Several folks on this forum have had trouble with their ignition solenoid inside the dashboard recently. My solenoid started getting hot and failing without warning, then suddenly working again, perhaps after it cooled down or something. I searched at several parts stores and finally found what appears to be a suitable replacement at Advance Auto Parts. It's a BWD Select S63 relay and I believe the Advance Auto Parts item number is: 18970119 if I'm reading my receipt correctly. The solenoid costs $20 plus sales tax and has a limited lifetime warranty, whatever that means. I just now installed and tested it. I can report back later on how it works if anyone cares. Follow the manufacturer's wiring instructions included with the new solenoid because there's one terminal you're not supposed to use. I tested all the wires connected to my old solenoid to identify what device(s) each wire powered. I found the DDEC computer wire and connected it directly to the small terminal on the solenoid with the ignition switch wire so the engine won't die when the solenoid quits. I've been driving that way for a long time now with no problems. Hope this information helps someone... Feel free to contact me directly if you need help and I'll talk you through it.
Scott:
(615) 482-7650
I went thru this a couple of years ago and I can only tell you that if the solenoid is not a heavy duty one, you will be replacing it again. These solenoids handle a heavy load and need to be designed to handle it. Hope you have a good one! There is a previous post and associated thread on this some time mid to late last year. Hope you have a good one!! ---- Fritz
My old solenoid wasn't working reliably and this new one only cost $20 with a lifetime warranty. If this new one continues to work I'll be okay. If it quits and they honor the warranty I'll be okay. If they don't honor the warranty I'm out a whopping $20 :-(
Scott,
I replaced my dash solenoid last week due to the same symptoms. The original one was 80 amps and I bought another one from FOT for a spare when I was there a couple of weeks ago for about $30. I believe the BWD Select S63 is only 30 amps. It may not be heavy duty and last very long under our circumstances as Fritz said.
I replaced my old one with a 200 amp Cole-Hersee as recommended by Pierce Stewart and others. From O'reilley auto parts it cost about $70 but is heavy duty and uses silver tungsten carbide contacts. It has four posts and fits exactly where the old was. I also used the same solenoid for the boost and the remote start which I replaced last summer. So far so good.
Jerry aka Murph
Scott,
I spent a few minutes on BWD's website, but could not answer the two critical questions for selecting an ignition solenoid:
Amp rating.
Continuous duty, not intermittent duty (like for starter solenoid function).
If you find answers to those two questions, that will give you a good idea as to its functionality for your purpose.
I'm in an unfamiliar area and wasn't able to find an O'Reilly Auto Parts store here yet. Even if this new solenoid only works temporarily it's worth $20 for now. I was swapping the defroster and wiper wires from the load side of the old solenoid to the line side every time I started the engine. I didn't bother to swap it back while I was in the grocery store yesterday and the air dryer heater came on while the engine wasn't running due to the cold weather. It ran the cranking battery down so low the engine wouldn't start so I snarfed some of the groceries I just bought while waiting for the generator to charge the battery... Then I looked for a new solenoid again with determination and found this one. ;D
best price I've found on the Cole Hersee is Ryder Fleet products, about 42 bucks
I installed a Blue Sea Solenoid, very expensive but should last forever. The ignition solenoid is to important to go with a model not really designed for continuous duty. Just my 2 cents.
The $20 solenoid has held up so far, only 60 miles ...but hey that's only about 33 cents per mile if it dies right now. ;D
...and note that I moved the DDEC computer to the ignition switch so the engine won't die when the solenoid does, so I'll just have to pull over and move the wires to the line side of the solenoid to get the wipers, defroster, turn signals, and other stuff back until I find another solenoid.
@ $20.00 a pop, why not carry a spare
Be careful running the Engine ECM off the ignition switch. That extra load could easily overheat the ignition switch. THAT is why they used the ignition solenoid in the first place.
Please, get a constant duty solenoid of adequate (actually MORE Than adequate) amp rating and wire it as OE.
Brett
Was having intermittent power losses way back in 2011. The Blue sea 9012 250-amp ignition solenoid sure solved my electrical problems. Found it very reasonably priced on line at a marine store in the middle of Tennessee. You want to check around cause they sure are pricey.
I've already driven halfway across the country with the DDEC connected directly to the ignition switch. I'm never gonna put it back on the solenoid. I don't ever want the engine to die in traffic again. It's too dangerous. The DDEC computer is the only device other than the solenoid that's being powered by the ignition switch. If the ignition switch dies it'll give me an excuse to buy two new switches that are keyed alike so my car and coach will have the same key. :) The ignition switch occasionally didn't work when I first got the coach. The previous owner said it was due to lack of use. Apparently he was correct because it's very reliable now that I use it every few days.
Another nice modification is to get a battery cable from a lawn tractor or other small engine with electric start and connect all the wires from one side of the solenoid to one end of the cable with a bolt and nut, wrap it up with electrical tape well, and connect the other end of the cable to the solenoid. Do the same thing to the wires on the other side of the solenoid. This makes it super easy/safe to swap the one big cable to the other side of the solenoid in no time if the solenoid fails... No need to carry a spare solenoid with you. :)
Scott, Looks like installing the right solenoid would be much less trouble than swapping cables, taping cable ends , rewiring etc. But.... what ever is easiest.
Gary B
Why all of the messing around, why not just do it right the first time?? ---- Fritz
saved $20.00 with cable swapping, well worth it ??????
why spend $$$$
Bill,
No idea the amp draw of the engine computer (or the voltage drop is causes across the ignition switch).
Would be a very expensive "saving" if the engine computer goes out because of low voltage!
Blue sea Solenoid at wholesalemarine.com$156.89. (http://wholesalemarine.com$156.89.)
Amen...sensitive device
Wow, I'm so sorry I even posted this. I frequently feel this way after trying to share information on this site. It's not like I planned to use a cheap solenoid, it's the only one I could find at the time. It's working great so far. The computer works fine on the ignition switch and has for thousands of miles now. When it was on the bad solenoid it frequently ran at low voltages and didn't get damaged. I can't see how the ignition switch will hurt the computer if it survived running on the bad solenoid. I'm definitely not putting the computer back on the solenoid because it's dangerous to have the engine die in traffic when the solenoid quits, which it eventually will no matter how expensive the solenoid is. I wish I could figure out how to remove this entire thread. I was just trying to help someone in a bind who might be able to find an Advance Auto Parts store when their solenoid quits. I posted this from firsthand experience and waited until I was sure it worked before posting. I didn't speculate on how long the solenoid would last or if the computer would be damaged or any other stuff that I have no way of knowing about.
Scott, In offering my opinion I was trying to be helpful as were others who commented. You are not the only one who at times feels that comments are directed to them that they don't believe are appropriate. Relax, learn from others, no one here is trying to give you a bad time.
Gary B
Scott,
I think most of the negative comments are because of concern that you WILL encounter failures by using the wrong components.
Go to this link: L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A)
As posted above, not inexpensive, but rated for 1 MILLION cycles and up to 450 amp continuous rating (less if smaller gauge wire used). Never heard of one of these failing in the many years they have been used.
Others have posted higher amp rated, constant duty solenoids with better contact material than the OE ones for much less $$ than the Blue Sea.
Lots of important systems run off that ignition solenoid-- would hate for you to be driving in inclimate weather and have the windshield wipers and defroster cut off.
Sometimes "reinventing the wheel" is reasonable. Other times, listening to the sage advice of the many who have gone before you is more reasonable.
Brett
Just exactly where is the solenoid in question on a 99 320 40ft? Thanks jc
Scott,
I ended up with four cole her see spares - bought two to have as spares, forgot I did it and bought to more. If you would like one for free let me know where to ship it and I can send it out -
Tim
Hey Tim.
I'll pay for one.
Best, paul
Hi Scott,
I hope you keep posting. I enjoy everyones thoughts. I do not always agree, who does? I'm sure we learn something from what you, and others, post. I hope to hear from you soon.
Raymond
I'm not sorry you posted it. It's a great idea for getting out of a jam. When I had my "no-start" issue I am pretty sure it was not the solenoid under the dash that was the problem (because I had jumpered it to no effect) but having your info in the back of my mind might solve a future problem.
I am kicking around the idea of a better solenoid; the Blue Sea version's price sorta makes me gasp but if the original goes south then you can't just throw $150 under the coach and have that fix it.
Craig
JC,
Behind the panel in front of the passenger seat at the bottom.
And mine was definately on the way out. Gauges doing all sorts of weird stuff, headlights messing up, starting intermittent, even stalled a couple times. But I did some real serious searching because of the price, to find one at a good price. If I remember correctly, I only paid $64, plus what ever the shipping was. Was a small marina somewhere down in Tennessee, and he only had a couple left and had no one demanding them. It doesn't happen often, but once in a while I fall into the mud and come out looking like gold. If it lasts like they claim, I will be extremely happy!! Like usual, now I'm thinking I should have grabbed all of them.
What is the difference between the two Blue Sea Systems 9012 Solenoid Switch L-Series 12-24V on this page:
Amazon.com: Blue Sea Solenoid (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Blue%20Sea%20Solenoid)
best, paul
Vendor's selling price
Amazon.com: Online Shopping for Electronics, Apparel, Computers, Books, DVDs & (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords) =Solenoid%20Switch%20L-Series%2012-24V%20
Price. Looked like the same part number on the three I looked at.
Right. I bought the lower cost one.
No s&h. And no state tax.
best, paul
You guys were correct. The Advance Auto Parts solenoid now won't close. I searched and found an O'Reilly Auto Parts store in my area and ordered the Cole Hersee solenoid. None of the stores have one in stock but they'll get one for me tomorrow. I'll go fight with Advance Auto Parts to get a refund for the BWD solenoid. So to be clear to anyone reading this, jumper your old solenoid temporarily and order the correct new solenoid. You probably won't be able to find a suitable solenoid in stock anywhere, even at O'Reilly. If you're on the road when your solenoid dies you'll have to order the solenoid and have it shipped to an O'Reilly store a couple of days down the road in the direction you're going. Here's the part I ordered, but I haven't actually got the solenoid yet so obviously I haven't tested it:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CH00/24213/N0791.oap?ck=Search_solenoid_N0791_-1_2259&keyword=solenoid&pt=N0791&ppt=C0218 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CH00/24213/N0791.oap?ck=Search_solenoid_N0791_-1_2259&keyword=solenoid&pt=N0791&ppt=C0218)
Scott,
That one will work just fine.
When I was in NAC, I bought two solenoids from FOT. They were inexpensive at about $30ea, but to my surprise, they were not Cole Hersee but some generic that didn't have any manufacturer's name stamped on them... Haven't installed them yet, but I expect they will work. Having the occasional glitch with the boost switch and recently the speedo didn't work on one of our travel legs (didn't notice for the longest time because it is easier to glance at my VMSPC), but on the next, it did... at least I have something to swap in to try next time.
Don
Would this be the correct solenoid for my 97 U320? Is 200 Amp enough?
Scott,
I'm glad you posted this thread...I'm still pretty new at this and I didn't know this solenoid could cause the problems mentioned in this thread. I'm not convinced it will solve in intermittent wacky tack problem but it can't hurt to give it a try. And this sounds like a part I would like to have a spare of anyway. So thanks! ^.^d
Douglas,
I would be surprised if your draw by items that only run with the ignition on exceed 200 amps.
But, were the 200 amp solenoid to show signs of pitting or failure, or you just want to insure this is not a failure potential, go with the Blue Sea one many of us have used-- it is rated FAR higher and has a 1 million cycle life expectancy.
Brett
When I went to the parts counter at FT was told they no longer carry the 200A solenoid. One advantage to the Blue Seas unit is probably reduced holding current. The original solenoid seems to run pretty hot.
Doug ---- When my tach started doing wacky things, I started looking for a tach sensor. Before I got ready to order one , other instruments started going wacky. At one point I was flying blind down the highway because they all went wacky. I connected a couple of voltmeters at different spots and was able to pinpoint the ignition solenoid. I wouldn't tell you to replace it now, but I sure would recommend that you obtain a new solenoid and be ready . Have a great day ---- Fritz
If your dashboard voltmeter reads suspiciously low even when your ignition solenoid is jumpered out, clean the contacts on the back of your voltmeter and suddenly you've got a nice high voltage reading again... which I discovered while messing with this stuff the other day.
All this talk about failing ignition solenoids got me feeling REAL nervous. Been watching for a good price on Blue Sea 9012 - think I found it. Just pulled the trigger:
Blue Sea Systems 12 24 Volt L Series Solenoid Switch 9012 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-12-24-Volt-L-Series-Solenoid-Switch-9012-/221339737967)
Once it arrives and is installed, I figure it's "One less thing to worry about..."
I have a clamp on ac/dc ammeter and highly recommend carrying one in the toolbox for times like these. Better to know the actual current draw than guess.
By the way, most less expensive clamp on ammeters are ac only in measuring clamp on amps, but still called ac/dc because they measure ac and dc volts and amps with the wired probes.