Our coach had 4 propane appliances; Fridge, stove, water heater, and furnace. Now there are 3... Does anybody happen to know which feed on the manifold is is the fridge line? I figure someone who has done the residential fridge thing will know... Easy enough to figure out, but the manifold is between the drawer and the compartment wall and the fittings are difficult to access... except the bottom one. Hopefully, it is the bottom one I need to plug! ::)
Don
Don, we have 5 due to the extra heater in the 295 I guess and the line for fridge is the centre one on this coach, which I plugged.
JohnH
I need to know this too. I have all the build drawings, i am going to to see if it is clearly identifiable from drawings. For now I plugged it at the end but I like to plug it at the manifold.
If not we have to take one at a time and blow air ... i sure don't want to unscrew the lines that are nicely tight and working.
We also did not know which is which, so we chose to cap the fridge propane line behind the fridge. I was just not interested in opening lines to guess and create a leak. We figured that lines that have been in place for 18 years may be better left alone. Our propane line is still caped behind our 2.5 year old electric fridge. I also assume that it was random on how Foretravel put our 4 lines to the manifold.
Given the documentation that FT has done on the rest of the systems, I would think it would be the same scheme for all of them just to make it easier for the techs if nothing else... Since no one else (thanks John H.) has posted what they found, I will first try the third one down which would be the middle in a 5 propane appliance coach like John's. Roll the dice! ::)
Don
On my 2001 295 the refrigerator line was the fourth one down from the top out of five total connections.
Don,
Rather than rolling dice and potentially creating rebuild work for yourself (fittings that don't want to reseal), do you have an infra-red temp gun?
What I would try is extending/diverting the (already open) refrigerator propane line off to someplace safe (just use duct tape and a section of garden hose, or something similar). Then, with the refrigerator line fully open to atmosphere, I'd crack the propane tank isolation valve and see which regulator output line goes lower in temperature, as compared to the others. The propane expansion at the regulator output will create a temperature reduction in the gas. The more the flow, the more the temperature should drop. PV = mRT You might even be able to tell just by touching the regulator output lines.
Neal
Perhaps Barry L. is correct and it is chance which line on the manifold (which is actually just a series of ½" black pipe Tee's connected by nipples with one elbow at the end) goes to which appliance. That is except for the furnace line, which on our coach is a larger diameter copper tubing than the rest of them. Maybe because the single propane furnace on the 36" U270 is 35K BTU (not sure offhand what BTU capacity the two furnace coaches use, except that I know the rear is smaller). Anyway, what I learned about our coach is that the second from the top is (was!) for the Fridge. I first tried each in turn because they were easier to get to than the others. The bottom one is for the furnace. I ended up taking the manifold down and removing all the lines in order to be able to remove the ½" NPT to ¼" (I think it is ¼") flare fitting. It took considerable persuasion even after I had it clamped down on the picnic bench in front of me. I had to use my 4lb. precision percussive adjustment tool and a wrench to break it loose from the manifold ;D
When I remounted the manifold back to the compartment wall, I lowered the whole assembly down in an arc to the lower of the two screw holes so that the fittings are accessible and not tucked up between the door and the compartment wall. Maybe I will take pictures tomorrow...
Anyway, back together now and apparently leak free as far as I can tell with the bubble method and to my sense of smell. The flares had no problem re-sealing. Now I have an extra output which may see future use as an aux BBQ/Camp Chef stove/Gas log fire pit LP output...
Neal, great idea to use the IR gun... Oh well, perhaps someone else will benefit from it as they are searching threads for this very info.
Don
Neal, that sounds like it would work, especially because the manifold is so close to regulator, the cold could transfer to copper line.