When I took my slide header off, it was a one-piece U affair, with the end columns LOOSELY attached with a 4 screw mess on each side. They looked like #8 or #10, about 2-1/2" long. Most were loose, broken, not fully screwed in, etc. As a result, when we got the affair loose and were "walking" it away from the wall, the frailty was apparent and the pieces twisted and luckilly, didn't do major damage when it all fell down...with 2 of us.
I did not like this design whatsoever. The loose side screws into the columns left all the weight of the 60 lb, 13 ft long header to be held by the 4-5 screws at the back of the thing.
Looking at the thing from the end, it is a giant "L". The screws that were holding it up are at the right-most edge of the L. Lots of stress. Frankly, I am surprised the whole header did not split from all the weight being held by the 5 screws in the rear-most inch of the lower part of the wood.
I thought about just putting metal Angle brackets on, but figured they might bend ad squeak.
After thinking a bit more, I went to Lowe's and found 4 metal construction connectors ($.78 each), meant to hang wood in roofing. I drilled two extra holes in the vertical section of the metal to mount to the header with 5/8" pan head screws. Then I ripped two pieces of 3/4" wood to slightly less than 2-3/4" wide and 58" long.
The result changes the end view of the header into more of upside-down F. I lifted the thing up and the two pieces of 3/4" wood now rest atop the welded and solid Train cylinder apparatus. I will use the same 5 screws as before to hold up the back of the header, but they will no longer hold all the weight and let the header bounce as we go down the road.
With the header off, I used two 2x3 blocks under each side of the new boards to position it correctly to go over the train apparatus. It turned out too tight, so I added a piece of redwood lathe (about 3/16" thick) to give me just a little more room. I had to do all that inside, as it did not look like removing that 13' long header from the coach would be possible
I will likely put some wide weatherstripping atop the two Train pieces so that the wood does not squeak if there is a little movement when I reassemble it. When I reinstall the side columns that are screwed on to the edge of the wall, I am not sure how or if I will connect them to the header. It won't be with two small pieces of pine 1x2s and skinny screws tho. It must all stay apart now until HWH and I solve the slide creep (see the other thread).
Hopefully the pictures will clarify what I did.
Great use of a rafter-joist bracket. Much stronger!
You would think the header would be stiffer thsn you describe. Looks like a tough but reasonable solution.
Hi Brad - Thought I would attach what I did.
Not sure exactly how that bracket connects, Scott. My header ends 1/4" before either side piece and they just had little flat trim pieces in there between each junction. I also had those 1x2 blocks glued to the side pieces...but that is what the screws had torn out while traveling. I may end up with something on the ends lifting it up even higher, thus making zero contact with the train mechanism, but these two added boards make for an easy lift up and placement of the header itself while installing the screws. The same 5 screws that were holding the 60 lbs will still be there to do that job. There really isn't much weight at all on these two long boards, and whatever weight might be on the train cylinder mounting would be disbursed over the 319 sq in surface (116" x 2.75") onto the two mountings...which use several very large bolts through the tube frames.
I am anxious to get it all tested out, but have to wait for the caps to do the next round of testing of the cylinders. I'm waiting for Foretravel to get back to me on the availability of replacement plastic for the train cylinders. Mike asked me for pictures of it and then must have gotten busy Friday.
Guess they are all made a bit differently. I'm sure what you are doing will work great. I attached a pic of our header and leg joint. I assumed that what we had everyone had. Our header is nowhere near 60# - 30# maybe.
This is what mine looked like. I took the wood trim (top and bottom) off and it weighed 14 lbs. The rest of the header was 46 lbs. I actually took a scale out and lifted it up by the middle once it was off. Since devising my plan here, I put the trim wood back on as it does look a lot better than with the flattened foam where I took the wood off.
If you look closely, you can see that 1/4" piece that was nailed to the end of the header (with a nail gun). It fills the gap between the cloth part of the header and the side.
WOW