Please find attached my actual weights for my 2000 40' Single Slide U-320 taken at GV. This is the print out they mail you from the foundation - I got the initial results handwritten at the weighing, this is the more formal results, thought some might find it interesting.
Based on this, I need 120 LBS in front and 100 LBS in rear BTW.... per Michelin load tables....
Full Propane, 66% full Diesel, 50% full Water, 0% Black, 0% Grey. Every cupboard, closet, and bay full to the gills....
Nice balance with decent load capacity remaining.
Enjoy
Oh, I didn't have toad weighed, In know that my 2003 Honda Element is 2,995 Lbs...... :-)
since I don't need brakes in WI if towed vehicle is 3000 lbs. or less.
Tim,
As I am sure you are aware, the legal limit w/o toad brakes varies by state, and just like speed limits, etc you are subject to the laws of the state you are driving in, not your state of origin.
Yes, there is reciprocity for driver's licenses, but not for operation of the vehicle.
Well actually I need aux breaks per WI regs too. Toad weighs 3200. What, you mean retarder is not an aux brake?
Choosing to run this way, may come back to bite me, but for now "it's not a problem until its a problem"
I am sure many will think that is flawed thinking, but not going to put Air Force or similar in toad. My decision and I comfortable with it.
The toad brake thing is always a potential problem and since one doesn't know all of the state rules the only way you stay legal is to have one. I don't have one and am on the fence about the whole issue. Braking is not a problem for us pulling an 09 Taurus 4 dr sedan. I believe that it is required if you plan a trip into Canada, but I am not, so delete that concern. Has anyone been stopped and/or inspected to see if a braking system is in the toad?? Thanks and have a great day ---- Fritz
I was always concerned as to litigation following an accident. Hence my Brake Buddy sits on the floor in the toad. Sometimes I remember to hook it up...sometimes I plan on determining that the jolt of an accident must have dislodged it...
Tim, you are right it's not a problem till it's a problem. I don't know of anyone that has actually been fined for not having one. I can tell you I know when I forget to plug in the air line for the M&G on the jeep especally in stop and go city traffic but it's fairly heavy(about 4500 lbs).
I have weighed our coach four times at truck scales. I weigh with people, dog, supplies, water, and fuel in place for travel. I use the values to find appropriate tire pressures and verify that we are within safe limits. If a good opportunity for the RVSEF measurement comes up, we'll get that evaluation also.
I don't think that the Subaru makes any significant difference in the performance of our coach --- until I drive without towing it. I can feel that the coach accelerates more quickly and stops in less distance without the relatively small car on the back. I can mitigate the stopping distance issue by using the M&G brake system on the Subaru.
We bought the Subaru from Kent & Peggy Speers. They used to tow the Subaru behind their U300. They put the M&G system on it. They are convinced that the extra braking effectiveness saved them from running over a woman in a small car who drove into their path at the wrong time.
I plan to use a braking system on the vehicle I tow behind my coach.
The coach weights are really interesting. Here's a comparison:
95 300 40' (present coach): 28,910
99 320 36' (other one): 29,940
00 320 40' (Tim's with slide): 33,175
The 95 and 99 were loaded the same except the 95 had 145 gallons of fuel while the 99 had 195. Add those 400# to the 95 and you end up with only a 600# difference. Among these three the engines, transmission and generator are about the same. Anyhow, it's interesting to see how the weights vary from year to year. When you start trying to figure it out, AHot, hose reels, double Joeys, whatever you're head explodes.
jor
I will add mine later today. I got it in the Maine the other day. He wanted 120 psi on the front too with the margin for safety. I have been running 110.
I know alot of coaches are borderline as they roll out. I had mine weighted at the GV also and was really surprised. While I dont have the numbers with me ( I will post later ) the coach was very balanced left to right. I had full fuel 3/4 water. 1/2 propane, and could still add around 5500 lbs to coach. My last SOB was over grossed with 2 passengers and full fuel and 1/2 tank water on the front axle.
BTW, have Aquahot, double reels, double Joey's and Residential Refrigerator, course the resonator dropped a hundred pounds of weight when it went on.
Posted this elsewhere on the Forum on October 18. Seems more appropriate here.
"We had our coach weighed using the Escapee's Smart Weight setup in Livingston, TX. Our FT is a 2003 U295 36'. The GVWR is 34880. The total came out to be 32880, so we are 2400 lbs under the max. The difference from side to side was relatively small: front 280 lbs (PS heaviest); back 100lbs (PS heaviest). We had our usual complement of "stuff" and fluids (60% water, <10% gray, <5% black). The propane was at 40% which is a bit low for us, but at only about 4 lbs for gallon, not a big deal. Fuel was at 95%. The crew running the scale seemed very competent and it was good to see we were good as to tire pressures for our Michelin XZA3 tires (front, LRH 105lbs; back LRG 95 lbs).
Key words: Smart Weight, coach weight"
I was amazed with the weight jump from the 93, U225, to the 98 U295, both 36'.
Same stuff, unloaded, out of one, into the other. Each, full fuel, full fresh water, full propane, empty black and grey. Two of us with the dog.
U225, 22,400#, but carried 50 less gallons of fuel (350#), and 14 gallons less water (112#).
U295, 28,300#
Still almost 5,000# more pounds.
Tim: I must be using the wrong Michelin tables. My tables show, using the greatest weight per axle, the front axle would need air for #13050 (6525 x 2) which should be #110 of air pressure (#13,360) giving a leeway of # 310. # 115 would give #13,840. My table shows #120 of air for #14,320. Do we need that much extra leeway for safety? When I had my 2002, 3602 320 front end alignment at FOT, they wanted much less air then I thought was safe, but that's why I'm asking this question Norm
Norm,
I was at 110 on the fronts, the RVSEF guys looked up the michelins and with argins said 120. Actually I have been at 110 since the beginning.
But I like 120 better, will be going to that..........
I have notice a max. pressure stamped on the wheels as 120#.
I earlier posted a link from Alcoa with all the specs for their wheels, sizes, pressures, finish, etc. All Alcoa pressures are "cold" just like tire pressures and should have a large safety factor. Alcoa wheels are forged and won't fail like a cast wheel might but the max recommended pressure may be to guarantee the tire won't try and climb the wheel flange in case of a high shock load. Good question for Alcoa.
Pierce
Be sure to use the correct load range listing. G and H have different tables.
When we had ours weighed by RVSEF last year, their comments were 5 to 10 psi extra for safety margin.
I have H range tires, Michelin wants plus 5-10 for safety margin as Michelle points out.
Plus I sold a LOT of these things, More air always seemed a better outcome - (up to a point....)
Based on my weight and speed of travel I carry 85-90 lbs per tire. Have been doing that for several years. We bought the coach in '05 with "new" tires although the sidewall date was 4 years old. We replaced them in '11. They were Michelins and we put Continentals on since that was what was available. Have a nice smooth ride with no troubles. I can't imagine the ride with 110 lbs per tire.
Larry, I also have Continental LRH tires and run 110 PSI in all of them, they are wearing even and I have had no problems with them. I have heard that at 110 they will ride hard but I can't tell it and I have run them both ways. My opinion is that Michelins are no better than any other tire but they do a sales job on everyone.
Gary B
I've been satisfied running our Michelin tires at the pressures recommended in the Michelin charts. I figured they have provided values for an appropriate balance of safety (traction, handling, blowout resistance, etc.) and comfort (ride and handling). If I vary from recommended pressures, it will be to run higher pressures.
This is a question that has worried me for a long time, so today I called Michelin customer support (1888 622 2306) and asked them how much extra pressure, over inflation tables, we should carry. Response was-- "weigh all corners at ambient temps , then use the weight of the heaviest end of the axle as your base weight. An additional #5 can be used when weight is between chart recommendations or for insurance. More than that will cause excess wear on the center of the tread and is unnecessary". Norm
That is EXACTLY what every Michelin expert has said at every presentation I have attended.
What puzzles me about the Michelin tire pressure tables is the increase that Michelin has made for LRG and RV tires over the last five years.
Five years ago Michelin tables for LRG or LRH for RV tires or truck tires was the same (based on tire size).
Today, the Michelin tables indicate lower pressure for LRH, then for LRG. Also, the LRG Truck tire tables have not changed, however the LRG and LRH tables for RV tires shows an increase.
Have the tires changed or has Michelin increased pressures because many RV owners do not maintain the proper pressure in their tires, resulting in more blow ours?
I have a friend who never checked the pressure in his motorhome tires and told me to not bother when I offered to do it. He did not have the correct pressure gauge and yes, he did have a blowout.
I have been using spin on pressure gauges for years and check my tires at every stop.
This procedure has saved me from road side problems twice.
@Wyatt OK you got me. What's a spin on pressure gauge?
see ya
ken
i think he is talking about a screw on tire pressure gauge that is left on each tire. Called Spira Gage and made in Portland, Oregon.
Tire Monitor Truck RV Motor Home Gauge Set of 10 Gauges for Entire Vehicle | (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIRE-MONITOR-TRUCK-RV-MOTOR-HOME-GAUGE-SET-OF-10-GAUGES-FOR-ENTIRE-VEHICLE/390679154372?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D2432730353558262655%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D221295189516%26)
I've seen them screw straight on, or at a 90 degree like below.
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ratsport.com%2FFiles%2F76817%2FImg%2F22%2FDSC04485.JPG&hash=b8aaf5852b203d3a1d2d6cd3e943ff2f" rel="cached" data-hash="b8aaf5852b203d3a1d2d6cd3e943ff2f" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://www.ratsport.com/Files/76817/Img/22/DSC04485.JPG)
It replaces the valve cap. It is a 1.5 inch analogue pressure gauge which can be read at a glance. Wyatt
Sounds like the spin on gauge stays on the valve. Correct?
best, paul
Wyatt
Are these available? Looks like they would work with my ribber extensions for the inside dual..