Foretravel Owners' Forum

We're about ready to get all the pieces/parts so we can tow our 2012 Jeep Liberty behind our coach. I've done a bit of research, and found two sets of equipment. Both places are about an hour's drive from here, but in opposite directions. Here's what I've found:

Blue Ox products:
Products for 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport (http://www.blue-ox-towbars.com/vaf/product/list/?gclid=CLGrjcXQnLsCFclcMgodryMABA&category=%3F&year=28&make=399&model=1763&style=2280)
Motorhome Mounted Tow Bars - Blue Ox Tow Bars (http://www.blue-ox-towbars.com/tow-bars/motorhome-mounted)
Supplemental Braking Systems (http://www.blue-ox-towbars.com/supplemental-braking-systems)

Camping World:
http://www.campingworld.com/order/wizard/index.cfm?skuNum=1040D&cord_Group=11 (http://www.campingworld.com/order/wizard/index.cfm?skuNum=1040D&cord_Group=11)
Falcon 2 Tow Bar for Blue Ox Brackets - Roadmaster 525 - Camping World (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/falcon-2-tow-bar-for-blue-ox-brackets/21427)
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/roadmaster-invisibrake/56814 (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/roadmaster-invisibrake/56814)

Camping World didn't list our specific car, so the reference is for a 2011, but I don't think there is much difference, and I would guess that the price would be about the same. Right now CW is running a deal on installation that makes their set pretty attractive. I don't want to be penny-wise and pound-foolish, though, so if Blue Ox is better we'll go with them. I understand that Blue Ox is made in Nebraska, which is our home state. I don't know where Roadmaster is made, and I hope it isn't China. If so, the decision is for Blue Ox.

Any thoughts on either of these product lines? PM or email me if you don't want to share your comments publicly.

I've used a Blue-Ox tow bar for years. No problems.
Had a BrakeBuddy years ago and a Blue-Ox Patriot for 3 years. PITA to hook up and  I was never confident they worked 'properly'.
Now I have an  M&G and it beats the others hands down. I can really feel the difference towing our Wrangler.

Blue Ox is what we used for 12 years.

I bought CW for convenience, but most swear by Blue Ox. Towed Element 70,000 miles so far no problem, but would probably go Blue Ox next time just based on reputation

Element 2,999 lbs (:-)) so no aux break for me

Careful Tim, as I looked at a list of states that have brake laws, and the weights vary from low to high.

Towing Laws | BrakeBuddy - Braking systems for motorhomes towing a vehicle (http://www.brakebuddy.com/Towing-Laws)

This list only has a couple of states listed:

Toad Brake Requirements (http://home.roadrunner.com/~morodat/toad-brakes-by-state.html)

Have you looked at tow cars that are driven around town after being disconnected from a motorhome?  Blue Ox baseplates 99% of the time do not have any towing equipment on the front of the car, because only two small round inserts are twisted out. Even though Roadmaster is more popular, partly because Camping World carries it, most do not remove Roadmaster hitch-up steel equipment probably because it is harder to remove, quite heavy and there is no place to store the gear.  Removing towing gear besides looking cleaner, prevents shin bangs.

 Roadmaster is Portland Oregon. Very good products.
 I use their hitch and made up my own bar and welded brackets to the frame then bolt that to them. Rock solid, so much that I have also been using that setup to pull tree stumps out with the Tracker.
John H

I've used Roadmaster Sterling for years.  I always remove tow gear when driving toad.  Five minute operation.  I leave it under rear of coach.

Yes, am aware. Guess I could be a scofflaw in some stars. Legal in WI where tagged.

On Friday, December 6, 2013, Dave and Dolly Cobb wrote:

I'm not going out now to check the the Jeep's weight, but I suspect that it is heavy enough that it will need a braking system.

We tow Jeep Wranglers, the current one is a 4Dr. I use a Roadmaster stow master, and M&G air brake never had a problem, If we plan on driving long distance or off road the tow bar comes off, otherwise just fold it up on the front of the jeep and go. I bought the tow bar used in 2006 no idea how old it is but never had a problem, takes about 10 minutes on or off. and hooking up to the M/H is a breeze.

I use a RoadMaster Stowmaster towbar mounted on my Wrangler and connect it to a a readyBrake hitch. 

ReadyBrake Supplemental Brake System for Towed Vehicles - NSA RV Products (http://www.readybrake.com/brake-systems.html)

The Stowmaster was a barely used one that I got for $250 including a set of brackets for a Honda Civic.  The brackets were easily modified to use on the Jeep.  The Stowmaster is easy to remove from the jeep if we don't want it on.

The readybrake works on anything with a 2" receiver hitch.  It applies the Jeep's brakes with a simple and adjustable mechanical link.  It also came with a break-away connection.  All of this is independent of the stowmaster.

Simple, effective, priced right, keeps me legal, makes towing safer.

Roger

David, With experience with both Blue ox and Roadmaster I would lean towards the Blueox. 
I have had both and right now I have a Roadmaster Stowmaster for sale that I will take $175 for.
Gary B

                 We tow our CVR with a Ready-Brute tow bar with the integrated Ready-Brake like Rodger has. Very heavy duty tow set up with a simple and effective braking system. Less expensive than others too.

              Dean

I too, am using the ReadyBrute tow bar, but with a seperate ReadyBrake supplemental unit that I already had.  Before I got the ReadyBrute tow bar, I had a Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar and bent one of the tow arms (my fault).  I considered getting it repaired, but decided against it because much of the powder coating was peeling off.  I ran across a great deal on the ReadyBrute and jumped on it,  Three main reasons for deciding on the ReadyBrute tow bar were great price, 8000 lb capacity, and full lifetime guarantee.

We tow a Jeep Liberty. Have a Sterling tow bar and a US Gear braking system. Would not be without the US Gear braking system. Although a bit pricey and time consuming to install it works and works well. Once installed there is no further messing with the thing, when you plug the cord into the socket for the lights the brakes are connected. When they install the braking system they install a pump in the Jeep's hydraulic line which is activated and proportionally applies the Jeep's brakes when you apply the coach brakes. A lot of folks don't like messing with hydraulic lines, we have had this system on our coach and Jeep for as long as we have owned the Grand Villa and have had zero issues. Whatever system you finally decide on, make sure whoever does the installation uses the diode kit for the toad's lights.

Roland

Check my signature block.  I'm using the Roadmaster because it was like new and came with the coach.  My brother went with the BlueOx.  It does stay with the coach instead of the front of the toad. 

My brake light kit is independent of the Jeep lights.  They installed a new separate light bulb in the bottom of the back light lens. 

My wife made a nice cover for the tow bar and the only time I feel like I need to take the towbar off is if I'm going through a carwash.  It takes about 5 minutes to remove.

She also made a rock guard/tow skirt as describe in another post on this forum.

Overall, I'm very happy with our setup.

We use a Roadmaster All Terrain Blackhawk because it has the highest capacity I could find at 10,000 #. We towed a 4x4 Suburban prior to the Wrangler and it was pretty heavy.  I like a little overkill on towing apparatus.

Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories (http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/towbars/blackhawk2.html)

I like the tow bar staying on the coach because the Wrangler is my daily driver and that leaves only the small insert points below the bumper that are visible.  Neither the Suburban nor the Wrangler require the crossbar shown in the link because they have a substantial frame member to bolt the receivers to.

Also on the Wrangler I found a plug-in light adaptor that didn't require cutting into any of the Jeep wiring.  Not sure that's available for other models.

Prior to that we had towed a old air cooled VW that didn't weigh much more than a big law mower. A $50 VW tow bar handled it nicely.

Rick, not to change the subject line, but was wondering which rig you towed the suburban with and how did the drive train handle it? Just trying to figure what I will be able to tow with whatever size engine/tranny we get.

Thanks in advance,
Larry

I think we only towed the Suburban with the U295 and the U320.  I'm sure the U280 would have towed it just fine as well. It was a 4 speed. Those other two gears are amazing along with the retarder on the newer coaches.  The ORED would probably have been fine but didn't have 4 wheel disk so not as much stopping power.

We hooked up one of our old volkswagens behind the U280 once and after we had gone a few blocks my daughter said "I bet I should have taken it out of gear." 

The fastest that old VW ever went n it's life was behind the U280 on a quick trip back from Louisiana. The speedometer was out and I drove by the tach. I didn't realize till I got the speedometer fixed that I misjudged and we drove 75 to 80 all the way home.  The trip was smooth and quiet.  I hadn't driven the 280 enough to know how fast we were going. You sat so high up in that one and it drove so well 70 seemed like 50.

I have Blue Ox motorhome 10,000# tow bar, and like that it stays on the coach.

On the Avalanche I have the Blue Ox receiver sockets and like the way all the towing stuff comes off so very easy and quickly. One captured pull spring loaded pin to release, a half turn and pull out the part.  Small, simple and quick to remove, both fit in one hand, go into a storage drawer.

I had separate wiring harness and light bulbs added to the Avalanche.  Not cutting into the Chevy system, way less chance of problems.  I had the M & G air brake system added to the coach and the Avalanche, with the breakaway, option as well.  Seamless braking, easy hook up, and works.

On the Saturn the PO installed the hidden Roadmaster receiver sockets.  But I do not like the larger hook up parts that are over a foot long, have square end plates and are heavy.  They are then a pain in the fingers to install the loose hitch pins back under the bumper.  Nor do I like the needed heavy car cross bar and two more loose pins.  Takes two trips from storage to the back of the coach, or let them rattle in the back of the Saturn.  So there are four loose pins to install or remove the tow parts, before the next two pins to hook the coach to the Saturn.  The thing rattles when you drive the Saturn, sticks out 6" from the front bumper and is a shin catcher.

I have a Brake Buddy brake petal system to drop into the Saturn, with the remote indicator lights to know when it is working.

Thanks Rick. Loved the VW story. Lots of memories in a couple of older ones.

Larry

Consider Tow Daddy for rear tow car lights. No drilling, no wire cutting. We just unplugged Jeep's rear tail light wiring and plugged Tow Daddy's male & female connectors. It also has a built-in brake relay if needed and comes with a long cable to front of car. Tow Daddy control box is small and contains all the necessary diodes.  We have been using it for two years on our new Jeep Grand. Love the idea that I can did not have to cut OEM wires. Our Jeep has a Chrysler Lifetime bumper to bumper warranty and if any issues with lights come up, we can instantly restore Jeep to original state.

Tow Daddy - The Best Designed RV Products on the Planet (http://www.towdaddy.com/)

Our Blue Ox tow bar is rated at 10,000 pounds.
http://www.blue-ox-towbars.com/tow-bars/motorhome-mounted/aventa-lx-tow-bar- (http://www.blue-ox-towbars.com/tow-bars/motorhome-mounted/aventa-lx-tow-bar-) with-2-shank