Some of you remember when I couldn't get my U225 started in order to visit the kids for Christmas. That was solved when we discovered that there a three solenoids involved in the starting process (not two). The first solenoid is in the dashboard which energizes the second solenoid on the isolator panel in the engine area which then routes current to the starter solenoid on the Cummins' starter itself.
The second solenoid, the one on the isolator panel, has been replaced 3 times since then and the last one quit working. The DW says she's tired of going back and jumping that solenoid to start the engine.
This last one was a Cole Hersee "200-amp" unit.
It lasted exactly 4 "starts"!
Any suggestions?
Craig
Craig, Part # on the Cole Hersee contactortor. .?
Craig,
They should last for many years. The isolator panel solenoid is normally used for a remote start with a button in the engine compartment. The last owner may have miswired yours some how. Check your wiring against the Foretravel schematic.
Like Dave above, what part number are you using?
Pierce
For the dash solonoid
Dash solenoid removal (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19024.msg132603#msg132603)
I think something else is wrong, as there are not that many amps flowing from Aux Solenoid on isolator panel. And it should never fail.
You could use a temp hookup from that solenoid to dash, using Foretravel spare wires.
Or you could turn on ignition and yourself go back to isolator panel.
You may have a failing ignition solenoid in front, or have a low voltage problem keeping neutral start from functioning properly.
Or if all checks out, put a voltmeter or better a 12-volt LED on AUX Solenoid to see if your manual activation of the that solenoid's small coil wire, registers voltage on wire to starter. If voltage is present, the starter is the problem.
We simply jumper the two hi-current connections and that starts the engine immediately. One must be careful to ensure that the shift lever is in neutral if you do this because the engine will srart in any gear!
But gf there was an issue with the dash solenoid why will it work several times? I think it's too much current fort hat unit even if it is "rated" for 200 amps.
I'm going to order a blue sea unitI think.
On vacation but will check part no. Also old solenoid ohm out at 16 across actuater coil. Makes me suspect high current contscts.
Craig
Craig, if you are on holiday why not just take it apart and clean contacts.
All you need is a hammer, flat blade screw driver and some emery cloth or such.
Use the s' driver to open up the crimped top then remove contactor,clean copper contact ring, put together and hammer the rolled over edge back again. This will get you home or??
I guarentee it takes only 30 minutes to do once off. Have done it 5 times at least and saves buying one. I sealed the crimp up with a 2 part epoxy or you can just use a good silicone.
JohnH
Blue Sea Systems 12 24 Volt L Series Solenoid Switch 9012 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-12-24-Volt-L-Series-Solenoid-Switch-9012-/231193901451?vxp=mtr)
Oops! Sorry, they just sold the last one. :-( But watch for this eBay vendor to re-list this item at this same excellent price. He runs the sale every couple of weeks.
Very simple to check with a test light. Put the test light clamp on a known ground. Check the probe on the hot side of the solenoid to make sure the test light does light up. Then put the probe on the small wire that activates the solenoid and have someone turn the ignition key to the start position and see if the test light lights up. If it does and the solenoid clicks then put the probe on the output terminal of the solenoid to see if it lights up, if it does not then you know the contactds inside are bad, but if it does light up, then would suspect the starter.
I have been following this post and have had a solenoid problem myself. Now this may sound goofy but I would check all ground connections starting with the batterys. I had a poor ground connection causing the solenoid not to engage even though I had voltage to it.
Doesn't sound goofy to me. When I have a electrical problem, that is usually my second trouble shooting step:
1. Does it have power?
2. Does it have a
good ground?
3. I ask myself "What did
you do to screw this thing up!"
I begin with step 3, then proceed to step 1 and 2.
Roland