I arrived at the campsite and found that the slide will not extend. The amber light flashes but does not stop.
The seal looks at least partially deflated, although I never heard it deflate. The pics below show the slide from the inside, with the pleated curtain pulled back.
Does this seal look fully or partially deflated? I'm pretty sure it was in this position while driving the one hour to the campground. There was a bit more air noise than I remember.
Any ideas on how to get the slide to extend? The leveling system is working normally. I tried the procedure of shutting off the ignition and restarting, however that didn't help.
Not sure about an 03 but on an 02 the 12v pump must provide the air pressure to operate the Venturi that puts a slight vacuum on the seal. When the system senses that vacuum it allows the room to move.
Thanks Rick (or Rhonda.) Hmmm, I believe the 12 volt pump is working because the coach has air pressure as the leveling system is working. But I can't get the bladder inflated and if it is fully deflated, the amber light won't get to solid, allowing the slide to move.
I suppose the biggest concern right now would be getting the bladder inflated.
Jennifer, you should find an auxiliary 12 volt compressor in bay D3 (3rd bay from front on driver's side), see photo1 attached. I believe it must be working and it is what inflates and deflates the slide seal bladder. When you turn the key Off on the slide control, this compressor should inflate the slide seal. If you don't have a gauge near that pump it may be difficult to know if that compressor is working, but you should be able to hear it easily if the coach engine is off.
If this compressor is not working, it is protected by an in-line fuse (photo2) and a circuit breaker (photo3). The circuit breaker is located at the front edge of a large square carpeted panel in the back of the same bay. It is held in place by 3 wing nuts.
Your statement that the amber light never stops blinking makes me think the aux compressor is not working. In '03 vacuum required to deflate the seal is "sensed" rather than timed. So if it does not sense a good vacuum, the light will keep blinking.
Air pressure on your dash gauges does not mean there is pressure to inflate or deflate the slide seal.
Well maybe this will help, of course it might be something else entirely. Please let us know what you eventually find.
Also I think that year looks for vacuum so you can trick the slide to go out or in by closing off the airline. You can even use a pliers if you can not find the valve.
Probably stupid questions - have you leveled the coach? You might try to reset the HWH controller for leveling pushing the Cancel button on the control pad or Pushing the Rocker Switch that says HWH Reset. Trans in Neutral? FWIW It's probably something simple. Good Luck. :)
I have recycled the bladder before when I got no proper response from that amber light. Aired it back up by turning it off...then turned it back on and all was well. 2003 sure looks different in there from 2002!
Dick, thank you, your instructions are spot on and it was the circuit breaker in photo 3. Once the button was pressed, the compressor started up and the bladder filled instantly. It ran for what seemed like forever, and I was beginning to think the bladder was damaged and that might have been the cause for the compressor to trip the circuit breaker. But after about two to three minutes, the compressor stopped, and it was time to try to extend the slide.
Turned the key, the bladder started deflating, and then the amber light stayed lit. I hit the extend button and the slide extended as usual. Yes!!!!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate all the time you took to take the pics and post the detailed instructions.
Thanks everyone for all your help, ideas, and information. I just love this forum.
This view is much better than the inside of the slide!
Very happy you got it working. Two or three minutes is pretty common. Now you will need to see how often that compressor comes On. Every few hours is probably too often, once a day ok, less frequently is super. :D
Hmmm, On my 2000, leveling coach not required for slide operation. In fact james T at GV said put out =slide first, then level…. I now do it that way.
I know, I am sure I will here from all of you how dumb that is. I dump the suspension, put out my single slide, then level. If good enough for James T, I a m good with it…..
My breaker was tripping intermittently. I tried monitoring the amp draw on the circuit but never saw it high enough to trip it. So I replaced the breaker just to try something and no problems since.
What do you do if the aux. air compressor was to fail ? How would you get air into the system to make the bladders reinflate or reseal?
Tim, thanks for the post on leveling after the slide(s) are extended. I will be changing my procedure. I'm pretty sure the level changes after extending the slides so doing it this way I should only have to level once.
Ellen and David,
That is a good question. I was hoping to see some solutions offered.
I think you need air pressure in the slide air tank for sure.
Maybe we should rig an air fitting somehow so we could use an air hose from the on-board air source?
Something like this in line 57?
I believe (but can't find at the moment) an earlier thread about James T's recommendation to extend the slide first, then level... a procedure which has always seemed counter-intuitive to us. A search of the forum did come up with a post by txforetravel a couple of years ago (they have an '02) while at the HWH factory, when he asked about dumping air prior to slides out (in order to put the steps closer to the ground): "Per Joe, HWH service manager, he says to dump air if you want the coach lower, then auto level, then slides out." The takeaway point in that post, for me anyway, is the auto leveling first, following by slide extension. Here's the post: Told different ways to level coach (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15735.msg97316#msg97316)
Well, I didn't want to venture a post in opposition to what the guru states, but after my experience with Foretravel and slides, I have to comment that I would trust what HWH says in their manual over Foretravel with regard to the slide mechanisms...at least as regards to my 2002. They state, in http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml24573.pdf (http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml24573.pdf) on the top of page 10: "IMPORTANT: It is recommended to level the vehicle before extending the room."
My experience with FOT on the subject of my slide issues has been dismal.
When I first got the coach, around 2006, and the slide was erratic, I went to FOT and they were unable to assess that my slide problem was a misplaced bolt impeding the train system's movement and causing my problem. They couldn't find what was making it erratic and I went on my way, wishing I had not bought a coach with a slide if even the factory couldn't make it work right.
Fast forward 7 years of little slide use. I had someone tell me there was a repair service in WA who could fix my slide. The tech found it far out of synch, and contacted FOT to learn how to proceed. James T instructed my service guy at RnR in WA this past June to have me purchase a synchronizing tube (around $1500) to solve my problem...which was caused by the bolt noted above, and had nothing to do with the synch tube. I told them I did not have time to wait there for a week to get a tube made and sent to me. So the tech, who also didn't really buy the synch tube as the solution, called FOT again and got a different response, from a different tech who told him just complete the re-synching process and it would be fine. He did, and that cured the out-of-synch condition (but not its root cause, the bad cylinder). Had they installed a new synch cylinder as directed, they would have had to re-synch the room as part of its installation and it would have appeared that I had needed the tube along with the approximately $2000 extra cost for nothing.
So. Take your pick. Listen to the engineers at HWH who designed the system...or listen to Foretravel who installed the HWH system. I now understand there is far too much that can go wrong to not pay attention to the right entity.
Dick,
I believe that is incorrect for our year coach.
I have seen where the slide would bind on the cabinet if it was out of level and gauge the wood.
Here is the instructions from the 2003 owners manual and confirmed by James T.
SLIDE-OUT ROOM CONTROL PANELThe room control panel key must be in the ON position and a window or door open to extend or retract the room.
The coach should be leveled before extending a room.
Barry, thank you so much for confirming that... and confirming that James T confirmed it! :))
It appears the order of leveling and sliding depends on the year built. In my case, 2003, level first, slide second.
I guess this means if you intentionally tip the coach to dump water before sliding in, you need to rip, then relevel, then slide in.
This gets complicated. Good thing we don't get much rain in So. Cal.
I have many friends with SOB's that their instructions say Slide out first & then level.
I will level first then put out the slide and then the coach has to re-level itself 30 mins later.
John, You and I have an earlier model...2001 and I agree with you. I think I understand the logic of both JT and HWH but for now..but if brought to a face to face, one would blink in some reality that would be quickly resolved. Standing side by side, there might be a quick different answer.
for us... Leveling our earliest FOT slide system first..., makes sense to me.
Get the stress off of the 'structure' by getting it level. #1.
then: shift the weight of the slide out.
and then...Let the system's(12v compressor that is in place, tweak the pressures to keep everything lever from then on.
No stress, no muss no fuss....I hope.
Hi, I have been working through a slide issue today, now it's bypassed so good for today. I did notice in one of your pictures the same toggle switch I have on the aux compressor. FOT told me The PO may have installed this? As my compressor seems to run for an extended time, I assumed someone installed this to shut down the compressor to prevent overheating? If I leave it on, sometimes I've heard the compressor running for more that 30 minutes, I had to go out in the middle of the night to shut it off.
Not I only turn on the compressor before and after arrival.
Was this a factory installation, and what is the exact purpose....Seems funny this would be needed if the system was engineered correctly.
Thanks, Paul
Sounds like you have a leak and a usual culprits are bladder or the water separator.
Paul, Sorry you are having a problem with this. I have recently been up in the middle of the night for the same reason. 12 vdc compressor running endlessly. What I found was the unloader solenoid (the brass thing at the bottom of the attached photo) failed to close during the compressor ON cycle. This solenoid is Normally Open (NO). When the compressor starts, 12 volts is applied and the solenoid closes in order to pressurize the system. When the compressor reaches pressure the solenoid opens again to relieve the pressure on the compressor piston so it will start easier next time. There are check valves to prevent losing pressure from the entire system.
In my case when I went out to turn the compressor at 0230 hours, I could hear the air gushing out of the output port of that solenoid and when I put my finger over the port it confirmed it.
All that does not help you solve the problem. Here's what I have done. I replaced a small circuit board located by the compressor relay (photo); that wasn't the problem. Then I replaced the Square D pressure switch ( I knew that was it). Wrong! Lastly, I decided to take apart the Parker particulate filter and unloader solenoid. I found there is a filter in the top of it. It has not been serviced for years. The bowl and the insert at the bottom had hairline cracks. I replaced the filter head from Amazon for reasonable price. The bowl is SPECIAL!! Only available from Foretravel; $97.00. For about $15 I bought a bowl from Amazon, it wouldn't work, but the folks t Parker Pneumatics gave me a part number for an insert that would work for $38. Anyway, I put it all together and the unloader would not close completely. That solenoid from Foretravel is $167 plus shipping. I used a workable solenoid from Amazon for $25. The system is now working correctly.
Long story, hope it helps. Let me know if I can help and what you finally find as your solution
Dick
Dick S
I would be interested in exactly what solenoid from Amazon you are talking about. Big difference in price.
The toggle switch may have been installed to shut the power off to the compressor when changing the desiccant, as it's easier than pulling the fuse.
Paul, that switch was put on by a previous owner. If there is an air leak, (which you apparently have) that will keep it from running to excess or waking you in the night. We put a switch on our 2002 and will probably put one on this 2003 we just bought. It's nice to flip a switch rather than having to pull a fuse if there is a failure and the pump keeps running. Some folks have put that switch on the inside of the coach for convenience. You don't want water intrusion from the bladder not being inflated in a heavy rain so don't turn it off and forget it.
I believe those pumps are activitied both by the pressure for the slide seal and by the leveling system. If the switch is off, it may still run when the HWH tells it to. I've seen them run with the fuse pulled because the leveling system was calling for air.
I suspect that the modification that James talked about at the Grandvention will take care of your issue, especially since you likely have the new style seal. I should have paid more attention when he talked about that.
Glenn,
The solenoid I am using is here; 1/4" Brass 12V DC Electric Solenoid Valve NPT NBR SEAL Normally Open (Air,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APDIB9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I could not find many choices for a N/O 12 vdc solenoid. It seems to be working fine.