The seals on my slides are not inflating after I retract the slides. I think the problem is that the 12 V air compressor is not running.
I know it was running last month when we purchased the coach at MOT. I had them replace the desiccant before we left, and it ran for a few minutes after that procedure.
At some point in the last few weeks it seems to have quit operating. I never hear it running. The 5A inline fuse by the compressor is OK.
Is there a gauge that indicates whether there is pressure in that tank? Anything else that I should check? We will be at FOT and MOT in October so I can have one or the other look at it then.
Thanks, Ken
You might check along that wire where you found the in-line fuse to see if someone has installed a simple On/Off switch. Some have added one.
If there is a gauge for that tank, it would most likely be pretty easy to spot and would be close to the 12 volt compressor. Lacking a gauge, you could find out if there is any pressure in the slide tank by opening the tank drain located in front of the left front tire. You should find three tank drain valves there, and for us the slide tank is farthest outboard. If you open it and no air escapes, the tank is likely empty.
I think there is a circuit breaker for that compressor, in addition to the in-line fuse, and it is located in the back of the same bay as the compressor behind a fairly large panel held in place with 3 or 4 wing nuts. Others can give you better information on the CB; I have never had to reset it.
Also, there are valves on the slide manifolds. They have to be Open to inflate the seals. These manifold(s) are in the same bay on the front bulkhead and the valves are at the top of the manifold.
Good luck.
Kevin,
You might try the "air tank" switch on the left side of the driver to see if that circuit will make it come on. Also remove the cover on the pressure switch (at the compressor) output to see if manual movement downward will make the compressor run.
If you have an air powered patio awning /Auto Awn by Zip Dee then the air gauge is at the green box just inward from the DC air compressor. Typical readings are about 95 PSI+. Without the Auto awning control box, a gauge may be near the compressor itself.
Seldom would the compressor itself be at fault unless it ran forever and burned out. Cause for the compressor to run excessively often is due to a poor seal of the desiccant filter or the solenoid (normally open except when running) below it.
Lastly, check to see if someone has shut off the bladder valve - high inside and toward the rear of the first compartment on the drivers side, behind the front wheel.
Call Mike on emergency help line - seals need to inflate to k=noise, water and ? as you move -
Mike Rogers after hours number at MOT is 936 462-3996
There is no gauge on the aux compressor. A lot of us have put one on by using a "T" at the compressor.
I have put gauges on both bladder manifolds to see the bladder pressure (12 psi) also
Barry,
You probably already know this but they make compound gauges that display both vacuum and pressure.
This might be a good one (although a much larger than your current): Mityvac MVA6170 Compound Gauge : Amazon.com : Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6170-Compound-Gauge/dp/B002YK77G4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1379816192&sr=8-3&keywords=COMPOUND+PRESSURE+GAUGE)
Thanks John,
Richard Bark was telling me about them this week. I was not aware of them. Looks like a good idea. Fortunately I just check the bladder gauges monthly.
When you crank the big engine does the engine compressor fill the bladders at that time?
If the aux compressor does not come on and all the air is gone from the HWH system then only the engine compressor will fill that system. You may have to run the engine ever so often to keep air in the system. Make sure your 24 volt system in on at the switch right of the entrance door step. DAN.
There is a check valve on line 57 preventing engine compressor from filling bladders.
KenB
Let us know what you finally find. Thanks
Barry my ck valve must not be working on line 57. If this is open then I am not sure I want to change it; but, I will be at FOT Tuesday 25th for windshield and awning repair so I will have them look at it. Could be the reason my aux compressor runs so long before it cuts off. Tks for the input. DAN
If the check valve was not working it would have back fed air to the bladder.
If you had a bladder leak without the check valve you would drain the air from line 50 and line 28 going to the manifolds.
The check valve is the protection from that happening and limits the air loss to the bladder.
Hope I do not add confusion, for I am not sure I understand what everyone is seeing. This is what I had. A failed check valve, and I think it 57 but three had failed, was causing my auxiliary air compressor to try to fill all three front air tanks when parked in auto level.
I know some say, as I read them, that they have a switch that allows that 12 v compressor to air all the tanks so it seems then that even with the failure of my check valves that I should have been ok, just let it run and run. (However I found a reference somewhere, maybe HWH, that I should not have that compressor run more than a few minutes. I think that varies by model of the compressor!)
However service folks (phone call for help) were adamant that I needed to pull the fuse on my 12 v compressor to stop it from running for what seemed would be forever. It came on (I was parked) when the air brake tanks fell to about 60 psi and it was trying to get the system up to the 125 psi, I guess. It should have only been, on mine, pressurizing the third small tank for the bladder and leveling. After those check valves were replaced, the 12v aux compressor does not try to pressurize the brake tanks.
(I really hope this helps the dialogue, not confuse it.)
Mike
Mike/Barry: OK, As this is beyond my ability, I will have FOT look at these valves. I am going to ask my service writer if they can put their best air guy on it. I know I have an air leak at the awning in line bowl at the bottom where you push to release any water in the system. Mine is always dry. DAN
For Clarification:
Line 57 Check valve prevents air from coming back towards the aux compressor
The 2 check valves on the Front & rear Air tanks prevents leveling air to feed the brake lines if you have a leak in the brake lines.
As you saw when you replaced those 2 check valves.
But if you have a leak in the leveling side, air will drain from the brake lines thru those 2 check valves to the leveling side.
Barry and Dan, maybe not apples and apples for you Dan with the 2001, but when my 12 v compressor stops, it seems to pressure release somehow thru the glass bowl that has condensed the water and blows that water out.
At least that is what seems to happen. Happened to be there once when it stopped running and exhausted.
I recall asking David Whitehead one time, what am I to do about that water in that bowl? He said not to worry, it would take care of it. Maybe he meant the exhausting would? Not sure. But am pretty sure that is what I saw it do to empty the condensate. Hmmm?
mike
When I refer to dry in the bowl it is the one by the awning box. When my aux compressor cuts off it will also blow a lot of water out with the air. DAN
I had to get the coach out of the driveway for another project, so I am unable to do anything further with it for a week or two.
In general I don't mind DIY projects, but the whole brake/leveling/slide seal system seems very complex to me, and I have no experience working with anything like it before. I expect I will have FOT fix it when we are there next month.
In the month since we made the purchase, we have also had the following problems:
Replaced an older chassis battery that would not charge. That was not a big deal.
The rear air conditioner doesn't appear to be putting out cold air. Also not a big deal, but something to have fixed.
A nearly new house battery went bad while charging. That was scary as the battery and battery compartment got very hot. BTW, the hydrogen emitted by the battery apparently set off the LP gas detector. The manufacturer confirmed that the LP detector (MTI 40-442) will alert to hydrogen gas. The batteries were all installed at the same time and are wired in parallel, so I don't know why one would go bad without the others unless it was the battery itself. I am hoping the battery will be covered under warranty by the manufacturer.
Sometimes the generator will start and then shut down after about 15 seconds with a flashing oil warning light, which according to the manual indicates low oil or coolant. I have checked and both are OK, so I don't know if it is a sensor problem or something else, such as a weak oil or water pump, etc. Other times it runs fine. I am not a diesel mechanic, so would prefer that it actually fail so that I could get it fixed.
So far I am not thrilled with the headache/enjoyment ratio, but it is early days. :-)
It helps that it is finally cooling off here in Texas so that it isn't brutal just to stand outside and look at it. :-)
Thanks for all of the suggestions, Ken
Ken, If your 5 amp fuse is good. Now check the manually RESETTABLE circuit breaker.
There is a tiny black button on the C/B that needs to be pushed in to reset the C/B.
I believe that is the problem you have if the compressor is not coming on.
Look at the photo, there is a row of C/B's behind the white panel in the bay.
When you get a chance add that air gauge on the compressor to help you know what it is doing.
Thanks, Barry. I looked at the circuit breakers but did not see one with a label related to the compressor. I will have another look the first chance I get and see if any need to be reset.
Ken