A while back, I purchased 8 of the Northern Tool 12" x 2" receiver tubes to use as safety stands. Yesterday I had my first opportunity to try them out. Took the coach out for 50 mile exercise run and got my annual TX DMV safety inspection. Coach passed inspection with flying colors. Back at the house, I decided to try inserting the stands - ran into 2 problems.
First, the coach would not "stay" in the raised position. I probably did it wrong. (I've read over the HWH info at Beamalarm.com but I'm still a little confused) Engine running, air pressure at 110 both tanks (the highest I ever see on the gauge, by the way), trans in neutral, parking brake set. I push the "raise" button, and the coach goes up to maximum height. When I release the "raise" button, it immediately starts dropping back down. Does this mean I have the "momentary" controls that do not "latch"? If so, I think my mistake was leaving the engine running - I should have turned off ignition switch BEFORE releasing "raise" button, and then coach would remain in raised position??? Anyway, as a temporary solution yesterday, I got the DW to hold down the "raise" button, while I went outside to try inserting the stands, which brings me to my second problem.
In the rear of coach, I had lots of room to insert the 12" long stands - probably a half inch or more extra clearance at all 4 bags. HOWEVER, at the front of coach I could not insert stands at any of the 4 bags. It was REAL close, but I needed about another 1/4" of space for them to fit. So, my question is, is it normal for there to be a difference in the "raised" height at front and rear of coach, or is this a condition unique to my coach? Is there anything I can "adjust" to increase the maximum extension of the front air bags?
I know I can trim the length of the stands so they will fit, but just wanted to "ask the experts" if there is another, better, solution. Thanks in advance!
Photo of my HWH control panel, in case it helps you answer my question:
HWH pad use should be.
touch AIR
touch and hold raise
quickly touch air.
Coach should stay in raised position til you touch air again.
Second method is to turn key off when raised.
Gary B
I've tried the same thing. What works for me is not the "raise" button in the lower left but alternately raising front and back a bit at a time until the coach is as high as possible. I have adjustable safety stands, and found out the hard way that if I put them in when an airbag is at full extension I can't get them back out easily.
Thanks, Gary. I'll try that method next time.
I recall Barry B saying - turn off key at ignition when it top position
Little dangerous - putting them in while running. :o
Yes, I like to "live on the edge". Seriously, no moving parts, unless the coach moves, or the "raise" button is released. Requires LOTS of faith in the DW, which I have!
Chuck, now you did it. I too have great faith in my DW. ;D
Gary's recommendations will work. However, I think touching AIR before touching "RAISE" is not necessary. My experience has been that "RAISE" and "LOWER" are temporary positions that only hold as long as the button is pressed. The parking brake does not have to be set to use those buttons. They can be used for SLOWLY moving over an obstacle or under and obstacle where the coach will "almost" fit. I have used the "RAISE" button to keep from dragging a front corner or the tow hitch when there is a sharp angle change or dip in the path.
You can use "RAISE" get the coach up high. Immediately after releasing "RAISE," touch "AIR" to hold the position. The parking brake must be set for "AIR" to hold the position.
I had a local welding shop fabricate adjustable stands. They will not adjust while they are loaded with the weight of the coach, but they will accommodate more situations than fixed length stands. I found that I could set the stands for proper ride height and the crawl under the coach and tweak the ride height adjustment to match the position of the coach.
One time when I raised the front of our coach to full height, it pulled the adjustment for ride height hard enough to raise the front ride height above specifications. My clue was some shiny, exposed metal on some of the valve linkage. I adjusted the height to specifications and tightened clamps. You may want to check the front ride height after the coach has been at full height in the front.
"I found that I could set the stands for proper ride height and the crawl under the coach and tweak the ride height adjustment to match the position of the coach." That's a great idea! I had a local shop make up eight stands for me. The box with all eight in it is a bit on the heavy side, but I'm not going to be hauling it around by myself much.
I have only four stands. It's may be prudent to block at each air spring, but I just block at each wheel. I block on the rear H frame member at the front axle and the front H frame member at the rear axle. Don't know if that is best, but I haven't broken anything or gotten hurt yet.
Each stand is in two pieces and I only handle one stand at a time. I seldom lift the box. It contains the stands and emergency triangle reflectors.
J.D. local technician/mechanic said that I only need to block as you said on the one H frame at each end. What I do not recall JD was the fairly exact measurement. Seems 8 inch will do fine but I seem to recall some one gave a more exact measurement, and tubing diameter, wall thickness?
I was thinking of having these made, but folks keep saying Harbor Freight or such has something that will do? I was not going to get adjustable, just the square cut to length tubing.
On the 2001 mode....not sure when began....you do not have to hold the raise button down, just press and hold a second and it will raise. I can turn the key off raised, it holds until someone turns the key. Still, put the stands for safety.
The reason I had eight stands made was because it didn't cost much more due to the way some of the materials came. I still have some air leaks somewhere, so I've actually thought about leveling the coach and then putting the stands in to make sure that it stays level.
Hold the button with the key on till it raises all the way up. Then block on a 2001.
OK - going back to my original post in this thread, my first question has been answered. I know what I did wrong, and next time I try to raise the coach I will use the correct "technique".
BUT, there has not been any response to my 2nd query: why does my coach raise up higher in the back than in the front? As I said, my 12" stands fit fine in the back, and will not fit in the front. Do those of you who regularly use the safety stands find a difference in the space available, front and back? Or is the space where you fit the stand pretty much the same at each end?
Just trying to determine if my coach is "normal", or not.
I use 11" stands and I think I might be able to get 12" stands in the back, I doubt that I could ever get them to fit in the front. For me, 11" stands are just the right length.
Monti,
Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll have to get my stands trimmed down a bit. I know I read some posts here about people using 12" stands without any problem, so I'm not sure what's going on with my coach. Perhaps it is just lazy...
I'm almost certain that David Whitehead at MOT told me to get them cut to 11 1/4" inches. I don't know what years that would fit and I've never measured, but that's what I recall.