We have finally cut the cord!
Exhausting process moving all my stuff from the sticks and bricks to storage and to the coach. Since I no longer have the facilities to do a lot that I would like to do myself, we are taking the coach and to Colton truck terminal garage to have some preventative maintenance done.... I am wondering what this forum members would recommend as being essential, what would be nice, versus put it off until I get to someplace where I can do the work myself. For instance, I have the resonator in my Joey bed taking up space and it's tempting to just pay somebody to install it so that it will be done and no longer taking up space. However, obviously that is not an essential task. The no-brainers which I will have them do (or at least I think they are no-brainers) are change the engine oil (I am supplying the Rotella T6 and the fleet guard filter), change the transmission oil (using transyn which, according to the records is what was used last time service was done, change the differential oil, change the hydraulic pump oil, changing the coolant and all the associated filters. Also I'm going to have them change left front wheel seal which appears to be leaking and check the others. This is all a prelude to us making the 1600 mile trip to Nacogdoches for the ladies driving school and some possible upgrades... The above is all stuff that I had planned to do before leaving, but I simply ran out of time and possibly energy. I would appreciate some input about what other possible services to have done, assuming the place is capable of such (and I have it on good authority that it is (thanks Barry B!). I do plan to have them lube the chassis including the brakes with Clay based grease and check the brakes. Sidenote here, I did have some new LRH Michelin XZ3a+ put on the front at TCI in Lakeside California. They had no problem figuring out how to use the FMCA Michelin advantage program for the discount. I would like to gotten six new Michelin's, but the Toyos on the back had been replaced in 2011 and probably had 500 or less miles on them. All that TCI would have given me for them is $65 case credit as they had no used tire program there. If I can find such a place that will let me get some value for the rear tires, I may go ahead and have them replace the rears with the Michelin's as well... so far, my impressions are that the new Michelin front tires track better than the aged out Toyota's that were on the front before.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you come up with for service before our first big adventure!
Don
Don, do not forget to have the Bulkheads checked at the same time. :P :P :P >:D
John H ^.^d
Don't forget the air drier filter. I change mine every year now to reduce the risk of getting desiccant in the air system. Make sure they use the grease on the rubber gasket. I think it is supplied with the kit. Some places have a hard time changing the over pressure relief valve (see pic....new brass fitting on bottom of air drier) because it is difficult and risky if one does not have a special tool. Risky because it can be broken which causes a big problem. But I think it should be changed too at least every other year. The tech at Tenn RV had a wrench that he had fashioned into a tool that worked.
Sounds like you pretty much have it covered. However you may also have them check your belts and idlers, and think about a valve adjust on the engine, and don't forget the water pump belt on the generator.
Don,
Make sure they not only use the clay-based grease, but the correct PROCEDURE when greasing the brakes. If in doubt, print out the instructions.
Let me second this comment. The truck repair facilities I have used have no idea what I'm talking about re the clay based requirement. My recommendation is to mark the brake zerks, print out the instructions, highlight the clay based wording, make the front desk guy add it to his writeup and supply the grease and grease gun. The only good thing about this procedure is you'll probably only have to do it once or twice!
jor
Don't forget about the generator-oil, air and fuel filters, and coolant. Has the wheel hub oil been changed? Have the roof A/C's been cleaned?
Don,
Have you thought about the replacement of the fuel lines. I have a 2000 coach and I'm thinking it might be time to replace them, I know it is not an inexpensive pm item. Maybe some of the other folks could chime in on the subject. I know JD had to replace his not to long ago when the gen started sucking air. Just thought since you are full timing it might be something to look at.
See you at the ladies driving school,
You have a long list that when done should put your mind at ease for the next year as you hit the road. Being able to do all your own service is nice when you have a shop, the time and the energy. But out on the road, most RV parking places don't want you working on your rig.
My 98 had it's diesel lines changed last year when it refused to drive away from FOT. I think the bill was 2 coach bucks. The previous owner was the unlucky driver that month.
Get it done and hit the road east.
Stay with Toyos,
Or skip the grease altogether, only need grease once in brake pad life
Thanks for the suggestions! Unbelievable traffic on the I215 from Menifee through Riverside to Colton Truck Service terminal... It took 2 hours to go the 30 miles. We are here now getting the service done. I have added the generator service on the list. Everyone I have talked to seems to know about the clay based grease for the brakes... I hope they aren't humoring me. This is an extremely busy Truck service. Two or three fire engines waiting in line, a Prevost conversion, various American Coach, and a mix of trucks of all types. Most surprising though, is that there was 3 Foretravels here at the same time! A U280, a U300, and our U270. I met twig from the Forum and a gentleman by the name of Terry Jacbos (I think that is the last name). Terry is here for a generator problem. Twig had a brake issue which may have been resolved by adjusting one the slack adjusters (lucky for him, if that is the extent of it.. he got off cheap!). This may spill over into a second day. I think I may wait on the hydraulic pump service until I get to Meccadoches... No sign of leaking there. A couple of coolant hoses are being changed because of dry rot.
When you have the generator pulled out on the slides, make sure they check the rubber generator mounts by checking them underneath. This is where you can see the condition best. Also, check the exhaust pipe routing to make sure it's not hitting anywhere. With the generator out, it's easy to see it the flex pipe has been in contact with the coach.
Pierce
Probably stay with the Toyo's on the rear until they age out or I lose one to a road hazard... This service appoint would probably have paid for 4 new Michelins before it is done. But I want the LRH on the Steer tires for sure. Besides the fronts have already been done...
Don
Another thing to think about are the hydraulic fan motors.... if you have them. They are starting to leak on 2002 models. I've been told if they just seep oil, they are OK, but need attention when they start to drip.
George
They have CAT EC-1 ELC which I believe uses OAT chemistry. This should be fine in our 99' ISC, no?
Don, I think Barrys tech page on coolant additives will let you know.
BTW, your coach looks good not parked next to your house!
Richare B.
You will like having the resonator....whenever it is installed.
Keep the Toyo's.
Yes, ELC is an OAT-based coolant. Use the proper cooling system flush (PN on ELC container), put it in 50/50 with distilled water and forget it for 6 years. No SCA to add or test. If you have a coolant filter, make sure to use a "blank" which contains no SCA.
Brett
So this mornings festivities include fussing with the gen and hopefully reviving its functionality and replacing the left front wheel seal. Question. The mechanic mentioned that that would take about three hours with disc brakes. Is that a reasonable labor quote for this operation?
Don
Don, Three hours on seal is probably high time. Hub and caliper have to be taken off but a GOOD EXPERIERIENCED tech with the right tools can probably do it quicker. Now you got me started on book time versus real time. Book time is always high, they must time the slowest most inept tech when they do these time studies.
End of rant.
Gary B
Experienced tech can normally do any job in 1/2 to 2/3rd's the book hours.
Separate from the tine to move the coach, go to parts and get the seal.....
Bob
So how do places like MOT and FOT charge? By the hour (i.e., the actual time it took to accomplish the task) or some standard time? The reason I ask is that I have always thought that asking questions of the tech was on my time, i.e., I was being charged actual time which included the time to answer questions.
I changed my coolant and talked to Cummins. They said ANY coolant that has "meets Cummins 14603 specifications" printed on the jug is satisfactory. If it don't say it, I wouldn't use it.
Yes, Caterpillar ELC meets the specs, as does Fleetguard ES Complet OAT.
FT uses actual time. I know. I keep a log.
Tennessee RV uses "book" rates or worse, not sure but think they wrote the "book"
I find the shop rates for both FOT and MOT reasonable due to being provided an individual that knows his job, not guessing or goofing off. Never have looked for a bargin, just honest work, both seem to provide correctly. Meaning I have not felt that I have been abused. Have atg other shops.
My only issue with FOT, they rarely ever can work me into their schedule in less than 4-6 weeks out, MOT & Xtreme always make room for me to fit my schedule, Simple choice.
In general, the MOT, FOT & Xtreme are the only shops I feel comfy in.
The shop in I-10 Bay Town east of Houston, also does good for what they do.
It may be too late (we were traveling and off-line yesterday) but:
I would wait for the Ladies Driving School and have FOT do the brakes.
Thanks Harvey, but the tech did adjust the slack adjusters after changing the wheel seal. He did use clay based grease. I am going to have FOT do a front end alignment so I will have them check the brakes then. The pads were about 90% and the one next to the leaking seal had some oil on the inner pad, but cleaned up nicely with some brake cleaner.
Don