We have the silver round 6 wire plug set, which is adequate when it works. The problem; it doesn't always work, certainly not reliably.
I would like to replace it with something better. Will need plug and socket and probably the mounting bracket.
The problem is generally not the plug itself, but water getting into the wire end of the plugs and/or corrosion or broken wires, same location.
I route the wire through a 3' hose with an ID that just fits over the "wire end" of the plug. After connecting the wires, seal the other end of the hose with silicone. This will keep water and dirt from getting into the back of the plug and will eliminate water damage and most corrosion damage.
Brett
From the above post, the plug area gets a lot of moisture plus if driven in winter, corrosive chemicals mix in with the moisture making a possibility a probability. I'm sure you remember some "other side of the pond" cars that could not even be driven on wet roads. After sealing the plug as Brett suggests there are several testers available that you just plug them in and with someone operating the lights, brakes, etc., you can see if everything is working. A lot better than plugging in the toad and when something does not light, wondering where the problem is.
Here is the tester for $13. 7 Way Trailer Connector Vehicle Tester Tow Ready Wiring TR20117 (http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/TR20117.html)
Lots of other testers available for different plug styles.
Pierce
We decided to change our tow wiring plug to a new standard 7-connector style, so we can carry more circuits in our tow cable.
Any experiences with plugs that use blades rather than pins? Something like this: Item # 12-706, Trailer-End Only- Plug On Pollak (http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/item/connectors/rv-connectors-heavy-duty-adaptors/12-706?)
I have tried spreading the pins in the socket on the car, but I'm afraid of breaking them. I don't think the socket and plug I have are an exact match; the set was installed by Camping World and I had to replace the plug (another story) which I got at an auto parts store. They just don't seem to fit quite right.
I change out the existing type plug as soon as trouble starts, takes about 15 minutes. I also hit both ends of the plug and receptacles with silicone spray every time I hook up. The silicone helps keep the plugs clean and helps prevent corrosion.
We are using the plug in your #12-706 link for our 7-wire cable and it works just fine, though being a little larger than our original round-pin plug.
Just to finish this...I also changed to a 7 conductor set-up. I bought Hopkins Plug 48500 ($11.42) and Socket 48480 ($10.91). My mistake was ordering from RVUpgrades and the shipping was $12.27!!! I later found them on Amazon, eligible for FREE shipping.
Our plug on the FT was never wired to include a Stop light signal. We spliced into the high stop light and now we have red stop lights on the car. We were also able to wire the Trickle Charger through this set-up, which was great because it eliminated a separate cable!
Happy now. Thanks to help from son-in-law.
It is great that the additional tow cable plug connector makes it easy to add trickle charger, which eliminates all kinds of problems by keeping tow car battery under charge when connected.
For new tow car wiring, check out TowDaddy, which we have on our 2012 Jeep Grand. It uses tow car tail light bulbs without any wire cutting. We think it the best thing since sliced bread.
Tow Daddy - The Best Designed RV Products on the Planet (http://towdaddy.com/)
I put in a second bulb in the tail lights. Barry, I tow a jeep and there is no drain on either the wrangler or the grand Cherokee when towing. In fact I have left it hooked up for five days going cross country and no draining.