#2 question; the entry system was working 3 days ago and no longer works. No wiring work was done or any other changes save driving, and plugging in once. There was a problem plugging in, no shore power until a very helpful neighbor flipped the "salesman" switch.
I found the unit in the panel in front of the passenger seat. The 10 amp fuse is good, there is a hole in the box marked Custom Engineered Vehicle something or other, where there is a yellow square thing, which when pushed activated the locks once, but never again.
Is there anything I can do with this or check further to find a solution. I have opened all the latches with a key and none of them are "stuck". Thanks very much. Tom and Mary
Mine was the wires going into the door and the door jam. They came apart.
FOT just repaired mine and the problem was a cut wire where the wires go thru the entrance door.
DAN
Tom, have you tried the rocker switch on the panel with the retarder, to the left of the driver chair? I guess that is on each coach, but do not know. I can push that rocker switch and lock everything. If that switch works or not may help you diagnose the situation?
Mike
Yes. Thank you Mike, I thought later about that switch and tried it. Yes it does exactly that; locks and unlocks all the doors. So, I wonder if that means the problem is with the signal from only the fobs? I'm wondering too if the wireless doorbell is interfering...it was not before, but I did get it working with fresh batteries. Also thinking about my wireless WIFI I have going most of the time and will experiment with those two items.
The wires in the door jam have been checked out and are fine as is the fuse. I put a new battery in one of the fobs. No luck yet.
My fob has always been hit or miss on unlocking the entry door, fine on everything else, including locking that door. Both panel mounted switches always work. This tells me that the wireless receiver doesn't send as many volts or amps to the locks. The simple solution would be to add a relay.
When my coach was painted, the door was removed, the wiring between door and body got cut off with side cutters, that fried the controller. Had MOT install new control system, been working great since.
The controller, new door push button pad, 2 new key fobs, all good within 50' of coach.
I figure you can fix it or play with it, your choice.
Also I do not know everything, but know who does, Xtreme, FOT, MOT & Rudy ;D
I think most options have been covered. I might add one other possible on door itself. The dead bolt portion on ours jammed for lack of a better term. Took the door panel off and the lock assembly was all messed up. We made several adjustments and finally go it working correctly. Whoever designed the lock system must have been a complicated person! Very complicated engineering. Appears as though it could have been made a lot more user friendly. Looks like it is an area to have problems without a lot of effort especially with door shutting vibrations.
All of the other locks were working fine during this.
David
I also put new batteries in the fobs (push button thing). Batteries will go down and need to be replaced. DAN :o