Hi Folks,
Well, it's been a while since having a chance to set down and communicate with ya'll. As it turns out last winter after all the issues we had getting home in the cold weather and snow, I locked the barn and walked away. Today I thought about starting work rebuilding the fiberglass battery box that has decayed and come apart. Also I thought I'd check into a couple new 8d batteries since I have one that is a 2011 and is the newest along with 2 others that I know nothing about. I thought it best to use the one I know to be the freshest as my new start battery and replace 2 identical house batteries. Looking in my owners manual I see it calls for 2-1125 cca batteries. I thought I'd just go with a couple AC Delco 8DHD batteries. I cannot afford to go with the big boy batteries at this point. Since having been running the coach for a few years with a bad alternator ( now is new ) and believing that someone pointed out that my Inteli Power 9100 should be replaced, I thought that the AC Delco's with those other new components should be a "like new" upgrade that will serve us well. Thoughts?
Without getting into a multiple hundred dollar batteries, does someone recommend something different?
Should the 2 house batteries be "deep cycle"? Does anyone know if the ones I mentioned would be that?
I can pick them up for $179 each
I've taken down the Inteli Power today and would like to test it but don't know of a way to do so. It was mentioned last year after all my troubles that if it had never been replaced I might just want to do that so I knew it was good. A couple years befor that I purchased the "Wizard" component for it. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt that like or the same as a battery tender / charger? If so, why would I need another Trik-l-start? ( mine went bad last year I think )
A couple questions I have are this....
1. Is it best to replace the Inteli Power for he identical unit only new and same model number so there are no mishaps?
2. Other than doing a search online does anyone have a company they would recommend to buy one from?
Mine is the 9100 Model PD9180....I've found it online for as low as $199.00 plus shipping of ??
I'm really looking to get the ol girl back together and running right...AND having an electrical system that is actually correct and works as it should. It's obvious that this has not ever been the case since I've owned the coach.
Any other thoughts or suggestions you'd like to share to make sure my system is correct, please let me know. I'm asking and I'm open.
Many many thanks as always in advance
With no replies I am curious....did I say something out of line or have questions that made no sense?
I thought for sure I'd hear something from someone.
:(
Carl: Some times it takes a while for answers as some are on line and some are not. I installed new deep cycle batteries (like original) in my coach earlier this year. I love maintenance free batteries as they require no effort on my part. I do put a trickle charger on the start batteries when in storage. Tks DAN
I am waiting to hear all the answers myself!
Currently since testing last year after the new alternator was installed, Brett helped me run a test to check the alternator output and the isolator. At the time everything was perfect. I have been repairing the fiberglass battery box and have all 3 batteries out, the box is out and while I was at it I thought I'd take out the Inteli-Power....which connects to a funny electric plug on the coach.
I'm wondering about a way to test that without having to reconnect all the pos / neg / ground or other wires to it?
I cannot find the post where it was recommended to change it but it is 23 years old to my knowledge.
John, what do you mean by newer technology?
Do you mean replacing with a same exact prt and knowing that it is brand new...or do you mean a completely different brand of something that does what the Inteli-Power is supposed to do. When it comes to electronic components such as this....I really need "plug & play".
Is there another product that will offer the same or more / better options that will plug into the plug I have, and need no more than the positive, negative & ground wires the old unit used?
Im all ears. Also being that my current unit states that its an 80amp what would I look for?
I am 100% without knowledge when it comes to this thing.
By "newer technology" we are talking about a "smart charger" that varies voltage based on battery needs: bulk, absorption and float.
A charge wizard can be added to most PD products to turn the "stupid" into a "smart" charger. Check with PD to see if your model can accommodate a charge wizard.
Amazon.com: Progressive Dynamics (PD9180V) 80 Amp Power Converter: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9180V-Power-Converter/dp/B000B653LO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1403016858&sr=8-10&keywords=inteli+power+9100)
Carl, How old is the charger you have as that unit is still sold
PD9180 - 80 Amp Electronic Power Converter (http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_converter_pd9180a_2.html)
I would go as Brett said with a charge wizard and 2 new deep cycle batteries.
As long as all your connections are very good you should be fine.
JohnH
As for the "smart wizard" I bought 1 a couple years ago for the model I have now. So that part is newer Brett. John, as to the age of my current model.....I'd have to say it was likely a factory item and is 23 years old. Knowing the lack of maintenance that has been done and all I am doing...that would be my guess. I believe that last year, thats why it was recommended that I simply replace it and know that I have a brand new one....also if I buy the same...my smart wizard will plug right into it.
Also, I know there are a lot of different thoughts & beliefs when it comes to batteries AND the AC Delco 8DHD I mentioned earlier may not be everyones first or second choice, but any thoughts about them compared to the Interstate batteries I've had would be appreciated. I thought with a new prozine, a couple new matching batteries and last years new alternator would give us a few years of good trouble free service. Someone mentioned a batterie being as good as the warranty....wouldnt an AC Delco be widely recognized and accepted?
I am also on the fence about new batteries. The ones I have now are questionable 8D wet-cell batteries that came with the coach and spent their lives being "trickle charged" by the OEM charger on our 1993 U225. They do not hold a charge as well as they should even when topped off with distilled water (not what I would describe as a fun job, but still easier than working the drilling platform on an offshore oil rig.)
My very first upgrade to the coach was a PD charger/converter but all they can do is keep new batteries good; they can't fix old batteries that have been fried too many times.
Since we do not full-time - or even part-time (mostly some-time) - I'd like to save some money and just get another pair of 8D wet-cells to put in there and then upgrade when the DW retires.
On the other hand, I've just spent a couple FT-bucks on a solar system with a fancy charge controller and investing in gel-cell might be a good choice. But, since the alternator cranks out a charge that pays little attention to the actual state of charge on the batteries, it seems to me that the older wet-cell tehnology might survive that sort of abuse better.
Once I put in gel-cells I'll either change the engine-driven charging system controller to something better or just take the house batteries out of that circuit and let the solar panels do the job as we roll down the highway.
Leaning towards just getting the cheaper wet-cells.... any ideas?
Craig
Hopefully this isnt a dumb question but if I have the smart wizard connected to my pd9180 does that mean that there is no need for a trik-l-start or any other type of battery tender...because thats actually what the wizard does...when plugged into shore power?
And as for the new batteries I need, we are strictly "some-timers" also
What would tell if the AC Delco 8DHD are "deep cycle" or not?
I assume those are what is referred to as "wet cell" batteries. Id like what ever I buy to be actual deep cycle
Carl, supposidly yours came with a 75amp charger/converter so maybe someone changed it over later so is not oem.
Check serial # with them and see what you actually have, maybe you Can put a smart wizard on it. I doubt they have been keeping that same model for all these years.
JohnH
As long as your converter has a charge wizard and you have confirmed that voltage does vary with bulk/absorption/float, you are good as is. Not a matter of age, just smart vs dumb.
And with this "smart charger" any battery connected to it (house bank unless modified to charge chassis battery as well) you can safely leave it on shore power 24/7.
Carl... Can you post a photo of your charger/converter? I know it's in a bad spot but that would help. Also, a photo of the "charge wizard" you have connected to it. My U225 is newer than yours and it came with an old-style charger that knew nothing about the batteries and simply sent current to them. I am pretty sure I could not have connected a charge wizard to it.
Edit: Never mind... I see you have a Progressive Dynamics unit so the Wizard should work fine on your coach. I do not think this came with your motor home, however.
FYI: It does not eliminate the need for something to keep the start batteries topped up. I don't have a Trik-l-charge on my start batts but I'm at the coach often enough to check on the voltage and run "boost" for a few hours.
If you have to remove the caps to the cells and add distilled water then that is a "wet cell" battery.
I'm curious to know if these 8D wet-cells are considered "deep cycle" too.
Craig
If a person were to google Inteli Power 9100 and model 9180...thats the unit I have. The "wizard" is a small box with a wire and is about 2"x2" & 1/2" thick. Its got a little wizard pic on it with one square botton. Im not in a position to post a pic at the time but my info about it is accurate. I did loik in all 3 of my 3-ring binder owners manuals and the ONLY info pic or anything else is only this. ...charger / converter 75amp.
Thats it. When I removed the Inteli Power I could see a place where 4 carriage bolts had been cut flush with the mounting surface in my battery bay. So, with that said, could an 80amp unit cause damage to any other part of my system? Or is it perfectly fine with the wizard connected?
Heres anorher question....does anyone think a Napa 8D battery is better than AC Delco?
Ive not found anything that mentions the AC as being a deep cycle. I at least want the 2 new wet cells to be deep cycle. I looked at AC warranty and its a prorated 36 month. Napa said 24 month.
The reason I ask about the batteries is this....I cant actually check to see if my Interi Power is good or not. The batteries are out, the two I have currently are old...one more than the other and I dont think its a good idea to start trying to "test" anything with old parts. The last thing I want to do is muck up my new alternator either.
Open to ideas about the whole thing.
Thanks again everyone :)
You have a Progressive Dynamics charger/converter. With the Charge Wizard pendant it is a "smart" charger and should not damage you batteries; wet cell (lead acid) or otherwise. But if your batteries are bad then it's not going to fix them.
The 75-amp from the charger should not damage anything. Your alternator probably puts out 180-amps at times. I just have a 45-amp charger as that was what was specified in my U225. I should probably have gotten one bigger but it seems to do the job (although the batteries were toasted long before I bought the RV and need replacement).
I use a Trimetric 2025 (about $150 at Amazon) which can give me a constant readout of the battery bank voltage (as well as amps in and amps out - and much more). You can do the same thing with a digital voltmeter (not a needle-type... but digital). With the charger connected measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should read about 14vdc when you first turn it on (or connect it) but after a few hours should go down to 13.1 or 13.2 vdc.
If it's putting out significantly more than 14vdc (14.8 vdc or so) then leave it be for 24 hours (it might be in "bulk" mode) and see if the voltage goes down to 13.2vdc. Voltage from a smart charger moves between "setpoints" depending upon the state of charge of the battery bank.
The PD Wizard pendant can override the automatic operation of the charger so you probably shouldn't press the button during the test.
You can do this on a bench as long as you have some batteries to connect to the charger. It shouldn't matter whether you test it with car or truck batteries. They are completely capable of absorbing 75-amps.
Someone bought batteries from O'Reilly (I think) and got a good deal. We should probably start a better thread about battery selection as this one might cause FT owners to bypass it thinking it wouldn't apply to them.
Craig
Carl, someone has replaced the original power converter as it did not come with the one you have as those were not made at that time, so sounds like you probably have a newer style, so might be just fine. 8D wet cell batteries should work just fine as that is what came in your coach. maintenance free are nice and do not make such a mess as the wet cell, but are expensive.
Ron, I also think that the charger was changed at some time (earlier post today) so carl should be ok
JohnH
Isnt the pd9180 actually a charger AND converter.
See, I told you guys I didnt know about this electronics stuff, lol
Ive almost got the fiberglass battery box work done and will be able to get it installed THEN ill get a couple new batteries and actually test that pd9180 so I know for sure if it needs replacing.
Im going to start a battery post as was mentioned earlier to see what information I can sift through that best fits my needs.
Thanks again all and I'll report back when im able to do a proper documentation of read-outs from my components.
Yes Carl it is, I just put charger in post as that is what we were relating to .
JohnH