I replaced the overhead Thin-Lite Fluorescents with these LEDs:
Wholesale Led Module - Buy Free Shipping 5050 SMD White LED Module Light Lamp, (http://www.dhgate.com/product/5050-smd-white-led-module-light-lamp-dc12v/143186358.html#s1-1-1|1024697738)
The lights are a strip of 20 blocks of 3 led's wired about 3 inches apart with pressure sensitive tape on the back.
Replacement was straightforward I cut the 12 volt wire and removed the complete Thin-Lite fixture. stuck the new LED's to the top of the light box, attached the 12 volt leads and I was done... took me about a hour and the whole coach was done..
My cost was $42.00 for a package of 5, enough to do all 5 lights in the coach. The lights are brighter then the florescent's, the color is not what I would call a warm white, more white then yellow. That works for me as when I am using the overhead lights I am needing light for my old eyes to see.
I've had them in for about 4 months now and have not had any issues.
That's so easy it's almost cheating....Nice.
Very nice, Ted.
Roger
I've been replacing the florescent lights, and when I got to the ceiling ones it looks like they are 120vac, not 12vdc like the others. Anyone know for sure?
12v on ours. Ez to check, with no shore and inverter off, if they come on...
Pierce
I recently replaced all my fixtures.
12v.
The 'little' rocker switches like your water pump, and water heater controls, are 12V. My '90 GV has all lights 12v.
110/120V switches are normal household type switches, of which, the only one I have is for the engine block heater.
Hope it helps.
I completely gutted and the wiring and ballast from the Thin-Lite fixtures, left the fixtures in place, and mounted the LEDs to the fixtures. Leaving them in place gives a nice white reflective surface for the LED to reflect off of.
I've adde LEDs to 7 of our fluorescents so far. I installed strip LEDs from China and put in a switch to allow switching back to fluorescents for brighter light when needed.
I was at the Atlanta Good Sam/Camping World rally and purchased some LED replacements for my under cabnet lite fixtures. I got 6 for 75.00. I like the upgrade. I am happy about that, but I have noticed that when dry camping/no genset/over the air antenna that my flat screen tv loses signal or pixalates a lot when I use the new LEDs. If shore line connected, no problem. Where is the interference coming from? What do I do about it?
Pat,
WE have a "sound problem" when I turn the over-the-sink LEDs on while the TV is on. Everything is LEDs but those two are the only ones that give us trouble. It seems to happen more on inverter than shore power.
Here is a good read on EMI interference: Radio interference from LED lighting | EMC and Regulatory Compliance (http://www.emcrules.com/2011/07/radio-interference-from-led-lighting.html)
Also, true sine wave inverters are less prone to radio/TV interference. Lots of $$ to invest unless you use a laser printer or want your coffee heated quickly in the microwave.
Pierce
If an LED is directly powered from a clean 12vdc source it should emit no EMI. If they use an internal power supply then *that* can emit serious EMI depending upon the circuit. If a 12vdc LED is creating EMI then there must be some alternating current (AC) component in its power supply.
One way to stop (or at least reduce) EMI is to use ferrite beads on the connecting wires. These beads slip over the wires and "damp" the RF. They work best if the wire is run through once and then doubled through again.
Is anyone having EMI problems with the LED strips they're using to replace flourescent bulbs?
There are "zero EMI" LEDs on the market. Dr. LED (http://www.drled.com (http://www.drled.com)) claims zero radio interference from their LED lights. Their products seem to be aimed more towards the marine industry with dome lights, running lights, bi-color chart lights, etc. but there might be more than I know about. Not as cheap as the devices from China.
Available from marine stores like West Marine, Fisheries Supply, etc.
In the past, as a long-time amateur radio operator, I've had serious EMI problems with flourescent lights; especially on our cruising sailboat where the power available was (very) limited. I simply kept a few incandescent light fixtures which I used when I needed to get onto the radio.
Craig
Hi Ted, in retrospect, would you buy the Warm White instead?
Thanx
As many of you know I am total LED ,in and out, and have zero interference with any of them, strips in ceiling lights or replacements for halogen ones.!!!
John H
@DaveLarose I started changing out my florescents with warm white but by accident bought some plain white. Turns out we like the white much better. The warm white has a slight yellow cast that we don't like much. Although we didn't know that until we did a side by side comparison! I've changed out all the florescents to led and going back now and changing out the warm white to white.
When you buy leds it's advisable to buy them all at the same time and from the same vendor. Otherwise you can end up with slight variations in color as they might be from different manufacturers. I ran 2 strips for each light and added a switch to turn one strip off to dim them a little if I need to.
see ya
ken
John & Ken,
Where did you all purchased your led bulbs and strips for inside and outside; I'd like to change them all. Also the outside red and yellow ones. DW asked that i replace the yellow metal light fixtures from bedroom & bathroom.
I saw some instructions on youtube for the florescent to led replacement, i understood that we basically disconnect the florescent ballast correct?
Thank you,
Al
I see ( http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Lights-sf-Clearance_Lights.aspx (http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Lights-sf-Clearance_Lights.aspx) ) has some. I just need to figure out what size to order.
@propman I followed Pierce Stewart's advice in this thread. (thanks again Pierce for blazing this trail and the excellent write up)
LED Interior Lights Conversion (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13741.msg77279#msg77279)
As mentioned above I did use 2 strips of leds instead of one and recommend white instead of warm white. Of course you will need to make that decision for yourself. :)
The led strips are little cheaper now on ebay. IIRC I paid $11 a roll 6 months ago. It does take about 3 weeks for them to show up from China. Humm just found this guy from CA so shipping should be much quicker. Super Bright 600 LED 3528 SMD White 5M 500CM LED Strip Light New Design Car Auto (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-600-LED-3528-SMD-White-5M-500CM-Led-Strip-Light-New-Design-Car-Auto-/360751492379?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item53fe76ed1b) $9.99 with free shipping.
The wires are are little painful to solder on but after you do a few it's not so bad. I do recommend a strong pair of reading glasses so you can see what your doing while soldering. At least I need them your eyes may be better than mine.
I'm very happy with the conversion and have not had any problems with any of the leds.
I haven't changed out my exterior lights and haven't found a solution for the bathroom fixtures yet. Maybe someone else can chime in with one.
Here is a link to a thread where I posted an image of one of my conversions.
LED tutorial (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=17984.msg121898#msg121898)
EDITED: to correct grammer (original was posted at 4:30am I couldn't sleep or think obviously)
see ya
ken
Ken,
After that, I'm all puffed up and my top hat won't fit! ;D Thanks for the pat on the back. You did a good job on the hydraulic pump post. The light conversions are fun to do as well as save juice. I just finished our closets and main cargo bin. I used the larger 5050s in a silicone casing for protection but will post the photos in a few days. I think it was Kent that used the white whites on the ceiling fixtures. I used the warm LEDs on the side interiors, reading lights but not entirely happy with the ceiling. Think Kent was right as the warm on the side and reading gives a cozy feel but the higher Kelvin LEDs seem to work better overhead. Plus I had a roll that went from warm to warmer about half way through and gave a very slight yellow cast to everything.
Nice, neat job on the link light fixture. Once the Euro connector is mounted, you can really feed into the strips anywhere there is a tiny copper dot. The strong glasses are mandatory aren't they?
Pierce
Ken/ & Pierce Thank you.
I remember reading "Pierce" way :) of LED upgrade a while back now. I may just make this a Christmas time project.
I changed out both the lights in the bathroom (the vertical set of three on each side) and the ones over the vanity in the bedroom (in the U225 and in many of the 90s GVs) with over-the-counter LEDs I bought at an auto parts store that carried LEDs. I took one of the lights out and just carried it in and found one that matched. They weren't cheap but this was almost 2 years ago. I also replaced the lamps in the reading lights above the bed (on each side with the shades, with two lights in each one) by the same method.
Ditto for tail lights.
I haven't changed out the flourescent lights yet... but will probably use Pierce's method.
Craig
Pick up a pair of these at your next stop at Harbor Freight. I use these everywhere.
Magnifier Head Strap With Lights (http://www.harborfreight.com/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html)
Rick
David, in case no one directly answered your question, the thin-lite fluorescent ceiling lamps in my coach are 120 vac, but the fixture itself is powered by 12 vdc. The ballast unit in the fixture converts the 12 vdc to 120 vac to power the lamps. I believe most if not all the coaches are that way. You should be able to check it with a voltmeter after removing the lamps and metal cover between the lamps to expose the ballast.
Al, sorry did not see your question.
I bought rolls (15') long from the same place Pierce did on Amazon or Ebay. I made my own bathroom fixtures to replace the Las Vegas ones. I did post pics a while back on them. The Thinlite cieling ones I took down and took all ballast and fixture out and put 2 strips of the waterproof LEDs in place and wired direct as Pierce did. Outside lights are all new LEDs fixtures incl the rear light units.
John H
Thank you.
Thanks for the tip, Jerry. We're finally back home so I can get back to working on the coach. Later this week I'll put up some of our stories on the "Around the Fire Ring" part.
I just bought a 2 strip led set from Lowes. Gutted the flurecent parts out and peel and stick the leds. Cut the lead that plugs into the led strip off the supplied 110v to 12v power supple and wired into coach wires. 20 min complete. Works great maybe the color is slightly on the green tint but I'm good. 30 bucks.
Now I'm going to install them in my basement so I can quit knocking the plastic covers off the flurecent ones. Also add some in the middle to see at night.
Alan, why not make your own strips up from coils of it? A lot cheaper. You can buy the 15' rolls for $17-25 a roll on Ebay or Amazon as many of us have and do it for a 1/4 of the one you have. No big effort involved.
John H
I'm going to do that but I needed to fix the front light right away. We sold the big house way sooner then they said it would take. So now
We are 6 weeks full timing. AND LOVE IT!
Still learning a lot only 4 months owning coach. She needs some TLC but we love her. Wish we had 1 slide but it's fine right now. Never knew how much these foretravels have over other breeds.
I haven't done it but I wonder if one could get rid of the old fixtures and insert the LED strips into plastic tubes and then use some kind of clamps to hold them to the ceiling of the basement. Maybe cable clamps or mirror clamps?
I think a 1/2" square tube might work assuming the LED strips are 10mm wide (.39"). With a 1/16" wall, I calculate the inner diagonal to be .53" (not counting radius) so the strip would rest at an angle pointing towards the center of the basement floor.
Here's a good photo of the tubes: 6 Square Acrylic Tube 500 OD 1 16" Wall 3ft Long Clear Extruded | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Square-Acrylic-Tube-500-OD-1-16-Wall-3ft-Long-Clear-Extruded-/150994802951?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2327fdd907)
Here's another (surprisingly cheaper) source: McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#8516k33/=peq5nf) But I suppose shipping will cost more being 6' long.
See the discussion of LED strip lights in ...
Fluorescent light ballast? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19742.msg140587#msg140587)
Roger
Has anyone ordered LED lights from the sources Ted mentioned (DHGate)? Be careful. I ordered a set on 10/24. Seller claimed they were shipped on 10/27. 14-21 days for delivery. The tracking number was invalid. Several inquiries later the seller claimed they were shipped on 10/31. The tracking number for that shipment was also invalid. Now they claim it was shipped by Swedish airmail (really!). No tracking number. No package after more than 4 weeks. I have sent more than 10 messages to the seller and to DHGate with no useful response. Called the credit card company and disputed the charge as fraud. I got a refund. If the package ever shows up i will refuse it or just leave it in the front yard for them to come from China and get it.
It is really too bad that this outfit is so far from being customer oriented. I have ordered stuff from AliBaba in China with no problems ever.
Roger
Hi, for whatever it is worth, and this might almost make a handy Topic:
I ordered LED's : 100Pcs DC12V SMD5050 white 3 LEDs module waterproof
From Seller: ukseasy2013
and they arrived from China in 13 days. Packaged decently, and as stated in their auction. I am happy with them.
I also ordered;
LED modules for dome lights and such (this was just a sample to see if I like them): Light Panel 48 SMD LED+T10+38mm Dome Festoon Bulb Base
Seller: bijouterie-de-amelie
They arrived in just under 3 weeks. They were as promised, and look quite versatile.
Also;
From invotech: 2CH 24keys controller 2x5M 10m 5050 RGB LED Strips 600led Waterproof 60leds/m
They came in 8 days.
There are a zillion Sellers, so perhaps it is handy to mention the good ones...
Best
Dave
So, did a sample Thin-Lite to LED conversion today; here are my thoughts/questions;
I simply pulled the existing components out, and installed 4 3LED (5050's) in each end where the tubes were. I placed the LED's side by side, 2 inline. I thought that single rows would be too dim.
I find that the LED being the 'white' choice is 'too' white, and the 5050 shines way too intensely through the plastic diffuser, you can easily see each individual diode. I am now going to order some 'warm' white, and try that. I also might order some theatrical gel and try to opaque the diffuser some more.
Has any one found this? My Wife thought they look too much like opening a modern fridge, and I agree.
Thanks...
I just replaced some thin lights with white leds and we found them to be too harsh for use in the areas where we sit and read. However, in areas where you want bright light, such as the kitchen or bath or inside cabinets, the white lights are, in my opinion, a better choice.
I think of the warm white as being mellow.
Jim
P.S.
I used 6 rows of 3528 leds (120 leds/meter) in each thinlite. This seems about the same brightness as 2 fluoresecent. I've ordered some 5050's that were on sale. A singe 5050 contains three 3528 leds but the sale ones only contain 60 leds/m. Still this makes them 1.5 times as bright as the 3528 strips for the same price.
I decided to play a little with LED lighting and just got nice cable ends to avoid soldering. It took exactly one week to get them. Each of the 10 cables can be used as jumpers between strips, or you can cut them in the middle and use only one to power a strip. Certainly worth the $3.95 for stress reduction soldering the little buggars. 10pcs 8mm Width Connector for Single Color 3528 LED Strip Light No Need Solderig (http://www.ebay.com/itm/180918674630)
I also bought 12V 5M 300Leds 3528 SMD High Bright Cool White Flexible Strips Lights Waterproof (http://www.ebay.com/itm/360689631645) to try some waterproofed strips for the bays. I ordered these on Wednesday, 11/27 and received them today, 12/4, from China. That is the fastest I have ever seen from China!
My first purchase from these folks were non-waterproof to see what they were like with minimal investment. I bought 2 of the 5 meter non-waterproof rolls, one warm and one cold. Warm white for the interior: 5M Bright Warm White 3528 SMD LED Strip Lights 300 LEDs Strip Non Waterproof | (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181026666494) and cool white that I originally mounted inside a 5/16 ID x 7/16 OD plastic hose in 2 bays are Special OFFER Super Bright White 5M 300Leds 3528 Flexible Lighting Strips 12V | (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400493231736) . A fun project, made a lot simpler with the solderless plugs, and still awfully inexpensive!
In the bays, I used plastic u-clips to hold a 3 ft light section on the main bay, driver's side. I took the bulb out of the rear of the two round lights, and I just pushed solid wires into the bulb slots. (I used Garage door sensor wiring from my last opener). Thus the switch of the rear round light controls it. I did feed the wire inside the black loom. I left the front incandescent alone, but it is really unnecessary. I managed to get a 5 foot section on the passenger main bay, and again, I used the rear round fixture to feed and switch the light. Here are a few pics. The tubing doesn't really show unless you look up at it.
Don't forget the entry light. I replaced the amber lens with a white one and used two rows of LEDs. Amber is good living where bugs are but I like the 6500K white with a clear lens. Made a huge difference.
Pierce
Earlier in the month, I posted that I was purchasing some 5050 LED's to use inside the Thinlite's. I had used 3528 LED's with no problem, so I thought the 5050's would be just as easy. Not so, as it turns out.
The 5050's generate a LOT more heat at each individual "button" (there are 3 LED's inside each 5050 button as opposed to 1 in the 3528). As a result, the glue on the supplied double stick tape fails after the light has been on for a while.
Has anyone else had this problem, and what have you done to prevent it?
I think buying the waterproof LED's that have no installed double stick tape would be a better way to go. You could then use an adhesive designed for high temperatures.
I'm trying various solutions as I have 7 rolls of the 5050's. The first attempt will be to remove the installed glue with acetone or some other dangerous solvent (hmmm... I feel a "Yes dear, I was stupid" moment coming).
Don't quite know what to use as a high temp adhesive. Maybe 3M car emblem tape, or some other 3M VHB tape.
Any suggestions?
Jim,
There is a big difference between strips with a clear silicone covering and those with the strips inside a protective silicone/vinyl sleeve. The type with molded on covering still have the double sided adhesive backing. The others are just slid inside the cover and don't have any backing at all. I liked the full cover as they would seem to take a lot more abuse and installed them where they were likely to get hit a lot.
I did have some start to peel off at the ends on our Thinlites where there was some stress because of the wires I soldered on. I cleaned the aluminum and then used Ajax on them but still got some separation. I used super glue to finally fasten them down in a couple of problem spots and have not had a problem since. GE Silicone II would probably do the trick also but has a much longer cure time.
Pierce
Pierce,
Thanks for the heads-up on the differences among the waterproof LEDs.
Jim
The strips that I installed in the porch lite on mine would not stick. I used small strips of aluminum tape ( Fason Tape ) like the HVAC folks use, to secure the strips to the metal in the lite. I screwed up when I used five strips, I can read at nite 30 feet away from coach, three would have been plenty.
Gary B
Shoe glue may work also. Don't have to glue the whole strip, just a few dabs should hold them in place.
I got some 5050's also that came in a waterproof sleeve. They came with clamps made of a soft material like the sleeve. I can't use them on the Thin-lite fixture, so I thought I'd try the shoe glue. I'll use the clamps elsewhere.
White plastic Romex hold downs work well with the stock nails or screws on the enclosed waterproof strips. You can also cut off one leg with a single sided blade when you need the room.
Pierce
I bought 2 rolls of the strips that Brad and Christine's post pointed to and put one row in each of the thinlite housings above the pax side galley cabinets. I think 2 rows will be better. So next I soldered up 4 rows to go in the entry light. Aaaand they don't work. I don't get it, if I plug a separate 12v source right into my leads, all 4 strips light up, and my voltmeter shows 13.5v at the wires coming out of the coach, but apparently *those* volts just aren't high quality enough for these snooty leds... kinda wishing I had an amp meter. And thinking that the load represented here should not care. I guess tomorrow I'll plug a known good 12v lamp into the porch light wires and see what happens.
Shoe Goo will hold anything! I got tired of the "baby moons" on the front wheels coming off on rough roads so I shoe goo'd them on. Had to pry them off to check the axil oil level! :P
As Michelle pointed out in a post a while back, LED's are simply diodes meaning they are current devices, not voltage devices. As long as the current is above the minimum needed to operate and below the maximum that causes damage, the LED does not care what voltage is applied. The cheap LED strips use simple resistors to limit the current to a level that does not cause damage. Expensive LED systems use current limiting integrated circuit devices.
I suspect you have a current issue caused by wiring being too small or poor connections. Also, too much other "stuff" on the circuit could be an issue.
Or it could just be Foretravel gremlin. I find some of those every once in while.
Jay,
I didn't understand why if I had 12v, my leds wouldnt light. :headwall:
Cut out the balast - led lights work, go figure :))
Jay,
A little more clarification.
When you measure the voltage on the two wires coming out of your coach with nothing connected, you are measuring an "open circuit" voltage which gives you the the "potential" voltage available from your batteries.
What you need to measure is the voltage drop across your LED's. Do this by connecting the LED's and measuring the voltage at the "+" and "-" connections on the LEDs (where the two wires coming out of your coach connect to the LEDs). If there are no other devices, small gauge wires, or bad connections, you should get a value near the open circuit value.
In your case, I suspect you will find this value to be much lower than the open circuit voltage. Which indicates there is not enough current to drive your LEDs.
Yep, that's the only thing that makes sense. What doesn't make sense is why it would be that way but I'll measure it later today..
Check to make sure you've got the polarity correct on the LEDs. Won't work if reversed.
Chuck, same thing happened to me when I was putting in my led strip lighting. The leds were crossed and when I uncrossed them, voila', worked fine.
I had some issues with getting them to stick. Last time I changed some out, I used an alcohol wipe to attempt to clean the aluminum surface and allowed time for it to dry before applying. I also think the non waterproof led strips stay put a little better. I think the reason is that they just don't weigh as much. I got the waterproof ones to stay in place with zip ties. Anyway, I haven't had the issue of them dropping down over time with the non waterproof ones and wiping with alcohol prior to application. I also got better results with the non waterproof ones when soldering the wires to the strips. I put the strip on the light and left about an inch loose. I soldered to the loose piece and after the solder finished placement. The idea of sticking it to the fixture base was to hold that thing still whilst soldering.
I heard a neat trick that maybe others have tried. I got another roll of waterproof leds, I am going to apply that to my main awning (aluminum) along the length. I plan to run a wire from the leds to the porch light. Mine had a push button that I removed. I thought I would put a female on the porch light fixture and then run a male to the led strip on the awning. It has a female attached to the strip. Soooo... 2 male ended wire to plug into the porch light and also to the awning when I have it unrolled. Put it up when not being used. That wasy if the porch light was on and awning out, I could have lights on the awning. Led's would probably not be too much of a draw either?
I hit the areas starting to come loose and sag with superglue. Usually at one end. So far, so good.
Wear strong glasses and watch for the - and + when soldering and use wires color coded accordingly.
Pierce
I too had the light strips coming loose even after cleaning the aluminum very well. I am now trying some very heavy duty double sided carpet tape and then stick the LEDs to that. We'll see how well they stick. So far (about 3 weeks) things are holding well.
Rich
I found my problem with the porch light. My initial solderjoint at the first LED strip. It was fine on the bench, and fine when I tested it again on teh wall, but all 3 times I switched it over to the coach wiring it must have wiggled the lead just enough to make it not work. Figures... revising solderjoint now. I am finding that hot melt is a great way to both hold the errant strips down, and to immobilize teeny finicky homebrew wiring and solder joints.
I have found that hot glue eventually deteriorates enough to let go and stickyback tape unsticks under heat. My solution was to smear some Shoe Goo and then brace the parts together for a few hours. The parts will never come apart until you take them apart and the Shoe Goo is easily removed. Shoe Goo is found in the shoe department at your Walmart store, is clear and dries clear. When dry it has a rubbery feel to it. I first discovered how effective it is when the shoulder pad on our old landline phones kept coming off. I Shoe Goo-ed it and never had failure again.
I did Shoe Goo the ends of some of my 18" LED light strips when we were down in TX this last winter and they are still holding.
I have not had any issues with my LED strip lighting. I cleaned the surface with acetone before I applied the LED strips, so far they are holding very well.
Roland
I cleaned the surface well and 95% stuck securely with a tiny bit at the end with the wires sagging a little. I used some superglue on a toothpick to apply some to the backing in the problem area and have had no trouble since.
Pierce
My super sticky double sided carpet tape also seems to be holding OK.
Rich
Lee Valley has some very nice surface and flush mount LED strip light channels and diffusers at what seems to me to be pretty agreeable prices. You can make your own light fixtures, protect the LED strips and have a really professional look. Perfect for the closets and the insides of those cabinets where you want light.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71702&cat=51&ap=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71702&cat=51&ap=1)
LeeValley.com has very high quality tools, nice bargains at times, wide variety of hardware and huge catalog of gardening stuff. Request catalogs just to look at the pictures. They are one of my favorite suppliers for lots of stuff.
Roger
If you can't find shoe goo, goop is the same thing and it is sold everywhere
LeeValley.com has very high quality tools, nice bargains at times, wide variety of hardware and huge catalog of gardening stuff. Request catalogs just to look at the pictures. They are one of my favorite suppliers for lots of stuff.
Roger
[/quote]
You cost me a lot of time ;D (went through their online catalog) and if I still had my woodworking shop you would have cost me a lot of $$$$$ :)) . What a great site, added to my favorites. ^.^d
Roland
@Roger Great find! I've made up light strips from 3/4" aluminum angle iron for my bays but it's not near as professional looking as the surface mount ones from Lee Valley. May have to use those in my closets. Thanks for posting.
see ya
ken
I look, make my list and wait for a free shipping offer by email. They usually last a week. Good time to buy. Probably have to get on their email list first. Even if you have to pay shipping it is pretty reasonable relative to many others. And their shipping is prompt.
Happy shopping.
Roger
Roger,Lee Valley great site, I'm just getting started thinking about LED lighting. I take it as our systems are already 12V DC one does not need to install a power supply for the LED strips.
You are good to go with the 12v as it is. You can get 110v to 12v dimmable transformers if you want to have variable lighting. They draw very little power.
Shop around for LED lighting on a roll. The very high quality, high density, warm white strips can cost $8/ft +. I have bought LED strip lights on a spool at EBay for closer to $2/ft. The EBay lights don't seen quite as bright but they seem to be lasting. Just use as many as you need to get the light level you want.
I have replaced all of the fluorescents and most of the 10w halogen lights now with LED. I have not found a good replacement yet for the small round ceiling lights. The LED bulbs that fit are not bright enough. I have to see what FT is using in the newer coaches.
Use warm white inside I like the look better than cool white. I used the cool white LEDs that I got to compare with warm white in the basement. They work fine there.
Roger