So after driving most of the night in the Kansas snowstorm, I pull into a Missouri rest area and leave the FT running in neutral. When I go to leave, the transmission will not shift out of neutral, instead just blinking in both 6 and R. No engagement of the transmission.
I have read every thread on here and many on other sites regarding MD3060 issues so I have gotten any codes. At first I wasn't getting anything, D1-D1. I went under the rig anyway and disconnected and reconnected every transmission connection I could find and sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. After doing all of this, I got a D1-2214, speed sensor issue, disconnected/reconnected and error hasn't come back. Next I got a D1-6600 retarder issue but after disconnect/reconnect of the connections, it too has gone and not come back. Now I am back to a D1-D1, no diagnostic issues, but the transmission still won't engage.
I have also cleaned/tightened the battery terminals and grounds. No change. The batteries aren't the newest but they don't have any trouble starting the coach. I had been driving for 500+ miles before this happened though the moisture from the snow and rain seems like an issue.
Does anybody have any ideas here?
Start the generator. My tyranny acted up because of a bad alternator.
best, paul
What are the RPMs at Idle?
What is the idle rpm's? If higher than about 850 (??) the Transmission will not go into drive.
(edit) Sorry Gary...Great minds think alike...LOL
Looks just shy of 800. 775 maybe.
Sorry, to be more specific, if for some reason , the motor is not returning to full idle, the transmission will not go into gear.
What year is your coach? If it is a 2001 or 2002 and has a slide, the transmission will not leave Neutral if it thinks the slide is not in and locked. Not sure about other years.
Then there is a simple twist of a button on the side of one of the HWH computer modules.
In case this is the issue, I found the instructions from the HWH 2000 Series Manual:
"NEUTRAL HOLD OVERRIDE SWITCH
If a room is not fully retracted and locked the transmission will not shift out of "NEUTRAL".
If the rooms are fully retracted and locked and the transmission will not shift out of NEUTRAL, using a key or a screwdriver turn the HOLD OVERRIDE selector switch to the position labeled "220" the switch is located on the outside of the Central Control Module. This will allow the transmission to be shifted. The system should be serviced as soon as possible. The HOLD OVERRIDE selector switch should be
left in the "110" position for normal operation."
Good thought Brad,,, If there is no travel light,,,, it won't go into gear.
Postings with a profile that mentions coach year & model, usually bring back more appropriate responses tailored to the coach. First name also helps.
You mention you disconnected & reconnected cables at transmission. How about cables to computer located near driver's left foot and cables to transmission keypad and retarder?
From a Google search:
"The Allison shift controls have what we call "Shift inhibits", These are circumstances when the transmission ECU prevents the transmission from going into gear to prevent damage. The most common one is the engine RPM is to high and we inhibit range to prevent shock loading the transmission when it goes into gear. So your transmission is working as designed, anything over 900 RPM can cause the inhibit. The way to tell when this is happening is the keypad digit will flash."
For sure too high idle and too low battery voltage will prevent proper transmission operation.
I had one of my lock pins lose contact and the tranny would not shift. I had to cycle the slide. Do you have the level light on. If so that is a good first step if you have a slide. You do not tell us your year so there are different ways to override depending on year.
Just realized that my info isn't in my sig.
1998 34' C8.3 U270 No slide.
Where exactly is the ECU for the Allison? Travel light is lighted on HWH.
I will try to track down the under dash connections.
Thank you all for your help.
I had the same problem. It was caused by too high idle speed. I was able to get the coach home by starting the engine and putting it in gear as soon as the engine started. I posted here and the experts here told me to check idle speed. I checked cruise linkage, etc. I could find nothing wrong so I turned down the idle screw and everything works as it should.
Owner of problem coach shows his motorhome to be a 34' 1998 U270. Don't think there is an HWH slide out issue.
I dropped the idle down to 700 but still getting nothing but a blinking 6 on the Allison keypad. Is there any sort of hard reset to do on the Allison ECU or did it immediately allow you to engage the transmission?
No expertise at all but pull the negative cable of the engine batteries for a second? Reset?
you are lucky as I had many issues of revs refusing to go below 1200 on this trip. I had to physically lift bed and push the control arm on pump back to make it idle. Had that bed up about 50 times on trip.Finally bought some rope and tied it too arm and pulled on it when I wanted it to drop!!! Lack of lubrication and service is what I put it down too finally. It works now 50% of time and is one of my first fixes along with allison retarder not working.
John H
Robert
take a hair drier to the shift pad and warm it up a bit if the coach is cold, it may be related to the shift pad being cold.
Good luck,
Rick
In the Wanderlodge group, there was a similar problem that was solved by shutting everything off and letting a "Shift inhibitor relay" get time to cool down.
Found this elsewhere:
"When the keypad flashes when you try to go in range "You have an active shift inhibit". What this means is the transmission will not obtain range because it would be unsafe to. There can be many different causes for an inhibit the most common things that will inhibit range in order are as follows. 1) Parking brake switch is applied. 2) Engine RPM to high "Over 925 or so ". 3) Throttle is not closed "Stuck open slightly". 4) And sometimes things on the coach can also be wired into the Allison ECU such as leveling system, slide outs,even fuel tank doors sometimes. If the coach has an mechanical throttle try lifting up on the pedal the next time it wont go in range. "The transmission will not set codes for a range inhibit'"
Bought two new batteries, didn't make a difference. Tomorrow morning I will give a call to Allison and FT. Thank you all for your help and I will keep you updated.
I would try RICK's suggestion of heating the control pad. My coach has this problem when the pad gets cold.
Gave it a try but it didn't do anything. I'm willing to try anything at this point though.
I've been having an erratic issue with the Level System Alarm coming and going after the Kansas snowstorm and I'm starting to wonder if this has anything to do with possibly being a Shift Inhibitor function. I pulled over and checked out all of the airbags and couldn't find any reason why the LSA lit up the first time and it certainly didn't cause the Allison to lock me out at that time and it went away. The LSA alarm would come and go for seemingly no reason as I continued to drive for the next 8 hours or so and didn't stop my traveling but it has lit up recently and doesn't seem to be going away (as mentioned, I can't find any actual issues with the leveling system). It hasn't lit up until this last time that I started the engine to keep the batteries up since the Powertech/Isuzu genet is such a drama queen when it gets cold.
I guess I'll open up the controls for it and try to clean it all up this morning before I call in someone from the Allison repair shop 20 miles away. For all the breakdown possibilities that I had considered before traveling, a transmission that won't shift out of neutral was not on the list.
caflashbob,
I disconnected everything and shut off the master disconnect switch while I was changing out the batteries for 30 minutes or so but the flashing 6 and R were right back when I started up the engine.
Thank you all.
Robert when I had my problem I did not have to reset anything.By putting the trans in gear as soon as the engine started the engine was at a lower RPM so the trans would shift. It sounds like you have a different problem if you are at 700 RPM. Mark
When I was having Allison problems I was told to use a hairdryer to warm the ECU. I did this for several days til I could get to an Allison shop and it worked. I then sent the ECU to John ? in Texas and he rebuilt it. I can't recall the company name right now.
Gary B
866 439 9779 John Kopalek
My Allison ECU is on the rear wall of the water pump compartment.
Robert,
About the only thing not mentioned so far is check the transmission fluid level. If low, no shift.
Seems the last resort is a tow to a Allison shop that can scan the computer to see what is what.
All the best.
Robert,
I don't see mention of your having verified that the King Throttle Control unit is working properly.
I keep going back to your problem onset where you had driven a long way in wet, nasty conditions. Then the transmission wouldn't shift out of neutral.
The Allison requires RPM and other "Shift Permissive" information from the King Controls Unit in order to allow a shift from neutral to "R" or "D". Once in gear, it requires different information; throttle POSITION sensor and BRAKE LIGHT FILAMENT resistance to GROUND in order to allow more than a "limp-home throttle setting - generally = 1100 to 1200 RPM for the 8.3.
I know that you have lowered the idle RPM, but the Allison still may not have that information due to a connection being momentarily or permanently open in the wiring from the King Control Unit to the Allison (For an onset occurring during operation in snowstorm conditions -- highest probability place being a plug connector).
Right at the King Control unit (for those that do not know - engine side-rail, curb side) , there are several "Plug and Play" wire plug connections. These are pretty nicely designed to exclude moisture and the elements. However, I have found that they sometimes don't stay seated firmly. I have separated them, inspected, cleaned, dielectric greased, reseated and then tie-wrapped them firmly together to prevent re-occurrence of a failure to shift out of neutral (one time) and a failure to respond to throttle position (a second time). I've attached a couple of the King Controls Unit Wiring diagrams, in case you don't have them.
Good luck, best wishes and keep us posted.
Neal
I was able to talk to him earlier and was able to use the "hit the Drive button before the engine reaches idle from a start" to limp home. But this is not fixed. You cannot shift to neutral or else it reverts back to the blinking 6 and R. You have to shut the engine down and restart every time.
The transmission is shifting very aggressively, holding gears nearly up to redline and won't actually shift up into 6th gear from 5th, even at 70 mph.
The weather is supposed to warm up here over the next few days and I am going to hose off the underbody and engine compartment which will hopefully reveal something that I have missed.
I will keep you updated with what I find.
I wonder what would happen if you used the MODE Allison shifting routine.
Recheck for diagnostic codes.
On mine I found that if I did not have full battery voltage the transmission would go into default mode. I could then drive but it would not shift into 5th and I was limitred to 45MPH. Properly charged batteries solved it. As a quick fix try leaving the boost switch on. Just a thought.
Gary B
I would echo Neal's offering.
Last year had same problem. Mine was related to the battery terminals. Cleaned. No problems since. Mine even sent itself into reverse at a red light and quickly started backwards. If that doesn't scare you then nothing will....
The other occasion was a slide out issue as earlier mentioned.
Good luck.
David
Does that ever bring back memories!!! I did it with a Silver 92, 10 speed, attached to the gasoline tanker behind me. Stupid speed bump >:D !!
I really don't know what to say or even if this is a good or bad thing but after using a light duty power washer to clean everything up, the transmission works just fine.
There was lots of ice, snow, dirt, and rocks still packed in various crevices on the MH until the power washing but now that everything has been cleaned I'm not having any issues. I would very much like to know what the issue was and am still a bit concerned about it but I may just have to chalk it up to something being frozen solid. The engine compartment is very susceptible to being packed with snow/ice if driven in deep snow so maybe the lesson to take away here is to avoid it.
Thank you all for your help.
The comment about ice reminds me of an issue Dave Stevens posted about a while back; this one on an SOB but perhaps a similar issue with the connection on the transmission speed sensor?
Check engine light (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16390.msg104725#msg104725)
Where is the location for the speed sensor on the MD 3060 tranny?
Peter,
From memory (not at coach) there are two. I have replaced the one on the front driver's side of the transmission. Easy, as it is external to the transmission. One bolt and disconnect wire connector.
Brett
Indeed, we had a problem on the MD3060 on our 37' SOB PB that resulted from driving in blizzard conditions. Ice accumulated on a cable that connected to the bottom of the transmission. The weight of the ice pulled the plug from the transmission. The transmission went to "limp" mode. It operated properly in R, N, 1, and 2. It would not shift beyond 2. The error code indicated loss of speed sensor. I warmed the cable and connectors with a hair dryer. All worked well after I seated the plug properly.
My recollection is that the connection was near the bottom of the transmission somewhere near the output end. It was easy to find while lying on my back under the coach.
After that trip, I looked for a coach that would keep us safe in blizzard conditions in case we made another bonehead decision that put us in harm's way. We've been back to the same area in similar conditions in the Foretravel. We have the capacity to hunker down and wait for better weather.
DON'T DRIVE UNDER HAZARD CONDITIONS unless you are safer driving than you would be stopped!
Maybe this might help someone doing a search.
My transmission just started not shifting into D or R. Restarting it allowed me to get from N into D. After reading this old thread, I looked at things that might be allowing high idle speeds. I found, both of the 2 return springs had broken off the throttle lever and were hanging by only their other fixed ends on the block. Bending new ends, and reattaching seemed to have corrected my issue.
We have the same thing going on with our coach 1999 320 ,had new batteries installed and now cant get it to go in gear and light on the dash says level systems?
What's the engine RPM
Barbara. one or more of your slide pin lock sensors is not reporting that your pins are in place with the slides in and locked. There is a brain box on the ceiling of the front basement bay. In the lower corner of that box is a bypass switch. Turn that switch to the other position and although the Level System light is still on, you can put the coach into gear.
An inspection of the locking pins with the slides in will find if a sensor is bad or a pin(s) are not in the lock position. You do this with the slide bladder(s) still deflated (slide switch still on, yellow light on) and a ladder to see the top pins.
Engine rpm does not affect the level system light.
I don't know if this coach is new to you or not, but Rudy's comment reminds of a friend who, when he first bought his (used) coach, didn't hold the retract button/key long enough for the locking pins to do their job. He stopped as soon as the slide stopped moving. It needs just 2 or 3 seconds more for the pins to move.
Hi
I have had a similar problem with my coach ( 2000 featherlite vogue ) shifted from N to D or R and the flash happens and at the time I used my tractor to push the coach back into the garage . The next day I tried the N to d again and same thing happened ( no go ) so I put the slide all the way out then back in . Then all worked as it should and because of covid 19 we have not used the coach as much as we normally would so it has sat for a while . I did go through the electrical drawings and found the one wire that comes from the HWH main slide / leveling control panel that goes to the Allison 4060 . But after a ton of hours on the computer to find out if I could disconnect the wire or put a dead man switch on it to temporary turn it off but do not want to mess anything up . From all the research I have found that on newer coaches there is no wire to the transmission from the slide so this does not happen . Again all is working ok now but because the coach is now 21 years old I would like to have a bypass just incase I can not find the problem when on the road far far away
any ideas
cat 3406e Allisson 4060 1 slide
thanks dave
I have it all working now 8)
update
found the switch to bypass the flashing D and R for transmission , but in doing so disturbed the wiring that was in front of the switch , so I could not see it . all stopped working slide and air leveling not good . after lots of testing I found that the wire for the park brake connecter to be loose in the connecter and repaired it . now everything works as it should and I have labeled inside the control box so this does not happen to anyone again . I wish I could find a schematic for the coach . I did find that the HWH system was made for Mitchel coach but could not find a wire schematic for the control box but Foretravel schematic looks close
thanks dave
Contact FT they will send you them but you will need to pay for it.
I found a schematic on line from HWH and down loaded it that should help
thanks dave