Foretravel Owners' Forum

Had 3 leaks fixed on the leveling system  located around the air tanks beside front axel  . Next day parked in a space that was low on passenger side , auto leveled ok , after a few hours the passenger side air bags front and rear would raise to the limit then later would blow off and drop to almost level then a while later repeat .
Now parked on an almost level lot , auto leveled then switched system off , within a few hours the drivers side had sunk ,switched auto level on and it inflated drivers side to level , switched off and again a few hours later same thing .
Having read posts by Michele and others I am thinking leaking valves rather than sensors

Jimmy,
The more you type the more it sounds like that you have trash in one or more solenoid valves on one of your 6 packs. By chance did they happen to use Teflon tape on some of the fittings when they repaired your leaks? If so that may be the culprit.

Pamela & Mike

I don't know if they did but it started straight after the repair and I read a post by Michele which identified the same issue . If I could work out which valves I would replace with new then refurbish originals as spares

Jimmy,

It's not a big job to remove & clean the solenoid valves. There is a good write up that I think Steve posted with pics. that can be of help. (I can't find the post at present but will post a link when I find it) Make sure you block up the frame so you don't get squished. Take pics. and label the lines to make sure that everything is returned to it's proper place. The removal/ cleaning / replacement can be done with a few hand tools.

Pamela & Mike

Here's a link to Steve's write-up: Raise solenoids, Ride Height Valve, and unusual leveling behavior due to debris (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15315.msg92751#msg92751)
Good Luck, Dave A

We are traveling / living in coach for next 2 months so pulling system apart in a CG presents a few issues , also have no blocks but could buy something ?
If I had a plan on the most luckily culprits it's possible

Jimmy, Quick solution for getting safety blocks for working under coach is to go to Lowe's or Home Depot, have them cut block's 11 inches long from either 4x4 or 4x6 lumber.
Gary B

Dave,
Thanks for the post that is the one that I was looking for but got called away.

Jimmy,
We helped a fellow member with the same problem and he lives full time in his rig. He went down to the local scrap yard with the measurements and they cut some 2" square tubing with a chop saw for him. One other thing that was not mentioned, to be clear after you block up the frame make sure that you drain all the air out of the system prior to starting to remove hoses and solenoids.

Pamela & Mike

Thanks for the advice , just rooted around and found what I believe to be a valve left by previous owner , will pull it apart tonight so I know what I am looking at

Just realized that even with the leveling system switched off the 12v air pump runs for a few minutes every 4-5 hours .
Does this point to any specific valves ?

I am a little puzzled that both front and rear airbags on the same side would deflate/raise at the same time (if I understand what you have written). There are two solenoid manifolds, front and rear.
AIR LEVEL SCHEMATIC attached.

But...my diagnostic skills have been called into question before (recently even!)

The aux compressor also keeps the slide bladders inflated, so it's not unusual for it to come on for a few minutes now and then.  Ours is about every 12- 36 hours so 4-5 is a little more frequent but not likely indicating anything significant (or related to the leveling problem). 

Michelle

Michele
I had considered the slide bladders , the rear was replaced in April , I will keep an eye on it .
Barry
I am assuming to block the chassis , I should raise the air suspension then place wooden blocks under chassis then dump air ??

Jimmy,
To check for a leaking raise solenoid:

Level the coach.
When you have full air pressure shun down the engine and the level system.
Measure the air bags on the side that goes up.
In about an hour remeasure the bags. If any measurement increases I would look at that raise solenoid.

Jimmy,

No need to dump air beyond setting the coach firmly on the blocks.

Auto leveled the coach and switched off before bed. , this morning both front and rear passenger side had inflated to max 11" , switched on system and auto leveled again , passenger side dumped air .

So two new right raise valves ?
Where are they on coach and anybody have a dummies guide to blocking up chassis and lowering suspension and changing valve 

Elliot
Looking at the schematic  , I see why you have doubts about both passenger side raise valves leaking at same time !
If it was a sensor the auto level would not show high side and level when asked . ?
The only thing I can say with certainty is that each night the four passenger air bags slowly inflate without the auxiliary 12v compressor , so the assumption is slow leakage ?

Just had chance to crawl under coach and really look at what last shop did to repair leak , two pipes plus a regulator ? With pressure gauge , can't really see Teflon tape but maybe some paste ?? See photo

This is between the forward air tanks

Jimmy,

That looks like the front regulator that keeps the front bags from inflating faster than the rear bags.  They have been known to leak (we have replaced ours a few times).  It's normally set to around 60 psi (similar to how yours is set in the photo).

Michelle

Thanks Michele , I was just trying to figure out the raise valves and how to get them out

Is this the part number

According to the HWH Parts manual (search the document for Foretravel - the 6 pack manifold is the first thing that comes up), the part is RAP1940, which includes both the solenoid and the valve.  I think the number in the photo is just the solenoid.

Here's a jpeg of the parts page for the manifold

Michele
Just spoke to Foretravel and they confirm the opinion of you and others on the forum , raise valves !
Foretravel $159. Hwh $109
Just  going to have another look at the manifold but am I correct in thinking 2 valves front and 2 rear , total 4 raise valves

I have reread Steve's write up ( several times) and I am still unsure how the valve is fixed to the manifold

That's not a criticism of Steve's write up which is concise and logical but a reflection of my ineptitude .
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice

Just confirmed its one valve per axel end

Jimmy,

The valves are threaded into the aluminum manifold block. You may have to use a pair of channel lock  pliers to be able grab the knurled part of the base.

Pamela & Mike

They just unscrew.  When you install the new ones, tighten gently by hand, maybe 1/4 turn beyond finger tight.  The seal is being made by the 2 o-rings so they don't need a "gorilla fist" tightening (and you will want to lightly grease the o-rings before installing; it protects against o-ring damage from the shear/drag when tightening).

If you're only having troubles on the one side, you can just start by replacing those 2 raise solenoids.  Of course you can buy 4 if you want and just keep a couple as spares since they work in any of the 6 positions on the manifold block.  I'm pretty sure we keep a spare or two in our bin.

Michelle

Today's problem is dropping pressure in front and rear air tanks whilst driving on flat road maintaining steady speed . Normally steady 120lb today it's drifting down to 100lb in both tanks and then pushing back up to 120 then repeat . Any advice to a beleaguered newbie would be appreciated as always

Could be related to your HWH problem but you might take a sprayer with a soap/water mix and hit all of the air bags. Cycling the compressor more and more frequently may be a sign a bag has a leak. Would start at the rear on the rear bags on the surface facing the tires. Kids bubble mix really blows huge bubbles.

A cheap, dollar tree spray bottle will do the trick but a hardware store plastic type Hudson sprayer with a wand will be top of the line for leaks. Can reach way under without getting under yourself.

Pierce

I had leaks near my 12 volt pump connections as well

Tim Fiedler

Air pressure should not be steady-- it should range between CUT-IN pressure and CUT-OUT pressure.  The air governor controls this.

But, if the frequency of cycling has increased, THAT is important and likely indicates a leak.  If large, you can probably hear it, if smaller, soapy solution should locate it.

Brett

Hoping to receive the new air valves tomorrow , have my spray bottle and eight  11" blocks of wood , just a little unsure as to the raising / lowering  suspension onto wooden blocks ?
Any step by step would be appreciated , really don't want to create more problems

My ride height valves (2 on the rear, one on the front) leak slightly most all the time you can't hear them but. Your air pressure will move up and down because the suspension uses air to keep the coach level on uneven roads. As you are finding out air leaks go on forever, make you nuts, and you will never find them all. Additionally it is very important to have clean dry air, you may want to make sure to have the air dryer serviced every 2 years or so, and drain your wet tank once a week there should be an easily accessable valve for it.

Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice and patience , got the two new valves in today , everything seemed to go as planned but will keep the spray bottle of bubbles handy and report back .
Once again thanks

Changing the raise valves seems to have worked ( thanks Michele ), I no longer have to negotiate the listing deck of the titanic when visiting the bathroom at night , or maybe that was the martinis