This afternoon I finally finished up installing the two new battery chargers, and after a bit of a break (to thaw me out and let the furnaces do their thing) I checked the codes. I got all sorts of numbers, but none of them referenced low coolant. One did reference low engine oil, so I went back and checked the dipstick. Full. All batteries were disconnected from Sunday afternoon to this afternoon, nearly 48 hours, so I wonder if that might affect things?
It looks like I won't be able to do much outside the rest of this week due to weather, but I don't mind going out for a bit at a time, or working inside the coach, if anyone has any ideas.
While it was running did the oil pressure guage show oil pressure? mMaybe a wire got disconnected or pulled off while you were changing the block heater
Oil pressure showed normal. I'm wondering if it is some sort of electrical issue rather than a real problem. The temperature is supposed to be up in the 40's tomorrow, with the wind about the same number, but I'm going to try to go poke around a bit and see what I can see. By Sunday and Monday it is supposed to be in the 50's, so I can actually start the big engine then.
When I watch the light blink to get the trouble code, is the first code I see the oldest fault or the newest? Is there a way I can clear the codes myself, or is that something that only those with the expensive tools can do?
David,
Was that code for maybe for low engine oil pressure?
The engine will shut down for only 3 or 4 conditions: Low coolant, low oil pressure, or high oil temperature. On yours, a possible 4th is high coolant temperature (it isn't on my '91 but someone once told me they added it on later units so maybe your has it for high coolant temp too).
I did have my engine oil pressure sensor (the one used for the DDEC) go out when the belt for my air conditioning compressor was too loose and the belt bounced and abraded away the plastic housing of the oil pressure sensor. It went out intermittently and caused random shutdowns over the course of a few hours.
The DDEC II codes with "explanation of abbreviations/terms" and "Automatic Emergency Shutdown Information" should be in your black 3 ring binder. A must read if you haven't already.
John, is this nice "codes" feature on the cummins?
Is your engine electronic control? If not, no. If yes, the codes are there but I don't know if Cummins has a way to read them without a code reader or VMS. Maybe someone else will chime in...(your coach manual has a lot of information and should cover this if your engine has the features)
John, mechanical 8.3.. no codes, no joy.. :-\
After adding four gallons of antifreeze and water I got the engine to start and stay running. The temperature outside is in the upper 40's with the wind in the upper 20's. Since there was no coolant around the new block heater element I couldn't just use that for a couple of hours, but the engine did start and stay running. After I shut down I'll see how much more coolant I need to add. So far I haven't seen any evidence that coolant has ever been in the overflow tank. Maybe I should dump some in there and see what happens.
David, Yes, you need coolant in the overflow tank. As engine cools vacuum will pull additional coolant into the engine from the tank.
Gary B
Thanks, Gary. That's what I thought. I just came in to warm up with a cup of coffee, and then I'll go back out and put some in that tank. It looks absolutely clean, almost like it has never had anything in it.
David, I had just the opposite of that . Overflow tank was half full and black " expansion "
Tank was empty. Added 1 and a half gallons of water and my " stop eng " light went off.
All was good after that
Richard B
I can't actually add to the overflow tank because it is too high up. Guess I'll either try an old piece of hose or wait.
David,
You got me curious... so guess what I looked and I am in the same boat. Need coolant!
I have one of thoes hand crank pumps for the overflow. Thanks!
Richard,
Check the tube to the overflow and also the radiator cap if you haven't. If there are any cracks in the tube it won't pull coolant back in as needed, so the overflow level might not change. I think it was Barry B. who had a problem with the radiator cap not working properly in this respect as well.
Good time to check the radiator cap and tubing on the AquaHot if you have one as well. Both of ours needed to be replaced a little over a year ago for that problem.
Michelle, thanks for the reminder. I wonder if the radiator cap is a standard one or a special critter.
Michelle, thanks for the heads up on the hose. Will look in the morning. The cap is fine on the one on the aqua hot as well as the expansion tank.
Good to " hear " you on the forums again.
Richard B