New to us ... 97 U295 40'.
DW and I owned (SOB) that was 30 amps. Our Foretravel is 50 amps. Because the owner we purchased from recently had a stroke, we did not have the luxury of a complete walk thru, and the typical questions answered.
We really appreciate this site, the willingness of everyone to welcome newbies, and the knowledge and advice so freely given!! Thanks in advance....
1) When plugged into 110, can we operate just 1 A/C if needed?
2) When coach is parked and not being used for a couple of weeks or more, and not using the leveler,
should we dump all the air, or just leave the air bags filled?
Any other tips or advice would sure be welcome!
Welcome Jay,
As long as you are "plugged into" 50A you have full use of all the equipment and systems, YES 1 AC unit is fine they are controlled by 2 seperate thermostats.
IF your plugged into a 110-15A outlet from your house, you are limited just as you are in your house. ^.^d
Don't be afraid of your generator, use it. Take care of fluids and filters it will last 1000's of hours.
Personal preference on air dump or not, I do. You will find many many answers and experience, choose yours and use your Coach!
Good luck :D
Congrats on your purchase. Welcome to the forum.
I am not sure about running the AC on a 110. You would need a larger breaker I would think.
As to the leveling system I think it is a matter of preference. If you are not plugged in and want to leave it level I would level it then Turn it off. I park my coach on a level spot, so I dump the air this keeps the coach low and easier to get into.
Jerry
Welcome!
What do you mean by "plugged into 110?" That could mean a 15, 20, 30, or 50 amp outlet. The "native" 50A RV outlet could be wired as 240 volts between the two "hot" terminals, or 0 volts between the two "hot" terminals with 120 volts from each to neutral. If you are on a 20 amp connection, you can probably run one air conditioner and pretty much nothing else. On 30 amps, you can run one air conditioner and maybe some other devices. On a 50 amp connection, you can run both air conditioners and many other devices.
Will you be near the coach when it is parked? Is the site level? Do your air bags hold the coach level for a long period of time without adjustment? Will the refrigerator be on?
If the coach is plugged in, be sure all batteries are being charged properly. It may require the addition of some device to maintain the chassis batteries. Your coach may or may not have such a device. If the coach is not plugged in, it is prudent to disconnect the negative terminals of the batteries if parked more than two weeks.
We leave our 1997 U295 plugged in when it is parked. The refrigerator stays on and the HVAC system is set to maintain inside temperature in the 45-85F range. We leave the air bags inflated and the level system on. The coach is very near our home and we see it pretty much every day. Your situation is likely to be different and may affect your choices.
Use the search function to look for answers to your questions. If you don't find the answers, ask away.
J D
Thanks for your post .... and the helpful information. What I meant by "110" ... is ... if I am not in an RV park with a 50 amp plug in .... am just visiting a friend who lets me plug into a regular house outlet ... will I be able to use just one A/C if needed. My RV is in a secure undercover storage spot. They have regular 110 plug ins. I go from my 50 amp cord, to an adaptor, to a 3 prong typical extension cord.
Thanks Again
Then it all depend on the rating of the circuit breaker, and what else is in use on the circuit.
Welcome to the forum. Enjoy the new step up to a Foretravel.
As mentioned, most of us think of 110v. as like a household wall plug. Most all those are going to be either 15 amp, or maybe 20 amp. That is not going to be enough for AC units to be able to start. We have run our battery charger and refer, and sometimes get away with the micro wave. In our last storage space we shared a 15 amp breaker with 3 other coaches on battery chargers.
Your Foretrave coach cord a 50 amp, and will carry both AC's and more. You might camp where you use an adapter to hook up to those older state parks they often only have 30 amps.
We have camped in Port Aransas TX in July and August, and have been able to cool the coach with only one unit. We use the AC at the other end of the coach we are not using, works well.
You will find your generator will carry everything, it is sized to the whole coach's needs.
We never dump, as we seem to get really lucky with level parking. That we have a rare mid door helps as well. We also carry a folding step unit.
Hi, one key to power usage is being able to effectively draw the power rated (ie. 1,800 watts, 15 amps for a normal house outlet). Be sure to run a thick, heavy power cord, as small cords cannot run a full circuit, they also then heat up and are even less efficient, and create possible adverse risks. Fire.
There are many, many adapters available to deal with a myriad of possibilities. I sometimes have plugged an adapter into a welding or dryer (220v) plug to access a larger amperage circuit.
I can run one AC off of a 15 amp circuit, on low to medium usage, full pops the circuit. That said, part of that problem arises from that outlet being on a GFI/GFCI trip-able breaker.
Have fun with your new toy/nemesis/mistress...
Dave
Plugged to a "normal household outlet" you are not likely to be able to run an air conditioner. You should be able to run the battery charger(s) and the refrigerator. If you visit the coach infrequently, you may want to defrost the refrigerator, dry it thoroughly, and store it with the doors open. In a situation such as yours, I would leave the leveling system turned on in automatic mode.
If plugged in, even on a 15 amp circuit, the battery charger (converter) should maintain the house batteries. However, original wiring on your coach did not include a good way to maintain the chassis (start) batteries. I use a 5 amp Battery Tender. Other solutions include Battery Minder, manual switch to link the battery systems, "Boost" switch, and Trik-L-Start. Search the archives for discussions.
Be sure your batteries are appropriate matched, maintained, and have clean connections. They are expensive to replace. Again, search the archives for information. Find out whether you are using gel, AGM, or flooded cell batteries, and make sure your charger settings are appropriate for the batteries.
Lots of folk get along fine without knowing any of the technical and maintenance stuff. Your experience will probably be better with some understanding of the systems.
However you choose to operate, try to be safe and enjoy it! Join Motorcade Club and attend some gatherings. You'll meet some great people!
Oops.... 120 volts times 15 amps = 1800 watts... And A/Cs need what...3500-4000 watts to start?
That would be a BIG roof A/C.
Most are on 15 amp breakers in the coach main breaker box.
If so, and its capacitor(s) are in good condition AND voltage is over 110 VAC, AND nothing else is on including charger section of the inverter/charger, refrigerator on gas, etc it will run.
I have run one roof air and charger (with topped off batteries) on 15 amp circuit
Doesn't mean it is a good idea...
I used a long heavy duty 110 volt extension cord with my old U280 when I had to stay at the house of a neighbor of my parents. It had a hard time running that 110 volt air compressor and I ended up having to unplug the compressor as it kept stumbling and unable to start. Startup amperage can be a lot higher than just running a motor. Line loss gets to be important on long extension cords, that's for sure.
There
Welcome Jay, for the most part it's been my experience that a "House" outlet 15-20 amps is only good for your battery charger, and fridge if you leave it on. As others have said you need a good 12 gauge extension cord. 30A outlet will run 1 ac along with the battery charger and so on. As far as dumping the air your preference, I just level mine then turn the key off, and turn off the level system. I suppose if I had to store mine away from the house I would dump the air, and turn the level system off.
My coach is kept around the side of my house, tethered to a dedicated 20A breaker and a 20' extension cord, 12AWG with a 20A rated twist-lock plug and receptacle.
All this for good reason. I found out the hard way a longer/thinner cord, a normal 15A plug and receptacle didn't stay connected or had too much voltage drop.
With this setup I can run one roof ac unit as long as the charger is throttled down to minimum or the batteries are at float, and the refrigerator and water heater are not using ac power.
Good points about the AWG on the cords. AC motors don't like low voltage and start heating as it drops. Anything with a high startup draw takes longer with low voltage and generates much more heat doing it. I bought one of these to run my big jackhammer: 25 Ft. 10 Gauge Triple Tap Extension Cord (http://t.harborfreight.com/25-ft-10-gauge-triple-tap-extension-cord-66495.html)
Pierce
Wire sizes bring back something that happened here yesterday. Neighbour has a 30a outlet for his 5 er and this is connected to one breaker that is 70amp. His Casa is fed off this same box but is connected to 2 70amp breakers (one of these also supplies his 5th wheel). He had a Mexican electrician who is working on a home here install a 50amp RV outlet as his 5 er is wired for 50 (prewired for 2nd a/c, although only 1 on it right now)
He called me over to ask why only 1/2 of his outlets etc were working now, so I looked at it and asked what had they done!! I realized then that only 1 leg was hot and explained to difference to him between 30 and 50 a wiring. The mexican had also wired the grnd to Nuetral and I told him to take that jumper off right away as it was dangerous. Once he understood the difference from house to trailer wiring he did it. There was an extra wire in the box so he tapped off the other breaker to give 2-feeds for the 50amp outlet. All working fine now EXCEPT that the wire size for these lines is only #14 !!!!! I told him to go get some 8 or 6-4 conductor right away and change that over. Amazing what people do and all the time he did not bother to turn off power while doing all this. I walked away after warning them both.
JohnH
John, I hope there are some significant fire breaks between your stuff and his stuff. His is bound to catch fire at some time. Imagine what he might have done that you haven't seen yet! :facepalm:
Ya gotta laugh, I make more money due to bright bulb dumb butt wannabee electricians than from god and lightening strikes, keeps everyone employed. :o
Dave M
Do you know what is more insane? In all the years and zillions of miles travelled in this great country I have yet to see a fire from this kind of situation!! Amazing but true. This was the main reason I went solar at first. Have to admit there are a lot of badly wired RV parks in US and Canada too.
JohnH
Thanks one and all for your replies ..... you guys have forgotten more than I seem to know .....
I appreciate your help ^.^d
I bought a 100' 10awg ridgid cord. $130. The best. Less voltage drop. No heating. I have a 12awg ridgid also. The flexibility the ridgid shows means more finer wires. Electricity is conducted on the wires surface. More wires. Less resistance.
Bob
Good chart for comparing extension cords. Length, size, amps and percent loss.
http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Links_files/extension-cords.pdf (http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Links_files/extension-cords.pdf)
Pierce