I'm contemplating bringing our coach in to Bridgeway Cummins of GR for a complete coolant and coolant hose change. We are planning on trips to FL and TX this coming winter and would like to have that piece of mind. The only issue we've had was a failed 2" coolant hose under the engine whilst driving home after purchase. I'm sure the coolant has never been changed. Our unit has 70K for mileage.
My question is, are these hoses proprietary to our particular coaches that should be ordered from FOT? Should the coolant be flushed or just changed? Is there anything else that should be done while we're having this done, ie sensors? thx
If you are not doing a complete flush be sure you use the same type coolant that you have now. My 99 came with Texaco ELC since Shell and Texaco merged I use the Shell Rotella. I was told by Shell they couldnt say it was the same thing, but they told me in so many words that it was. This coolant requires NO additive. Mine had a sticker on the tank saying it had the Texaco. Mixing different coolant can cause alot of issues.
As for the hose just use a quality hose, to my knowledge it is just stick hose.
Did the diesel mechanic tell you to change your hoses and coolant? What was the reason? Normally they test the coolant and then add some chemicals to it if it's weak. The hoses are usually high silicone and don't deteriorate. This isn't like a car that needs coolant and hose changes every few years. Commercial trucks are much more durable, but call Foretravel and ask them before you decide, just saying. If you replace the hoses be prepared for a HUGE repair bill. Each high silicone hose will cost over a hundred dollars just for the parts, not including labor.
No, a diesel mechanic hasn't suggested we do this..just a proactive maintenance idea. The 2" piece I replaced was not silicone, just regular coolant hose and I do have enough for a spare. I'm assuming the silicone ones are reddish in color and have an additional metal band in the middle?
But you are right, I'm basing my thinking on auto maintenance.
Were it mine and were I planning on keeping it, I would certainly change coolant after 15 years. And if silicone hoses would check them, but no automatically replace them. Rubber hoses I would replace with Gates Green Stripe: http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1113&location_id=1175 (http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1113&location_id=1175)
Flush and go back with the same ELC coolant (or Shell replacement).
The silicone hoses I have worked with are blue in color. Unless installed improperly, they should be good for the life of the vehicle or longer. They are VERY expensive. As recommended above, Gates Green Stripe products are excellent (belt tensioners, hoses, belts of all types) in quality and are used by a lot of fleet operators. Most automotive stores will charge an arm or a leg for the Gates fleet products but an online search will bring them to your door for half the price or less with the difference between the HD and the Green Stripe only a couple of dollars.
Pierce
To answer some of your question that I do not think was answered before, I seem to remember a lot of the hoses are actually CUT from other standard shape ones and therefore not seen in parts books etc. Brett will correct me I hope if I am wrong. There had been mention that others had trouble trying to source hoses to match and this was the reason mentioned. SO, if I am correct you will have to look at many to see if what you need can be cut from some other.
John H
We believe coolant should be periodically changed and never use a different coolant than in there previously. We always drain, FLUSH-1: fill with water, drive to warm engine, drain, FLUSH-2: fill with water, drive to warm engine, drain, fill with new antifreeze, add distilled water to fill up. Some use distilled for last flush. Even with flushing, some coolant stays in system and stays in gasket materials and using a different type of coolant may react with gaskets and cause problems. We do not think permanent coolant is Permanent. Much better to be too soon, & error on the side protecting engine, heat exchanger, heater core, radiator, etc. Good time to change any hoses in question. Always use diesel compatible antifreeze. Change coolant filter if there is one. Understand about DCA protection. Hard to accurately measure if old coolant is still good.
With Shell Rotella ELC, Caterpillar ELC or Fleetguard (Cummins) OAT coolant, there is no DCA/SCA testing or adding.
Also, with any of these OAT-based coolants, the coolant filter has ZERO units SCA-- very important. Coolant filter do TWO things-- supply SCA (amount expressed in "units") and filter. A zero unit coolant filter filters ONLY.
I took my coach to Stewart & Stevenson when I first bought it, because I've got a Detroit Diesel and they're the service center. They told me they hardly ever change coolant. They test it and add chemicals if needed. I'm told that's what all the diesel service centers do. I asked them where I could buy the test kit they have but none of them knew where to get one. I asked at several parts houses but none of them sell the test kit and they can't even order it. I had to change my coolant when my radiator was destroyed a year ago so it's not important to me currently, but in the next couple of years I'm gonna find one of those coolant test kits. Always add straight antifreeze, not 50/50 mix, whenever you need to add coolant. You'll probably find that your coolant tests out just fine. Don't forget to test the coolant in your genset too. Changing coolant isn't expensive like changing hoses, so it's not that big of a deal. I suspect you could change coolant for less than a hundred dollars if you do it yourself. The parts place that sells you the antifreeze should be able to properly dispose of your old coolant. You can probably do the coolant change right in their parking lot, which would be very convenient... but I'd get it tested before changing it... or even before that I'd call Foretravel or the manufacturer of your engine for their official advice instead of relying on this forum, just saying.
Scott,
If you are loosing coolant, and only add concentrate, you will deminish your cooling capacity. Much over 50% coolant has less ability to carry/transfer heat.
And what is tested and added depends entirely on what coolant chemistry is being used. With a "regular" diesel coolant with added SCA, the SCA is "used up" and must be replaced.
But, if an OAT-based coolant that most of us run, there is NO testing unless you run over 6 years and/or 300,000 miles.
Worse thing you can do is treat a regular diesel coolant as if it were SCA OR an OAT-based coolant like regular diesel coolant.
Note-- regular Prestone/automotive coolant is not approved for any diesel (with the possible exception of the small Cummins B engine).
When I had a new radiator placed several years ago I went with the fleetguard oat.They claim it is compatable with all coolants but I still would not mix coolants. They also recomend using fleetguard oat extender after three years which I just did.
I would contact the manufacturer of the engine or Foretravel on something this important and not rely on this forum. In my case I did as Stewart & Stevenson told me to because they're the Detroit Diesel service center, and Foretravel said the same thing they did. To rely on information from this forum instead of the manufacturer when making important decisions defies common sense.
I think it is difficult to get a complete chemical coolant analysis. Too much acid and it eats out the insides of stuff, etc. Easy to test for freeze protection, though. Only way to be sure is to change it. Everything else is an estimate. Every place now considers antifreeze a pollutant, so dumping on ground or into a sewer like we did years ago could get one in big trouble. I feel that dumping flush water is probably ok. Same engines started out with different coolant over the years, so manufactures may not know what previous owner put in.
I use the Fleetgard OAT test strips every 6 months. I have had to add one jug of extender in six months. I use the extended life blank filters, which require change every 3 years.
Several flavors of coolant test strips are available at Amazon.com. I bought a few test strips at a local Rush Truck Center. I was testing for SCA.
Indeed, test strip chemistry MUST follow coolant chemistry.
Said another way, using a test strip for "regular diesel coolant with SCA" will NOT be accurate for OAT'based coolants.
I do not recommend test strips for the reason Brett gave. If the test strip is not for your type coolant the results may not be correct. I recommend you stop by your local Cat dealer and get the container, pull a sample from the bottom of the radiator, not the top, the reason being so they can see the contamination particles. Take it back to the dealer where it can be sent off for testing.
This is the method we used on hugh back up generators. The coolant was only changed when tested coolant warranted change.
Taking good coolant out and replacing with good coolant serves no purpose.
Thank you for the coolant/hose education everyone. I believe you've saved us some coinage by inspecting and probably leaving alone the silicone hoses and just replace the rubber ones. I'll call FOT for the original coolant used. If OAT wasn't OE coolant can OAT be used at this time or should we replace w/ whatever FOT used?
When switching from a "low silicate for diesel with added SCA/DCA" to an OAT-based coolant, you do need to use a coolant system flush. I know Caterpillar has the part number right on the jug of their ELC.
Indeed, see what is in there now-- whether OE (hopefully not) or something put in by a previous owner.