Boy did I goof! This afternoon it got into the low 40's, so we decided to sanitize and fill the fresh water tank. A couple of days ago we called Foretravel to get their recommendation and found their recommended product at a local store. The procedure calls for filling the tank with the detergent, running that through the faucets, emptying the fresh water tank (previously completely filled), filling with fresh water, running that through the plumbing, emptying it, filling the tank with the sanitizer solution, running that through the plumbing, emptying the tank, and then finally filling the tank with the fresh water to be used. We got as far as emptying the tank after the rinse when a hose connection failed. It was late enough that I wasn't going to be able to get a new end tonight, so I said we could move the coach onto the yard, so we wouldn't need that last hose. BIG MISTAKE!!
The ground had thawed just enough that we are now stuck. To make matters worse, this is on the other side of the house from the electricity. The gray water tank shows about 1/4 full. We've been sleeping in the coach, and today I brought the television out to it. I've got the generator running so we will have heat tonight. Tomorrow I'll dump the gray water tank, since all it has in it is the water we ran through the plumbing and then shut everything off. By then we'll have dug out a bed here in the house to sleep on.
Now the questions. Will CoachNet pull us out or should I just ask a neighbor with a large tractor? Either way, will we need to remove axles? We're maybe 50-60 feet from the driveway.
I'm really confused. Why would you need to remove the axles? Does the engine not run?
Yes, the engine runs. I read on another thread that you should remove both axles when the coach is being towed. I was hoping that for such a short distance that wouldn't be necessary.
First, I don't think it would be necessary to remove the axles just the U Joint to tow the unit. Second I don't think it would be required for such a short distance but most importantly if the engine is running and your trying to drive out of the mess it will be much easier to get your coach back on solid ground.
Am I missing something?
Sounds good to me, but then I'm the idiot that got the coach stuck in the mud in the front yard.
I hope someone else will chime in if I am not correct about any of the foregoing.
David, it is getting colder as we speak.
Are you on an incline?
Are you sunk in the yard?
In the morning it should be frozen enough, ease it forward if it spins - stop.
I agree with Ken, as long as your engine is running, in drive so you can steer.
Not necessary to pull axles. Pull one fiberglass bottom nose panel or attach chain to trailer hitch and use a neighbors PU along with your engine to pull it out of the mud. Chains don't store energy so no worry if it breaks. Don't use a cable or rope. Could cause injury or damage.
Pierce
I would probably try to drive it out with some assist from a tractor with good lugs on the tires and a strong chain for tugging. However, it may be challenging to attach a chain in a spot that won't cause damage. You might have success towing from the rear.
Things might indeed firm up if the temperature drops below freezing for a while. If you are not sunk in too deep, sand, gravel, shingles, or heavy cloth near the treads may help provide traction.
When I drove my coach through your yard, the ground was hard as a rock. However, you probably want to move the coach before the ground dries out in July. ::)
David,
Forgot to say that unless you have the main engine running and air pressure, you can't release parking brake. No steering either. Once a bottom nose panel is removed, it's only 30 seconds to attach chain w/hook. Only pull with one nose chain connection, NOT both.
Pierce
I take it the 1993 does not have the same 2" double hitches up front to use as a tow point(s) as did the 1990?
Yes, it does.
Pierce
To late now and doesn't help the stuck situation!
RV Tech Library - Sanitizing Your Fresh Water System (http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/plumbing/sanitizing.htm)
Should have explained better but iPad in front of TV makes for short answers.
Using one attachment on the U300 will make for a straight line pull. Two separated points creates a triangle and the shorter the tow chain is, the greater the force trying to bring the two tow points together is. Our fire trucks usually had two attachment points on the front of the trucks to make them look symmetrical. Our policy was to only connect to one in case it had to be towed. Unfortunately, in two cases, the crew ran a chain through both on the nose of the rig and as soon as the chain was tightened, it bent the attachment points towards each other. With both trucks, the tow rings came out through the nose sheet metal just below the headlights. When the rings moved toward each other, they tore into the nice red sheet metal and required some expensive body work to fix. The second time several years later ended with the same result. The damage seems to be greater if the chain is run from the tow vehicle through the nose, across to the other pull point and then back to the tow vehicle. Either side of a U300 tow attachment can withstand anything a tow truck could do.
Most European cars as well as later American SUVs have one tow point in the front and one in the rear. Easier to put a kink in the unibody the other way.
Pierce
Coach net will have a distance from the road limitation - not sure what it is, Geico is 100 feet. When i got stuck in some sand, Big tractor, big chain on trailer hitch, he pulled, I out it in reverse and after 10 feet was on solid ground. No muss, no fuss, no damage, no pulled axles. Tried to give him $100, wouldn't take it, finally got him to take $40.
Good luck!
I know from having my 40'r parked on dirt for a extended time (learned my lesson fast, had gravel dumped, and parked on top of 2X12s), that it will sink like the Titanic.
The weight can't be underestimated especially on soft or thawed dirt.
I would not leave it like this for any length of time as the sinking will continue.
Maybe some gravel, and 2x12s placed across your tires track will get you out and moving.
The steer tires (if at all positions) have little to no grip in slick dirt.
No need to unhook axles or drive shafts. Hook to a solid tow point trailer hitch, or any tow hooks. You might dig out from in front of the tires a little bit in the direction you are going to pull it. Be careful putting boards in front of your tires these can get alot of pressure on them coming up on them or going off and do some real damage to fiberglass if they get at the right angle. Also don't turn your front wheels keep them straight.
Hey Dave, Pierce has it exactly right, Removing axles is only necessary for long over the road tows. You will need the engine assist and air pressure to help get out with out causing damage. A winch truck or large farm tractor would be my first choice for pulling power. If you leave the coach sit too long and it freezes into the ground you will have to wait until a thaw or you will cause damage. Good Luck,
David, Go with the tractor but watch the fibreglass. Pull it from the rear on the hitch if you can.
Good luck.
Gary B
Thanks for all the advice. The pull will have to be from the rear. We're supposed to get more cold (surprise, surprise) again, so maybe I can arrange with a neighbor to pull it out using the hitch. We're headed out the door now for an appointment, but should be back after lunch.
I have been in the same place as you are. Hook a chain on your rear hitch and hook to a tractor or 4 WD pickup and start the coach put into reverse and when they start to pull you give the coach a little power and you should come right out. The problem is you have no traction with your vehicle because of the weight and wet slick ground. Same as when you car is on ice it doesn;t want to move, but someone can push it by hand if you are providing power to the wheels
I read threads like this horror and attentiveness...I've never gotten anything this big stuck before, and most certainly don't wanna start now! Ya know, it might not be the worst idea in the world to store a couple big stout 2x12's in the basement.
After removing any panels do this. If wheels are in a hole ramp the exit from it (make a slope). If you rig a double leg tow bridle the angle between the legs at the tow vehicle end should be approximately 30 deg. This will make the load on each leg a little more than half the total load. Attach one leg to each tow eye. Start engine and build up air. Put the towed vehicle in reverse if towing from front and rock back as far as possible, apply foot brake. Put towed vehicle in forward gear. The towing vehicle takes up the strain, don't spin wheels. On your signal release the brake and apply light throttle at the same time as pulling vehicle pulls. Pull straight. Don't spin wheels. Do everything SLOWLY. You are dealing with a lot of force. Work out horn signals between you first. IE: 2 honks start, 3 honks keep going, 1 long honk stop. As previously stated use chain if you can. Non stretch tow rope is available but harder to find. Never use rope that will stretch as it can break and recoil violently causing damage or injury. Never stand in line with any rope or chain that is under tension.
Keith
When cars were first made, both rear wheels turned at the same speed all the time. This was OK except for going around corners where one wheel had to skid a bit and wore down the rear tires. Was not a big deal until the roads were paved. Then came the invention of the spider gears, four small gears in the middle of the real axle ring gear assembly (differential). This is what we have now in most cars and almost all RVs. This works great 99% of the time. Going straight down the road, the spider gears don't do much but when you come to a corner, they allow power to both wheels while letting the outside wheel turn faster (and the inside slower) without skidding and wearing the tires. The only problems comes when one driven wheel loses traction in snow, ice or in this case, MUD. The spider gears are helpless to transfer any power to the other wheel so the one in mud just spins. With Positraction, an option on some cars, power goes to the other wheel while still allowing differential ability on corners.
Many of us now own AWD or all wheel drive vehicles where the latest models transfer power from the spinning wheel to the other three giving the ability, especially with studded tires, to go where even a mountain goat would have trouble.
Many race cars use a "locked" rear end. Both rear tires turn at the same speed all the time. On counter clockwise circle tracks, the outside right rear tire must be slightly larger in circumference or the car may develop severe oversteer (loose) (rear end of the car tries to meet the front).
For an RV owner, this means avoiding any situation that may cause one rear drive tire to lose traction. This can mean snow, ice or even in your driveway where one wheel sits in slippery dirt or mud. We don't have the ability to install chains like the big rigs so best to avoid driving where this could happen. Another good reason to park it if snowing or icy.
David, you might try using the HWH air bag controls to put more pressure on the rear tire in the mud. Keith has excellent advise, especially about "doing everything slowly". With the big diesel just at idle in gear, it applies a lot of torque to the wheels.
A note on cables: Many of us have "Come Along" winches. In the telephone or cable TV business, they are referred to as "Coffin Hoists" because if the cable they are pulling on breaks, it puts the user in a coffin.
Pierce
Our church's new organ was delivered this morning, and since I'm the organist everyone thought I should be there. After the heavy work of holding the doors open for the two strong young men to haul it it, and then running the vacuum cleaner where the old organ was, I was tuckered out, so Jo Ann and I went out to lunch. After lunch we visited the two elderly members in the nursing home near us, and then finally went home. After supper I called CoachNet, thinking that since this wasn't a real emergency they would send someone out in the morning. Nope, they sent a man out tonight. He hooked up, gave a bit of a tug, and out I came! The coach is back up in front of the house, where it belongs, ready for the freezing rain, sleet, snow, and whatever else is supposed to show up this weekend. I have plenty of diesel if we need to run the coach generator, and plenty of gasoline if we decide to run the other generator to power the house.
Great! Thanks for the update as this could happen to anyone of us. Glad it went off without (or with) a hitch.
Pierce
Great David :thumbsup:
Sounds like it came out as easy as it went in ! ^.^d No damage, on hard ground, sounds like a great learning experience with out much cost $$$$ - Maybe the helping hand at "Church" had something to do with it......... Happy Ending ;D ;D