My wife and I are new to RVing and just purchased a 1999 U270 36' from a family member who had passed away. We have not taken her out yet and I have been reading manuals to learn what I can and had RVing friends show me things. We plan on taking her to a local state park for first try to see if everything works. I guess I will learn what I know and don't know. Any words of wisdom from any experienced RVers before we try her out? I am looking forward to it!!
Welcome to the group.
Take your internet phone, and count on us to help with your questions. These things are full of systems and complications. I am learning something new almost daily from the posted questions and answers.
Share your location either in your signature or profile, along with your year, model and build number. This will really help you get the best of help. And who knows, you might just be down the street from another forum member.
And maybe the most important RV tip ever. Don't leave your black tank valve open, or open it till you are ready to drain everything. And make sure the hose is really tightly connected! Good plan is to fill your water tank full, and then use your pump for water, and know that about the time you are low on water, your grey and black tanks are full. Plus we always travel with water, as you never know if the water is on when you arrive. Or find out, you are not going to arrive, but stuck on the side of the road, or in a service parking lot till they open on Monday. Just a couple of weeks ago, we left the coach for a several hour repair. Well, at 6 we found out the coach was still outside and not looked at, with to be 10 degrees with snow. We spent the night there, comfortable, warm after hot showers, with lots of diesel, water and food on board.
Find your "salesman" switch for the battery, before you need to find out why you have no power inside.
Make certain the tires are at correct pressure. Engine and trans oil full, and coolant in good shape and topped off. If you don't know when they and their filters were changed last, put that on your to-do list. Make sure the service brakes are up to snuff, slack adjusters set right and pads and discs in good shape. This can be a DIY check, but if you have access to a big truck mechanic, it might be worth it to have it gone over. I kinda need to check slack adjusters meself, now that I think of it. Spend time in the beastie in your driveway, just getting used to where things are. Spend time on this site and ask lots of questions, this is one of the best forums on the internet! Oh yes, if you haven't already, go print out the "50 things to check before you buy your used foretravel" sticky on the general discussion page. I use a slightly modified copy of it as a preflight checklist.
I would suggest spending the night before you leave in the driveway. Do dinner, showering, sleeping and breakfast. It's just too hard to remember or think of everything and once your at your campsite - and little too inconvenient to run back home.
First thing I learned long ago in the used coach biz was to replace all the batteries in the coach. And redo all the cabling ends.
Must have perfect 12 volt in the coach or you will chase your tail trying to figure out why and how long things will work.
Buy the best if this is a keeper coach IMO.
Red top optima's for the engine start and deka MK 8G8D's for the house.
Solar to keep everything charged and sized to your budgetary limits is a asset if not plugged in when stored.
Wiper blades, coach water pump are the other things I normally replace first.
Better rving with good power, and water pressure and the wipers if it rains.
Good coach. Welcome. Bob
Another welcome! Good advice above, and my addition is to check the members map to see if anyone is near you. We're getting ready to go out full-timing and are starting to live in the coach. We bring things in daily, and some are things that we would have forgotten if we didn't need it here. We're about 20' from the front door of the house, and that is a lot more convenient than getting in the car and running to Wal-Mart because you forgot something.
We join the others here who have welcomed you. The members of the Foreforums "family" are an incredible bunch, and you will find the advice here to be priceless.
We also suggest you "camp" for a night or two at home. That will help you become familiar with the systems, and also make it very easy to ask questions here. Even the simplest Foretravel is a pretty complicated machine, and you may find yourself needing to ask the same question more than once--because there can be so much to remember. Don't worry: We've all "been there."
Hope to meet you in person down the road sometime!
As everyone has said, Welcome! Good advice from all above. The Foretravel Motorcade Club is free to new owners for a year. It is another way to find nearby owners. If you aren't sure about service status get all the normal service done, then you know where you are.
Be curious, ask questions, try and figure things out for yourself, learn how things work, fix what you can and find someone you can trust for the rest of it.
Go to RV driving school if you want to. It is well worth it.
And then, above all, travel, have fun, seek out adventure, make new friends and enjoy the life style.
Roger
Agree on a set of hand signals with a spotter for movements in tight quarters. Check the internet for a set of simple signals. Always use a spotter when backing. If you can't see the spotter don't move. When in doubt, don't move, get out and look for yourself. Be patient anywhere, but especially in a campground.
Welcome to the forum! We have the same year/model coach and love it. Don has become an expert on this particular model so if you have questions about how things work, just ask him! ;D
Tys
Congrats and welcome to the forum. My first Foretravel was a 99 U270. Ask away
Welcome! Same as Don and John S, my previous FT was a 1999 U-270
Here to help
Welcome! For a quick overview of RV driving, here's a great link to the Driver Confidence Course (free at Lazydays locations in Tampa, FL and Tucson, AZ). Scroll to the bottom of the page for links to 7 very helpful driving videos... I especially liked the two on mirror adjustment and backing into a campsite. Enjoy your new-to-you Foretravel!
Lazydays Driver Confidence Course: Driving An RV From Dream to a Reality - (http://betterrving.com/driving-an-rv-dream/)
Welcome aboard. This site can make your experience a whole lot less stressful than learning on your own. Ask questions, make an effort to meet us as you travel.
Have fun
Gary B
Congrats on your new acquisition. This is indeed a lifestyle event for you. There are so many things to learn. The best way is to search this site and "beamalarms.com" for a PDA (pre delivery inspection) sheet and go over this carefully. This is the best way to become familiar with all the possible pitfalls you'll encounter along the way. And then there is "us". We're here to help.
Welcome the the forum. Tires age out not wear out. check the date on the tires. They can look good and be old and dangerous.
Have fun!
Roy
Welcome to the forum and congrats. We had never had a motorhome b/4 we got our FT. This forum has been a lifesaver. Lot's of great, helpful people here. I have found that most everytime I have asked a question a reply/response was forthcoming within minutes of posting. At first I was completely overwhelmed by the complexities of the coach, but now after a year of ownership we are feeling more comfortable. Any question is worth asking. Also the Search function became my best friend. I spent hours reading previous threads to try to aquaint my self with the language and get and overall feeling for our Ol Girl. Our PO was also a forum member and I found his posts. That was very interesting. :D
Congrats on your new coach! Above posts cover most all. Couple things. Yes, parking lot practice is excellent. Make sure mirrors are working and adjusted. If you have the habit of cutting across corners on country roads, especially right hand, lose it in a hurry. The coach will not stop like a car so allow plenty of distance between yourself and the car ahead. Don't drive at night until you have time behind the wheel. Get all driving and fueling done early in the day. You WILL get tired in the afternoon and are more susceptible to mistakes. Don't let other cars intimidate you.
In cities or narrow roads, I watch my driver's side rear tire in the mirror and keep it close to the stripe. That way, I never worry about the right side even in bumper to bumper traffic in places like San Francisco or construction zones.
We use GRMS radios in some remote campgrounds with the toad going ahead. Also good for backing up at night. Spotter MUST be trained to be in driver's vision at all times and to look UP, not just at ground level when backing. Have seen several people back into tree limbs, gas station overhangs, etc when they had plenty of room at ground level. Do everything slowly.
Your coach will get smaller and smaller each time you drive it until it's not that much bigger than a car. Until comfortable, don't push the envelope.
Pierce
Thanks guys for the advice. I am looking forward to getting to know y'all. Yes I am a southerner living in Columbus, MS. As I have questions I will ask even if it seems dumb. Again Thanks!
Oh, what fun!! Jeff and I had never set foot in an RV before we bought our first ... and it was a Foretravel. We were SUCH dummies! If we could do it, you certainly can. We had no idea how easy it was to just live in such a self contained unit for a few days. If you have an electric hookup, and your tanks are empty and your fresh water is full, you are good for several days with no worries about all the "plumbing" exercises, so you can focus on other stuff first. Staying in the driveway is a WONDERFUL idea. The hand signals for backing in are REALLY important ... but just go slow, and if you aren't sure about something just STOP. Talk, get out and look, and then proceed. We were such novices that we needed help from a stranger to back the thing into a site on our first night on the road! AND, we thought that you needed to hook up your water and sewer EVERY time you pulled into a campsite and dump all the tanks each morning. Ha!! Ask every question ... don't ever feel like anything is too dumb. We have all been there. ENJOY!!!
Welcome! All good info. Foretravels have such huge capacities, in the form of Fuel, fresh water, grey and black tanks, propane, and even electricity. That was one of the draws for me. There is "self contained" with tiny tanks, and then there is the Foretravel version. You can spend a LOT of time completely unconnected to anything. It is a real sense of freedom to be able to just park it and do nothing but press the level button and maybe the generator button...all from the inside. Enjoy your new freedom!
We bought our first DP (diesel pusher) on a whim when our grandchildren (and their parents) moved to a home 800 miles away from us. It was an SOB (Some Other Brand). We enjoyed a couple of great adventures. One adventure was so exciting (and life threatening) that I started looking for more substantial unit. We bought the 1997 U295 36', which was the same vintage and size as the SOB. The difference in was indeed _substantial_. We are pleased that we had to opportunity to experience the difference between brands. We've traveled in temperatures from 0F to 110F. The FT has allowed us to do that in safety and comfort.
We've had the Foretravel four years and are beginning to do some significant upgrades and remodels. We are also planning more and "bigger" trips. We don't plan to full time, but we really enjoy being some timers.
Your plan to camp close to home for starters is excellent. The advice that you have received so far is excellent. If you think you will enjoy the FT experience, spend the money for tires, batteries, and maintenance. Don't try to save bucks by cutting quality. Get to Nacogdoches for service and to meet people. Get to a Foretravel rally and meet your FT "family."
There are Corps of Engineers (COE) campgrounds all along the Tenn-Tom, a couple just outside of Columbus. DEWAYNE HAYES is just about 8 miles away. If you have the Golden Age Passport (or the new one - America The Beautiful, I think) the fee is something like $10-12 per night. Otherwise $20.
HTH
Welcome to ForFums. All good advice above. Take a few basic tools with you. One of the most useful - I think absolutely necessary - is a digital voltmeter. Another is an IR thermometer. Good luck and enjoy!
As you say you are new to RVing, there is some really basic stuff you need to know. Here is a link to Barry Brideau's website that has lots of info both about RVing and Foretravels. Scroll down to the beginning RV section and click on the links. FORETRAVEL Motorhomes service and Repair Information (http://www.beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/foretravel-links.html)
About the black water tank, it needs to be precharged with at least 10 gallons of water before use. You will have to guess at this as a hose is used to do it. It can be done at the bay outside, by connecting the hose to the flush bib for that tank. You have a newer coach than mine, but I think it is similar. Even if connected to a sewer, the black water dump valve needs to be closed except when dumping. Otherwise you get a buildup under the toilet that can dry out and is difficult to remove. Also the precharge water helps keep down odors, and one can wait a few days between dumping even without toilet additives. The grey water dump valve can be left open or closed when connected to the sewer. Best to have it open though if the coach has a clothes washer and it is in use.
I second the motion to try it in your driveway, if it's level. The refrigerator if it is the absorption type (operates on propane or electric) can be damaged if it is operated more than a few degrees out of level for a length of time (see the manual). If not reasonably level it will also stop cooling, but that will not be noticed for awhile. It works fine when driving as the motion of the coach keeps everything going. Some of the newer types will automatically shut off when not level. It takes about 8 hrs or more to cool down when first started. The freezer cools first.
If the coach has been sitting awhile with the propane shut off at the tank, it may take several attempts to get the items that the propane serves to start.
You need some knowledge about air brakes if you have never driven anything with air brakes. After the engine is started it takes a few minutes for the pressure to build and the coach to achieve travel mode. Hope you know that already. The transmission does not have a park detent like a car, so when parked the only thing that keeps the coach from rolling is the emergency/parking brake. The yellow diamond shaped button on the dash. It will not release with low pressure, but it will release with enough air pressure and it is easy to accidentally bump to the off position. A dog has been known to do that as well as adults and children.
Hope this helps keep you safe and is not too basic.
To piggyback on Jerry's advice about the brakes, a set of wheel chocks is a good investment. I bought a cheap pair a few days after we got our coach, more to say I put them out than in hopes that they would really stop a coach that intends to take a header over a cliff. One of these days I'll get to a real truck place and buy a good set.
You may laugh about a coach taking a header over the cliff, but it actually happened. One of the guys over on the Wanderlodge forum bought a new-to-him coach. He was stopped at a rest area and when he came back out his coach was gone and everyone was all excited about the motorhome that rolled off the cliff. Yep, his. Fortunately no one was in it, but it was pretty well demolished, and that's a steel bus.
David has it correct above. HF has excellent pretty tall rubber chocks. They have metal rings so you just have to fasten a poly line linking the two together. We store ours in the tiny compartment the step retracts into. Just fits. The parking brake will not hold on much of an incline so make it a habit to chock. Foretravel factory does it as well as all utilities and public service trucks. Placing one in front and one behind the tire, it's impossible to drive off and forget them.
Allison automatic transmissions don't have a "park" position so the rear cans with their small springs are the only thing between you and disaster.
I have talked to several emergency service drivers who forgot to chock and now everyone tells a story about them.
If you try the parking brake at 20 mph, you can see just how well (or really poorly) it holds.
Pierce
The M11 with a slight press of the pedal will walk even with the brake on.
Thanks Jerry and others for the advice. Nothing is too basic. I did not know about charging the black water tank. We are going to try a night or two at our farm where we keep the FT. I will hook up to water and crank the generator since I only have a 15 or 20 amp hookup. Should I fill the water tank and run pump for this trial or just run of public water? I want to learn all I can about the unit and make sure everything works before taking her out. Thanks
I would fill the fresh water tank and run the coach's water pump. You are then checking the entire internal water supply system. We have been full timing for 13 years we run off the coach's water system all the time whether boondocking or hooked up in an RV park. We turn off the water pump when we leave the coach, less chance of a major water "episode" as the expansion tank only holds a couple gallons of water.
Roland
Dave,
Expect it has a lot to do with idle speed. My idle is OK but with max air, I still have to shift into neutral going down my driveway or I can't stop the rig even with the service brakes fully applied. The engine/trans usually helps the coach slow down with the exception of being stopped with the transmission in gear where it's just the opposite. In normal driving, I can lock up all six if something jumps out in front of me.
We had 10" S cam drums on our late Crown fire trucks. I normally set the Anchorloks 50 feet before stopping while arriving at an emergency but with the 10" drums, it was easy to lockup the back wheels so had to wait until stopped. With the brakes set, it was not going anywhere and letting out the clutch just stalled the engine.
Disk brakes are much less prone to fade and easier to work on but the parking springs on the rear brakes just can't squeeze the disk as effectively as big drums. I could not move my 4107 with the parking brake on.
Setting chocks is good procedure as too many "drivers" get into the habit of just the parking brake until the coach is on enough grade so it starts rolling or the brakes are hot. Some even think hitting the parking brake while moving will "throw everyone through the windshield." Always good to check air pressure before heading down steep grades and keep an eye on the gauge as losing pressure and applying the parking brake won't do much to stop a coach on grades like that.
Pierce
Dave,
I must have written my explanation wrong. Our disc brakes work great in normal use, don't fade, etc. Work great on the decent into Jackson, WY on the alternate road not recommended for RVs and with toad.
My driveway is so steep that I have to back up it. Over 800 feet total with 300 plus looking like an Olympic ski jump. The 6.xx works great in reverse where trying to go forward up it with a 4.xx first gear just heats the torque converter. That's why I sold my 4107 as I could not even come close to going up the driveway. Only about 50 feet.
Compared to a manual transmission, the automatic Allison is putting a lot torque into the rear end at idle. I can lock up anytime I want in neutral even coming down the driveway but with the additional torque against the rear brakes, it won't do it down the ski jump while in gear.
Hey, ask Bill Chaplin about it. Just looking down it from the top is unnerving. Plus there is a small canyon with a creek at the bottom to plunge into if you lose it. With snow on it, we invite the high school ski jumpers to practice.
The fire dept brakes worked very well. Every call was full throttle to max allowable speed on the city streets and then if going against a red light, max braking to almost a stop and then repeated many times on the way to a call. When I say max braking, I mean waiting until the last moment each time and then just short of locking all six up with everyone having their seat belt belt tight. Tires ALWAYS up to max listed pressure. The older trucks with 4 inch drums were marginal until they were retired but the later rigs with drums or disks worked great.
So, you could put bigger cans in the rear but in normal driving, the last thing you want is the rear locking before the front, especially in the rain. (ABS is sure nice) If they do, you are along for the ride as the rear meets the front. With a manual transmission, there is no issue, in fact, compound low is great for decending anything and usually does not even require the service brakes. High idle speed with an Allison while stopped or creeping tests the rear brakes and pointed downhill even more. Forgot to say that when I'm heading down the drive and in gear, the fronts will lock up while the rear pushes and then I have no steering with a drop off on the right side. Will have to make a short quicktime movie of the decent for you flatlanders. ;D ;D ;D
Several YouTube videos of the stopping distance when the Anchorloks/parking brake is applied at different speeds. Every RV operator should view these.
Pierce
I think I better go buy a set of wheel chocks before the upcoming trip. But I've already tested the parking brake. If it's on, and we're in gear, we don't move. i haven't floored it, worrying about Ujoints and such, but giving it enough beans to build boost with the parking brake set makes for some more noise and that's it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding, if the brake is set, have folks had their rigs move when there's a leak and the springs aren't up to the task? Or can your coach move even though air is full up? In any case I think chocks are cheap insurance. Too easy to think up scenarios where the p-brake gets inadvertently released. I'm now thinking I'd be a lot happier if the square yellow button were underneath a mil-spec style flap door, just for that reason. :/ Hmm. Time to fire up the jigsaw and belt sander. Shouldn't be too hard.
Parking brake can be manually operated or comes on automatically if the air pressure drops below a certain point. Air pressure has nothing to do with the parking brake's effectiveness as it is operated by a spring in each rear brake "can" and supplies the force that keeps the brake on. Nothing on the front wheels.
The parking brake will hold on the flat with the engine running and in gear and also on an bit of an incline. There is a point where it won't hold even with the engine/trans in neutral. On really steep parking, I have had to set the parking brake, put it in reverse and then get out to chock the wheel before I shut it down.
If the brakes are out of adjustment, the parking brake may be less effective also. Another reason to chock all the time. With the chocks in the step compartment, it does not add more than a few seconds to put them on each side of a tire.
Lots of small items that make a difference in safety and longevity. Not shutting the engine down for several minutes at a sightseeing spot after climbing a grade will prolong the turbo's life and the engine too.
Entering the pattern, I always say "gear down" and stick out one finger. Turning base, another finger comes out and again out loud, "gear down" and finally on final, a third finger along with "gear down" makes it impossible to land gear up. Same procedures can be used with a RV for parking, shutting down, disconnecting, etc. A couple minutes of discipline will pay off rather than just pulling up, throwing the brakes on and climbing out.
Pierce
Pierce
I have learned over the years of driving unihomes and unicoaches to exercise the disk brakes hard on the beginning and during a days drive. In a safe spot turn off the retarder. Use the brakes hard. From higher speeds. Several times. Only time I use the retarder is when the stopping distances close up in front of me.
The disks are by nature cold blooded. First stop from cold not very impressive. Warmed up they get stronger and stronger. Ahhh. Now we have brakes again.
They cool off fairly rapidly. The retarder is a crutch. Learn how the brakes work without it.
Then the retarder is a safety and shorter stopping distance help.
The air disks warmed up and with no glaze on the rotors/pads from never getting to operating temperature are truly impressive. Lay on the brake pedal hard. As they warm up the coach stops harder and harder. Fun to play with the pedal.
Like I said I am carefull in traffic to have warmed up brakes and the retarder on.
Learn the coaches abilities prior to needing it.
Repeated hard stops several times a day or prior to stop and go use in a town and with lots of practice try it without the retarder. I make imaginary stops a lot. No traffic. Open road. Just to see what happens dead cold or warmed up. And glazed from non use and road water on the system.
Buy a cheap harbor freight infra red temp gauge. Walk the coach immediately after a hour or two drive and point at the wheels and hubs and tires.
Dragging brakes make that wheel hotter. Low tire pressure makes that tire warmer.
Probably why Foretravel went to a retarder as the disc brakes are subject to being cold blooded and the disks and pads get some buildup on them stored.
Without the retarder in a long term stored coach the first stop might be scary if an emergency showed up.
My personal truck takes all day to finally get the heavy duty disc brakes to stop hard and be almost touchy as I am lightly loaded versus its ratings.
Same thing with the Foretravel. The brakes are made for the gvwr without brake assist from the towed. my coach stops fine with warmed up brakes with no retarder and no brake assist at 35,500 actual weight. Impressive. Just push harder.
Oh and check the air system gauges to see if the main chassis air governer is allowing full air pressure. Mine was gummed up and went from 95 to 110 or so.
Now 110-125+ Guess what? The brakes work better with the higher air pressure. Duh
Bob
"Parking brake can be manually operated or comes on automatically if the air pressure drops below a certain point. Air pressure has nothing to do with the parking brake's effectiveness as it is operated by a spring in each rear brake "can" and supplies the force that keeps the brake on."
Good, that's what I remember being taught. So if the thing rolls with that p-brake on it indicates a really steep hill, or a problem that needs adjusting.
Yes or needs deglazing before severe use IMO
Twobus, I would sure like to see that mod.
Bob,
You have it exactly about the retarder or Jake being a crutch. And yes, they do work much better warm. Just because the parking brake holds well in the middle of the day does not mean the next cold morning will be the same. Another reason for making chocking a habit.
Spent a couple of days in Death Valley last month. Big disks were great on the long 9 percent downhills to 395.
Good points all.
Pierce
Never asked if the springs for the safety brakes lose strength of the years?
Bob
I replaced my rear spring/air chambers last summer. I was surprised to find that the larger #30 chambers were not installed stock.
I have also noted that moving the coach cold, in a cramped area, requiring maneuvering back and forth is a white knuckle experience. I too must toggle between in gear and neutral to have control.
Pierce, I can only imagine what you must feel dealing with "dead mans" hill!
I plan to replace my front air chambers this spring. I know I should just go with whats there, and I realize the danger that could come from having spring chambers on the front but, I'm intrigued by the thought of having a additional parking brake force up front that could be rigged to spring brake chambers up front on the small air chambers that mount to the front brakes.
Maybe an additional air control/parking brake button that could be used in reserve?
Just for the sake of discussion;
how much braking force would spring/ air chambers have up front if there was catastrophic air pressure loss?
It seems that the small size of the front air chambers could be overcome without a huge loss of control if the springs deployed from a lack of air pressure while moving.
The additional braking force from spring/air chambers up front might be enough to "help" hold the coach while parked on a incline.
I also suggest trying out at home for a day or so. You may learn some things that you will want/need. If then have questions, you can ask without a real deadline. Also check the age of tires. Cannot rely on their look, check the manufacturing dates. Once you go to the park, wander around and see how others are hooked up and ask why, if not obvious. You will get good ideas that way.
Eric
The larger replacements were larger in the spring side only?
With the short driveshaft probably nothing will fit but a driveline parking brake was on the older gas coaches....
I probably would test turning the rear brake rotors to perfectly smooth to add surface area to the rear brake system as part of optimizing the existing system. New the rear axle chamber brakes I thought held very well. Brought the coach down from highway speed very well when the system was demoed to customers.
Maybe even the rear pads to match the turned rotors?
Two smooth good as possible sets of parts might be enough. And new springs?
Also checking the actuating mechanism for any binding or old grease?
Now I will have to test mine but when the unihomes were introduced I do not remember any reference to weak parking brakes. But the coaches were much lighter then also.
Pads do get glazed from never getting to proper operating temp. Old gillig bus chassis that beaver used never got hot enough in use especially the ten inch wide rear drums and squealed and shuddered in use. Had to be deglazed by pulling off the 300 pound drum with a chain hoist and sand the disk.
As I mentioned here I deglaze my brakes by several full highway speed panic stops in a row without the retarder.
Sometimes it takes multiple stops then cooling them off then multiple hard stops again.
Maybe the opposite happened? Hard stops brought the resin binder to the pads surface?
May not be possible as I have no idea on the pads construction but I have seen this on other brake systems.
If deglazing does not help in think you are on the right track with replacing the chambers.
Quote
I'm now thinking I'd be a lot happier if the square yellow button were underneath a mil-spec style flap door, just for that reason. :/ Hmm. Time to fire up the jigsaw and belt sander. Shouldn't be too hard.
So Royce this is what I did and it works fine. The block is 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" x2" and the slot is 5/8" using the 1 1/4" width to fit the extended button on ours.
JohnH
We also have a parking brake safety block like John's. Others have made them out of PVC pipe & elbows. As long as there is air in rear brake air tank, an off-level coach is at risk parked without a safety block under the dash yellow brake control. There are some good stories where parking brake knob was inadvertently pushed in by adults and kids.
I made my out of schedule 40 3/4inch PVC 1 1/8 inches long with a 5/8 gap cut out of the side, it just snaps over the back of the knob.
Those are both simpler than my milspec cover idea. I've already started in on it or I'd just go this route. Ideally, I'd just switch the lines going to the valve, push to lock brakes pull to release... seems like this would prettynear eliminate the accidental release, but I'm not gonna mess with those. we'll just make it so you really have to want to disengage the brake, that's all.
Jay, I have not thought it out but if you change the lines around would that have an effect on the auto function when air gets low and sets the rear brakes??
JohnH
It *shouldn't*, but I am not inclined to find out. It ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it!
PLEASE....... Don't start changing air lines around and trying to change the operation of the air brake system. All of the components of the brake system are there for a reason and designed to operate in certain ways. If you defeat one part of the system you may find yourself in a world of trouble with other parts of the system. If you don't understand the operation PLEASE get some education about it. Go to a truck driving school and ask if you can sit in on the air brake session or to a competent shop and see if they will show you how the brakes work.
END OF SERMON FOR TODAY
Gary B
I have zero intention of messing with brakelines! Like I said, if they aren't broken I am most decidedly not going to fix them.