Replaced the components on the isolator board today. On my 95, the board is located just behind the driver's side rear tires. The 95 has two solenoids, two circuit breakers and one relay as well as the isolator itself. For future reference:
* Solenoid: Cole Hersee 24213 - $93 for two (Amazon) - red arrow
* Circuit Breaker: Bussman CBC15B (15 amp) - About $5 each (Amazon) - green arrow
* Relay: Standard RY 115 - $11 (local auto parts store) - blue arrow
jor
Did you move them all "indoors" to the electrical area at the foot of the bed?
Quite likely that all wires will make the move without modification-- certainly true when I did it on 1993 U240.
No but I think I will do that down the road sometime. Great idea.
jor
I did that relacement on the 240 but rebuilt the solenoids myself and then last week we did Geoff and Pats 240 same way. You do not have to buy new solenoids they are easy to take apart and fix. These are now just as good as new for 0 cost and 30 mins time.
JohnH
Hey, John, you're ignoring the shiny factor.
jor
I agree John but if you wire brush the solenoid they look cool too.!! Must admit your board looks really clean. I bet you get better MPG now due to less wind resistance??
^.^d
JohnH
A slight hijacking.....what program do you use to put on the arrows?
If you use a Mac, the included application
Preview has an annotation menu built in. Otherwise, do a Google search for a free annotation editor for your platform. Another Google search will bring you to sites and video tutorials that make it easy.
Free editor for Mac, iPad, Android, MS Windows at: Annotate PDF Mac: How to Annotate PDF on Mac (http://www.iskysoft.com/edit-pdf/annotate-pdf-mac.html) Video tutorial also at site.
Pierce
Pierce got it right. I use Preview. Back when I used Windows, I had several photo editing applications that allowed arrows and the like. Most photo editors do not. Hopefully, some Windows users will chime in.
jor
Hmmm, Maybe I should do that to my coach one of these days. Brett, do you have pictures of how you went about it? Since we're living full-time in the coach (even though we're still at home) it would mean that there would be no electricity in the coach while I'm working, and I think I'd like to keep that time to a minimum.
Gaayland, Pat H uses this one and I do now.
Quote from: Harvey Nelson on December 21, 2013, 08:38:27 AM
Wow!!! That is super neat Pat.
What software did you use to do your markup?Hey, Harvey! I'm just a simple (and cheap) kind of girl. I use some nifty freeware called PicPick. Basically, it's a somewhat souped-up version of MS Paint. I like the ability to freeform draw a line, which Paint doesn't do. PicPick is well rated by cnet - review and download link is here:
PicPick - Free download and software reviews - CNET Download.com (http://download.cnet.com/PicPick/3000-2192_4-75072925.html)
JohnH
Sorry, no pictures. Basically drilled a hole through the driver's side of the electrical compartment at the foot of the bed (after carefully determining that nothing was in harm's way). Hole large enough to accommodate a "gusseting hose" that would stick down 6" below the floor level-- kind of a splash preventer and large enough ID to accommodate the largest of the wire ends.
Then carefully label each wire on that panel. With batteries disconnected, take them off and push them into the electrical compartment. Move the plate with the electrical gear to the compartment and reconnect.
Not really that difficult.
Thanks, Brett. Sounds like the hardest part is going to be crawling under the coach at that corner. The ground here isn't as level as I'd like, and that corner is the highest ground, so the coach is down on the tire there. May need to either raise the coach before disconnecting the batteries or find a skinny kid.
I've got a piece of gray plastic conduit, maybe 1.25" or 1.5" id. Would that be big enough, do you think? Did you put anything in the hole to keep little critters from coming in?
ID needs to be able to accommodate the largest of the wire ends (unless you want to cut them off and re-connect inside).
After installation, I sealed with silicone sealant at both top and bottom-- totally waterproof/critter-proof.
Thanks, Brett.