Put fresh water in the tank today and when it was full I turned the water fill switch off and the pump kept running. Disconnected the fresh water hose from the spicket and the water was running out the end of the fill hose. Activated and deactivated the Water Fill Switch both in the wet bay and under the sink numerous times and the pump kept running. When I turned the water on in the kitchen or elsewhere the flow was low. Guess the pump is sucking air and a little water. Turned the water pump off and will have to supplement for Roland flushing.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Based in first person experience (BTDTGTTS), there's a good possibility it's the fresh water inlet check valve.
In Jeff and Carol's 2002 it was at the base of the Manabloc (nice and easy to replace). In our 2003 it was behind the siliconed-in back panel of the wet utility bay (not nice and easy).
Gee Michelle - Thanks. - What does (BTDTGTTS) mean? :D
Nice to see I am remembered........I Think :-\
Roland
Been there, done that, got the T shirt... :))

Roland you are etched in our minds forever........ :))
Scott,
Water running back out the disconnected hose sounds like the check valve for the hose is not working. I took mine apart (behind the Manabloc panel) and found the shuttle was out of position. A mild case of waterline freezing will cause this problem too.
The pump running continually sounds the fill valve is open when the pump is turned on.
Michelle - You are toooooo much...... :)) Think you can you rustle up a picture of this thing that is causing me trouble? We are getting under way on the 23rd of this month. Would like to have it repaired by then.
Michelle - you must be reading my mind. Thanx. ;)
M - Not sure what the pics show????
been there done that got the t shirt
The check valve is the brass fitting on the floor to the left of the black pipe.
Mine acted exactly that way when my fill valve stuck open with a small piece of debris in it. bought a new valve installed and problem solved. valve was kind of buried on my coach
I had my fill valve go bad too. The old ones had a brass top that had a magnet in it. The new ones have a manual override.
My fill valve caused problems and it wasn't hard to fix, just frustrating. Had it apart several times before finally getting it to work. There was the smallest sliver of thread tape that was apparently covering the small orifice sometimes keeping it from relieving pressure in the chamber to open the valve.
Sometimes the tank wouldn't fill and sometimes it would run over. Now it's fixed with zero investment other than my time which isn't worth much on the weekends.
John S & Rick - Where were your fill valves located and what do they look like?
Thanks..
Did a search on Water Fill Valve and found a bunch of threads. Guess I'll take some panels off and replace the check valve (seems I can get one from Ace) and get a better look at the fill valve. Looks like it is located next to the pump.
Good place to use a Shark Bite check valve. I usually have a check valve, end stop, couplings and a bit of pex tubing on hand in my on board plumbing supplies.
Roland
Hey Roland -
Saw your shark bite solution on another thread. :) I must first locate the check valve and then determin, what shark bites to get then how to do it. Still have some Pex left from your adventure. :D
Thanx.
Tim -
Found your thread dated: Oct 2011. Am studying it now and will try. Thank you.
The attached pic is - I believe to be the water fill valve assy??
Just for question sake what is the other electrical thing?
We had that happen a few years ago on a trip. I just capped off the water inlet to keep the water from running out. After a few water fills the check valve was freed up and working fine ever since. I think the CG in Chicago had some really dirty water that plugged up the check valve. Maybe a vinegar type flush of the system would free up the valve.
Mark
Fresh water check valve pic?
Mark - How did you cap off the water inlet? How did you know which hose to cap??
Michelle - Thanks.
It's a plug in the facet end of the hose. Mine was dripping so I put one of these on the end.
Keith
I forgot that I capped it off to get by till I fixed it
Inlet hose for shore hook up, got plug that fit hose end, allowed system to pressurize using coach pump
Our fill valve is right behind the water pump.
Replaced the check valve. There were a couple of small pebbles that I presume were not allowing the check valve to seat. The check valve was located in the Manifold bay. Turned street water on and fresh water tank is filling whether or not the water fill switch is on. Guessing defective water fill valve. It appears that the water fill valve allows water to flow both ways??????
Draining fresh water tank so I can remove the Fill Valve, disassemble, clean and replace.
Thoughts?????
Call me. 405-249-8157. I am about to go in to eye appointment so will call you back if I miss the call.
Rick
Replaced check valve using shark bites and off the shelf check valve. Removed the fresh water fill valve, opened it up per Tim F's. wonderful instructions dating to October 2011. Replaced a couple of water hoses and it is all working great.
I can't thank all of your enough for the comments that you have made and the phone calls received in assisting us in identifying the problem and helping to fix it.
I know I have said sooooooo many times but I will say it again.................
We could not be doing what we do without the help of you FoFum members. We are so grateful for your input and support. I again thank all that have gone befor us.
We will continue to pay it forward when we can...
Thanks again so much......................
Scott, Carol & Harley the spring dog.. ^.^d
Update - I am a plumber no more. >:(
After trying 2 different check valve set-ups, one plastic and one brass, I still had a constant drip, drip, drip on either side of the fresh water check valve. We would get this dripping, about 2 drips every 5 seconds when on street water or when the water pump was on. Tried tape, pipe dope and tape and pipe dope to no avail. After almost 2 days of driving back and forth to the local hardware store - 15 miles each way - and trying 3 different types of fixture assembly, I followed my good friend Roland's advice and got shark bite fittings. Instead of using a shark bite check valve I used a ball valve. No shark bit check valve available. I will keep my eyes open for a shark bite check valve, but in the meantime no more leak. All i have to remember is to open the valve when filling the fresh water tank or when using street water and of course turn it off when we get underway.
Pics attached -
Roland you have saved the day again. ^.^d
Thanks avery one for your help.
Scott,
I notice that you used standard "close" nipples into and out of your new check valve. If I need to use "close" nipples, and I have the room, I buy "hex nipples". They allow you to tighten the nipple independently into the first part and hold it when installing the next part. This might get you back in the plumbing game sooner than you like. Most all big box home stores have them as well as local Ace etc.
Your manual ball valve is pretty much fool proof, I replaced all of my check valves with ball valves several years ago.
Good luck,
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Thanks Rick -
I no longer have the feel to determin when a threaded joint is tight and sealed. The Shark Bites are great. Unfortunately I forgot about them in this application. Wasted about $60+/- and lots of time. Oh well - live and relearn. :))