I've been traveling 75 N from Florida and am now at exit 134 in Tennessee. Last night I filled the 150 gal fuel cell and only had enough diesel winter treatment for 100 gal. I put it in and have driven until now and am down to 3/4 of a tank. The temp outside is 11 and for what ever reason, my generator keeps shutting down. We've been cruising along with fans, dash heat etc going and I know those things arent affecting the generator. The only thing different today is that the front overhead a/c is in operation using the heat strip to move heat forward to the windshield. The generator has always been a die hard and never had any issue with it. The oil was just changed a week ago but the inline feul filter has never been while I've owned it for 4 years.
Is there some specific filter needed or if I take it off and give it to a parts guy, will he give me what I need?
Im currently at an Advanced Auto store.
Could the generator be cutting out because of geling fuel?
Or the filter needing replacing?
Im also going to top off the fuel and buy some more winter fuel additive.
Thanks
I assume you have the 7.5KW Onan diesel generator? I have the same one.
There's a small "fault" trip button on the front panel of the generator that will pop out with any of the following: coolant high temp, low coolant level and low oil pressure.
Once the button pops out, the generator will not start(will not even crank) until it is reset by pressing it back in. The button normally sits flush.
If this button has not been tripping then I would have it say it is a fuel issue: no fuel, bubbles in fuel, or gelled due to the cold. I would have thought that a 2/3 solution would be enough to protect you at 11 degrees.
Another thing is normally sealed pipe joints (like on the fuel system) might leak a little air in overnight in very cold temperatures.
Keeping the tank full and adding more winter additive are good ideas.
If you continue to have problems give us more details on how long it runs and how much cranking is involve to get it restarted.
That is the generator we have. It does start after a bit of crank time then cuts out kinda like its not getting fuel. Its got a small in line tube filter and looks like its been about a quart low now that I've got things level.
If I take off the inline filter will fuel continue to run out?
Aslo there is a round bowl type gizmo with what looks like a drain plug on it. Should I take it apart? If so what might I find?
I cannot believe how cold it is outside!
I put in a 32 oz bottle of the red 911 deice additive and changed the inline fuel filter. I could hardly blow through the old and the new is really easy. I also drained some fuel out of the water / fuel filter plug and it flowed freely. Ican not get the gen to start now.....I assume because of opening the line. Would really like to get back on the road....any Iideas?
I had this same problem in recent single digit F temps.
The fuel lift pump would run and pull fuel up to the filter allowing the engine to start but the engine was not able to keep pulling the fuel up on its own once the lift pump shut off. I have an inline glass filter to witness this. I think it is the gelled fuel clogging up the fuel filter. I removed the filter and brought it inside for awhile and bringing it to room temperature which allowed the genset to run for awhile but once the cold fuel had been running through it for awhile it would shut down.
I am looking into fuel heater/ filter combinations. The big engine doesn't seem to be affected by this to the degree that the Isuzu genset is.
Carl,
I would keep the main engine running to make sure it stays warm and if the coolant gets temp starts to drop use something on the gas pedal to hold to about 1000 rpm fast idle.
I would crack the bleed screw a little and crank the engine. You should see fuel come out more when cranking and you should be able to see if there is air in the line.
Attached is an annotated picture of my generator. I don't have an inline fuel filter that you changed. There is a fuel pump that is 12 volts and will only show voltage when running (I think all the time) or cranking. The fuel filter is a spin on style. The bolt on the bottom is to check for water in the fuel. Both of these are below the fuel level in the tank so fuel will flow (even though the hose is attached up high) due to siphoning action. Another requirement to run is the shutdown solenoid. Unpowered, an internal spring will push the lever to the right. When cranking or running the solenoid is powered and should move to the left.
If you think the fuel might be gelled you could pour some hot tap (or kettle) water over the lines.
You could verify voltage to the electric fuel pump. There's a connector on the wire to it where it's easy to check. Should be voltage when cranking. Verify shutoff solenoid moves to left at same time.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if I keep trying to start it (it seems to want to stay going but still won't) will I burn something out? I'm trying to make the best use of day light hrs on the road. I was thinking of stopping at a Napa & changing my water separator filer.
The starter might be the only thing - it can be overheated and burned out. Unless you think you're going doing something productive by cranking (like work the air out of the lines when the fuel filter is changed) there's usually nothing gained by trying to start it after about 3 tries. You should let the starter rest a little between starts to allow the starter to cool and dissipate heat.
If you don't get it resolved by the end of the day, and assuming you are going to find hookups where you overnight, I would put a heater or a light bulb in that compartment and a towel in the bottom inlet opening under the actual generator during the night just to see if it is just gelling fuel.
Im about 30 miles from Richmond Tennessee and it looks like theres a Napa there. I thought I'd stop and see if they have that separator filter unit....and hope I dont damage anything. I'm not sure if the large nut that the drain plug goes through is to remove the metal container or if the whole container un screws. Still a long ways from home and have lost a lot of time.
The whole thing unscrews just like a standard car oil filter. Nut on bottom is just a drain.
Onan p/n 149-2106
Napa p/n 3392
Wix p/n 33392
I don't remember if I did anything to try to shutoff the fuel while changing it. I think I just used a catch tray under it while quickly changing it out. You might shape a piece of aluminum foil into a bowl to fit into the area under it. The bleed screw will need to be cracked about 1/2 a turn while cranking to get the air out. As soon as you see a steady flow (while cranking) close off the screw. Good luck.
A good way to get ride of the diesel smell on your hands is to wash them with soap, dry them, then "wash" your hands with just lotion and then wipe off excess with a paper towel.
Question: Would it make sense to run on a half tank of fuel and fill to half more often to maybe raise the fuel tank temperature to prevent the fuel from gelling to the genset?
Right now napa dont have the 3392. Ive not removed the old yet to know 100% if it will work.
Carl, have you tried running it using a fuel line out of a gallon jug of diesel. That would let you know for sure if it is gel fuel or not.
The fuel will get warmed by running the main engine via the return fuel line from the injector pump.
Did you see any dirt or water come out of the fuel filter earlier when you check it for flow? If not, there maybe no issue with the filter - but it's not conclusive.
Since the generator pick-up line in the tank is above the bottom (at the 1/3 or 1/4 mark) it is less likely to pick up dirt. Something to think about.
I've done all I can to be out in the cold with my arctic carhartts on. Have not tried out of a jug...fingers have been so painful. Nothing but fuel in the old filter. Let fuel fun out but still suspect air....bummer batteries are dead. Was hoping somehow to run down the road and maybe charge something somehow...but dont know what to do.
Carl,
So your main engine is running with good voltage but the house batteries (which the generator starter pulls from) are dead?
That means your battery isolator is not working. You can use the boost switch (with main engine running) to charge your house batteries but with them dead you will overload the alternator over time and risk burning it up. You can't afford that with your generator out too. You could regulate it with 5 minutes on and 5 minutes off (the boost switch). I would suggest you find a hookup somewhere and get your house batteries charged up and get everyone warmed up - must be getting cold without your furnace (since it runs on the house batteries too). I'll PM my phone number to you.
IMPORTANT QUESTION! The engine is running great & I believe the alternator is charging. I am wondering if we can stay in the coach over nite w/the main engine idling & the furance going if its ok? I REALLY don't want to shut the engine off. I'm afraid if I do every water line I have will be broke! My understanding is the furance runs on the main battery. We are 50 miles from Cincinnati - does anyone know of a place I can plug in (I don't need 50amp). HELP PLEASE!
Yes, you can run the engine all night but it's not recommended for the engine. Yes, truckers used to do this all the time but the engine manufactures advise against it now. IIRC, the engine gets too cold for proper combustion and carbon builds up. Your furnace (rear unit if you have two) will keep your water lines from freezing and it needs good battery voltage from the house batteries which you could provide if you leave the boost switch on and the engine idling. Much better if you can plug in somewhere and get your house batteries back up and turn on your engine block heater for restart in the morning. When you do get back on the road leave your boost switch on to keep your house batteries up with the alternator. And hopefully you can get your generator running too.
Do you need help finding an RV park? If I were you I would pick the next RV park I saw.
Carl - are you FMCA members? they have some back-in sites at the HQ in Cincinnati. Peter and Beth are in Cinci and hopefully will chime in as well
Thank you this is carls wife & he has had his hands full driving. We could use some help w/ in finding a place to plug in where its safe & not real pricey. Please let us know we are currently at exit 171 in Ky
No we do not have any memberships to anything
Carl, if you are at Walton, Ky there is a RV park called Oak Creek Campground at 13333 Oak Creek Rd, Walton,Ky Phone # 859-485-9131
That's what came up on my RV Parking.com app
Hope this helps
Carl,
There is an Elk Lodge with a campground )Lodge 274) Cold Spring KY - they say dry rv parking only - 859 441-1273 according to all stays - ALso, most Camping Worlds have the ability to get you electric - Indianapolis is nearest one to you unfortunately....
or try to stop at Wally World or FLyingJ/Pilot and beg for an outlet for an extension cord and 15-20 amps.
WalMart in Alexandria KY has ask to park - maybe call manager on duty 859 635-8800 and see if they could let you plug in an outlet in garage and snake cord under door - or maybe they have an outlet somewhere outside
Dont see any campgrounds open that far north on all stays
good luck, I would start looking hard for that plug, and asking for a favor from walmart, etc.
Carl,
Just now saw this. There is very little camping in the immediate area that's open. In an emergency, I can call the township folks and get permission for you to park on the street in front of my house which is 30 miles from Walton, KY due northeast on I-275. Call me: cell No. 513-484-9846...
BTW...All northern Indiana counties (north of Indianapolis) are under a state of emergency. No travel allowed. Ohio is okay. I-75 seems to be okay.
John - we found a place to plug in for the night. To get the most out of the electricty what position do we want the boost switch in to juice all of the batteries? Thanks for all your help we really appreciate it & are looking forward to pulling over!
Plugging in will charge your house batteries which need it the most.
Turn the boost switch on overnight to make sure your chassis batteries are topped off for cranking in the morning. And leave it on for cranking to help spin the engine faster. And then while driving, leave it on so your house batteries stay up.
Reminder with these cold temperatures you will want to have the engine block heater on all night.
charger on, boost on, that ties all the batteries together, house and chassis, and will charge overnight. Dont forget to put on your block heater when you stop, switch normally under bed. I have seem 70 amps going into batteries, you may trip the breaker at first if house and chassis are very dead. if so, leave boost off for a couple of hours while the house batteries gain charge, then put the boost switch "on" to tie in the chassis batteries and charge all overnight.
Ive had 4 posts now that have not made it. My 4g bars are full. Very frustrating...sorry.
Leave the big engine running and do not be concerned. The only issue you may have is dealing with the EPA (a few nights won't hurt anything).
Since the radiator draws air, open a box and tape up 2/3's of the radiator front. You could leave the box in place and not have any issues when you take off BTW.
Since you had an issue with the fuel filter needing replacing, it won't hurt to replace it again. As for the water separator, pull it apart and shake out the water and reinstall.
It was not too clear if the only time the Generator was shutting down was when you started driving?? I find the temps are not that cold (yet), sos it's likely not related to it being too cold. Add a gallon of HEAT to the fuel if you continue to be concerned (Type 1 diesel if you can find any helps).
When a fuel system jells up, you typically chug to a stop until things are thawed out and you are going nowhere till then! pc
Carl,
You may want to reconsider driving north tomorrow. Forecast is for dangerous wind with wind chills of down to -40F and drifting snow in Lower Michigan and Northern Ohio/Indiana. Your neck of the woods has significant snow on the ground.
Wow, so much great info. I hadnt realized that we moved into page 2 and with everything else going on I've already shut off the engine. We are plugged into 50amp with the boost switch on. All of our windows are iced over inside...thick. was traveling for hours and the dash defrost was barely warm...more like barely cool. We were scraping glass with credit cards but didnt really work. Water was froze when pulled in but now is running. Oh...btw, at 11pm we realized we were...correction. ..we're on top of a railroad track.
I dont know how to do what Tim mentioned with the generator and would like to know sometime in the a.m. if possible.
Thank each & everyone of you who have offered help, information & ideas. We'll see how tomorrow starts & I'll keep you posted.many many thanks
If you are on 50 amps, leave boost and engine heat on, turn up your heater, and rest easy. Newer coaches have inslated windows, but frost no big deal. sleep well.
engine heat on overnight!!!!! usually under bed
Carl you may have cured you initial problem with fuel filters, but now sounds like air in the fuel system crack the bleed screw while cranking make sure the fuel shut off solenoid is pulled all the way in when you get fuel close the screw, I have also had to crack a fuel line at an injector or 2 while cranking to get the air out. It's hard to get these little engines started once they are dead cold. Glow plugs (if equipped) may be bad if that is the case it will not start. If you have fuel at the injectors and the glow plugs are bad you may have to disconnect the wire to them and start on eather, if you do that please make sure you disconnect the power to the glow plugs otherwize engine damage may result.
Carl,
I have an RV pad with full hook-ups near Cincinnati in Sunman, IN that you could use for free if you need to hang out for a while until temps rise. Call at five 0 eight, four 5 four six 4 five four.
Thanks for the offer Brett. Tim, the 50 amp has been connected and the boost switch has been on all night with enngine block heater on as well. Bruce I sure appreciate your mechanical input but fear that it may be way over my head. Yes I do have glow plugs and when I put the separator/filter on and opened the drain plug fluid ran out like crazy. Other than being harder to blow through the old inline filter I dont believe I have a gel problem. Ive not gotten up yet or had coffee so dont have a report for this morning.
I do have a belt or 2 to tighten before I get started with the generator. Im REALLY hoping that it starts up after having a fully charged battery. That generator has been the one thing thats never failed and has run for hours & hours in 4 years. Im hoping the air is just gone otherwise we may just get on the road. We probably have a 7 hour drive at 60 mph to get home.
I do know though that every window we have is iced over, and to add to the list I believe ive got strep throat or some other painful chest burning. Home is sounding good.
Well, going for coffee now, then belts and then window scraping and the generator.
Will keep you posted.
Did any one mention the inline filter. Most over looked item which causes the gen to run rough and shut down. DAN
Yes Dan the inline filter in the gen compartment was replaced first.
Well I thought I'd turn the gen engine over before going out to get tools for tightening the belts......it barely had juice to crank and made no effort to fire. Not what I was hoping for. Crud!
Ok, so I've tightened the engine alternator belts and was excited to start this thing and hit the road. As mentioned I have not enough juice in the batteries to crank the gen so it will fire and NOW me engine isnt firing and the batteries are weakening. Not a good way to start the day.
Ideas?
A bit late here, but if you are ever in a situation again where it is necessary to idle the big engine for along period of time it is better if the engine is a a "high" idle, not the low 500-700RPM range.
Roland
Thanks Roland I'll keep that in mind. Much appreciated. Had I known that a 50 amp service would not help my malfunctioning system...I'd have never shut it off.
I've been on the phone with Carl and his main problem is he can't get his CAT 3208 to start. He did try to use the ether button and notice it helped but still no start. He later discovered this morning that the engine block heater was unplugged from the outlet but the good news is it does work and is starting to heat the block. The engine also cranks very slowly. Three weeks ago he serviced the batteries and cleaned the terminals. I suggested to him to verify the terminals are still tight.
While his is waiting for the block heater to do its thing can anyone think of anything else to check or do?
Also, can someone verify that the CAT 3208 does not have glow plugs?
(I told him no from my memory and usually ether and glow plugs don't go together)
His generator will not start either and it too cranks very slowly and is a secondary problem as he doesn't really need it to get home.
Really sounds like bad batteries or connections if charging overnight won't start either generator or engine.
As far as Cat 3208, he can call the Caterpillar RV Hotline with his engine serial number to see if he has glow plugs (doubtful), intake manifold heater, etc. 877 777-3126.
Well its been a couple hours now since the block heater was actually plugged in and turned on. It seems that the plugging in is an important part of the equation. Im going to buy or make a switch plate cover that will not allow the block heater to be turned on by accident. Then I will never have it unplugged again....not that I did unplug it to start with.
We installed a new start battery no more than 3 years ago but the alternator hasnt worked since we've owned it, so one was installed last month. I've thought it wasnt working but more so believe that it does. As I recall the 2 house batteries have no purshase dates on them...I believe its time to install a couple new ones. I want to install a new digital volt gage for each set of batteries as I have no confidence in the needle gage on the dash. All this will wait until Spring when things warm up.
I have had the block heater on for 2 solid hours now and it still has not started. It seems to turn over easier but hasnt started......it sounds like it wants to but then the cranking weakens and I let it set a while.
I did check battery connections and oddly a couple were not as tight as could have been. New ends will be installed in the Spring.
With the cold leaks this engine has plus all the running we've done, I poured 2 gallons of ELC mixed with distilled water into the radiator, added 1 qt of oil, tightened battery ends and am really ready to just go home.
My wife is now dealing with a headache and my 14 & 16 year old boys are all being patient.
I'm doing my best to remain optimistic & hopeful and keep a good attitude. I told my boys that I've learned a little patience and good attitude as well as reaching out for help, being thankful and having faith. Things could be worse and I know it but its time to get on the road. I was hoping to drive all day with no drain on the system with all the lights that will be on plus the dash blower and maybe overhead fans. However, it's now 2:30 and only a couple daytime hours remain.
I have to get home...the fun is gone & we are wearing down.
What else can I do to assure good connections or ???
I feel helpless and just need this thing to start.
We've got about 7 or 8 hours with optimal everything to get home and things are not optimal.
Im not even hopeful or concerned about the generator starting although it would be amazing. I just need the engine to start.
Should it really take this long for the block heater to warm this thing up?
I told my boys what a blessing the people are on this forum and how much you all give to help each other and make a difference.
Thank you very much
Any other ideas?
Carl, This has been and still is a real ordeal for you and your family. I am in ATL so I am no help.
All of this just highlights how important it is to do a thorough pretrip inspection so that at least when you leave you know that all systems are working, alternator, batteries, generator, fans and belts tires lights etc. Knowing that everything is ready to go at the start of a trip can ensure that you have a safe trip and can enjoy it with your family.
Don't mean to suggest Carl that you are in any way at fault for your present predicament.
Gary B
Do you have Coach-Net or any kind of "break-down" insurance coverage? I'd call a heavy duty wrecker out and get a jump start. You need to get that engine started, and it doesn't sound like your on-board systems are going to get the job done.
Just got off the phone with Carl and he still can't get his 3208 started:
-Block heater on for 3+ hours.
-Engine is spinning faster (compared to when block heater wasn't working) and with adequate speed (his estimation).
-On occasion, when the engine is first cranked it sounds like it fires on a cylinder or two but then nothing as it continues to crank over.
That last item makes me think the lifter pump might be weak and at 10 deg F might not work at all. I suggested he try to give the hand pump next to the fuel filters a try and see if it makes any difference. He talked to his mechanic back home by phone but its been a few hours since then. The mechanic only suggested to give the block heater some time and told him not to use ether. He's going to try to talk to him again.
He is at an RV park in Ohio somewhere between Dayton and Springfield. He doesn't have a toad nor road service.
John I don't know the temps you have now, But living in northern MN I know that three hours with you block heater is probably not long enough. Especially if your batteries get a little run down. I know how hard it is to sit and wait for the block heater to work. My block heater was unplugged when I got my FT. Must be something that people did that lived and traveled in warm climates. Be patient, let the block heater work and good luck. Mark
Sorry Carl, I saw John on the previous post and I got my names mixed up. Mark
Carl,
Look for the manual primer pump on the fuel filter housing. Unscrew it (counter clockwise). Pump in/out until very hard to pump. Screw in to secure. Try again. If for any reason the engine has lost its prime, this will get fuel to the injectors.
Assume you have called Caterpillar to find out if ether is OK: 877 777-3126. They will need your engine serial number to be able to look it up.
All it takes to start a diesel is fuel and engine turning over.
And, if house batteries are charged, use the boost switch while cranking.
Brett
I would not use ether as a starting fluid. When I was driving big rigs if I needed a "boost" to start I used WD40 for that additional boost. Worked for me. Seems like I remember squirting the WD40 aftertie filter, took a bit of dis-assemby but the CAT fired right up.
Roland
Yes, I asked Carl if he had any WD-40 on hand, he didn't. I tried calling about 3 hours ago and only got his voicemail. I told him not to call back if he was on the road. Hopefully that's what happened and he is heading home now.
This is Carls wife & I'm typing for him- several hrs ago while still day light John suggested I call my mechanic - so I did we checked both fuel filters & loosened the 1 w/the primer & after I primed it a few times & nothing came out I tightened it back up. Then he suggested I get back on the engine compartment & loosen the inlet on the fuel pump & I did. I then had my 16yo straddle the engine w/ a flash light to watch for leaks while I hand primed it. Allot of foam & air was in the line, after fliud appeared we tightened it back up. It was suggested that I turn the engine over & push my ether button a few times, it chugged & sputtered but would not start, & all this time my mechnic/neighbor stayed on the phone w/ me. He said at 1 point as it was nearing dark & a really long day of struggles that he felt as if I was 1 can of starting fluid away from getting on the road. About that time the man who owned the camp ground came looking for money - a huge $25 & I gave him the $31 I had on me. Holding tanks where filling & water levels & food was draining & attitudes where challenged. The park owner said there was a gas station about 3/4 mile down the road & maybe I could find a ride as it was getting dark. I felt this was a good time to ask if he was actually offering the ride , he didn't look real excited but said he could run me up there. His Park was full of what appeared to be very low income people & I think he felt at first I was a slacker looking for a hand out after talking awhile that was not the case & took me to 2 places before we found starter fluid. I didn't use his water or dump & was only there for electrify & told him if I was there any longer i'd find more $ for him. The day has been full of allot of conversations w/ God, tested faith, & alot of hopefulness. ... and now it's dark out. I called my neighbor back & he directed me on how to use the starter fluid while someone cranked the engine it was very uncomfortable but I trust this guy w/my life. My wife cranked the engine while I sprayed starter fluid & she let off the key & I kept it running w/ short burst of starter fluid. After a few s seconds it was idling on its own & to think it may have started much earlier in the day.
Oh by the way, I found out after about 5 hrs that there's a chance my block heater only worked for a very sorry time in the beginning because it was cold. .... my friend stayed on the line as I locked up my bays & put away tools & asked if I wanted to try the generator. Now that I had starter fluid I was ready to take on the world. He suggested I crank it&give it s very slight spray of fluid when I mentioned i have to let the glow plugs warm up he told me to stop! That it would blow up so we abandoned that idea. So we are finally on the road! ! As I pulled out of the park I tooted my horn & something felt off but couldn't put my finger on it. As we turned left towards the Highway I could feel something pulling to the right & all I could think of was that I had a flat tire. I respect these breaks because I've heard they can over heat & catch fire & all though we are all very tired & beat up & want to go home I have to make sure we are 100% safe . We crossed the Highway & I showed my wife how hard it was turning to the right do we pulled into a large dark parking lot. I checked the tire pressure & all was good & I was thankful. I did a little test w/ the break off shifting from drive to neutral to reverse & back & it didn't seem to roll freely. As u may know from previous posts every part of my rear breaks are new. So I knew it was not those. I called my friend & he told me what tools to get out of the tool box & to bundle up. I crawled under the front end w/ the engine still running & the air break on & he proceed to walk me thru completely adjusting the front slack adjusters & after about 1 hr of laying on the cold ice covered pavement w/a cell phone to 1 ear, a flash light in 1 hand & tools in the other the operation was a success. We've now been on the road for 1 hr & everything is looking pretty good (not prefect) but we are heading home. It's been a very trying time these past few days. I've questioned to myself weather my wife &I would get into a fight about her wanting to sell the couch , I've even thought to myself about selling it a time or two. It's really an excellant coach and is never failed is before and last night's conditions of -42 windchill was totally extreme I've learned allot about myself &c the coach it needs a little attention here & there but I just can't see not having it & it doesn't owe me a dime I think we've done well as a family in dealing with the whole experience & will be tighter because of it we've added to the list of must haves in the tool box & are looking to get home safely. I can not express how thankful I am for each & everyone of you near & far - you are all amazing people & I'm so very greatful. That's all for now & thanks again
Ps I've not seen much or heard much of Dave Head can someone please let me know that things are week with him - love u guys
Carl,
You & your family have survived the worst temperature conditions any of us on this forum ever have with our coaches. I wasn't much help, but if you would have called me, the least I would have done is to provide parking and a place to stay the night in our home on a very very cold windy night.
Now...I am going to suggest to you that you need to improve upon your coach exercise program so this stuff does not happen again. Driving the coach about once a month or even every 6 weeks enables you to check on things and ensure all parts that require lubricant to work or gaskets to keep fluids in place do what they are supposed to do. If you are interested I'd me more than glad to send you a write-up of my coach exercise program.
All the best and I hope you made it home safe and sound. I know the weather is still pretty bad tonight, so I hope you guys did not encounter any dangerous winds or more extreme cold.
You're more adventureous than I ever would be because i'm too chicken to drive the coach to FL during the winter months when the weather is really bad.
Stay well.
At those temps the normal batteries have volts but no amps. At least that's my understanding. My old bluebirds from the 80's had battery heating plates attached to all the batteries.
Batteries can freeze as far as I am aware.
Bob
Peter - I certainly don't want you to feel offended having made the offer, I believe that I did not see your post until we had well passed your place (or maybe even very early this morning) & really appreciate you & your offer. We are still heading North coming up to Flint mi right now & still have away to go. We've seen some of the worse icey roads I've ever seen in my life & we've only made it this far because I don't know any better! I would certainly like u to send over your exercise program my email is carlsandel@charter.net. Thanks again &much appreciated!
Just pulled in the drive at home. 8 hours and never needed a potty or pull over break. Drove about 55 miles an hour. Off to bed now, ya'll have a great day!
They even make battery blankets. They are actually like pads. You can put styrofoam around your battery, cut to shape, to keep help keep the batteries heat inside them. But battery blankets are not that expensive. Kind of like a heating pad, but they also have insulating qualities without being plugged in.
But it sounds like the generators glow plugs might be bad. You can check them with a volt ohm meter, using the resistance coil. And if you do have glow plugs, you do want to avoid starting fluid ether at all costs!!! You also can check the chassis engine block heater the same way. Block heaters do burn out.
These ultra cold winter temperatures really test, not just our bodies and minds, but also our engines. One of the reasons that I run synthetic lubrications. Their pour point is so much lower than dino 15W-45. And you can pick up Rotella T6 in gallon jugs at any Walmart.
Carl, glad you safely made it home! Quite a adventure!
I had the problem last year;
Turned out the hose from the Diesel tank to the Genset was cracked, and admitting air;
Required replacing of that hose; glad the FT at the plant was right there to do it.
RRE
Ah! Carl is home at last! I'm pleased you made it without physical damage to people and coach. I hope the emotional damage is minimal. You have some great stories to tell!
I agree with recommendations to exercise the coach. I found that our alternator had failed when I started the coach for an exercise run. That allowed me to get it fixed before a "real" trip.
I try to make sure our coach moves at least every 30 days. For me, an exercise run is about 20-25 miles. I have to drive about six miles to get to a highway, which allows the coach to warm nicely at an easy pace. On the highway, I generally spend a bit of time at 60-75 mph, depending on the speed limit. That gets everything up to operating temperature. I honk horns, exercise all mirror adjusters, run furnaces, run generator, run roof air conditioners, run dash air conditioner, exercise roof vents, run some water at each sink, flush toilet, operate propane water heater, look for drips and leaks, etc.
Peter's list will probably be comprehensive.
Best wishes for a more enjoyable trip next time.
Carl, glad you made it home safe and sound. Someday you will look back at it and laugh, I hope that day is soon. Don't give up on the rig, if it had been your car, you wouldn't get rid of it would you? Lets face it, the learning experience is worth something, once you are out of the dangerous situation. If nothing else, others like myself with limited experience will be able to take the warning example which you have provided. First on my list is Coach Net or something similar. I don't like crawling around on the ground in those conditions. I would rather pay someone else to if possible.
Larry
The use you survived is the extreme test of preparedness and skill.
Not easy to below zero Rv. Perfect setup and parts needed for safety. Sometimes the only way to know is to do it. Maybe a local winter trip would be safer?
Not easy to Rv on a tight budget either so to make it home was an good thing.
Hats off. Good job.