Hi David,
I would leave the drive shaft alone. Have the tow company pull an axle. Most tow companies carry a axle hub covers just for towing. Much easier to r&r. Best of luck.
Raymond
Raymond has a great tip. Why not buy one of these poly covers for about $40 and toss it in the tool box. Could save $$$, possible damage from tow driver and lots of time. Price List - Blank Title (http://www.axlecap.net/price-list.html)
Pierce
I am not familiar with pulling an axle in order to tow. Educate me.
Good question. Half ton pickups have axles that support all the weight so if an axle breaks at the outside, the wheel falls off. They are also prone to sliding out with the tire/wheel if overloaded. They have a bearing out at the end of the "banjo" housing but no hub. Three quarter ton pickups have what the call a full floating rear axle. The tire/wheel and the axle bolt to the hub. The hub has a large bearing that takes all the load and a large flange the axle bolts to. So, you can just take a few bolts off and slide the axle out without removing the tire or anything. Nice!
Pierce
Allows the tires to turn and not the driveshaft.
One problem. The solid hubcap I thinks requires that the lug bolts be removed. May need to change that to an open ended design to access the cover.
Bob
RE: "Have the tow company pull an axle. Most tow companies carry an axle hub covers just for towing"
I think most tow companies do not have covers, but may attempt to close the ends off with cardboard, if they pull axles.
We carry plastic axle hub covers made for use in towing. We would plan to remove drive axles if we have to be towed. These covers are bolted in place of the axles to keep dirt out and oil in.
Axle Caps - Home (http://www.axlecap.net/index.html)
For long distance towing, both axles should be removed as removing only one causes the spider gears to turn rapidly especially if towing fast. The gears turn MUCH faster than they would in normal service (they only really turn much when you go around a corner) and they can be damaged by lack of lubrication and the bearing surfaces will gall. Some hot rodders experienced this with burnouts when they would rapidly spin the right rear tire. That's why the site I linked to sold the covers in pairs.
Easy to make your own covers. Just use a piece of paper as a template and then find a piece of poly or even aluminum or plywood about the same thickness as the axle flange and drill the holes.
Pierce
When I had a broken hydraulic line (powering the steering and radiator fan) I was at the mercy to be towed. The large semi tow truck arrived and told me he was going to pull the axel. He removed the lug nut covers and the hub dust cover. Next he removed the 6 or 8 bolts holding the axel in. He had a pre made cover made of wood and had rubber gasket material with the holes pre drilled. After pulling the axel a slight amount of gear oil did drip out. He quickly placed the wood cover on and snugged the bolts preventing any more oil to weep out. He also had a thick clean piece of plastic that he placed the axel rod on and wrapped it up in that to keep it clean. He stated that only one side was required to be removed. He did the road side on me. Thant was over 10 K miles ago. He towed the coach to Cummings of Elkhart. After he left I asked the service writer and mechanic if that was proper and they both said that is how they always get units towed in. The only problem with the tow was the bunge cord holding the mud flap up from dragging broke and I still have severe road rash on it. Hope that helps. David
X2 on the towing info. I have often wonder about the best method in case it ever came to that.
I would also, be interested in hearing if there is a special way these coaches should be hooked due to the Bulkhead configuration. I doubt most tow drivers are familiar with this set up.
Pierce,
What is the correct part number (on the referenced page) for our coaches? Is it the same cap for all the "popular" Foretravel models (like, for instance, the 1990 to 2000 model years), or do different models/years use different axle caps? Inquiring minds want to know!
Gee , what to do to be towed ??? Well just happened to be at a truck stop , and while fueling a road tractor pulled up at the next pump. He had three other tractors hooked to him with the front end of each on the back end of the one in front of it .I ask him where he was coming from and he said ,the plant where they were made close to Christianburg ,Virginia .We were at the 84 mile marker on I-10 Arizona . This is a fairly long stretch of miles .I ask what was done to the trucks that were being towed . He said he didn't know as that was not his job . So we together had a look see . In the cab of each towed truck was the (one) axle wrapped in cardboard lying on the floor . I ask if he had any speed restrictions , he said" yes I do , this damn thing (new) thing I'm driving didn't have enough power to pull a sick whore off a pot " ??? "can't get it past 75 MPH , must have a gov. on it " Looks like distance or speed doesn't figure in this topic with the heavy rear axles like we have . Maybe on light weight rears , don't know on that . Brad Metzger
Brad,
I figured this would come up and your post is most appropriate. I kept thinking about the spider gears spinning away at high speed and also why the cover manufacturer would sell the covers in pairs. So, I called the Dana-Spicer factory and spoke to their tech rep, Jim. He said in ALL cases, both axles should be pulled and the covers installed on both sides. He was quite emphatic with Dana's towing instruction. His reason was the same. The spider gears are designed to only operate going around corners or if one tire were a different diameter than the tire on the other side. They are not supported by ball or roller bearings and only ride on a babbit type surface. Spinning at high speed will cause damage/wear that may not show up until thousands of miles down the road.
Point is that tow truck drivers are only a little above the average RV owner when it comes to technical knowledge. How many rear end seminars have they attended? The guys at the factory design the rear end to operate in a certain environment and closely monitor issues their product may have. We all know what happened to the United Airlines DC-10 in Chicago when the mechanics installed one engine with a fork lift instead of the prescribed tools. One method is easier and faster but ...
Dana-Spicer: Dana Spicer Parts and Axles | The Difference (http://spicerparts.com/spicer-difference)
Pierce
Chuck,
Wayne, the owner of
Axle Caps just called me back. He said to count the number of studs and then measure across the middle to the opposite stud and then call him at 845-357-0829 to order. That way, the correct caps will arrive. He also said all warranty companies require any drive wheel touching the ground has to have the axle pulled. Greyhound company policy also if they have a breakdown.
Pierce
RE: " What is the correct part number"
We purchased a pair of Axle Cap part number MR8D-1 for $33.95 + $11.10 shipping in 2009. We have not used them, so we are not sure how they fit. We did put a set of flat washer wrapped up with them in our spare parts container. They are pretty thick and sturdy looking.
Pierce,
Thanks for measuring concept. I was thinking along those lines yesterday but using
a slightly different device, same results. Quick and efficient.
David
I recently received my Axle Caps. Link: Blank Title - Home (http://www.axlecap.net/)
Thanks to Pierce, I had the number of studs (Eight) and the stud center to center measurement (Seven inch) ready for when I spoke with Wayne at Axle Caps. Our Axle Cap p/n is MR8D-1 which includes two covers. I think this is the same p/n as Barry and Cindy's. I dry fit on Axle studs and it fits perfectly.
This is one of those "just in case" safety items. I hope we NEVER. EVER. NEVER. have the need for them.
Like, Barry and Cindy, I'll put the correct number of washers with the Axle Caps.
Attached is a couple of photos.
Dave Abel
Great info. Thanks for the posting and pictures.
It is an excellent idea to have those axle caps. Using them is far better (although hopefully never needed) than messing around with the driveshaft. I'm really thankful that the previous owner included them when selling our motorhome.
Thanks Barry and Dave. My caps are on the way.
This article is very interesting and brings up a question one should ask when considering the purchase of a used rig. The question should be has the rig ever been towed. Then one should nonchalantly ask if an axle was pulled for the tow. The seller would likely remember if one or both axles were pulled. For would likely make or break the deal
Bob,
Make or break a deal might be a little extreme. Even a complete overhaul of the rear axle with new gears should come in under $2000.
good to know but life is short. As I scan the 'net for possible purchase I find this site and its experienced owners to be a godsend.
During a breakdown, most owners are probably too concerned with many other things to remember years later if one or both axles were pulled. Does not make too much difference to the rear axle assembly if the axles were pulled vs the driveshaft with only the possibility of spider bearing surface galling if only one axle were to be pulled. As Brett said, it could be only a couple thousand in the worst case. The Allison transmission is what will suffer if the output shaft is allowed to turn for very long. Even some manual transmissions can't be pulled too far without pulling the axles or driveshaft. The driveshaft could have either not been pulled or not put back on correctly or with the incorrect bolts (tow guy lost the OEM bolts) and not torqued. Always good to mark the separation points so it can be put back in exactly the same position as when it was removed.
So many other factors in a coach purchase survey that axle pulls vs driveshaft would be at the bottom of my list and just not a deal breaker. Could be interesting to ask about though.
A surveyor with a lot of vehicle purchasing experience can usually tell if a coach is good or bad in the first minute they look at it. On the other hand, a crafty salesperson can hide defects from a novice that pages of checklists and notes will never find. Always best to hire someone with experience with the make and model and not think a fat checking account gives you any kind of insight. Usually just the opposite.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce