Current temperature is 64 degrees, winds 20 gust to 30. I pumped the prime quite a bit, and didn't notice any real difference. The engine lit fairly quickly, though. Unfortunately, the STOP ENGINE and CHECK ENGINE lights came back on very quickly, and didn't go off within a few seconds, so I shut down. What do I do now?
While I'm waiting for an answer, I'm going to unplug from the house and disconnect the batteries in preparation for installing the new battery chargers. Sure hope nothing blows away.
Is there a blink code in the stop engine light. I had one on my 99 but yours is older and may not have one but it sent the fault so you might be able to read one.
None that I saw. Both lights came on with key on, then went out with engine start, and came on again a few seconds later and stayed on for a few seconds. I shut down at that point. Did it twice, so I decided I didn't have enough money for a new engine and stopped.
The old chargers are now out, and I have given the mandatory blood. Now to put the new ones in.
There is a button under my dash with the key on that will allow the lights to blink.
The lights came on because the coolant is low after you changed the block heater.
Open your dash top, turn on the switch for engine codes and let us know what number code the little light bulb blinks to make sure.
Pierce
Thanks, Pierce. I figured you would have the answer. Right now there is no electricity anywhere in the coach since all batteries are disconnected. Tomorrow I'll put the new chargers in and hook everything up again and see what happens.
I added a gallon of antifreeze and probably could add more. Perhaps the coolant was down farther than I thought, since I thought I only lost about a gallon.
There is a sensor on the black coolant reservoir tank that will trigger the outshouting if it is exposed, (low coolant). When you open the dashtop, you will see two switches mounted a couple of inches apart at the bottom. As I remember, one is labeled engine and the other is for the transmission. There is a small lightbulb located several inches away. With the key on and the switch for the engine in the on position, the light bulb will start blinking. Just count the blinks. Low coolant is 43 so the light will blink four times and then three.
I made a PDF of the engine codes for the DDEC-II. Print it and take it with you for reference. If you had been driving, the lights (if the steering wheel was not blocking your vision, terrible design) would start blinking, the engine would go to partial power and after 30 seconds, it would shut off. There is an "OVERRIDE" switch on the panel with the Jake, side lights, etc. DON'T USE IT! Detroit tried to make the engine absolutely idiot proof but there are owners who will loose the big hydraulic pump belt, overheat the engine and then use the override switch to keep driving. It can be a $20,000 mistake if the engine is badly damaged.
The 8 rib belt back there is the most important spare to have with you. Only takes seconds to install and will save your bacon if the fitted belt fails. Wet sleeved engines with O rings like the Detroit 6V-92TA are more susceptible to damage from overheating so this is very important.
Pierce
Thanks, Pierce. Tomorrow I'll install the two new battery chargers and hook the batteries back up. Then I'll see what's what with this. I wonder what a proper code reader would run me. If I have to go down to Buffalo for more antifreeze I'll check.
From my experience sounds like low coolant especially since you had to drain some to install the block heater. You should be able to see the coolant level and make sure it is above the sensor
David,
Code reader would be nice but the bulbs work well. The codes are stored in the computer and stay there with the latest event showing up first when you flip the switch. The shop tool can wipe the memory and/or add more fuel/power.
I have a OBD II reader and will see if one of my plug adapters might fit the U300. The real deal with reprogramming capability costs around $2500.
Pierce
David,
I second the instructions Pierce gave you. I have the same engine.
I installed a new block heater a couple of weeks ago and had to add about a gallon and a half of coolant. I filled it till coolant spilled over the lip of the filler tube on the black tank. Also make sure the reservoir is filled up to the cold level. Make sure the clamps around the big hoses on the water pump on the engine are tight and the radiator cap is snug. From other posts I learned that the cold can create leaks and tightening the clamps will usually stop them. I had a small leak develop from loose clamps on a recent trip to Nacogdoches where it got really cold a couple of nights.
I also noticed that if I use the block heater for several hours or overnight, when I start up the check engine light stays on longer than normal but goes away after a minute or so. Make sure the block heater is off before starting the engine. I burned the other one up by starting with the block heater on.
Hope this helps,
Jerry aka Murph
Thanks, guys. Pierce, that's way out of my price range! That white plastic "jug" on the left side of the engine compartment, corresponding to the black metal box on the right side, sure looks like a coolant reservoir or overflow tank. It looks absolutely clean, so I'm wondering if this coach has always been run a bit low on coolant. At any rate, tomorrow I'll add more to the black tank until it gets clear to the top and see what happens. Of course I still have to get the battery chargers installed and all the cables hooked up first.
David,
Plugged my OBD I & II reader in today but it can't retrieve any info. There is a Prevost member that has a bluetooth module that sends everything to an iPad or Droid but he wants plenty for it. Just like Silverleaf. The same bluetooth module for domestic/foreign vehicles is only about $12 so will have to work on the wiring. A 9 pin DDEC to OBD II adapter is also very inexpensive. Just have to figure the wiring to make it work. Lots of apps available from free to $9.99 at Apple's app store. Sure it is the same for Droids.
A good way to check fuel pressure for filter blockage or system leakdown is to install a fuel pressure gauge on the downstream/discharge side of the secondary fuel filter. The primary filter is on the suction side of the pump so I installed one there like on a previous post. As Dave M said, mechanical or DDEC Detroits should see 65 psi coming out of the secondary filter. Ours can sit days and we still have 30 psi or so. Attached is a photo of the installation. As you can see, it's no big thing to install.
I have also been thinking about a fuel cooler but just the opposite of the one Brett described. This would go on the way to the engine as the ECM (computer) is cooled by fuel going through it. In summer with a low fuel tank, the fuel heading to the engine is more than warm. Since most big rigs have their tanks outside, ours runs a lot warmer than they do. The fuel in a Detroit 2 cycle is all inside cylinder head passages unlike our 4 cycle brothers. Gets really hot before it heads back to the tank.
Pierce