The hallway light by the pantry stopped working. Before I tear into it - am thinking ballast- any ideas to save me a little work. Tried the tubes but they are OK.
Keith
Keith,
Just go online to a USA seller (for quick shipping) and order a roll of LEDs. Probably the cool white to match the color of the others. Here is an example of the larger LEDs at 300 per 5 meters (16 feet). One or two rows (I used the smaller LEDs 600/5 meters and two rows) will be plenty bright. Just do a forum search using my name and LED for keywords to see exactly how it's done. Just need a few tools and a pencil soldering iron. PM if you get stuck. Can't go wrong for $13 delivered for 5 meters. Enough to do all your ceiling lights plus. Ours still work great without a single failure. 5M Cool White 5050 SMD Non Waterproof Lamp LED Light Strip LED Flexible 300 LEDs (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-Cool-White-5050-SMD-Non-waterproof-Lamp-led-Light-Strip-LED-Flexible-300-leds-/181089020410?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2a29bf29fa)
Pierce
I picked up an LED florescent light from Camping World to try out. It looks like a florescent tube but is LED and doesn't use a ballast. Very simple to install, just cut out the ballast and hook the light to the incoming power leads. It is brighter than the standard florescent tube and I was going to replace all of my florescents with them if it worked out well. Well---- the cost made me stop and think about it some more. (about $28 each). But relamping is a good idea and I still plan to do that, but maybe a different way. Perhaps what Pierce is suggesting is a good way. Have a great day ---- Fritz
Fritz, I am another one that has used the rolls of LED and believe me it is easy and many times cheaper.
John h
Ditto on the LED rolls, LED pricing in mainstream stores, and via most online retailers, is a total scam. I have done many retail and house projects using similar LED products to what the guys mention.
I also am just awaiting my order to totally swap out the crappy, prone to failure, existing lights. My total coach conversion will cost about the same as replacing ONE light via a local supplier.
Pierce... I just put in an order for these. It's been on my "do-list" ever since your posting at least a year ago but... well, you know how that goes. :P
Next is the Classic 150.
Nice having you guys do most of the work. LD
Craig
The warm white color is more like incandescent bulbs, not quite as white (daylight). My preference. These are cheap enough that you them try then both out and pick
Warm White Waterproof 5050 SMD 300LED 5M 60LED M Light Strip Flexible 12V | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400417805389)
This particular roll says they are waterproof. Think of what you could do in the engine compartment or all of those dark basement bays. The circus is coming to town!
ElementalLED is another commercial quality source for strip lighting. I have been using theirs for several years for under cabinet counter lighting and inside cabinet lighting. They are very durable in continuous use situations. More money though.
Roger
Craig,
The choice is what bothers me now. Too many options. Rolls with color and a remote to go from one to another depending on your mood. Water resistive with a round silicone bead covering the LEDs and a different kind with the LED strips inside a silicone sheath. These are the ones I just installed in the closets and in the basement compartments. They are all so inexpensive now. PM if you have a question while doing it.
Was thinking about your solar roof installation. I had to squeeze two of the panels between the AC and the aluminum grab rails at the rear sides. Make sure your panels will fit your 96 inch coach at the same spots.
I just screwed the little tabs on the panel mounts into the roof as a temporary measure but have received a bag of 1/4-20 STEEL THREAD SERT so will drill to install these and then use 1/4" stainless to bolt the panels down. I can then easily remove any or all of the panels to do roof maintenance. Available in steel or aluminum 100 count for about $28 delivered for the steel, plus $10 for aluminum. Takes the longer of the two sizes available. Will post fastener photo with the photos of the closet and compartment LED installation in a couple of days.
Roger,
I used the warm white for the under cabinet lights/over the sink and a couple of spot lights. Excellent warm cozy color that works well with the wood. Kent had suggested the higher Kelvin white for the overhead and because of the slight color to the ceiling light lenses, my warm LEDs on the ceiling are a tiny bit too yellow but work well. One of the rolls of warm white also changed color and went more yellow mid-roll. Bad quality control. I used the bright white for the closets and cargo compartment.
The cargo compartment installation was Ez. I ripped a 3/4" inch thick board to about 2 inches wide and put a 45 degree angle on it for the passenger's side. I cut a 30 degree angle for the driver's side as the light has to reach further into the compartment. Just painted the 2 inch strip black and screwed it to the compartment ceiling the whole way across and used the stock compartment swithes. With the stock bulb gone, the two copper strips are perfect for a push on connector. Just have to make sure of the polarity as it is fatal to a strip if connected backwards. They turn the cargo compartment into day now if dark outside. Same with the closets. Would like to install magnetic switches in the closets as the OEM contacts get dirty and are not a neat installation.
Pierce
My solar panels have not moved any in the 2+ yrs they have been on and they have done15k+ miles in all weathers. Mine are smaller than Pierce's though. I would hate the idea of drilling the roof. They can be off in a minute if I need to do it.
John H
Pierce, every manufacturer is a bit different. Kelvin temp is what determines color. I was surprised that the eBay warm white and cool white were the same lumens per foot. Warm white almost always produces less lumens. I use the Elemental LED lights when it counts (when I don't want issues coming back for me to fix.) Consisted light output, color and great quality.
In any case, i ordered a roll of each (waterproof) color to try out. They are very cheap. You probably get what you pay for.
Every watt you save is important.
Roger
Roger,
Yes, the 6500K cool white should put out a bit more lumens, ~ 20% more.
Cheap or expensive, our installation has gone at least two years without a single failure. Have replaced some of our home lights with direct import LED bulbs and also have not had a failure.
Here is a lumen comparison chart in PDF form with 3000K warm white vs 6500K cool white.
Soldering to the tiny copper dots seems to be more reliable than the small clamps offered. I just can't get them to work consistently.
Pierce
I hate the idea of drilling into the roof, too. But I'm also nervous about a 2-sq-in pad taped to the roof. I have considered making a larger pad, fastening the panel supports to the pad and then taping the pad down to give something like a 4x4-inch area.
The only thing that stops me is that it's another failure point. :P
Craig
Craig,
I share your concern about drilling the roof but had a mini tornado rip off a closed bathroom skylight not far from Kamloops in Canada. The roof has already been drilled a couple hundred times mounting vents, rails, etc. I talked to several solar shops and was told they screw directly into the roof and use a dab of GE Silicone II to seal each screw.
Pierce
Find side to side roof metal supports with an electronic stud finder, like Zircon (Zircon designs and manufactures the best stud finders and a wide range of DIY (http://zircon.com)) and screw into them for stronger fastening. We have also gone up on roof on a high humidity early morning to see where the roof supports are located. In any case, we mark their locations with a magic marker.
The reason I said I hate the idea of more holes in roof is because with my size panels there IS no need to do it and tempt the weather gods.
Yes, I agree there are already many in the roof but also how many coaches are out there with leaks from screws (even after caulking)--thousands, and many or our members have had issues!
If you use VHB tape then levelling caulk it is not an problem. That tape holds buildings together-many floors up.If the roof has been painted after new, then yes, you will need to do it.
This of course is just my thought on this topic.
John H
I taped our panels down with tape and have about 20,000 miles on them. No problems. I'll tape anything else down before I drill into the roof.
I used leveling caulk to cover up the screw holes left after we dismounted both the storage box (which was broken anyway) and the ancient satellite dish. I feel pretty confident that it sealed up well. I hope. :P
It seemed to level out fairly well but not what I would call "level" by any means. I did not feel the urge to smooth it out, though.
I have the VHB tape and intend on using it. What sort of roof prep did Amsolar do? Just buff it out? And where do you use the leveling caulk after you put down the tape? Around the mounts?
I am a little concerned about harmonic vibrations in the long (5-foot) span we we mount them athwartships. Since we have only two large panels the only concern I have about roof space is for future expansion to one more panel; almost certainly not two more. I simply cannot put enough batteries aboard to soak up that sort of current flow.
Craig
I think AmSolar used a de-natured alchohol or maybe something like your wifes nail polish remover. Then apply the brkts with the tape on and then the caulk. I have gone around them again with caulk just as a maintenance thing.
I poted pics a long time ago on the wind deflectors I made up for the solar panels (not the ones at rear) They stop ant wind going under and over the panel but when parked do not affect the cooling of panel. If you cannot find it in past posts I will take a pic in the morning and post. They too are just taped on and caulked and made of aluminum.
JohnH