My 1994 GV300 with a Detroit 6V92 had an Alternator failure. :'( I found a Good local shop that was able to rebuild / renew my unit with new parts for a fraction of the cost of a new one. They installed a New Leece Neville - 102200 voltage regulator in place of the original. This new regulator only has the large neg. / large pos. /and one small terminal with a jumper wire attached from the regulator back down to the first post to the left on the alternator. My old regulator had an additional small post to the right of the jumper-ed post, to which a Red wire from the remote engine start panel was attached. This Red wire had constant 12 volt supply. The re-builder said I could just tape off this wire as it would no longer be needed in the system. ? I do not believe this is true. I have reviewed other post in this Forum and found some options to re-wire this regulator , but I really don't want to do that if it is not necessary. Also would any of this system affect my fuel supply shut off valve? For the first time in the history of my coach the engine will not start, Cranks over but no fuel in the fuel filter. ??? See attached picture of old set up.
Gerry,
The old regulator had a neg post, pos post, ignition post and a battery voltage post.
The new regular has a neg post, pos post and a ignition post. The post post needs to see battery voltage. The pos post is connected to the center of the battery isolator and has no voltage when the engine is off. So a jumper providing battery voltage to the pos post is the solution to getting proper operation from a three post regulator.
Hope this helps you.
So, if I hook the Red wire from the remote start panel to the large positive (out) post will this solve my problem?
Gerry,
I stand corrected. My alternator guy just told me that the three post regulator is wired in the regulator to turn on when it sees ignition voltage.
So you should be good to go with no jumper needed.
No. The wire has to go to the "sense" connection on the alternator. Google "hehr alternator" and find the .pdf which has drawings of most of the Hehr alternators. If you know which alternator you have (series 24, series 25, etc.) then use that to determine which connector will get the sense voltage. If you do not know what series you have then just go through all of them until one of them looks familiar.
The "sense" connection is also known as the "field" connection.
Craig
If you have a Hehr, do NOT use a jumper. Google the .pdf (there are a couple) and use those to determine which alternator you have and which post to connect the sense wire to.
Craig
Craig,
First question out of my alternator guy was "Does he have a Leece/Neville"? That is indeed the brand Gerry stated in his post.
I suspect that he has the wrong alternator; or at least the wrong type of voltage regulator. His previous alternator was wired to "sense" battery voltage through a wire from the isolator and bypassing the diodes (avoiding the diode voltage drop of .6vdc which would make the regulator overcharge the batteries).
"Alternator guys" have most of their experience with big trucks and cars which do not have isolators. Those are all wired up with jumpers. Even the 4-post alternators commonly come with a jumper between the field connection and the alternator output connection. This jumper should be removed and the sense wire connected to it instead.
I think I would take that alternator back and ask them for a 4-wire Hehr or Leece Neville alternator of appropriate size. Or at least make absolutely sure that this was going to work right.
Craig
Even if replacing the alternator with same brand, same appearance, it pays to compare the model number. As Craig says, the non-isolator truck models have different part numbers and specs. A quick call to the manufacturer's tech department can save potential problems and associated costs for mounting the incorrect model. On the other hand, it may be as simple as an voltage regulator adjustment.
Pierce
If I read the post correctly " They replaced the REGULATOR with a LEECE NEVILLE " If so this is a different ball park. I would return to the shop if after reviewing the the HEHR Site you still are not sure what the shop did.
Gary B
Update ! ^.^d I returned to the shop with my Hehr alternator that had a new Leech Neville Regulator installed. I also took along a conversion diagram that I found in "Beam Alarm Site" for converting a three (3) pole regulator to a four (4) pole regulator. The shop did the modification at no charge, I installed the old re-built alternator, with the New Leech Neville Regulator, that had been modified to allow for a voltage sensing wire (Red) from my remote start panel (an existing wire) . The system now works better than it ever did. Charging at 14.1 volts when at idle, the alternator had never produced more the 13 volts, and at idle would drop below 12 volts... I am a Happy Camper ;D ;D ;D Here is the link; Modifying 3 wire Alternator to a Foretravel 4 wire (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/modifying_3_wire_alternator_to_a_foretravel_4_wire.html)
I will post a picture in AM of the new set-up
Thanks to everyone!
Gerry,
Was it the alternator that was stopping your engine from starting?
Larry
Great story on alternators but did you get the engine to start?? Have a great day ---- Fritz
Oh yeah, I really don't know what happened, however I had just had my coach completely service, having all filters changed, the air dryer serviced, as well as the water separator serviced. I drove the coach from the service facility about 10 to 12 miles back to where I had been keeping it and shut it down. When I went to re-start a few days later it would not start. I could find no relationship between the alternator being bad and the coach not starting, so I started checking my fuel supply system. When I pulled the bleeder plug from the primary filter I could see that there was no fuel in it. So I filled it with diesel and the engine fired right off. There must have been a air lock in the water separator that allowed me to drive the coach back from the service facility but when I shut it down it worked its way through the system allowing the filter to go dry. I have not started the coach for a few days now so I will see if it starts after sitting for a while. If it does I'm O.K., if it doesn't I'll be looking for a loose filter or bad fuel line. I have never had it lose its prime before this last service!