Ok so drip, drip at the 1/2" drain plug that had a plastic plug.
Looked and looked for shut-off to isolate tank, no luck another project.
1. Shut off gas
2. Disconnect gas to get to plug
3. Carefully chip out ahd pry plastic
4. Teflon tape, install plug
pressure test, fill tank, turn on gas, flip switch whala hot water ^.^d
total time, 45min including going to hardware store
oh yes, you must turn off the fill valve before pressure builds ::)
Great job getting out the broken part without damaging aluminum threads
Nylon drain plugs should be used, but they need to be periodically removed so they will come out in one piece. The plugs are hollow and not real strong, and over time plugs can break apart during twisting to remove them. Atwood p/n 91857 is a shrink wrap card with two plugs for about $6.
We also feel that hot water tanks should be drained several times a year to get rid of calcium settlements, which also takes care of sticking plugs. We use a flushing stick: Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070)
We now use Teflon sealer like Permatex instead of Teflon tape, as we find tape cuts apart and does not seal as well as sealer. In some applications like air lines, tape pieces can damage valves.
Barry, Oh No!
I used a galvanized plug.. ???
I think a metal plug in aluminum may cause galvanization where dissimilar metals cause oxidation with the results of maybe not being able to remove the plug because the threads sort of 'rust' together.
The 120-volt heating element current does not help. It seems that aluminum is not a friendly metal to work with in this regard.
I have no chemistry background, but would recommend using the nylon plug. Also a steel plug may distort the softer aluminum tank threads when the plug is tightened. Obviously nylon will give before aluminum.
Ok, will take it out put in nylon.