I have a 1995 U280 that we live in (since 2001) Slowly, but surely, the water volume has declined over the years. I can turn on the pump and water volume and pressure are good. Without the pump, the pressure comes up slowly, and when the faucet is turned on there is one blast of water, and then it turns to a trickle, unless the pump is turned on. This is bathroom, shower, kitchen, all outlets. My thinking is that there is a restriction built up over time, restricting the flow. Even if there was only a 1/8" hole for the water to pass through, the pressure would get there, with no volume. Where are the possibilities for restriction in the system? Perhaps the inlet check valve, or a sharp turn at a fitting on the reel? I have a pressure regulator that knocks the pressure down to 45 lbs. (from 55-60 lbs. city pressure), and also an inline filter that flows 3gpm. Taking all that out of the system does no good whatsoever. I still get the whoosh of built up pressure, and then just a trickle. Is there any chemical that would relieve the blockage? I have never had the sulphur smell that required flushing the lines, although I have added clorox on a few occasions during the years. Since it has been hooked up to city water ever since I have owned it, I suppose the chemicals and ammonia in their water has kept the bacteria at bay. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Garlan
I know the first attachment to the coach can be changed, and has a very small hole to reduce pressures and work as a back flow valve. Yours might be clogged due to time and age. It is a very inexpensive part. Took just removing the screws and pulling it out, unscrewing the Foretravel plumbing hose off the valve by hand. A 2 minute replacement.
I replaced mine due to it leaking when no hose and using the 12 volt pump system. I have done both my coaches for the same problem. Nice to have a dry service bay!
Garlan, Sounds like calcium deposits are blocking either valves or faucets.
Start with flushing out the water heater, you will probably find all sorts of crud.
Then remove and clean all the strainers on faucets.
Then check the crossover valve under the sink where you switch from city to tank water. The diameter of the hole in this valve is very small and any crud in it will further restrict flow.
And to ease filling of water tank so you don't have to go thru piping install a direct fill firring in your water tank.
I have a 280 like yours and I have had to do all these things over the years.
Do a search here for water tank fill.
Gary B
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the quick reply and info. The water heater is new, replaced last year at Foretravel. Since the problem exists at all outlets, I tend to think the restriction is upstream from all outlets. The water fill valve under the bathroom sink is also very slow to fill the fresh water tank. It takes more than an hour to fill the tank when empty. I am wondering where the check valve is that prevents water from backing out the supply line when running the pump. As I said before, all faucets perform fine when the pump is operating, so it has to be a supply problem from the city connection.
As I said above, the first attachment point on the coach for city water supply hose, is a check valve, and back flow preventer. It might be the clog point. Again, very easy to replace. I would suggest removing the screws and see if the unit will pull out some. Then determine which type of connection you have on the back, hidden side. I bought both, male and female units. Then one was right for my 98 U295, the other was right for Bill Chaplin's 93 U300.
Greetings
I had to replace inlet in Old Faithful 88 gv cause of the same issue described here. Got the chrome replacement 25 bucks At cw.
Garlan,
If you do have a mineral build up you can pump regular old vinegar into the system till you get vinegar out of every tap. Let it set for a day then flush the system with fresh water. This will break down the mineral build up that plates out on the inside of the brass fittings that are part of your water system. If it is as bad as you describe then you may have to do this for more time or twice to get your system clean.
You can use the search feature here and look for vinegar wash or acid wash, there are several discussions as to this procedure.
Pamela & Mike
Mine was so bad at that point that I had to completely replace the check valve!!! It was located on the other side of the wall in other compartment.
One of the most enjoyable and useful modifications I made, based on advice from others on the forum, was adding a fresh water fill directly into the tank. Since its a really rare instance that would have me using city water pressure, will most likely remove the hose reel, check valve etc and cap it off. Free up some space, lose a few pounds, simplify.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to get to work on finding that inlet valve and start there. Will keep you posted.
Garlan
@Garlan What year is your coach? It looks like maybe a 95?
see ya
ken
I had the same problem as you describe and it turned out to be the inline pressure regulator that was installed behind my sanitary bay wall "after" the back flow preventer. The small holes in the pressure regulator became filled with trash to the point that minimal water would flow through it.
Cleaned it all out and it worked fine after that.
I have heard of the same problem being caused by the pump v/s city water fill ball valve under the bathroom sink having the handle come loose from the ball valve shaft to the point that it would not open all the way. As I understand it, that one was VERY hard to find. However, replacing that ball valve, cured the problem.
With a few fittings, you can bypass all of the hardware down there in the sanitary compartment and connect good water pressure to the system and see if the problem is resolved with all of the previous fittings not being involved. Worked for me.
Regards,
Success!! I located the brass pressure regulator (inline) above the reel in its bay. The plastic and rubber internal parts had disintegrated. I took all of the internals out and reinstalled the hull and I now have plenty of volume. I have always used a sophisticated pressure regulaton at the city connection, which is far superior to the OE one. It features a gauge and pressure adjustment screw. Thanks to all for your advice and tips.
Garlan