Hi,
Get the coach out of storage and had no gas at fridge/stove/water heater (tank at 61%). Read archive questions about gas problems and safety switches.
Shut off valves at tank, found switch at bottom of kitchen cabinet (it was in off position) turned it on, opened valve slowly, no change. I did notice this device at the propane tank was hot to touch. Shut of switch at bottom of cabinet. Then was able to get gas at stove. After a while got gas at water heater (fridge is another story and probably not related to this).
Still have switch off at bottom of kitchen cabinet and still have gas at heater/stove. But my question is this device on the tank is still hot to the touch and worried about this? Should I be?
Sorry the picture uploaded sideways, its the black device below the regulator and has the silver button.
That looks like the solenoid that is controlled by the gas detector. It should stay closed unless your propane detector is turned on. Do you have a green light on your gas detector panel when you turn the switch on? Sounds like a solenoid problem to me...
I just did some quick reading on the subject. Seems it takes 12 volts to open the gas safety solenoid, and then 2-3 volts to keep it open. This voltage regulation is handled by the LP gas detector. If the voltage supplied from the detector does not drop down to the lower "hold-open" level, then it can cause the solenoid to overheat. This may be your problem. Perhaps you could have someone reset the switch on the detector panel, while you monitor the voltage at the solenoid. If it stays at 12 volts and never decreases to the 2-3 volt level, then I would say your detector is faulty. I'm not an expert, so take my advice for what it is worth.
If you want to keep the gas flowing, but are worried about the "hot" solenoid, it is supposedly easy to disable. Here's a quote from a old post by Dave Cobb (one of the Forum good guys):
"You can disable the solenoid valve by removing the plunger that the electric is supposed to move. As someone said, it takes power to open and then less power to keep open. Close the tank valve, unscrew the 4 screws in the silver end cap, pull out the plunger, and reassemble. Test for leaks of course and enjoy. Takes just minutes to do."
Sorry for the string of posts, but it is a boring evening here...
Chuck, thanks for the quick answers.
The light on the panel is not on and the switch is off, but still getting gas. Sounds like the continuous 12v is what is keeping it hot. Probably complete removal of it would be the thing to do.
That's what I would do (and will do if mine ever starts acting up). It's not required, it seems to be a source of many aggravating problems, and it is redundant from a safety standpoint. DO make sure you have at least one properly functioning LP detector in the coach (many recommend having 2 or 3). Good luck!
When we replaced our propane detector we were surprised to find that the newer models do not have a solenoid connection. It is now not supplied on newer coaches (I was informed). So I removed the solenoid valve in the pipeline and replaced it with a 3" pipe nipple.
By the way, the experts recommend replacing the propane sensor every five or ten years (don't remember which) and ours was 25 years old!! The new detector supposedly has a self-limiting feature that discontinues function after five years.
You can test your detector by holding a butane lighter to the detector. Do this while holding the lighter open to dispense butane, but blow out the flame!! If the detector is good and on, it will squeal after about 30 seconds.
The solenoid was part of old RV code and regs. and dropped from newer RV rules and codes. Removing either the plunger or the whole switch is the simple solution.
Another option is to look at the Marine industry parts and way of controlling a new switch. Expensive but needed on boats that could fill with the heavier gas if there was an open switch from the tank down into the hull to the stove. West Marine has the parts if you want to spend the money and have the safety of an off/on switch system.
My solenoid had a tiny leak so I ended up removing it. You can use the same fittings. Just have to adjust the clamp bracket a bit.
jor
"My solenoid had a tiny leak so I ended up removing it." I'm assuming that the propane tank should be empty when doing this.
Turning the propane feed off at the tank should be adequate, that's the shutoff on the tank above the regulator. Will get some propane leaking from the lines so as long as you not be puffing on a stogie while doing this you should be OK. Actually this valve shoukd be shut off when the tank is filled.
Roland
Haven't heard that one in awhile, Roland! Got a chuckle out of it. Yea, just shut the valve and break out the spanner wrench. If you remove the fitting completely, remember the one coming directly from the tank is a left hand thread.
jor
JOR,
Just removed the plunger, about the size of a AAA battery. put it back together and only way to get gas is to still have power to the plunger. Will work next on totally removing as you did.
Thanks!
Don't forget that if you disable or remove the cutoff solenoid, the sniffer still will work and give you an audible alarm if it sniffs propane. So leave it turned on.