While taking a short trip today to get fuel, maybe 40 miles. On the return trip about 5 miles from our destination I started to smell the brake pad smell. I pulled the coach to the side of the road and detected some smoke coming from our left front wheel. Upon further inspection, light smoke was coming from the brake pad. Got out the trusty flashlight and really couldn't see anything. Appears to have plenty for brake pad material left and no scoring on the rotor. We sat at the side of the road for a number of minutes and tapped the brake pad caliper with the back of the flash light a number of times. Had the DW release the parking brake and pressed the brake pedal many cycles and saw nothing moving. Appears that the pads always at least lightly touch the rotor. Drove about two more miles a a moderate speed and stopped again. No smoke. Drove the last 4 or 5 miles and parked her and no smoke. Did not have any pulling to the left at all.
Having found the Meritor Brake document on Barry's website- the Diagnostic page and determining that the rotor does not appeared to be scored or checked. I was wondering if any of you have experienced this and what was your solution? As always appreciate your input. :-(
Scott:
I had a similar issue. I noticed that my right front wheel was hotter to the touch that the left front wheel after driving for awhile. I purchased one of those laser IR temp guns and found that the right disk was reading a much higher temperature than the left. I took my coach into the shop and they discovered that the right caliper was frozen. They serviced both front brakes and now all is well.
@Scott this is not uncommon with the Meritor brakes. The brakes can hang on the slide pins. A lot of people (I'm one) have installed the Meritor helper springs to encourage the pads to move away from the discs. Also it's a good practice to depress the brakes fully to exercise them before driving off. This will help to keep the slide pins clean. It is one of the last steps I do before hitting the road. With the retarder a lot of folks tend not to use the brakes much. A little exercise for them is a good thing.
Others on the forum have "adjusted" their brakes with a hammer to get them to move back into position. Proceed at your own risk! :)
Sounds like they came back on there own or maybe the flashlight blows did the trick.
see ya
ken
I've seen this movie too. I ended up replacing the pads and the related parts. Pins,etc. If you do this on your own get the parts from a commercial truck parts place Meritor parts are expensive so some smart shopping will pay off..
Ken - Thanx for your comments. I'll give you a call tomorrow.
andyr - Thanx - I might give you a call too if you PM me your #.
Yes, common practice when servicing the brakes to install new helper springs to keep the "lazy side" from dragging.
I had all my pins replaced and helper spring put on when I changed my pads. In fact I had them changed all the way around. I had a sticking front brake about three years ago. I too push the pedal all the way down fully prior to starting out.
Must the wheels be removed to clean, lubricate and install the helper springs?
Scott, my left front did the same thing. I had a stuck caliper pin (top). After inspection I found the pin was severely pitted and corroded. I guess the PO did not service the brakes as required.
I went ahead and replaced that pin and a couple of others. Also added the helper springs.
After this I thought the calipers were still too snug against the rotors, so I adjusted all of the slack adjusters. So far all is good. The hardest part is getting the wheels off.
Yes you have to take the wheels off
:-(
I also experienced a smoking hot left front brake - 470F. I freed it up by pounding the caliper with a hammer. It did continue to stick until I cleaned the pins.
First, I cut strips of scrub cloth to clean the pins without removing them.
Later I removed/cleaned/reinstalled all the pins and replaced four that were pitted.
It is possible to remove the lower pins without removing the wheel, and all the pitted pins I replaced were in a lower spot. However, the threaded bolt hole used to attach a slide hammer cannot be used with the wheel on and these pins can be very difficult to remove. I did manage to get mine all out using just a bolt and a claw hammer. I believe it was Dave M who described a many hour task involved in removing one of his pins.
I also installed the helper springs.
Check your rear brake pads because some folks here have reported pads worn very unevenly on the rear.
I purchased pins on eBay for about $50 each, while I was quoted $100 each at a truck part supply.
Purchased 4 kits, 2 springs per kit from FinditParts. com for $18.76 per kit/set + 2 day delivery = $101 +. Will find authorized service center for the service and install as I have no way to Jack wheel and remove wheel. It's all good.
Thanks everyone for your assistance.
Scott,
I just had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago. Taping on the end of the pins freed my calipers and I continued the trip.
When I got home I pulled the wheels and replaced the pins, added the springs and adjusted the brakes. What I found was the previous owner, either himself or repair facility used anti seize on lock pins and it had gottento the pins and was very sticky. Most of the pins could have been cleaned and reused, but the lower fronts looked the worst. I found the kits on Ebay for a very good price.
Went for a test ride Sat. and the brakes were much improved.
Good luck with the repair.
Jerry
Thanks for the response Jerry. I have 4 spring sets coming and have found a local mechanic on standby to pull the wheels, pins and install the helper springs. We will attempt to clean the pins and replace. I figure it will take aprox. 4 hours +/- to do the job. Springs should be here Wed. so tentatively we are set for Friday AM. ;)
If you do the required maintance, meaning cleaning the pins, you should never have a. Dragging caliper, of course the spring kit is a nice touch.
My pads. & rotors at 104 k miles still look new.
Dave M