Just for my own curiosity I decided to itemize what I've done to the U225 Foretravel motor home we bought in late November of 2011 in order to get it prepared for retirement and snow-bird use beginning winter of 2016. Then I thought that maybe some others might be interested in the list of repairs, upgrades, special tools, and setting up a Towed. I thought that the result might be intersting to someone considering buying an older motor home but not sure about the costs involved. Just remember that the upgrades, special tools, and costs for making the Wrangler into an acceptable "towed" are purely my own choices.
The U225 is a relatively simple motor home (for a Foretravel, at least) but it is well designed for maintenance which makes adding equipment relatively easy. Access to the engine and transmission is via the bed (which raises or can be removed) in the rear bedroom and underneath. Wire trays run the length of the coach and are accessible via the "basement storage" bays. The roof is flat and sturdy. Panels allow access to almost everything; although "easy" access is sometimes not the case.
The simplicity of the U225 also works against technology, however. For instance, there is no remote engine readouts for error-codes. Part of my plans include provisions for monitoring some functions via tablets or smart phones (like solar power charging and battery use data). Some digital functions can be kept simple such as using an older, no-longer-used smart phone to mount on the dashboard and display speed in an ad hoc "heads up display" onto the windshield.
At any rate, this is what I came up with while spending a few hours waiting for the sun to warm things up enough to go get to work.
Repairs
1. Engine driven alternator. This had been miswired by someone who completely misunderstood how a motor home with an isolator board works. Instead of installing a "sense" wire they jumpered the positive 12vdc to the sense connection. Do not do this! Cost was $400 for a rebuilt alternator (which has worked flawlessly since).
2. Engine thermostat. This had to be done at a Cummins dealer because neither the DW nor I could figure out exactly how to get the old one out and the new one in. Cost was around $700 because the replacement required a lot of disassembly of engine accessories around the alternator.
3. Transmission shift cable. The U225s (and many other coaches from that era) uses the Allison 643 4-speed transmission. Shifting that transmission is done mechanically via a lever on the dashboard connected to a lever on the transmission using a cable. After a few trips it became harder and harder to move that shift lever until, finally, it would no longer budge. It was either the lever assembly, the cable, or the transmission. We disconnected the cable at the transmission and that lever worked fine. Disconnecting the cable at the lever was harder to do so we decided to replace the cable. We also investigated several after-market designs that replaced the cable with remote shifting assemblies of one sort or another but they were all expensive and difficult to install. After being told that a new cable could cost up to $700 we removed our old cable and took it to a control cable outfit in Spokane, WA thinking that it would take a few days. A new cable was ready two hours later for just over $100. It took us two days to install it and get it aligned (thanks to instructions from a mechanic friend that repairs the school buses the DW drives). Cost: $125
4. Engine wiring electrical fire. The sense wire that they did not connect to the alternator that subsequently failed had been tucked up into the corrugated wiring covers. When we started the engine that wire fell out and landed on the exhaust manifold. Since it was connected directly to the start batteries (without a fuse!) it conducted a lot of current until it caught fire and melted itself and many other wires in the area. We waited 'til good weather (the next spring) and then traced, separated, and replaced every single damaged wire - one at a time - while laying in the engine bay or laying under the engine. Something like 15 wires; most of which were fused into a blackened lump. Luckily none had been broken so we could identify the undamaged ends. We used water-tight butt splices; crimp them and then use a heat gun on them. Should be better than new. Cost was about $50 in wire and connectors plus a week of work for two people.
5. Engine starting solenoid. There are three solenoids involved in starting the Cummins 5.9 engine in a U225. one under the front dash that is energized when the ignition key is turned to "on". This allows the ignition key to energize another solenoid, located on the isolator panel just behind the driver's side rear wheel well, when it is turned to "start". That routes enough power from the start bank to energize the starter solenoid mounted on the starter itself. This was an intermittent problem. Cost was $35 for a new - water resistant - solenoid on the isolator panel. Plus a few hours of work.
6. Replaced one RedTop battery in the 2-battery starting bank. Cost $170 at BatteriesPlus in Graham, WA.
7. Replaced second RedTop battery in the starting bank. Cost $140 from Amazon (including shipping).
Total costs of repairs so far: $1,620
Upgrades
Note: the two negative numbers refer to upgrades performed on the U225 prior to us getting it but I thought that including them would be appropriate given how vital I believe they are to the coach but their costs are not included in the totals.
-1. Banks stinger. This was installed by a previous owner (probably the original owner) and is an upgrade I consider to be vital on a U225 which has only a 230hp Cummins 5.9 mechanical engine. This upgrade adds a much more efficient turbo plus monitoring instrumentation (exhaust gas temperature and boost pressure) which provide the driver with more information for the operation of the coach. This upgrade added enough horsepower to bring the hp-to-weight ration of the coach down to about 77 pounds per hp and greatly improves acceleration, climb speed and (I believer) miles-per-gallon.
-2. PacBrake. This is an exhaust-type brake which, frankly, is barely noticeable when activated but still provides enough braking to control speed on relativey steep descents (the west side of Snoqualmie Pass, near Seattle, for instance). This is an early version and not the latest version (which is reputed to be much improved) and was installed by the original owners of the RV. Another upgrade I would not be without. I can watch motor homes hitting their brakes all around me while our coach simply holds its lower speed. Perhaps not as good as the "transmission retarder" but I can't put one of those on.
1. Charger/converter. Our coach had the original version which is old technology. These are infamous for boiling out liquid batteries or damaging AGM batteries. We replaced the old unit with a Progressive Dynamics 3-stage solid state unit. The charger/inverter is located on the back of the panel that separates the entry stairs from the basement storage area. We have a "joey bed" in this area and one of us laid on it while the other pushed it in and pulled it out (and handed in tools). Cost was about $160 from Amazon.
2. Trimetric 2025 battery usage monitor. This device gives us an easy reading of the state of charge of the house battery bank, how much power has been used, and how much power is left. Plus it gives a more accurate reading of the starting bank voltage than the dashboard voltmeter does. Cost was about $150 plus several hours of work. I mounted the readout below the AC voltmeter which, on our floor plan, was on the cabinet directly aft of the entrance steps.
3. Front LED HDTV and BluRay/DVD player. A previous owner had installed a flat panel television that was, unfortunately, not HDTV ready. Because we wanted to retain the use of the two cupbaords above the front windshield, the size of a new tv had to be less than 20-inches. The result was an HDTV with only 720p resolution (not the usual 1060p) which I simply installed onto the board that the PO had fastened over the hole that had contained the original 13-inch tv set. I first stained and varnished that board to match the interior of the coach (even though it's not really visible), then secured a mounting frame to it and fastened the HDTV set to that frame. Then wired it up. It's AC only but I bought a cigarette lighter inverter that runs the TV set and the BluRay together with no issues. Total cost was about $250.
4. Rear bedroom HDTV and BlueRay/DVD player. The coach has coax suitable for TV running between the bedroom and the front area but everything today is HDMI or network. Rather than run almost 40-feet of HDMI cable between the front and back televisions/players I simply added another BluRay player for the bedroom. I mounted the Samsung 1060p HDTV against the bulkhead over the drawers. Apparently no one had evern "installed" a TV in the bedroom before as there was simply a shelf above the drawers with connections for TV on the bulkhead. The "full motion" mount is through-bolted onto the bulkhead and into the closet. Cost was about $300 total.
5. Bathroom floor in tile. The rug in the bathroom was identified immediately as a source of nastiness. The DW removed it and installed a mosaic tile floor and painted the other surfaces in a matching color. Much better although a tad cold on tootsies in the morning. Cost: about $250
6. HDTV Upgrade to the "batwing" OEM television antenna. Cost was about $75 but I have never managed to make it work; an 8" wire dangling from the antenna input of the front HDTV worked! I plan to replace this with a "Jack" antenna in order to better acccommodate the rooftop solar panels.
7. Solar Panels. We have two solid panels that are rated at 240-watts each at 24vdc and two flexible "Unisolar" panels rated at 68-watts each at 12vdc. Plus mounting brackets that will allow the solid panels to be tilted if we desire. Plus the combiner (junction) boxes. Not installed yet; waiting for appropriate weather for the glues to work right. Cost was about $1,000.
8. Solar Panel Charge Controller. We bought a cheap MPPT controller from Amazon and then decided to buy an expensive MPPT controller (with the ability to be monitored via a network connection) (the Classic 150 by Midnite Solar) to maximize the efficience of our panels. Cost was about $650. Not installed yet.
9. Raspberry Pi on-board Linux computer system. This will host the web page for WiFi access to data about various coach processes of which the first will probably be the solar charger data. The Rpi will connect wirelessly to a WiFi Access Point which will connect via Cat5 cable to a Ubiquiti Titanium Bullett mounted on the "luggage rack" railing at the rear of the rooftop. Total cost: about $250 which includes the access point plus a 12vdc powered USB hub. All bought from Amazon.
10. Wilson Sleek cell phone amplifier that is usable on both 3G and 4G frequencies plus an appropriate outdoor antenna. The antenna is mounted on the "luggaage rack" at the rear of the roof top and the device is located in the rear bedroom (to keep the antenna lead short). Cost: about $180 from Amazon
11. Inverters One 1600-watt pure-sine inverter mounted in the cubby where the vaccum resides and connected to the battery bank through the floor. I selected this inverter because its size is about what a 15-Amp AC wall receptacle could safely handle. It will be wired to the port-side receptacles through an automatic switch under the bed. Cost: about $550.
12. Inverter. One 190-watt pure-sine inverter for powering the Samsung HDTV, the BluRay/DVD player and assorted devices in the rear area of the coach that need their own AC power. Or whatever. Cost about $80 via Amazon.
13. Two dual-band hand-held amateur radio transceivers for communications while parking or traveling in two vehicles. These are capable of working through local repeaters as well as simplex and could be programmed to work through FRS hand-helds. Cost about $40 each plus various cords and antennas: about $100 via Amazon.
Total costs of upgrades so far: $3,920.
Special Tools Bought Just for the RV
1. A/C harness for filling/drawing down air conditioning system. About $50 from Harbor Freight.
2. Vacuum pump for a/c system. About $150 from Harbor Freight.
3. Air powered bottle jack heavy enough to lift one corner of the motor home. About $85 from Harbor Freight (probably should get another one).
4. Hand held "wand" type voltage tester/digital voltmeter. $25 from Amazon.
5. Miscellaneous hand tools bought to be carried in motor home. About $150.
6. Puncture tool to capture and inject R16 freon: $8 from Amazon.
Total costs of special tools so far: $468.
Expenses in getting Jeep Wrangler as a Towed Vehicle
1. 5,000 lb tow bar. About $80 from Harbor Freight.
2. Appropriate hitch assembly. $50 from WalMart
3. Breakaway chains. About $35 from Harbor Freight.
4. LED mag-mount tail lights. About $35 from Harbor Freight.
5. Brake Buddy. $300 via Craigslist.
6. Spare Tire mounting bicycle rack on towed: $50 from Amazon.
7. Welding of tow-bar mounts on custom front bumper: Free!
Total cost to get Jeep towing 4-down: $550
Repairs and Upgrades Yet to be Completed
1. Hot water heater. The "sparkplug" type connector to the igniter has failed. I'm not sure whether there is another issue or not but that's yet to be done.
2. Rear furnace motor shaft has lubrication issues. Waiting for appropriate weather to disassemble and lubricate and reassemble.
3. Installation of solar panels and controller waiting on weather.
4. Permanent installation of access point, Raspberry Pi and associated deviced in rear bedroom.
5. New - and correct - seal for entrance door. Someone cobbled on something that does not work all that well.
6. Complete the connection from the 1600-watt pure-sine inverter to the starboard (passenger) side of the coach's receptacles and the auto switch.
7. Purchas and install a Dish network satellite TV system with external hard drive for recording programs.
Total invested: $6558 plus original sales price.
Or about $230 per month in repairs and upgrades since we bought the coach. Not too bad, I'd say.
Craig
If the fiberglass radiator fan hadn't exploded and taken out the radiator I'd have a very economical ownership experience with my 1991 U300. I've actually had very few repairs other than the radiator and most of them were simple and affordable. I replaced the coach batteries, rebuilt the alternator, replaced the temperature sensor for the pneumatic clutch on the radiator fan, replaced two airbags but I still need to replace the other six, replaced the headlight switch, replaced the ignition solenoid inside the dashboard, replaced the boost solenoid, replaced a couple of gas struts on the cargo bay doors, replaced the domestic water pump and pressure tank, replaced some clearance lights and bulbs, rebuilt the air dryer, replaced the air horn solenoid valve and the retarder's pneumatic solenoid valve... and that's about it that I can think of... certainly nothing expensive or difficult. I've driven it over 20,000 miles in the nearly two years I've owned it.
My coach is almost exactly what I want so I haven't done many modifications except for mounting my canoe and motorcycle. The motorcycle carrier was kind of an ordeal but the canoe carrier was built by Foretravel's metal fabrication shop in about an hour and worked great with no further modifications. I think they charged me less than $100 if I remember correctly. The motorcycle carrier cost a lot more and required several modifications by welding shops and some experimentation... and some advice from another motor coach owner who had battled with a motorcycle carrier before and learned the hard way. :) My other modifications were basically removing equipment that no longer works and that I don't use or want.
I think the repairs I've done were about $1,300 not including the radiator and fan, which was $2,000 plus two months of my life! The modifications were probably about $500 I think... I didn't really keep track and I'm just going from memory... I have however spent a gazillion dollars on diesel and campgrounds in the past two years! hahaha
We both have early 1990s motor homes but the actual repairs are minimal, usually. Even your radiator repair, other than being a nightmare (we all remember...), was not that expensive in dollars for a rig that old.
The upgrades I'm making are to save money on new batteries and to let me spend more time in the desert off the grid. Thus avoiding the gazillion dollars on campgrounds. A week or so at a free spot... then move to another.
We are lucky here in the West; we can do this. So far, anyway. Someone is bound to change it sooner or later. The only thing stopping them so far is most of us are old... and we vote.
Craig
Excellent post Craig!
Richard B
To go solar for dry camping, we installed four 280 watt panels @$170/ea , Midnight Classic 150 at $620 delivered plus wiring, aluminum, etc for a total of about $1600 to $1700. The batteries were from a bankrupt solar company and were pennies on the dollar. Six Genesis AGM batteries model XE 70X (68ah) at $35/ea or $210 total. List was over $500/ea so it pays to look around for the deals. Other items included a Dish Tailgater and 211K receiver from PPL for $299 plus about $12 shipping (good deal) and a Samsung 42" LED HDTV for $400 delivered. Rear 22" LED HDTV was $125. Most all lights were converted to LED for another $100. Two progressive scan BluRay players for about $90. Dish network account is about $80/month for two home receivers but have the second installed in the U300.
Thats about all for solar independence and low draw appliances.
In four years of ownership, outside of oil, filters, diesel, we have replaced one airbag ($159), boost relay ($40), water pump relay (ebay deal at $11) and misc 12V clearance lights. A tire was damaged so another $375 for a new 295/75/22.5 Firestone (deal) and one air filter ($62). Other things like fuel pressure gauges, water temp gauge for the generator, air filter gauge were about $50 total. New AM-FM radio $125. New kitchen Euro style faucet at $82. Alcoa 22.5 aluminum wheel with excellent spare tire $200. Misc tools, jacks. Thats about it. Forgot insurance at about $620/year. Registration is pretty cheap even in California. $550 for seats in Mexico, $150 for HF unvented heater & plumbing.
Have bought a couple of Nexiq Pro-Link 9000 to play with for the 6V-92TA but less than $300 so far plus about $200 in manuals and valve adjusting tools.
All chargers, converters, etc are original and work well.
Pretty cheap for a lot of fun in four great years and about 25K miles.
Pierce
The DW is planning on ripping out the carpet in the salon/galley and utting in a cork floor at some point this summer.
I did not count the cost of the winch for the Jeep or the rack (which, because it's a soft-top, has to be kind of expensive). But that's where the kayaks will travel. The beach chairs inside. :)
The point is to be at a point where nothing more needs to be done to the motor home in order to spend 4 weeks on a beach south of Mulege in the Baja and still be able to talk to the kids now and then on ham radio. But also, in the meantime, get some use from the coach here in the great PNW.
If I could just squeeze in the model trains..... :P :D
Craig
Love the model trains. Good exhibit by USC in LA.
Had just been thinking about a trip to Mulege in late fall. Have taken a small sailboat to Bahia de Conception a couple of times and you know how good the camping is there. No one on the other side of the bay. They have fast internet south of Mulege now so Skype is happening. Still have my Icom IC720 from the world cruising days. Cut a wire so it transmits on all frequencies as the navy guarded several of them. Now if I only had gotten my ham license (never learned how to swim either back then). Let us know if you need company.
Actually, I learned to sail going from the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club to Aberdeen on the other side of the island. That and reading Hal and Margaret Roth's 50,000 Miles Under Sail a dozen times were it before heading out. Eight days with 5 days of force 10 later, I was ready to edit Joshua Slocum's book in Manila. ;D
Pierce
Sue and I met Beryl Smeeton in Seattle back in the 80s. We just missed the Hiscocks who were hanging around Vancouver Island until they decamped for NZ because the waters of the Gulf Islands were too crowded. :) Those were my heroes back then. We cruised the Sea of Cortez for several years and would like to repeat that.
Oddly enough, when our son was 10 he and I towed a West Wight Potter down to Mulege and cruised Conception Bay in company of the 40-foot S/V Tortuga whose two daughters earned their Girl Scout merit badge for sailing in our little boat. We dubbed it the "Tipout" and Dan and I slept aboard the Potter every night in comfort.
We'd love company. Hope to see you guys down there. :)
Craig
Well here is my 2 cents.
Bought coach in Aug 2009 and the PO had in the previous year spent close to $40k on things, new full body paint, headlight upgrade, Banks, Koni shocks, LED lighting exterior and steering assist.
I have added,
2 Toyos on front
750w Solar and 3 Lifelines 765ah-with Morningstar Mppt.
Residential fridge and slideout Pantry
P Sine inverter and wiring for Fridge
Tile flooring and back splashes
2 led Tvs
Led Lighting thru out interior
Silverleaf Display on Netbook
Cabinet Air springs
Engine exhaust manifold and bolts etc
Various valving for air system
Resonator
Total cost (many items at discount price) $9300,00
I have done over 90% of the work myself, and aside from all the usual servicing needed by everyones coach's I feel that with the price I paid for Coach and this work, I am still ahead of what my FT should sell for now, 4 yrs later and 37k miles added.
JohnH
I think that, at least for a guy like me, doing most of the work myself means the difference between being able to own a Foretravel and actually use it or camping in a tent. It helps enormously that I married a girl who was not smart enough to know that not everyone goes off on a sailboat with their kids for 5 years. :P So she cooked on a kerosine stove, stood a watch, and helped with all the maintenance. We still do it that way. We work as a team. Only now she has to do more of the physical things than me while I sort through the issues and tell her what I think is the next step. :D
This weekend we'll take the scaffold apart (it's assembled inside the shop) and reassemble it next to the FT so I can get a start on preparing the rooftop for the solar panels and all the associated stuff. I suspect we'll both get time on the polisher.
Craig
I agree Craig on the cost of doing the work yourself or having to pay out $100 an hour to have someone not do it right the first time (we can do that too). My $9k investment would have ballooned to most probably $25k if I had paid labour too!
I like the challenge of taking a bit longer (sometimes), but mainly the knowledge that I KNOW it has been done and usually the reason for the original problem. This info comes mainly from the Forum friends and manuals.
The work needed to be done on the 240 has given me some new insight on systems I had not worked on before but now understand sufficiently to fix. Most of them I did not expect to have to do when dealing on it !!!!
Plus it gives me something to do, along with many other projects right now. Replacing spa pump/motor, home and garden fix's and helping neighbour build a Travel Trailer from scratch.
Life is not boring. Oh, and finishing up the transformation of '95 240.
JohnH
The 240 was like a sports car to drive versus the bigger coaches. Plus fast. Probably no loss of either with your 102" I would think....
To date we have spent $15K +/- on maint, repairs and upgrades in a little over a year of ownership. We have done most of the work ourselves and consider ourselves very fortunate and blessed to be able to own our FT. We fulltime and have made repairs/upgrades where ever and when ever they were warranted. Carol and I are partners in this endeavor and work together to do what needs to be done. We would have spent thousands more if we had to pay others to do what we have done.
Like John H. said - couldn't have done these things without the support of the great folks on the Fofum.
Tires all around
GPS
TV and Sound bar
Replaced fuel pump on Aquahot
Added DVD/CD Player
Zip Dee Awning repair/control box/both arms
Roof repaired and recoated
Compressor for Zip Dee Awning
PTL Door stop hinge
HWH control Panel
Slide out wipers
Microwave roof vent
A/C roof vent covers
Magnum 2820 Inverter converter & ARC 50
VMSPc Engine diagnostics, internal wireless router and Dash mounted 7" tablet
Starting Battery -
Automatic Transfer Switch
CB Radio
Ultra TrikL-Start
Water softener
Front LED clearance lights
TriMetric Battery Monitor
Kitchen faucet
HWH lower left slide hydraulic cylinder
Engine oil/filter change - fuel filters - 87765 miles
Generator oil/fuel filter change - hours 849
Net gear wireless signal booster
Naugahyde material to cover slide header and legs
Caliper Helper Springs
Install Helper springs
Shark Bites - Fresh water check water replacement
LP fittings for grill quick disconnect
Absolutely! No other forum comes close to this one for member competence. Even the new members are usually experienced RVers. Several are ex-yachties* (or current yachties*); a lifestyle that I consider to be an excellent training grounds for learning how to cope.
In my summary I was careful to categorize the expenses so that readers could determine how much we spent for repairs - which I consider mandatory expenses - and how much we spent for items we chose to buy for our own purposes; upgrades, tools, and configuring the Jeep Wrangler to be towed 4-down (which I think I managed to do on an extremely thrifty basis even considering that the vehicle is already 4-down friendly out-of-the-box).
The results surprised me. I had thought our repair expenses were much greater than they turned out to be. Imagine buying a 20-year-old motor home, owning it for over 2 years and putting 5,000 miles on it but spending less than $2,000 for repairs over that period! And a fair bit of that expense was caused by the ignorance of a previous owner installing an alternator incorrectly.
RRadio's experience with his coach - even including the radiator replacement horror story - is still an epic of cheap RV'ing.
The worst repair story on the forum lately was Pat's complete replacement of his 20-year-old Cummins 5.9 engine after what turned out to be a bungled previous repair. But the result was perhaps the ultimate upgrade: a brand new engine.
One thing I have learned from this thread is that repairs need to be done in a timely and thoughtful manner using the best parts you can find. And upgrades need to be planned with consideration to the usefulness and suitability to needs as well as with an eye towards at least some sort of "return on investment" (but not carrying that side out too rigorously). You can get carried away with upgrades. But, since repairs generally turn out to be a much smaller part of the overall expense of RVing in a Foretravel, it might actually be a good idea to get carried away with those.
*Yachties. A term applied to themselves by people who live and cruise in boats; generally sailboats. The boat itself need not be an actual "yacht". Generally yachties travel internationally, often far offshore, live frugally and work sporadically. It is a very self-contained lifestyle.
Craig
Craig - Very well said.
I did not categorise my list. To lazy I guess. I keep an excel spread sheet and most every time we spend $$ on something for the coach, except fuel, I add it to the spread sheet. Maybe some day I might categorise but not today. Our goal is to keep a running total of maint., repair and upgrade costs. Not perfectly accurate but close.
Certainly some on the Fofum have spent more and many have spent less.
I did not catergorise either as you see. My thought is "once the money has gone out my wallet it is history, and we just enjoy the change/benefit from spending it" I gave up keeping check of fuel too once I had figured out what the mpg was over a couple of trips. Now I know what it is and it I move on to something else.
These are lifestyles or toys and should not waste time justifying the cost to make one feel good (or better). I remember my late Wife saying "just get it ,you deserve it" in 83 when I saw a nice 735I BMW on a car lot for $35,000.00 and thinking "wow is it nice" but not envisioning actually buying it. Life is short.
JohnH
I hadn't categorized 'til I wrote the post that started the thread. One thing led to another and pretty soon I had everything in categories. That's why I was surprised at how little actual repairs had been versus the "upgrades". Actual repairs on a 20-year-old FT are surprisingly low. I've spent more than that repairing travel trailers.
Craig
Quite a few of us on this forum are full timers, so our annual costs really should be compared to the cost of owning a house! haha