We had a great Christmas week, I hope you all did the same. For us added bonus was 7 nights in our FTGV & it was great. Fridge did not work and I did not want to full around with, it was ok for this time around we got by with keeping ice in there. Even though i did not want to work on it while we were a way from home, I did try to get it working when we were hooked up to shore power, it kept making noise as I believe the liquid in there was trying to circulate, we were leveled but never got cold in there as it should or did back on 4th of July trip. It would never work on Gas, when i switched it to gas it stopped and red light came on.
So today I tried one more time with gas and it did not smell right and i saw smoke, shut it of right a way & took it a part & found the attached pieces in partially burned melted condition ... scared me. I took them out; i need to find these 2 parts and make a new cable. I will clean it all out and install the new parts and see if i can get it to work one more time but from now on i will be nervous and will probably check it every few hours ... if it works again... these over priced under engineered flimsy 3 way refrigerators scare me.
Please let me know if you know how and were i can get these parts ... I have not looked at the books yet .. it got late but I will tomorrow.
Also please let me know if anyone has experience with anyone in the Dallas Fort Worth area that can remove and install a residential electric only fridge? Do you think i can tackle it on my own ... I believe i can remove it out of there, even if i have to take it out in several pieces (chain / cut of saw) Question is how hard would be to install a residential fridge in the same space?
Thank you,
AL
Al,
I'm pretty sure the larger of the two is an igniter unit. That has been the only thing I have had to replace on my Dometic RM4804 in the past 12 years that I have owned it. Had to replace it twice at about $75/ea. Function is to produce the a high voltage spark. Failure mode was it would just stop producing a spark. I believe long term atmospheric moisture creates a internal shorting effect and drying it out will cause it to start working again short term. All the units I have seen had a white plastic exterior: Igniter / Re-Igniter Module for most Dometic Refrigerators : A.S.A.P. (http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/igniter-reigniter-module-for-most-dometic-refrigerators-p-82.html) click "larger image" towards bottom for explanation on how to check it.
The other item appears to be a "standard" automotive relay easily obtainable at any auto parts store.
The more concerning question is what was the root cause of the burned out parts. The parts themselves or something else shorting out and causing the wires or components to burnout due to excessive current?
Another possibility is did the flame "back-out" of the flue because its full of scale, rust or maybe mud daubers? There should be a shield to prevent this but it might have been removed by the PO and never replaced.
John,
Thanks for the link for Igniter Module. Yes the other part does appear to be a standard automotive relay I hope to find it at a local auto parts store. it is a Bosch 12v 0332 014 15 ..... (best i can read) I have no clue for the root cause ... excessive current I have to hunt for, not sure how to go by about it; as far as i can tell there should be none .. I have install a new converter (75amp upgraded from 45 amp) but the problem .. fridge was not working before i install the new converter ... never the less converter should not have anything to do with it. I also have the Progressive Industries EMSPT50C Surge Protector. But today when i was testing it I was not hooked to shore power so it was all from batteries.
I watched few tips and tricks on the youtube before i started to test it with gas today and took it a part ... I did not see any build up such as mud daubers or excessive rust, there is some rust but it did not appear concerning enough. I wonder i should replace the board too.
Thank you,
AL
We have removed the old Dometic refrigerator from our 93 U300, and the new residential one is supposed to be delivered today. I've got a friend of mine, who runs a mobile RV service, helping. Actually, I'm helping him, since he is younger and knows what he is doing. Anyway, I started taking the old unit out, and he finished up, then the two of us got it out of the coach via the door. After the new refrigerator arrives he will measure it and move the floor to where it has to be for the new refrigerator. I suspect that when that is done the two of us will wrestle the new unit in. If added muscle is needed he has a college-age son.
In our case I've never noticed any odor or discoloration from the old unit. It just wouldn't do anything. After 20 years, though, I wasn't too surprised that it died. We had planned on replacing the refrigerator with a residential unit when it died, no matter what coach we bought.
Al, your fire concern reminds me....I asked a senior professional motorhome mechanic/technician why they took all the Motorhomes out of the shop at night, was it a concern for diesel fires?
He said oh no, it is about refrigerator fires, especially some norcolds.
Just a trivia!
My 30 year tech buddy calls them notcolds
Bob
Is this the Residential Fridge most of you installed?
Whirlpool® 11 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator (WRT111SFAW White) | (http://www.whirlpool.com/-%5BWRT111SFAW%5D-1021176/WRT111SFAW/)
Thank you,
AL
Well it is a Whirpool but the door shape is slightly different (design changes) width and height are correct and depth is around the same. I paid $340 at Lowes in Nac' 2 yrs ago.
This will fit the standard opening .
John H
Looks like what we have. I've decided to go with a dedicated inverter for it, so I hunted for what the current draw is. After a couple of days of reading the installation guide, owner's guide, etc. I stood on my head this morning and found a service guide, clipped to the very bottom of the unit. According to that paper, this thing draws only about 1A. Even adding some for the light, does 2A @120VAC sound right? That sounds low to me, especially since the installation guide suggests a dedicated 15 or 12A circuit.
propane
This is the one I had Foretravel install about a month ago, and it is doing great. Bought at Lowe's for around $358.00. Fit the opening perfectly on our 1999 36ft. U295. David said it was one of the easiest installs he had done, very little modification needed. Got it in black.
10.3 Cu. Ft. Apartment Refrigerator | HRF10WNDWW (http://www.haier.com/us/products/kitchen/refrigerators/top-mount-refrigerators/hrf10wndww.shtml)
This is the one I put in my coach
Vissani, 24 in. W 10 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator in White, HMDR1030WE at (http://t.homedepot.com/p/Vissani-24-in-W-10-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-White-HMDR1030WE/203425195)
I like you can store a 1 gal milk jug on the door. In fact I like everything about it.
Like Davids the amp draw is very small. So I'm going to get a small pure sine wave inverter for it. The instruction say not to use it on a inverter, but they must mean a modified wave one as the pure sine wave is better than most power poles or a Generator.
I think my fridge must be sweet.. the dobbers/bee's love to move in.
Steel wool in the vent (furnace too) helps, just remember to remove it when the time comes. pc
I would not use steel wool to keep out flying pests-- too easy to get rust.
Any hardware store will have inexpensive nylon screen. Open the door and close the screen in. Then remove before using.
You can get Stainless Steel, Steel wool, Fire and Rust proof,
Yup, use stainless steel or more often bronze wool on the sailboat.
But, for the RV furnace and water heater, the nylon screen is a quick inexpensive way to keep flying housekeepers from setting up residence.
And other than keeping on the move, how do I keep them out of the engine compartment?
If this is a problem where you store, mothballs and peppermint oil are two possibilities.
There are also electronic "noise makers" that are supposed to discourage rodents, but in a frequency not heard by humans.
Those pesky mud daubers are everywhere here. I wonder how much peppermint oil I would need to treat about an acre. <grin>
Thank you all. I think i am going to remove the fridge and install a residential fridge too. I understand that a small Sine Wave Inverter would be a good addition too.