Well, after 2 weeks of off and on work ,I have finally found the answer to the removal of the decals,wet sanding and buffing. ADVIL! I think that all on here ,like me, wanted some magic bullet. (God knows I looked for one) but it finally just boils down to elbow grease and determination. I just want to congratulate all on here that have gone through that glorious experience ,and also would like to say that we now have a special BOND that only truly devoted people can share. Thank all of you for your postings warning of the impending doom.
3M Stripe Off Wheel 07498, 3/8" Mandrel, 4" Diameter x 5/8" Width, Beige (Pack (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063VT0G/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Works like a giant pencil eraser. Chuck it into a drill and go to town. 1 of these was able to remove all of the bottom cargo bay decals on one side of my 34' with a bit leftover. Finish it off with a bit of acetone and a small razor blade for the tight interior corners that I couldn't get the wheel into. 3-4 of these will take off all decals on your FT, depending on length.
Finished one side bottom decals in about 3 hours, could easily finish all decals on each side in 8 hours with quite a few cordless battery changes. Price used to be about $20 on Amazon but even $30 is well worth it.
+1 I used the same technique then I used 3M white compound to buff the coach followed by Fleetwax. Good luck
Here is free shipping and a price that is similar to Amazon's old price-
3M? Stripe Off Wheel 07498 4 in x 5 8 in with Mandrel 3M 7498 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel-07498-4-in-x-5-8-in-with-Mandrel-3m-7498-/330772747745)
It also helps tremendously if your drill has a side handle to hold it steady while you are erasing the decals. It can be done without out one but the extra handle allows much more control.
If the decals are in good shape on one side of the coach, you can use a hair dryer and razor blade to lift the edge and start peeling them off. A heat gun is too much with a hair dryer just right. When they peel off, they take the adhesive with them so the surface is clean and not sticky. Takes a bit of time to get the heat and technique down. Facing into the sun speeds the process also.
If they have any cracks and you can see the white below, it's a no-go with the above posts the way to go.
Pierce
An inexpensive home-steamer (such as a wall-paper steamer) works very well on decals, too. We removed all the bottom-of-the-basement-doors decals using that method. It IS a two-man operation, however; one steaming, one coming along behind peeling-off the decals. Very easy.
Wish I had seen this sooner! Just removed all the vinyl striping on my 1990 Grand Villa--- there is a magic bullet! It is a product called Vinyl Off and it works fantastic. I was able to remove all of the striping in two days with no power tools. The product can be purchased from Fellers in Houston or Dallas. It is pricey, but it works. It also removes all the glue. In addition, it is nontoxic. Just brush it on wait a few minutes and scrape off the decals or stripes with a plastic scraper, or a DULL razor blade scraper. A sharp razor blade scraper will damage the fiberglass. Stuff cost about $75 per gallon, but I stripped my entire RV with less than half a gallon. This is fantastic stuff!
By the way, my graphics were original, 24 years old and cracked--- Vinyl Off took them off with ease, although I did make a second application to remove remaining glue.
Some additional methods on a previous post. Removing old factory stick-on graphics (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13144.msg71519#msg71519)
I have removed quiet a few stripes using the hair dryer. It helps to have 2 people one to run the dryer the other to pull. When the right temp is reached they pull right off. Amazing how fast they come off. Also, you might want to check into Aqua buff 2000 it is made for gel coat and works great. There is also a 1000 but is much more coarse. The 2000 should work fine.
Good luck.
Jerry
While on vacation this week I have tackled a few jobs. Steering box, a set of front airbags, Air horn solenoid , and while waiting on parts I removed the bottom decals on one side.
I bought a steamer, 3 -3M eraser wheels (only went through 1), acetone, paint thinner, and dragged out my heat gun. After trying everything, I found the best, and easiest method ,was the 3M eraser, followed with the steamer, then a acetone clean up.
Now, I will show Cheryl and hopefully she will remove ALL the rest of the decals. I think the bottom decals are going to be harder to remove than the large side graphics. Maybe they will come off with just the steamer and a plastic scraper ( made scrapers out of lexon plexiglass, just ground a bevel on both ends, seem to last a long time between sharpening, when one side dulls I switch to the other side).
I have a set of new/old stock, original 95 decals that need to be installed.
I hope when the old decals come off that there will be enough old shadow lining even after a through buff out on the gel coat, so that I can see where the new decals will install.
After all is done, 5-6 coats of ZEP high gloss over the entire coach.
At least that is the plan.
Our side decals are in great shape but the front and rear caps were going. We (actually my wife) removed them using the Vinyl Off product mentioned in an earlier post (can't report the ease of removal though). Anyhow, with the decals gone there is a distinct light blue shadow in their place. Anyone else experience this? I've tried alcohol, mineral spirits and acetone to no avail. Someone on another forum has suggested 1000 grit sandpaper. And how about this interesting fact: in the early morning before the sun is well up you can't see the blue. It's like a cement swimming pool. The plaster is bright white but appears blue after the water is added. Anyhow, here's what it looks like.
jor
Lightly wet sand with wet or dry 600 and then go over it with 1200 or 1500 wet or dry (wet). Don't use your hand to sand but a flexible pad (uses 1/3 of a sheet) or a thick foam pad made for the job. Buff with light compound and then to get max shine, use a 3M product called "final finish".
If you use a electric buffer, make sure it's not a higher speed grinder type. About 1400 RPM is ideal.
Pierce
When I removed the decals with the 3M eraser, you could see the dirt outline until I hit it with acetone. Once the acetone was applied, you couldn't tell that there had ever been anything there except gelcoat.
Same applies to jor's comment, there is no trace or hue from the previous decals and I have no idea what to tell you about trying to get rid of the blue.
When we did the outside of th 88, we used 3M deep-cut to remove the oxidation and the yellowing wher the decals were, then acetone.
3M also makes a uv material for graphics - it had a 10year guarantee no fade. Much thinner than decal material.
I am looking for new decals. Are these avalible at FOT? I alos have a 24 Ft Featherlite enclosed that I would like to match with the coach. I am looking for ideas as I do not plan on full body paint as I want to upgrade to a 42 ft with tag in a year. Lesson learned on the decal removal is like all say. Elbow grease and determination. It is a long process. Thanks Adam
Encore took all the "new old stock" decals off FOT's hands years ago. At this point, they are probably 10-20 year old decals that were not stored under climate-controlled conditions for a number of years. Some folks reported purchasing them a few years ago only to find the adhesive had degraded beyond useful limits although there are some who didn't have any issues.
Not sure what the business status is of Encore since it's been for sale for a while now.
Ideas:
1. Xtreme Paint and Graphics can redo just the factory graphics in paint, plus do the trailer to match. It won't be cheap, but cheaper than full body paint.
Xtreme Paint & Graphics Home (http://www.xtremegraphics.net/services/motorhomepaintoptions/)
2. Find a custom vinyl graphics/wrap shop, and let them design new matching decals for both the coach and the trailer. Example:
Create Your Own Vehicle Wrap, Car Wrap, Van Wrap, Or Truck Wrap and Find Vehicle (http://www.custom-car-wraps.com)
Several members have used this source for graphics. Their site tells lots, and they will design or start with OEM styling, your choice. I have seen one coach that was installed, amazing, looked brand new.
RV Stripes & Graphics (http://www.rvsg.com/)
With the advent of Printed vinyl graphics, you can usually get a local graphic shop to give you a quote. I just got a quote for replacing the factory graphics on our 1990 Grand Villa at $1800. That was with me removing the old graphics. Add $600 if they did the removal. 3M material with 8 year life.
By the way, Encore is out of business, they closed last month.
Kimahjohn, hmm sounds correct. We had the 88 done for 2500
The price we got included installation-- I can't hold a straight line
Kimahjohn,
Ours too and take off and extra cut and buff out.
What design did you come up with? We stayed with the stripes with some modification. This is what we did.
We are leaving it white for now--- got a wild hair and bought a 40' U320, so I might leave it for the next owner to decide what they want. We had decided to do much what you did if we were keeping the U280. We are at the facTory this week and next for work on both units. Probably put the Grand Villa up for sale after we get done with the rehab on the newer U320. Problem is, we love the U280 also, just got a great deal on the U320. It will make a great coach for someone, it has been very reliable and trouble free.
A vinyl wrap that matches my original graphics is something that I have been considering as my decals continue to deteriorate. Assuming any graphics shop that can do the work is going to charge to create the original artwork, I'm wondering if it's possible for Foretravel or the Forum to collect and provide data files for our standard patterns as owners are able to donate them? Why design it several times if we can re-use the file? Or is it a propreitary format from one shop to another? Maybe I'm overestimating the artwork portion of the cost. I'm also unsure about the durability of these wraps. Thoughts from anyone that has had them for a while?
Found a place in Iowa that took photos of current graphics and loaded them into their computer. Measured one item on the coach for reference and came up with a quote of $540 if I take the old stuff off. That's just for the "ribbons", not the straight lines since we hade them redone three years ago. Told them to hold that thought and we'd be in in the spring.
What's the name of the place, and do they have a list of satisfied customers available?