With the possible exception of the smallest Cummins engine (B), all diesel (Cummins, Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel) all have the same coolant requirements. A phone call a few minutes ago from a Foretravel owner points out that this is NOT common knowledge by those new to diesel engines. And, the very last coach I did a mechanical inspection on had a messed up coolant-- it was OAT-based coolant to which someone had added a coolant filter with 12 units of SCA.
Let's divide coolant typed into three:
Regular Prestone, etc for your car= high silicate coolants= NOT acceptable for diesel engines.
"Low silicate for diesel coolant with added SCA (Supplemental Cooling Additive)". Acceptable, SCA needs to be tested and added annually (it is sacrificial and needs to be replenished). Three year life. SCA can be added by liquid or by coolant filters with "units" of SCA.
The new generation OAT-based coolants (Caterpillar ELC, Texaco ELC, Fleetguard ES Complet OAT, etc). Nothing to test or add unless over 300,000 miles. 6 year/600,000 life. It is critical that ONLY coolant filters with ZERO units of SCA be used. You do NOT add SCA to OAT-based coolants.
Each of your engine owners manuals will give the same chapter and verse.
Again, do NOT use regular car coolant. Do not add SCA to OAT-based coolant and do not forget to test and add SCA to regular diesel coolant.
Change per manufacturers recommendation for the kind of coolant you have.
Brett
Brett ---- Thanks for this info ---- several years ago I changed coolant to an Extended Life Coolant (ELC) and am presently having the coolant checked for proper additive concentration by a trucking co. Thanks again and have a great day ---- Fritz
Fritz,
Make sure that the test strips are for the specific kind of coolant you have.
Said another way, the three way (SCA concentration, freeze point and pH) designed for "low silicate coolant for diesels with added SCA will NOT, repeat NOT give meaningful information for OAT-based coolants.
There are test strips for the OAT-based coolants, but they are not the "regular" coolant test strips.
Also, make sure that the test strips have not expired-- they have a "use by" date on them-- this is important.
For regular diesel coolant, these are the test strips I use-- problem, they come in a box of 12 and will expire before any one person can use them: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=24105 (http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=24105) Have probably tested 200 cooling systems over the years. Again, these are NOT for the OAT-based coolants.
How do you tell which one you have? When did the OAT-based coolants come into existence? Is the life expectancy mostly a time thing? (Do they "expire" even if engine not run?) What were the consequences for the engine with the messed up coolant? (Engine would be ruined, or just a matter of replacing coolant?) Thanks for your knowledge and willingness to share it!
Answer in SOLID LETTER CAPS
BRETT
How do you tell which one you have? VERY DIFFICULT UNLESS ORIGINAL, AS COLOR IS NOT A GOOD WAY-- NO CONSISTENCY IN COLOR BETWEEN DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER. AND AS ALREADY MENTIONED, EACH COOLANT TYPE HAS UNIQUE SERVICE REQUIREMENTS-- PUTTING 12 UNITS OF SCA INTO AN OAT-BASED COOLANT IS BASICALLY A CONTAMINANT AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED. MANY TECHS DO NOT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN COOLANT CHEMISTRIES AND/OR JUST ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE "REGULAR DIESEL COOLANT". MOST FORETRAVELS DO NOT HAVE THIS TYPE OF COOLANT.
When did the OAT-based coolants come into existence? I BELIEVE IN THE MID 1990'S. I KNOW FORETRAVEL USED TEXACO ELC AND PUT A LABEL ON THE COOLING SYSTEM OVERFLOW RESERVOIR STATING THAT.
Is the life expectancy mostly a time thing? (Do they "expire" even if engine not run?) NOT A CHEMIST, BUT SUSPECT THAT BOTH AGE AND MILES ARE INVOLVED, AS MOST GIVE SERVICE INTERVALS WITH BOTH MENTIONED (JUST LIKE OIL CHANGES)
What were the consequences for the engine with the messed up coolant? (Engine would be ruined, or just a matter of replacing coolant?) Thanks for your knowledge and willingness to share it! IF A LINERED ENGINE (WHICH IS ALL ENGINES USED IN FORETRAVELS EXCEPT CUMMINS B, DETROIT DIESEL 8.2 AND CATERPILLAR 3116/3126, THE CYLINDER WALLS WILL ERODE AND ALLOW COOLANT INTO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER-- AN EXPENSIVE OVERHAUL.
IF IN DOUBT ABOUT THE AGE OR CONDITION OF YOUR COOLANT, CHANGE IT!! LOT CHEAPER THAN RISKING AN ENGINE.
Thanks Brett for the plain english explanation. I really think Cummins has had a lot to do with the coolant confusion. They have literally hundreds of pages of published info on coolant, much of it referring to expired products, obsolete part numbers, mixing terminology between ELC and OAT, no real recommendations. I've found this confusion extending to the parts counters also.
Wonder if non maintained coolants have a part in radiator failures?
Absolutely,
In additions to deposits from old coolant, as it ages, pH gets lower (more acidic) and that harms the radiator as well as engine components.
Again, if you don't know the history, drain, flush and put in a proper coolant (one of the OAT-based coolants -- also referred to as ELC coolants) are my preference. They are basically maintenance-free for 6 years.
Let me know if anyone needs the step by step for coolant change and I can post it.
Lots of sediment (mostly sand like deposits) came out of my cooling system when I changed it out last year after not knowing when the previous owner had last done the maintenance (more than likely never). The sediment continued to come out after 3-4 flushes which led me to pick up Fleetguard Restore and Restore Plus as recommended by a few of the people here. I would recommend this also if you don't know when the coolant was last changed.
Restore Plus-
Safely Removes Rust, Corrosion, Scale, and Solder Bloom – Without Disassembling your Cooling System
Mild Acid-Based Chelating Cleaner
Approved by Cummins
Restore-
Alkaline-Based Cleaner
Most Effective Cooling System Oil/Fuel Contamination-Cleaning Agent on Market
More Effective than Automotive Distributor Detergent Powders
Safe for Use in Aluminum Radiators and Heaters
Removes Silicate Gel
Approved by Cummins
I'm not sure you can ever truly get everything out of the system but I eventually stopped flushing after about 15 times. The water coming out still had a tinge of green (old coolant color) to it when in the buckets and still had a bit of the soapy residue from the two different Restores but I had taken a full day of flushing and there hadn't been any sediment for the last 7-8 flushes.
Please see the below response from Shell Lubricants-North America
Dear Bob,
To confirm our phone conversation regarding the Shell Rotella ELC and the use of the extender. For over the road applications, including RV's, the extender should be added at 300,000 miles. There is no time requirement for adding the extender. Regardless of the number of years you drive the RV, if you have less than 300,000 miles, you do not need to add the extender. The 3 year limit in our product data sheet refers only to off-road use, for instance in construction equipment. What this means is the Rotella ELC is essentially a "fill for life" product if you never reach 300,000 miles. We do recommend periodically checking the coolant freezing point using a refractometer. If there is any chance for cross contamination with another type of coolant or water dilution, we recommend using the Rotella ELC contamination test kit to confirm the proper levels of the OAT additive are present. This kit is available from Polaris Labs at 871-251-8313 and uses an extraction technique which takes about 5 minutes and actually confirms the OAT additive level. Should the kit indicate contamination, the coolant system should be drained, flushed, and re-charged with fresh Rotella ELC following the instructions on the container.
Best Regards,
Larry Morrison
Technical Advisor Shell Lubricants-North America
Tel: +01-800-237-8645 Options 4,1
Email: shelltechnical-us@Shell.com
Internet: http://www.epc.shell.com (http://www.epc.shell.com)
I know Caterpillar has the same "do nothing unless 300,000 miles" statement on their ELC. And, that extender is an ELC ONLY extender, not SCA.
Again, one real possibility for contamination of the coolant is if a coolant filter with SCA is added.
And, while the Texaco reply did not have a recommended change interval I am not sure that means they endorse a 10+ year coolant life. I know that Caterpillar recommends a 6 year change out for their ELC. With an RV (long life/few miles) we are in uncharted waters on many components.
We have been using Fleetguard ES Compleat ethylene glycol coolant for many years, CC2820 & CC2825 gallon part numbers. We carry several spare gallons as it is not readily available and we use it in Cummins and Isuzu.
Fleetguard coolants can be quite confusing. Check out
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT15108.pdf (http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT15108)
When we bought our coach, we bought it on consignment with 41,000 miles. We had service records from 2010 but that was it. We were not allowed to speak with the owner. Right coach, wrong dealer. The coach has texaco ELC stickers on the engine, generator and aquahot. The maintenance records from 2010 show a radiator replacement and charging for only 3 gallons of Peak Extended Life coolant - so the original 1999 coolant was reused? Earlier records show DCA additions by cummins.
I've read in numerous places that the Texaco ELC causes damage. Supposedly the Shell stuff is perfectly fine, but the older Texaco labelled stuff was not formulated well for Cummins engines (attacks Silicone).
So I wasn't too sure what the history was but from my research I found out that Fleetguard strongly represents that their red ES Compleat OAT coolant is compatible with *everything*. Every single other kind of coolant they insist will not contaminate or harm their coolant. Since I am in a campground and I didn't want to get into flushing or anything else I chose that coolant so I didn't have to worry about any mixing. I simply drained the system, replaced hoses and couplers, and refilled with new coolant. The color of the old/new coolant looked almost identical and at least now I know I have good coolant. I used like 18 gallons so I have a feeling I got most of the coolant out anyway. The heater hoses drained out the entire rest of the system through a (not desired at that particular time) siphon effect.
I am an experienced mechanic and racer. I've rebuilt engines, installed turbo/superchargers, tuned cars, etc. I had *NO* idea about wet cylinder diesel coolant requirements.
Quick question for Brett---What coolant and filter do you recommend for a Caterpillar 3126b with new radiator and what filter?
Bill
Bill,
I like to keep it simple. Simple being if your engine is ever in a dealership for work, I would want them to be able to put in a gallon of coolant AND make sure it was the correct stuff/compatible with what is in there.
With a Caterpillar, I would (actually do) use Caterpillar ELC (the Concentrate).
If I had a Cummins, would go with Fleetguard ES Complet OAT.
In either case, with an OAT based coolant the filter is ALWAYS a blank which means that it filters, but adds nothing. Also called zero unit filters.
Coolant in actually fairly easy to change, though it is time consuming. Said another way, an owner with just basic tool skills will likely do a better job than most techs because the techs can't take the time to flush and drain like you can.
Brett
For those of you who change your own coolant, how do you dispose of the old coolant and all the flush fluid?
Rich
Rich,
Every single municipality's vehicle maintenance department has the same issue-- and services large numbers of vehicles. Same for school district bus barns. I would call them-- quite likely they will let you drop it off at their shop.
Have received a couple of Private Messages asking for the step by step for changing coolant, so here goes (from an old article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine):
Cooling System 101
I just changed out my coolant and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience.
Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer's instructions (usually every 3 years for regular low silicate for diesel with added SCA coolant). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use. When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant is installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to an Extended Life Coolant and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.
The new-generation OAT-based coolants such as Caterpillar ELC and Fleetguard ES Complet-OAT have a longer life-- generally in the 6 year range with no testing or adding of extenders unless over 300,000 miles have been driven. A big problem with these excellent coolants-- lots of techs are not chemists-- they see a coolant filter and automatically run grab a filter-- often with units of SCA. This is a good idea for the regular low silicate coolants, but are just a contaminant to OAT-based coolants.
OK, so you are going to change coolant. First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity. Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source. Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume. If going back with a coolant that requires additional SCA, purchase that as well. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%). Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there. I know Caterpillar recommends thermostat (they call them regulators) every 3 years.
Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don't get dirty work well. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.
Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes after regular temperature is reached. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the effluent color is clear.
At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to "Last rinse". For older systems, contaminated systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8" to ¾" lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.
If your hoses are over 5-6 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last rinse is with distilled water. At $.85/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.
Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn't matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture.
This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.
Check belts while you are in there.
My son-in-law works for the EPA. He says all engine coolants are not considered hazardous. Pouring it down the drain is fine. Just don't leave it on the ground where it can poison animals.
Is there a difference in the coolant from the red to a green coolant. Both are Rotella ELC. The one today is green. Looked at the postings in this discussion and other sources of information mention the Rotella ELC as being red in color and coolants that are green is a different blend or type.
If they are different are they compatible?
I tried to sort out all the info here but still a little confusing from my side of the fence.
jack
Jack,
I would suggest you contact Shell for an answer to that one (assuming your present coolant is not aged out or contaminated which would indicate a change may be a better idea).
We recently had the coolant changed at FOT. I asked them to change coolant and replace with the same type that was in the system. FOT replaced the coolant filter with a new filter charged with SCA. FOT replaced the coolant with O'Reilly's premix house brand. It is low silicate ethylene glycol. It is green. The previous replacement was four years ago at MOT right after we bought the coach.
In one of the seminars at a Motorcade Rally, James Triana recommended continuing to use the type of coolant that was originally in the system. He also suggested continuing to use the transmission fluid that was originally in the transmission. Those are my recollections of what I heard. I expect some newer products may be better than old products if they are properly installed and maintained. I have stayed with products similar to OEM. So far we've had no problems with exceptional failures, overheating, or unusual wear.
Interesting. Most Foretravels of that vintage and newer came with ELC/zero unit SCA filters.
BTW, I have never heard or seen anything from Caterpillar or Cummins suggesting going from low silicate to ELC was a problem. Same for never hearing from Allison against changing from Dexron III to Transynd, particularly with a retarder.
If anyone has a reference for either from a manufacturer, would appreciate a link.
This would be a great time for some product standardization, and straightening out the various acronyms for coolants. My understand is that ELC (extended life coolants) can be either organic acid or glycol based, with the glycol coolant needing SCA additives periodically.
Somewhere in the reams of Fleetguard tech sheets I read was a statement that the standard glycol coolant was the most efficient coolant. Some day when I'm feeling the need for self abuse I'll see if I can locate it again.
I'm running the "blue stuff" as Cummins parts calls it.
Previously, I mentioned this and will again.
RMI 25.. 8 ozs. per 5 Gals of coolant.
I've used the product for years and never had any cooling system issues.
Not cheap BTW and does a great job with everything connected with a cooling system (in anything.) pc
What coolant do you add this to in your diesel? Said another way, what is the base coolant? And, how old is it?
As an update to my earlier post concerning Shell Rotella and the color of the liquid (red or green), I contacted Shell and received the following via email and the same response from my conversation with Shell.
"Dear Sir,
Rotella ELC coolant 50/50 should be red in color, not green. Rotella ELC is an extended life diesel engine coolant that can be used for 600,000 miles if properly maintained and if an extender is added at 300,000 miles. Green coolant is just a regular ethylene glycol coolant and does not have diesel additives in it. While the 2 will mix, the mixture will not be extended life and will not have the proper concentration of additives for diesel engines. Please give us a call at 800-237-8645 Options 3,1 and we will be happy to assist you further.
Regards,
Shell Technical"
I certainly learned from this experience and from that of the Forum members. Actually what I had purchased was Shell Rotella Ultra ELC. That's all that was available from the Love's Truck Stop I had purchased it from.
My plans are to flush my system and use the correct coolant this time.
Thanks for all the help, again.
jack
Brett,
The coolant is spec for the application. As for how long its been since the last service, I'd be guessing. As for the condition of the coolant, I had it tested at the local facility ($35.00 thank you) and it indicated to be about 75%. I then cut open the old system filter which was acceptable, then drained a gallon and added the RMI-25, drove it for a couple of months and cut the filter open again, after overflowing the tank a number of times to rid the system of the sludge (per the RMI-25 method of doing things.) Topped off after looking in the holding tank (which was clean as a new tin can) and have not done anything but look at the sight glass and chug on down the Blvd ;>). I have no issues with overheating since I am not in a rush and live in East Texas which is still flat as a billiard table. pc
OK, I know, off topic, but what sail boat do you have (looking at your picture)? We did a LOT of cruising by sailboat before getting into motorhoming. And there are quite of other sailors here.
32' Hans Christian.. for escaping the local insanity.
Rigged to go anywhere and never goes anywhere but the ship channel. pc
Your boat was built down the road from Formosa Boats where ours was built. As I remember, they had an excellent shop foreman and were finished nicely. The 1980's were great times for Taiwan boatbuilding. Really well laid up glass hulls and great teak joiner work. All for pennies on the dollar compared to U.S. and Euro boats. No one could duplicate the custom teak work at any price. Barlow clones that worked just as well, excellent rigging and sails from Cheong Lee in Hong Kong, the world's best sail loft.
Pierce
Thank You. Not too many of this heritage in the area and even fewer setup as though it was headed around world. We get quit a few compliments from the captains coming into port when out in the channel doing our best to avoid being run over.) pc
It's funny, I called Sun State International who so far had been kind and excellent value when it comes to my parts needs. They gave me an emphatic no to taking my coolant, despite me buying the new coolant from them.
I ended up using one of the recycling lookup websites to find that one of the Advance Auto's near me (but not all of them) takes coolant.
The looks I got bringing in 20 gallons of coolant were priceless. I ended up filling up their whole coolant drum and had to leave 3 bottles.
To confuse you further, Fleetguard ES Compleat OAT comes in ethylene glycol and propylene glycol variants. Luckily I got the EG variant.
Also shell Rotella ULTRA ELC is a moly (I think that's the terminology) coolant and is a new technology. Supposedly it's better but I'm not going to be the guinea pig on that one. It is yellow in color and is not compatible with red Rotella ELC HD diesel coolant which is an OAT coolant.
I realized this weekend that My last 2 filter changes on my Rotella ELC system had 4 units each of SCA. I switched to ELC back in 2009 and kept buying the SCA filters by mistake. Afraid that I had ruined my coolant, or even worse,that I had done some damage to the engine or cooling system, I called Shell this morning for advice. I was fully expecting the conversation to quickly move to a choice between Rotella ELC or Rotella ULTRA ELC for my new fluid. To my surprise, and contrary to everything that I had understood about ELC, they said that I don't have anything to worry about. While SCA is not needed in the ELC, they said that the only harm it will do is the addition of some dissolved solids. They said that as long as I have not added any other type of fluid there is no need for me to test for contaminants and that I should just stop using SCA filters. Performance and life expectancy of the ELC is not affected enough to matter. In fact, he said that they have had fleets convert to Rotella ELC by adding the ELC boost product to existing fluids without draining them. This is so different from what I expected to hear that I'm worried if it's true.
While at two Detroit Diesel factory shops to try and get a manual for my reader, I asked about coolants. Both shops laughed and said they just use the green stuff on the shelf for all vehicles. Think that in many cases, the manufacture's recommendations and what the shops or fleet owners do is quite different. Sometimes, the different divisions at the manufacturer may not seem to be in touch with each other.
Pierce
I would have thought that the Shell Rotella tech support rep that I talked to would be the best source for accurate information. I would have discounted the info if it had been from a mechanic at a shop but the factory tech support guy should be the definitive source. He seemed very knowledgeable and confident in his advice. It was just 180deg from what I expected to hear.
Yes, I find his advice very strange. Even with the regular "low silicate for diesel with added SCA" where you test and add SCA (it is used up) there is a strong caution about not overdosing the SCA. 1200 PPM is ideal.
As a side note, wonder if you spoke with a "customer service rep" or a chemist who really knows the chemistry.
Personally, for the low cost (relative to cost of water pump, radiator or engine) I would flush and fill and then go with the correct zero unit SCA filters (called filter BLANKS).
I called Shell back and spoke to a different tech support rep (Larry) in their Rotella Coolant dept to get a 2nd opinion. He was very consistent with the 1st guy. He says they have been advised many times by their "formulators" that SCA by itself is not a problem and it does not negatively affect the chemistry. it's just an additive that is not necessary but in small quantity does no harm. Again, he seemed very knowledgeable and sure of his information. He was saying that they answer this question a lot and it's not a problem. Just change the filter and stop using SCA filters from this point forward. Both reps were more concerned that only ELC fluid has been used for any top offs than they were about the SCA filters. While I generally agree with the case for a full fluid flush and change, for now I don't think I'm going to rush into it. The current 4 unit filter has about 2k miles on it so it may be completely dissolved by now but I will probably go ahead and change it out.
Checked the coolant with a Wix heavy duty test strip https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4106 and it shows time for a charge. It has the green in it now but I'm not sure if it is the right kind. I had it tested 6 years ago and was told it was good.
Napa is running a sale till the end of the month on their coolants. Just picked up 12 Gal of Peek Fleet concentrate (the Pink stuff) at $9.99 gal. for a total of $128. It meets Detroit Diesel Spec 93K217 for wet sleeve liner cavitation protection in 2-cycles. You even get a free #9 Chase Elliot racing hat with a $25 purchase. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FCRFCA003
I'm going to purchase a Vacuum fill coolant kit to make it easier and follow Brett's detailed instructions. This one has a flexible hose for hard to reach connections like in a Grand Villa. (Hope it fits!) Amazon.com: Coolant Vacuum Refill Kit, Qiilu Coolant System Refiller Kit... (https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Radiator-Coolant-Cooling-Carrying/dp/B07VTQFT85/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=coolant+vacuum+refill+kit&qid=1617037407&sr=8-15Spring)
Spring time is coolant change time!
Jerry
Jerry...more then likely the tapered rubber adapter supplied with the kit will be to small for the GV filler neck.
Thanks Hans,
I believe the universal adapter will fit up to 5cm. If it's to small I'll have to locate a rubber reducer with a smaller hole to fit over the filler neck.
Jerry
Or disconnect the overflow hose and put your vacuum servicing hose on it. place something under the negative pressure check valve in the cap and just service like that. Just remember to remove when you are done so as the cap can pressurize once again. Doesn't cost anything. Works perfect.
Scott
Brett,
What's the difference between the Fleetguard OAT and NOAT coolant and which should we be using?
Thanks,
Rich
NOAT has nitrate added, OAT is what the factory put in mine
If you read clear thru the article in the link below, you will read that Caterpillar does not recommend any nitrate free anti freeze. If you were confused, and thus asked this question thinking there is only one answer, you may be surprised and will see you are not alone.
And that includes me. I would recommend doing your own research, as each mfg makes there own recommendations, and does their own research.
I remember when rv mfgs like Monaco, Beaver, and Country Coach used Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit, and Navistar engines each rv mfg commented on them only buying one anti freeze for those several engine mfgs.
Three years ago after my research for my Cummins, I decided on Fleetguards ES Complete, a 1,000,000 mile anti freeze. Now after your question, I find Fleetguard makes four different ES Complete products, all marketed as 1,000,000 products, in both OAT and NOAT products. With some being nitrate free, and some not. I remember Toyota and many other mfgs made a big deal of nitrate free because of their bringing up of the issues with aluminum that they all used. Given my background with Toyota, I believe I installed the OAT product, and I am not sure. If I cannot find my receipts for the "lifetime" coolant, ES Compleat I installed in 2017, I may see a coolent change soon in my future due to the additions I made when I replaced the water pump. Thank you for your question.
Diesel-Coolant Industry Heats Up Over Nitrite (https://editiondigital.net/publication/?i=470723&article_id=2993599&view=articleBrowser)
Confusing at least... All this brings concerns to me because 2 years ago after replacing coolant in my 8.3 and using oat based coolant ie Pm brand, I believe my mechanic added a 16 ounce bottle of Penncool 3000. I have done research and can find a lot of information but can find zero do's and dont's. I can't find who mfg PM extended life coolant so I can call them but did reach Pennray additive who says they will call me back.. All this to try and prevent pitted liners and after reading here it seems we may have done the opposite.. If I can't find an answer today then I will drain coolant and darn well dread that.
Here's a couple of excellent tutorials from Josh ( Adept Ape) on radiator flush and refill using a vacuum refill kit. This young man really knows his stuff.
Very easily accomplished with one of these kits and a great way to know if your system has leaks. No air pockets after refill. This is a must have for us DIYers.
I have 5 vehicles with radiators and this will make life much easier when coolant flush/change time comes!
Jerry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SfhBRvVbtg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6j0ZvjVj8Q