To those who have replaced their a/c units how hard or easy is it to pull through from the thermostat to a/c unit the flat ribbon 6 wire and replace it with the newer RJ11 wire? or will it "pull" through?
We will be replacing the units next week, just wondering if those who had done their own replacements how easy or hard it was to change out the cable.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you Kerry
Do you have a thermostat for each air? If you do you might be better to get an ac inner panel that has the switches and controls on the panel directly below the ac. I think it will be pretty difficult to pull a new cable through. Another way might be to splice the rj11 wire onto the 6 flat cable and leave the old cable in place.
Thank you Ron, we checked into the inner plenum with the controls built in but without a thermostat the fan runs all the time even though the compressor cycles on and off.
I have thought about spicing wires also with phone splicers, don't know the name of them but they splice 2 wires together and have a red button on them that you depress and makes connection.
Since we are about to tackle these installs I thought someone on here has done their own install and what they did for the new cable run.
Thank you Kerry
There was someone on this forum with a 93 that changed the ac to the newer ones, I am having a senior moment and can not remember who it was. He lives in Oklahoma, and I think his name is Ken. Maybe someone else will help out with his name.
Our thermostat uses RJ-11 type cable from thermostat to roof air to 2nd roof air. I don't think you will be able to pull a new cable. But there is no reason why a 6-ribbon cannot be easily connected to RJ-11, using a common phone connector box like:
BT Telephone Cable Screw Down Termination Block to RJ11 Socket 4 Pin - (http://www.kenable.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6306)
Howdy Red Tractor, this may be the string: Need more help with Analog to Digital Duotherm A/C Conversion (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13201.0)
When I replaced my front air the dealer supplied an adapter from flat cable to phone type. This went with the new button type thermostat. No new cable needed.
Gary B
Had the ACs replaced on our 96 U295. went from old style thermostat to new one. No new cable run. An adapter was all that was required.
We just last week replaced both of our a/c and NO cable changes. The original cable a 6 cdx connected to a 4 button Tstat was connected to a new digital 12 button a direct plug and play.. The a/c's were the original DuoTherm and were replaced with 2 BriskAir II again plug and play with the proper interface cards. Any questions feel free to contact me. Good luck!!! BTW all done at PPL in Houston, excellent price and quality service.
Thank you all, many great ideas.
We pick up our new units Tuesday and I have been reading the installation downloaded from Dometic.
I think I can use the clear phone connectors on my 6 wire flat ribbon already in place. I do have the tool to install the phone connectors with some extra connectors.
I may if I have to take an idea from here and get some old phone boxes and wire in the flat ribbon then go RJ11 cable.
Each of our units have a thermostat to regulate them and Dometic says that we need the 10 button thermostat instead of the single zone thermostat so Monday before we head th Houston I will be calling Dometic to be sure the single zones will not work...I would like to also use the heat strips with each unit. This winter we had ( for us ) a real winter and the MH inside our building we just used the heat strips on the old units without any problems, never used the gas heaters.
Again thank you all for the ideas and help...I may after Tuesday be back asking for more help or ideas...Kerry
Thanks Dave, that was the article I was thinking about
there is a digital Single zone tstat and you could install one for each air if you wish to keep the separate tstats.
the brisk air II we got, require a control card each and you could connect your aC separate it is easier and you do not need to try to rewire also you may get the single zone tstat in black... at PPL the ac was 360 for the 13.5 and 425 for the 15 plus 100 per card plus labor and tax...
Tony & Lora,
Did you buy 15,000 units? And do you think the sound is much louder from the new units? Atwood says it has more air flow, so I figure it could be louder.
Did they seal everything ok so the new units flow out into the existing ceiling ducts? I assume Foretravel ducts are not the same as other brands and thought there may be some issues that needed to be overcome.
Did the inside ceiling trim fit ok, is it smaller or larger? Is the roof footprint smaller? I assume the ceiling hole is standard, but see promotions on how the roof unit is smaller.
Did you compare the Brisk Air II to the lower profile Penguin II, and why was the Brisk Air II your choice?
Well guys, I read the specs, the Brisk air II is lighter, smaller footprint and only abt 3/4" taller... we went with a 13.5 for the rear and a 15 for the front.... the connection to the ducts is identical and the inside panels were reused since they are also an exact fit... We chose not to add the elec heat since it would have required a different interior cover which is about 2.5" lower...
Now about the sound level, to me it is noticeably lower than the original Duo T... with both units at max we are able to carry on a normal conversation ... not even thinking about the a/c...
So bottom line, the performance is excellent, the price at PPL was very right and we are happy cool campers!!!!
we used a black CCC2 Tstat and NO cables had to be changed... it was literally plug and play...
If anyone wishes to talk with us abt this project, send me PM and we will be glad to...
Update,
We went to PPL yesterday and purchased 2 Brisk Air II units with air boxes , our unit is non-ducted.
We chose to go with the ccc2 thermostat's even though we have a thermostat for each unit. And to run wires from front to back unit would be too much to do now.
I have found the wires that go to our front a/c and need to pull new wires and 12V about 4' in the ceiling. I am hoping to pull the old 10 wire with the the new wires taped to them through the ceiling for the install. I will post pictures as I get to that part.
We didn't use the single zone thermostat's because PPL didn't have them and I figured since they are "on the way out" according to Dometic I didn't want to be replacing them if I had a problem in the future and the single zone thermostat's have only 3 wires that go from the control box verses the ccc2 have 4 conductor phone wire.
Deleted by member.
Installed the front a/c yesterday. Got a shock though when put power to it and it didn't work. Seems I cheaped out on a RJ11 crimp tool and it was junk.
For those attempting to do this their self don't forget that the 12V disconnect in our case is at the electrical distribution panel at the stairs as you come in. Also it was NO problem pulling 12V wires and phone cable from the a/c to the side cabinates. We just intertwined the new cables to the old 10 wire cable and secured with electrical tape to pull through.
The a/c blows much more air, Dometic says 19% more and yes their right. I also like that our old unit had a squirrel cage on both sides of the motor and the Brisk Air has squirrel cage on condenser side and a fan like you'd see from a car or truck with large holes in the shroud to let heat out.
With the Brisk Air it is the exact same height as our in motion satellite is so no problem there.
We still haven't tackled our rear unit so thats coming up in the near future. But our front unit is 13.5 and it easily cools more towards the back then our old Penguin did. So on our floor plan that area is the bathroom.
The ADB or ceiling plenum has doors on all 4 side that you can control the amount of air coming out of it and it has the "quick cool" feature like the ducted MH's do on the bottom.
Thank you all for your help and anybody wanting advise on our install or information please contact me. We had several people on here that we asked help from advise and thank you all.
Kerry
Kerry, if you don't want to run new phone wire on your rear install, Dometic sells an adapter to use with the original flat wire. The only wire you need to run is a 12V wire to the new digital thermostat. I used a little plug in 110V to 12V converter mounted up in the plenum to power the thermostat but eventually I will run the 12V from the bedroom light over to the thermostat.
Also, I preferred the old Dometic plenum/air box to the new style. It has better sound insulation, fewer obstructions and provides quieter air flow. Although the dealer said it couldn't be done I made a couple of minor alterations to the internals of the old box to allow me use the old original. It took less than 30 minutes.
By the way, we purchased a 15,000 btu Heat Pump/AC for the front and really like it. We still use small ceramic heaters unless its really cold but then we use the front heat pump and the rear furnace, to heat the bays, most of the time rather than using the front furnace.
Kent thank for the info, we thought about trying to use the original plenum. But didn't try it, I looked at the return air side of the brisk air and it looks close to the new plenums size. Yes the original ones are WAY better insulated. BUT wife likes the ducts on all 4 sides and the "quick cool" feature on the bottom side.
PPL showed us the 10 wire adapter its about $38.00 each but since I had to pull 12v it was just as easy to pull the phone wire also. The front air is all we've done so far and ours was incredibly easy. I had a friend push the wires at the a/c unit and I gently pulled at our storage cabinates on the wall where the original 10 wire was run from factory...I hope the rear pulls as easy.
The new unit is louder with 19% more air flow. S. Millner brought his MH by last weekend and his is ducted with 1 Brisk Air installed and original Penguin WOW what a difference ducted air is quiter.