I am planning to install a 1K or 2K Inverter very soon for my new Residential fridge. I plan to install the Inverter next to AC & DC barker panels right under the foot of the bed. Instead of running dedicated DC side cables from
the inverter to batteries I think I can just "T" in to the existing DC cables that are connected to DC barker box. I took a look & i see that it should be very easy to unattach them from the DC barker box & attach it to a T and get new short run cables for the Inverter & the DC barker box from the new T.
I just have no clue as of this writing what kind of an electrical "T" junction box i need to find. I will take a look at Grainger's web site.
Do you think this will work, well i think it will work but question is a "design" is it a good way to do it?
I believe essentially i will end up extending the current length of the DC panel battery cables for about 8-12 inches.
I will use the inverter for the fridge maybe 20% of the time, so i just simply plan on using an extension cord for the AC side of the inverter.
Just follow this original write up and you will be good to go. If you are just using an extn cord you do not need the DPDT switch but should put in the fuse link on 12v cable from box. I have a 100amp as my inverter in 1000w. make sure you use a #12 wire or better extension. The 12v feed should be at least the same size as what is there now. You do not need a 2k one and in fact you may only need an 800w.if that is all you are feeding. I know some of Forum will chime in with all the technical designs so I have not bothered as this set up works fine for me.
Additional Inverter (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/additional_inverter.html)
JohnH
Thank you John.
Some fine details in that "Additional Inverter" post from Barry's website is not very clear to me, but it did help. I think i understand what i need to do. I just need to buy the parts and put them together.
I found the attached picture on line ...
John,
When I tested the new residential fridge for a week in my garage before installing it. I discovered that the fridge utilize 190w max.
Based on few folks here I decided to go with (PROwatt SW 1000 DC-to-AC Power Inverter) I am still at the fence about getting a Go Power.
Briefly i thought about getting a 2K because for $125 more ... if for any reason i need more later on, but for now be just fine with the 1K.
Al
You might look to use something that electricians call Polaris connectors though I'm sure there are other manufacturers who make a similar product. Be aware that they aren't cheap though.
POLARIS Mechanical Connectors - Wire Connectors - Grainger Industrial Supply (http://www.grainger.com/category/mechanical-connectors/wire-connectors/electrical/ecatalog/N-dedZ1z0bgl1)
Going with a higher output inverter you have to remember that it would "pull" a lot more juice from the batteries so the size wiring you use for that feed would have to be larger than what is needed for a 1000w one. Plan ahead if you think you may change at any time in future. If I remember when I did mine I just attached the new feed wire to the same connecting block on back of 12v fuse box positive buss, and it is this wire that the fuse goes on inline. I will look later to check that out and report if it is different.
JohnH
Robert,
I like the Polaris connectors from Grainger.
Thank you,
AL