Is the floor of the wet bay normally wet? A couple of weeks ago we sanitized the fresh water tank and filled it. A few days later it was empty and the floor was wet. I poked around some and found that the valve to drain the tank wasn't holding, so I replaced it. I couldn't see any other signs of leaks, but I was suspicious of the outside faucet. Monday we took the coach to a local RV dealer because I was worried that it was the tank itself that was leaking. They found that the outside faucet was, in fact, part of the problem, but didn't have a replacement so I had them just remove it and cap the lines. They also found that the water pump was starting to leak, so that was changed. Water inside the coach seems to be working properly, but the floors of the wet bay were dry when we filled the tank and now they have water in them. Somehow I don't think this is normal. Is it?
I have experienced the same problem, wet bay floor, several times. My comment are only pertain to the floor on the left side of the bay. It was not wet in the one with the outside faucet and dump valves. My problem with the fresh water tank bay was once a shutoff valve near the water pump. A second time was due to a water pump connection leaking. The third time was the refrigerator drain pipe, the gray pipe/tube, leaking where it went through the floor. And now if I overfill the fresh water tank I get some water on the floor. If I am careful about overfilling, it is no problem so I haven't fixed the leak in the overflow tube yet.
My guess is it could be any of the above. The main thing is to not let water stand anywhere in the bays. It can leak into the steel frame and create rust.
NO, none of the bay floors should be wet! Find the leak immediately. The internal leaks lead to rusting of the steel frame of the coach.
The leak could be from any of the valves, joints, or fittings. One of the Unicoaches at Quartzsite had a leak at the junction of the fresh water line with the fresh water tank.
I too have had leaks, and fixed them ASAP:
From the bay faucet hot or cold not shutting off, or being knocked on. Installed new cartridges valves. I also added a short 2' hose to the faucet, that takes any drips to the folding down access door in the floor. In addition the short hose works great to get water away from the bay floor when filling the dog's bowl, washing shoes, filling a bucket, or washing off hands.
From a leaking check valve in the park hose attachment. Solved first with a plug. Then replaced the fitting, and still use the plug.
From a leaking water pump. Installed a new pump.
From a leaking water heater hot 120 V. element gasket. Installed a new water heater.
From a number of leaking fittings. Tightened them.
But I make it a habit to check my wet bay areas, daily. We never leave the pump on when leaving the coach. We never leave the coach water hose turned on when away from the coach. We usually fill the tank, and use the 12 volt pump for daily needs. If I happen to hear the pump cycle and have not heard the ice drop in the ice maker, I know I may have a leak to find.
NO, the wet bay should never be wet-- a very good way to rust the rear bulkhead!
Have seen a small drip from water heater drain plug take out a bulkhead. Also, have seen a slight drip from a gray valve take out a rear bulkhead.
Thanks, all. Jo Ann suggested that after I get everything dry I put down paper towels and check them regularly. Sounds like a plan.
On the wall of the little compartment next to the outside faucet is a vent cover. If you remove this cover, you can look at the back of the connections. This is where I found my leak.
Wet bay floor is not normal. Between the top and bottom surfaces of the bottom floor in our coach is wood in some places and Styrofoam in other places. Water leaks will destroy any wood and will rust steel floor frame. All water in all bays must be found and stopped. We use $7 Harbor Freight water alarm to let us know about water leaks. We have many of these cheap alarms around our coach in and out.
Water Overflow Alarm (http://www.harborfreight.com/water-overflow-alarm-92334.html) .
This afternoon I dried out the bay floors. The water tank is still full, so at least that isn't a concern. I suspect that the leak comes from one of the pump connections. Tomorrow I'll verify that the floor is completely dry and then have Jo Ann turn on the pump while I'll watching it. With luck I'll be able to see where the leak is and actually be able to tighten the connection (if that's what the problem really is).
Yesterday I dried out the floor. We didn't turn the pump on at all. Today I found only a little water in the area, mostly in spots that were difficult to get a towel to. With me watching the pump, Jo Ann turned on the pump. I didn't see much by the pump. On the other side of the coach there is a pretty steady drip, drip, drip from the fill point. The plastic cap (plug) is screwed in, but it is still dripping there. Since that fill point is away from the fresh water tank and fairly low in comparison to the tank, I'm guessing that there is some sort of check valve in that line. Might that be leaking? Where is it located?
Yup, sounds like a leaking check valve. Just replace it-- not expensive or difficult to replace.
There are several styles-- here is one: RV City Water Fill Connection - PPL Motor Homes (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/rv-city-water-connection.htm)
Thanks, Brett. I'll get it ordered right after lunch.
I left the pump running and there is definitely more water there now, so I'll go get the towels again. Obviously the problem is related to pressure in the line, so I'll see what I can find.
Screw on a hose on/off valve to stop the flow until you get it fixed.
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And most local RV shops carry those City Valve fill connectors. I just replaced mine. Just a short trip to the local RV dealer. It is a common item.
I would replace the original check valve with a "Sharkbite" check valve. You can order them on line or pick them up at Home Depot, Lowe's, and some Ace hardware stores. But then I am partial to "Sharkbit" fittings.
Roland
Until you get the replacement, turn off the water, depressurize the water system and put a catchment under the water leak.
You may also be able to screw in the nylon cap and/or a metal one to seal off the valve temporarily. It is just a standard female hose fitting, so worse case attach a hose to it and lead out the drop door.
I had the nylon cap in, and it was still dripping around it, so I put a hose on. The new fitting should be here Thursday or Friday, and the weather is supposed to be nice Friday and Saturday for a change, so I should be able to get it fixed.
If yours was like mine on my 93 U225, an easy 5 minute replacement. I was able to take out the 3 mounting screws in the mounting flange, and gently pull the fitting out. The connection from the coach plumbing unscrewed from the bad fitting. The new fitting screwed on, and fit back into the coach wall. New screws into the wall.
Only thing was, I did not know if I needed a female or male fitting. Bought one of each, and I used one, Bill Chaplin's 93 U300 coach needed the other, when his leaked.
"Only thing was, I did not know if I needed a female or male fitting. Bought one of each, and I used one, Bill Chaplin's 93 U300 coach needed the other, when his leaked." I usually take whatever comes with the package, take it home, figure out what more I need to make it work, then go back and get it. I usually need to make another trip to the hardware store too, so I've just gotten used to figuring each project requires three trips to the hardware store. I've tried go guess what I need before the first trip, but I usually buy the wrong thing and have to go back anyway.
I used to keep all of those extra pieces/parts thinking that I'd eventually find a use for them. They're all going on the auction next week.
The new check valve arrived this morning. Do I need to drain the fresh water tank before changing it?
Since I didn't get any responses, I went ahead and tried changing the check valve without draining the tank. The pump has been off for several days, so there should have been any pressure in the system. I loosened the old valve and got a little bit of water, so I put it back on and got the new one all ready (teflon tape on all threads) and went back outside. Took the old valve all the way off and quickly screwed the new one back in. No unwanted shower.
For those who will do this in the future, there was enough (barely) slack to get the entire check valve assembly out without having to remove the mounting panel. The old assembly was held in place by two screws and the new one takes three. Fortunately, one hole on the new assembly lined up with an old screw hole, so I was able to make it stay in place while I dug out the drill (on the bottom of the tool box, of course), found the right bit, and drilled two new holes. It actually took longer to get the drill out and put it away than to do all of the rest of the project.
I had Jo Ann turn the pump on while I looked for leaks. We both had radios, so she could shut it off immediately if necessary. No leaks so far. The pump is still on, but since we're not using any water right now it isn't running. I'll continue to check for leaks for the next day or so, just in case something should turn up.
Well, I still have a leak somewhere. The good news is that it doesn't seem as bad as it was. Before, I had water appearing all over on the floor of the wet bay. Now, it is only on the floor by the water tank on the fill (street) side. The coach isn't absolutely level, though, and that is the low corner of the bay, so maybe it is just what was on the floor back where I couldn't see or reach that is just seeping out. The water level in the tank doesn't seem to be dropping any.
David, Check the overflow tube behind the water heater. They sometimes develop a small hole and will only show a leak when tank is filled to capacity or as the coach corners and water sloshes up into the overflow.This type of spiral formed tubing will develop a pin hole that is hard to find.
Gary B
Thanks, Gary. I'll check that tomorrow. I just checked the floor and it was still wet. The tank is down almost to where it starts sloping, and the coach has been still for several days now, so I wouldn't think any was sloshing out.
I hate to say this, but it almost sounds as if the tank itself is leaking. It can happen. You have not been able to identify where it is actually leaking from???
If the pump is not running and you are not connected to water, then the water you see now may be residual. Operative word "MAY".
Roland
Any chance that there is a hole where the cross bar (I have that on mine) meets the tank and somehow it has rubbed thru the tank?? If it totally stops once level is passed that point Then all odds are there is a hole above that line???
JohnH
I just checked again, and there was water on the floor again, but not as much as when I checked this morning. I'll check it again after supper, and again tomorrow morning. Pat, I'm beginning to suspect the tank, too. Unfortunately, it looks like the only way to check the tank is to remove it, and I'm not sure how that would be done. I may just have to live with it until we can get down to Nac and have the experts check it.
David, I am sure there are members who have done it and cannot be hard, just remove a few things and it will come out. An answer will pop up for sure.
JohnH
I just checked again. The tank is bone-dry around the crossbar. It seems that the small space between the tank and the bulkhead has some water, or at least that is a wetter area. I'll keep checking, and if you have any ideas I'll check them.
It looks like I would have to remove the bay door frame and a small drain line in order to even have a chance to get the tank out. Anyone done this?
Dave,
If you can not identify and fix the leak, drain the tank-- you really don't want the rear bulkhead soaked from the inside!
Brett, I agree with you. I'm pretty well convinced that the tank itself has a small leak, so I've opened the drain. Oh well, we camped for years depending on campground water, and I guess we can continue that way for a while.
Next question: Once the tank is as empty as I can get it, how difficult would it be to try to raise it up a bit? It looks like I'm going to have to take out the accumulator tank (again) just to see what's what on the curb side. What about on the street side? It looks pretty open there. Is there anything that is holding the tank down, other than 800 pounds of water? I don't see anything, but that doesn't mean that there isn't something.
My thought is that maybe tomorrow I could try to raise the tank up a bit and shine a light under it. The other obvious question is what to use to try to raise it up. There probably won't be more than a gallon or two of water left in the tank, and the tank itself doesn't look all that heavy, but might it be stuck to the floor somehow, either by something the factory put in or just from sitting there for 20 years?
Last night I opened the drain and let most of a tank of water drain out. This morning the floor by the tank was still a bit wet when we got up. I wiped up the water and waited to see what would happen. I can raise the tank up a bit, and it looks pretty cruddy under it (understandable if it hasn't been taken out since it was put in 21 years ago), but no more water. There is about an inch of water visible in the tank on the street side. I can't see the bottom of the tank on the street side, but since the drain is pretty close to the bottom of the tank I'm guessing that there isn't much water on that side.
I'm going to see if I can slide a couple of shims under the tank and then slide a dry towel under the tank to see if it is wet. I also can't see how the fill line enters the tank. At least, though, no water comes out through the fill point since I put in the new check valve.
I'm hoping you have found the leak. I would be really surprised if it's the tank. With so many fittings that could be leaking, I think it's likely one of those. I was just looking at this photo of the water pump side of a 95. I see:
* 3 drain ball valves;
* fittings on both sides of the water fill valve as well as the valve body;
* water pump fittings;
* accumulator tank fittings (it's the one next to the water tank);
* water tank exit point;
* lots of PEX fittings.
Good luck on solving this annoying problem!
jor
Look carefully at the junction of the fresh water line with the fresh water tank. The person at Quartzsite found a small split in the water tank reaching out from the fitting. You might try putting a rag or towel around the fitting to see if water is from the spot dampens the rag.
Best wishes for a quick resolution.