a jewelers screwdriver (to about .020) and forced some of the JB into them and significantly reinforced the area on both sides of the wheel.
After curing it in the Sun for about 2 hours with it clamped to completely close up the cracks -- I re-assembled it all, which takes some dexterity with the fingers while sitting on the toilet seat and reaching with both hands down into the tank, and a bit of "feeling" where the lock-washer and nut go to re-attach the linkage to the wheel.
I sprayed a spritz of white lithium grease on the swivel ball-end of the linkage before re-attaching it and applied a thin coat of vaseline on the outer rim of the cam wheel where it rides on the micro-switch roller.
I then turned the screw clockwise on the timer about 3/8's of a turn to raise the water level in the tank another full inch above the flapper which now allows a "one-time" flushing of solids. That was my main complaint with this unit until the cam wheel slippage started.
I may have to lower that water level when traveling but it only takes a few seconds to do.
Oh, to Gary O -- I've checked those other area's you wrote me about -- it seems all good for now, but I am thinking about re-locating the timer so it could not get wet and short-out from a leaking vacuum-breaker.
So -- it's A-okay and operating better than ever. I'm thinking the reinforcement with the JB Weld should prevent a re-occurrence.
Hopefully.
Be careful out there,
Michael
Had the same problem, used JB weld to "temporarily" fix the hub while I ordered a new one. That was over a year ago, still using the repaired hub.
Rland
Yep, gluing the flapper shut will do it every time!!