When we bringing our FT home in in about a week we will be storing at a facility with a waiting list for power hook up. I have been searching the forum (sure it somewhere just have not found it) as to how often and long should either the generator or engine be run so I do not end up improperly charging and or allowing the batteries to self-discharge. I have read should never let engine idle for more than 10 minutes so I'm not sure if I should even use engine rather just the gen.
When in storage I will be driving it about every 20 days for about 20 miles, would that be enough to keep batteries up?
Thank you,
Gary
I would think so. You can always disconnect the batteries, but then you have added work at the beginning and end of each trip. On the other hand, it would make it somewhat more difficult for a thief to drive off with your coach. Doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.
will it be stored outside? if so you could make sure you have a trik-l-start (to keep your chassis batteries charged) and put your generator into Auto mode -
I hate to leave mine unplugged more than a few days, and I added a dedicated charger/battery conditioner for the chassis. Â The house batteries are charged by the charger/invertor, anytime hooked up to shore power or generator is running
Lots of battery info in the past posts by using the search function
I store my coach without power by removing the negative lead from the coach and chassis batteries. If you have AGM or Gel batteries and they are fully charged when you begin the storage period, they will last for months with very little loss.
A little solar will do a lot of good if all you need is to keep the batteries from discharging.
I would think any safety minded storage would not allow gen to start with no one around.
I do not see the problem of removing neg leads on batteries and is no biggie in my mind to do this each time to keep them up. If they do not keep a charge for 20 days then you know they need replacing. Mine are charged by solar and are always 100% as I keep coach in open
JohnH
Wouldn't a salesman switch or a blade switch to the battery work?
I have 2 one for coach battery one for engine in the engine compartment ^.^d
Will add a "side" comment: Do NOT start the coach engine unless you can drive at least 25 highway miles. Anything less just adds moisture to the crankcase. Said another way, it is not possible for the oil (not just coolant) to reach operating temperature except under load.
Agree with Brett. I drive at least 30 miles every 4 to 5 weeks. I disconnect the batteries (all) at the negative ground with a battery switch I installed at both battery banks. (Also run the genset under load while exercising the coach engine, trans, etc.)
I stored my first coach outside. I would drop by every week and run the generator and charge the batteries. I eventually put 300 watts of solar to keep them charged.
Yep, SOLAR.. pc
+2 on solar. Even though our coach is stored with power, I let the solar system do most of the battery maintenance (and all the chargine in summer). Does not take much solar power to keep up with the "parasitic" loads and it even extends your ability to dry camp. Depending upon what they will charge you for a hookup, you might find it cheaper to use a good solar system and charge controller anyway. If they want $100 a month for powered storage then one year of that would pay for 240-watts of solar panel and an MPPT charge controller.
240 watt solid panels are around $200 (the 24vdc versions) and the best solar charge controller, a Midnite Classic 150, is $650 but can handle a killowatt of panels allowing for expansion. Amazon has MPPT solar charge controller for around $100 (you'd need a 24vdc to 12vdc model that can handle at least 20-amps).
Amazon.com : MPPT Tracer 2210RN Solar Charge Controller Regulator 12/24V INPUT (http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-2210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPH12/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1408119488&sr=1-4&keywords=mppt+charge+controller)
There are some new flexible (thinner and lighter but more expensive) out there... like this one for just under $400: EVTV Motor Verks Store: Flexible Solar Panel 180w, Solar, Boat and Golf, (http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=180wsolarpanel)
Flat, flexible panels offer little drag and some of them can even be (carefully) walked on. Almost invisible from the ground, too. They might even increase resale value.
But if you just want to keep up with the parasitic loads you can buy a 50-watt 12vdc panel, build a frame for it facing towards the southern sun, and a cheap little controller and use clamps to hook it up to the battery bank. Under $200.
Solar panels do not mix well (they have to have nearly the same voltage in parallel and nearly the same current in series) so if you think you might want more than just the bare minimum it's best to buy all the same panels at one go. Saves on shipping costs, too.
Craig
I will be storing outside so eventually solar is the answer. We have a lot more sun in south fl than storage with power and it's free. However, since the roof needs to be painted before tackling the installation of a solar panel a disconnect switch on house and chassis batteries sounds like the way to go.
PPL sells a knife switch that looks good and simple.
Appreciate the feed back
You may be able to run a 120 cord to the plug in cord of the coach. This is plenty to run your coach on without using ac/microwave etc. but will run the chargers etc. done this many times when I have brought the coach home before I had a hook up installed. Ran tvs etc all ok.
Craig, saw a 5w solar that plugs into lighter socket, will that work? ::)
Just for fully charged engine battery.