Does anyone have an opinion of this type of device? I am thinking that the onboard charger/converter on my '91 GV ORED might be dubious.
12 Volt 33 AMP Regulated ON Board RV Battery Charger | eBay (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180681552161?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649)
Is this even high enough amperage..?
Thanks
I had a 75 amp rated unit in my 93 U225. Of course more output, and cost.
When I replaced my original charger/converter, I was advised to stay with the same output as original unit. You also need to consider the number of batteries on your coach, type of batteries, how you will use your coach, etc. The new tech "Smart" charger/converters take much better care of your batteries - but some are "smarter" than others. This subject has been discussed recently:
New inverter/charger/converter (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19883.msg144993#msg144993)
Absolutely go with a SMART charger designed for RV's. Amp output of more than 40 amps is only important if you dry camp and run the generator to recharge the batteries.
Call most any of the battery manf. reps and they will tell you a smart charger with temp control.
InterActer INTPS1210. Plug in, not for shore power. Does an excellent job of keeping batteries fully charged.
Shore power.. Magnum 2812 Inverter/Charger w/tri-metric to keep track. pc
You don't mention what batteries you will be charging with this charger.
Are they Gel or AGM, which are sealed and need a charger with voltage & temperature control or are they flooded where you can add water, which could use a simpler charger.
What amp-hour (20-hour rating) are they? Smaller battery capacities can work ok with a 33-amp charger.
I replaced my original equipment 75 amp. converter/charger on my '91 with a Progressive Dynamics 9200 series 45 amp. converter w/ smart charger ( $133 ) based on input from the Forum experts. I never dry camp over one night and I eliminated one of my D house batteries and am changing my lighting to LEDs so I think the 45 amp. will be enough. It has worked well for almost a month and it hasn't boiled my battery dry either.
Hi, I have 2 Interstate 8D wet batteries, one Workhouse, and one Deep Cycle.
We like to dry camp a fair bit.
Even with both batteries being recently tested, and 1 only a couple of weeks old, my batteries are running down right away. Vampire draw of some sort? I am plugged in at home (15 amp house service), so I would think that the charger is running, but perhaps it is toast. I have driven it a bit lately, and the other night, I could barely start the Genny, which after a couple of minutes gave me enough juice to start the engine.
The Magnums look nice, but at more than 10% of my coaches value, are an unlikely purchase.
When I plug in, I can hear a thunk, and the converter starts to make its usual humming noise.
The battery issue on this thing will drive me nuts (kill me) yet...
Thanks
Dave,
Pull out your digital voltmeter and tell us the readings at each battery bank:
With shore power disconnected.
With shore power connected or generator running.
With engine running.
Something is rotten in Denmark!
Voltages
Deep Cycle. Workhorse
Unplugged. 13.03 5.72
Plugged. 12.96 11.74
Genny. 12.63 12.74 (high 12.78)
Engine. 12.60 5.6 (boost on)
Engine. 12.64 5.36 (boost off)
AARRGGHHH!!!
Hard to believe BOTH converter and alternator both went out at the same time.
This looks like it could be crusty rusty loose connections. Starting at the alternator, disconnect the wire, clean and lightly sand the terminal with emery cloth until copper surfaces are shiny. Do all connections at the isolator, all battery terminals, converter and boost relay terminals. This may seem like a lot of work, but you might be surprised with the result.
Seems a sensible suggestion; I will redo all connections tomorrow. They 'look' fine, but I know that can be deceptive as heck...
Thanks
Dave
Report back with the same voltage measurements, and with engine idling, also measure voltage at alternator post, and all three isolator posts (if there are 4, 2 will be connected together).
Is your chassis battery a wet cell with removable caps? If so, you can use a floating ball tester to measure the charge level. Verify all cells are approx equal, and have enough water.
Dave, word to the wise. Be very careful checking those isolator connections. I had to buy a new one because one of the post broke off. Terrible location for electrical connections. I believe Brett said he moved his isolator inside under the bed. Think I will do the same thing.
Jerry
Moving the isolator is ok, but keep in mind the currents are high (longer wires will drop more voltage) and isolator needs airflow for cooling.
At least on the 1993 U240, not wire splces/changes were needed to relocate everything behind the driver's side rear tire to the "electrical compartment" at the foot of the bed.
My Isolator looks in pretty good condition, as does the charger/convertor. In fact, both look like they might be replacements, there are extra holes near the charger in the septic bay that don't make sense, unless it was replaced, and the mounting needed to change slightly, although on a 23 year-old coach, One never knows.
Isolator is a 3 post.
One odd thing; sometimes when I first fire up the Genny, if I turn the Boost Switch 'Off', the Genny shuts down right away. Why would that occur..?
Thanks
Dave
Dave,
Again, get voltage readings at the isolator with engine off and then on.
The two outer lugs are to the two battery banks.
The center one from the alternator.
With engine off, the outer lugs should read battery voltage (12.2 VDC= 50% discharged, 12.7= fully charged).
With engine running, the center lug should be 14+ and the two outer lugs approximately .7 VDC less.
Yes, Brett, perfect suggestion. Just curious Dave, did everything work well at one time, or is this coach new to you or any work done recently on the 12 volt system? It's sounding like something might be mis-wired?
Hi, we bought the coach last Summer. Initially it was all good, then a couple of days later we had to get a jump, but that made sense as it had been stored briefly, and the terminals were super loose. Tightened them, and all seemed good. Before a big trip in August, we bought a new battery as one of the 8D's seems dubious, and we took the 'better safe than sorry' approach. At $400-ish bucks that wasn't super happy, but made sense. 14,000 long trip and we only had to get jumped once, and that also seemed logical as we were dry camping for 4 or 5 days, and I, most likely, didn't run the engine (at all), or the Genny very much. Jumped easily, and the balance of the trip was problem free.
Got home, and parked the RV for the Fall and Winter (plugged in), and started having issues starting, some times there would be enough juice to start the Genny, then I could put a surface charge onto the batteries and start the coach. My battery warranty was almost up, so I took both in for a checkup, and they tested fine, but since one was coming up on warranty, Interstate replaced it just to be safe.
Now, it seems that I should be able to have the coach unplugged for days at a time and still be able to start the coach, even it it means using the Boost switch now and then. Not so much; I am having trouble starting it even after short periods unplugged and with little having been used to discharge the battery, let alone batteries.
All connections, so far, are good, tight and clean. I am loath to start cutting ends off and redoing the connections as I have a back bad, and these days, even short amounts of leaning down and such are killer :(
Thanks
Dave,
A proper diagnoses is needed before you need to start cutting things apart.
Dave:
Good rundown of the coach history. I agree, before you take apart or replace anything, you need to trouble-shoot and eliminate.
Couple of comments.
It is not normal to need a jumpstart even after dry camping for several days. The isolator should prevent discharging the chassis battery. The boost switch will allow you to get the genny going if house batteries are low.
From everything you have mentioned, the isolator and charging systems are suspect. I'm thinking you will need an RV shop to do some trouble-shooting. Stay away from automotive or truck repair shops - they don't understand RV isolator/alternator function and will give you bad advice. Good luck.
Hi, I just bought (can't hurt to modernize) a PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS PD9280. Was too good a price too pass up..
I might also buy a new 200 amp isolator, as I see better tech available there as well, and for the price; allows me to improve that suspect item. Can always sell the old stuff, if it tests alright.
Anything else worth looking at..?
Thanks
Dave
I'm guessing that your problems will lessen once you get that nice PD charger up and running. The Charge Wizard will ensure that your coach batteries are charged fully and properly. You then might consider installing an inexpensive battery tender such as the Trik-L-Start which should keep your starting batteries charged too. Then you can move on to doing some step by step diagnostics. Good luck.
jor
Dave,
If budget is no object, replace them. If it is, identify the problem and fix/replace it.
I agree that a smart charger is a good upgrade, but would only replace an isolator and other components if defective (and there are other less costly ways to do its function).
Put battery minder 1500, vs Trik l start, better reliability plus built in desulfator. One for entire start battery bank. Approved for optimas , had temp compensation if you want to add probe.
Tim,
Totally agree. I actually have one for each bank to provide desulfation:
BatteryMinders 1500 (chassis batteries) and 2010 (house batteries)
12v Battery Charger, Battery Desulfator, Battery Maintainer, Charger (http://batteryminders.com/)
Brett,
Looking at this, since we fulltime-and are plugged in most of the time.
Would I not use the existing charger on the house battery or use both at same time? ::)
Put the "$25 wizbang desulfator) off Amazon one each on the house batteries in Sept. will be interested to see how capacity was effected when I test this spring
I have both the desulfator and built-in inverter/charger charging while on shore power. Both are "smart" and the desulfator is only 2 amps.
Brett,
Thank you, understood ^.^d
I added one of these recently;
Free Shipping Auto Pulse Desulfator FOR Lead Acid Batteries Battery Regenerator (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Free-Shipping-Auto-Pulse-Desulfator-for-lead-acid-batteries-battery-regenerator-/281280671599?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item417da26f6f&_uhb=1)