This may seem an odd question to ask as someone considering a future purchase of a Foretravel coach, but being odd has never stopped me before. :D
First, a little background. We currently own a 2007 Alpenlite fifth-wheel. In many ways, it has been a great trailer - with the exception of the electric switches/valves for the dump tanks, specifically the black water tank. The switch was replaced last year, but the valve still only opens intermittently, and after our last trip did not open at all. As a result, my wife decided to have manual valves installed for both black and gray water, figuring the gray water tank could start acting up at any time. However, because of the way the plumbing was installed, any manual valve handles would have to be installed in such a way that crawling underneath to pull them would be required. I'm told cable valve handles could be installed but, again because of the way the plumbing was installed, additional cutting and drilling would be required adding several hundred dollars to the repair bill.
Now to my question. Do FT coaches in say the 1995 - 2003 model year range have electric or manual valve releases? If electric, do they have manual bypasses? If so, how easily accessed are those manual bypasses? Our current fifth wheel has been very good to us, but the plumbing appears to be a nightmare. Thanks.
Excellent question!
I can speak for our 2003, which has manual valve releases. Because of the tank configuration, they do have cables and to access the valves for replacement requires removing the back wall of the utility bay.
We have since added an access hatch so some "behind the wall" service can be done without dismantling the wall
Wet bay access hatch (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15478.0)
And our 2003 U295 also has manual valves.
It might be the electric valves were installed as options or manditory when the valves were not accessible.
I had manual valves with cables on my 99,2000 and 2001.
My 2002 is a U270, and thus has manual valves for everything. As far as I am concerned, simpler is better, and I don't have to worry about electric valve failures.
My two control valves are in the same bay, and the black tank is cable-operated. I think the Black valve itself is over on the other side, behind the Man-i-blok water manifold. I'd also point out that the handle of this valve, when open, protrudes directly out so a person cannot accidentally leave the valve open and close the bay door (a neophyte mistake, leaving the Black valve open to dry out while sitting). Over time, it has become hard to get that cable to completely close the valve, so whenever I took off the outer cap, there was a little bit of surprise mess. I added a third manual valve at the fitting last winter. I am enjoying using it immensely on this trip, as after I dump the Black, I am closing the third valve and opening the grey to backfill the Black for a few seconds, then close the grey and reopen the third valve and see that it is really helping to clean out the black. Incidentally, the 2002 U270 has a black tank hose fitting to the right of the fresh water fitting to use another hose to back flush/wash out the tank. I'm not sure what year that started.
My 1999 and 2000 both had manual cable operated valves
My 98, 295 has manual valves, with long 12" additions to the pull rods handles. I did access them for service with a simple removal of the wet bay wall. I also added a pop out access panel to my wet bay wall. Now I am able to both look and reach in to touch the valves to check for any leaks. Total rebuild or service time was under 2 hours as I had to figure out what I was doing.
Thanks everyone! I'm feeling better about Foretravel as our prospective first coach all the time. :D
Ditto here on our 1997 U295 and 1999 U320
best, paul
Our 2002 U320 has electric valves. I was really dreading getting into them when I recently had one stuck closed. Ours are made by Drain Master Drain Master Recreational Vehicle, Marine, Industrial (http://www.drainmaster.com/main/) and have a manual "T" handle that will open or close the valve. The manual "T" handle is made of stainless steel and can be used numerous times until a replacement arrives. I thought about putting in a Valterra but found the Drain Master name on the valve housing and decided to order from them after visiting their web site and talking to one of their techies. Basically Plug and Play. Ours have lasted for 12 years or so and I have replaced them for $88.00 each. Drain Master was very helpful. There is 1 screw that is very difficult to get to on our Black tank valve and it took the smaller hands of my DW to get to it. Other than the one hard screw the process was pretty simple. I like the electric valves as I have heard that the cables are sometimes problematic and I didn't have to figure out how to get the pull cable from the passenger side over to the wet bay. :D
It's good that you have the manual bypass. Our trailer does not. Nor is it really an option, unfortunately.
After going to the repair place this morning and having things shown and explained to me, it looks like staying electric is our only option. The cables would have to be run in such a way that they could easily get twisted or stuck when opening and closing. Plus, the release handles would have to come out the opposite side of the trailer from the valves themselves. Otherwise, the cable run would be even longer because of how the trailer's plumbing is set up.
I did find out the valves themselves are good, so it appears the issue is electric, either a loose connection or broken wiring. I'll have the repair folks see if they can trace and repair it, then see if I can learn anything when I have them explain it to me. :)
Hi Walt,
Our 1997 U 320 has manual valves, no cables. Not hard to access.
Raymond
Good to know. While I understand the "need" and desire of some to have all the bells and whistles, as it were, it seems to me the simpler some things are kept, the better.