Are newer inverters less power hungry on "standby" or low power? I assume one problem with an inverter big enough to run the microwave is that it uses more power at lower output than a smaller unit would use.
Kinda foolish to use such a massive device to just run my laptop and cell phone chargers while boondocking.
Small inverters are cheap and fairly efficient. I use a 400 watt for front electronics, 150 watt for rear tv. and 400 watt for
bay tv/entertainment. That way, only use the one you need, no need for big inverter that uses 4 amps just standing by.
Our new Magnum MSH3012M (3000 watt inverter) draws 30w while inverting with no load (about 2.2A) or >7w (about .5A)while in search mode i.e., from the manual;
It isn't installed yet, so time will tell how well it works, but it sounds pretty good to me...
Don
Wow, I had no idea the Bose system was that hungry. When I get the coach back from repairs, i'll check out how much less the inverter draws with the Bose off.
By the way, my Bose subwoofer under the sink appears to power the entire Bose system. I already have a switch added to turn it off, but for a different reason. My Bose often hangs up and fails to respond to cammands from either the remote or the buttons. I found switching it off with my under the sink switch, and back on, ties the problem for a day or two. I got one of those pendant switches for turning Christmas tree lights on or off, picked it up at Big Lots last Christmas season.
I believe my factory installed inverter is relatively efficient, it is just that it is always on and always powering devices on standby designed for residential use.
In the back of your Foretravel Manual there are pages that show what items are on which 120 volt circuit and what expected current draw. This is done to make sure that with all loads on it does not exceed the circuit capacity. They allow 3 amps for the Bose outlet under the sink. Maybe that is only happening when the cannons are roaring in the 1812 Overture and volume is at max. Or more likely the Allman Brothers.
Roger
The Bose 321 system is spec'ed at 120 volts 300 watts. No mention of mode. I would hope standby is less, but who knows? I will check it out when I get my coach back.
How do you have the smaller inverters wired up? Where do you get 12v from?
Used 12 gauge zip cord. For front tv, sat. receiver etc., ran wire from big dc panel under pass side dash, and put inverter
in compartment behind glass door over pass side dash, (used inverter that uses led readout for watts and voltage). That way,
I can just glance up and monitor use, and battery voltage through smoked glass, while watching tv. [37 inch tv and directv receiver use about 80 watts]
For rear tv, tapped into light circuit inside old tv cabinet and put inverter in there behind new flat screen, as I did not require
3 big lights in bathroom, used switch for one of them to turn inverter on and off.
For radio and tv in front bay, used existing 12 volt plug in the bay and mounted inverter on bulkhead next to it.
Have since added freezer in second bay, wired pure sine wave [600 watt] inverter on bulkhead there,(used 10 gauge} and wired into dc panel in that bay. [compressors run better on pure sine wave] Have a remote controlled plug in, on inverter, that way, when dry camping, can operate remote in coach to turn off freezer at night to conserve batteries.
Freezer will only gain a couple of degrees overnight if well insulated.
I do the same as JCUS does... several smaller inverters for individual requirements. Both the front and back television sets (LED HDTV) along with their associated BluRay players draw less than 50 watts so small inverters that can plug into the 12vdc cigarette lighters are safe for those. I checked my Tailgator Dish satellite system and it only needs about 26 watts so the same small inverter can run all of those (I have a $79 pure-sine 180-watt inverter from Amazon for this).
Another small inverter runs the interal computer system and intranet (consisting of a Raspberry Pi computer running Linux (and using the rear HDTV for a monitor - which is on its own inverter), the internal WiFi access point, a DC-powered switching hub, and the rear Ubiquiti external WiFi system, and the cell phone booster (Wilson Sleek). This sounds more complicated than it is. Most of the time I have all this stuff turned off and we just use smartphones for Internet stuff.
(The solar charge controller - a Midnite Solar Classic 150 - will be hard wired into this Intranet real soon now.)
We also have a couple of small inverters that plug into cigarette lighter sockets to charge tablets, smart phones and the like if we don' t have a DC charger handy.
Anything else that needs AC power is just plugged into the 1500-watt pure-sine inverter installed under the refrigerator in the compartment once used for the vacuum cleaner.
We don't use the microwave on the inverter. Our plans are to just fire up the generator - which probably needs to be exercised anyway - for that.
Craig
I pretty much have no need for my 2000 Watt inverter! Everything is propane or 12v!
Barry talked in another thread about how he added a double pole-double throw switch after his inverter sub panel so he can switch all the inverter 120v outlets over to a smaller inverter he installed. Additional Inverter (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/additional_inverter.html) I think I will probably do something like this and put in a small 200 or 300w unit...or make it modular so I can choose between 100, 300, 500, etc. I just don't feel like having small inverters all over the place.
For now I just ordered a cheap $25 175W portable that I can plug into 12v outlets to run laptop/hotspot/cell phone chargers. I don't watch TV, and the coach stereo sounds as good or better than the [overpriced/over-hyped] Bose anyway.