Yes?
Or No?
best, paul
Not IMO.. pc
Naturally, you have a bit of a leak but as long as you get normal pressure after starting, you can find the leak at your leisure. How long does it take to leak down? A Dollar Store with a spray bottle and soap solution should do it.
Pierce
No. But start the process of keeping a sharp eye on it and locating the leak. We have made our own bubble stuff for the spray bottle ... or you can go to Walmart and buy some kid's bubble stuff. The "real" leak detector bubbles, used to find tiny leaks that the home made stuff may not find, can be bought at any auto supply store.
Paul, if you have the sliding floor over steps I bet that cylinder is leaking for a start. Next are the check valves on tanks to stop air bleeding back thru 1/2" line. There may be one on you line out of Air Dryer. I found that one too leaking as FT Mech Bob had put it back wrong way around. After those fix's I have 70-80lbs of air after a week every time. Those checks are easy to take apart and clean or replace (if you can get under that is). My first thought is the slide cylinder. Tough one to get to without a pit or hoist, then it is easy with gen slid out max,or, install 12v solenoid in air line feeding the slide to shut air off when not using slide.
JohnH
Paul,
Don't forget to check your dash park brake. Mine was leaking down about that much overnight and that was one of the places where there was a leak. If you jiggle it around you and hear air escaping, it could be a worn out O ring. I took mine apart, cleaned and greased it per excellent instructions from Wyatt Sabourin, and found a rebuild kit with the O rings and other parts to replace for a Bendix PP-1 valve. http://epi.hbsna.com/products/product.asp?msi=0&sid=2A864E46FA05463188C38D34ECE731CE&pf_id=281126K&dept_id=1733 (http://epi.hbsna.com/products/product.asp?msi=0&sid=2A864E46FA05463188C38D34ECE731CE&pf_id=281126K&dept_id=1733)
I found a leaking 60psi air pressure switch on a "T" in the cluster of air lines underneath by the steering column. I took that one off cleaned it up and tightened real good. I also had to replace a leaking tank valve up front and both ride height valves in the rear.
You can easily check these areas with a soap bubble solution. Be sure to let all the air out before working on any of these.
Jerry aka Murph
QUESTION:
If I tighten the air fittings will I disturb the seal on the fitting, making a not leaking fitting start to leak?
Is there a paste thread sealer on the fittings that dries, then cracks when disturbed by tightening, then causing a leak?
Mine stopped leak down at 70psi. I believe that is controlled by a check valve that is to hold there separate of any leaks. I recall it would leak to zero after about two weeks.
While that was technically ok, it was not what was supposed to be. Mechanics fixed that valve and after that it would not leak below 70. Did that for several months. However it has returned to a very slow leak allows going to 55, my latest reading of two weeks.
I need to revisit with the mechanic if I heard that right about a check valve would, if all worked right, stop the loss at 70.
The air cylinders for the entry step in the retracted mode was a big leak for me. Can't hear it with the engine running. Just happened to leave the ignition in the on position with engine off, air powered up enough to retract steps with door closed, and then I discovered the leak.
Mike
Paul, here is my fix and it works fine.
Step cover (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20369.msg148054#msg148054)
JohnH
Lon,
Compression fittings can benefit by being tightened. They are used on flexible line fittings. You will see sealant on some fittings. You should reseal those.
Keith
Timely info John, as I have been planning to do this to ours for awhile now. I have had some weird step cover behavior ever since getting the step upgrade at Xtreme. I could call Rance, but since I want to eliminate leak down wherever possible, this is a probably a better fix for it than trying to figure out why it does what it does! Just for the curious, the strange behavior is that the step cover will often slide out when the coach has been sitting long enough to leak down to around 55psi. It doesn't do it every time, but quite annoying because sometimes it won't stay in when I try to push it back manually and so have to fire up the Cummins to build pressure. Even more annoying, if the coach settles to one side/end or the other after awhile and I want to raise that side/end instead of drop the other, the step cover comes out as the 12V compressor adds air to the low side/end air springs. Sometimes, if the residual air pressure is high enough, the step cover will come back in on its own. Additionally, every time I start the coach when the the pressure is low, the step cover will cycle- that is come out and then return on its own as the coach pressure builds past 65psi or so... weird, eh? But I digress, there is a question or two here...
Since we no longer have the air cylinders for the step (our steps are electric now), I am thinking I could put the air solenoid valve before the regulator and eliminate a few connections that could be potential leaks. The solenoid valve that I bought at Princess Auto here in Edmonton is only rated at a max continuos pressure of 7 bar (102PSI), so I guess I need to place it after the regulator, unless I get one similar to the one you referenced from Amazon which appears to be 142PSI rated. Does it sound like I am thinking about it in the right way?
Don
No.... Leaking down to 50 psi overnight is not an immediate problem.
Don,
I had the problem of the step cover closing and than retracting during pressure buildup. This happened after changing one of the electromechanical air switches behind the steps. I had hooked one of the air lines in the area backwards. After correcting this the step cover worked normally.
Don, as you can see in the pics I put the solenoid AFTER the pressure reducer as found it the easiest way to do so the drop down step plumbing was not altered. The reducer is set at 60lbs for sliding floor so the solenoid you got is fine if plumbed same way.. I wired a toggle switch up to dash with built in light so can see when air is closed on that cylinder. Barry L said they have same set up but 3 way but mine works fine so far. See his comment on same link I gave
When are you due to be in BC, as possible some of our plans may change in a week or so. We have to wait to see.
JohnH
John,
I will put it after the regulator, I can always change it later with a higher rated solenoid. I will take a closer look at what Barry L. wrote as I am not sure what you mean by three way since the solenoid is normally closed and only using power while the step cover is active. An LED indicator on the switch sound like a good idea to let you know when you have the possibility of losing air. Another thought might be to just energize the solenoid while the key is on... Maybe add another relay to reduce current draw on the ignition relay.
We still plan to be out your way on or around Sept 15. We will update as we go... It would be fun if it works out that we can meet up, but I hope the stars align just right for you and Ruth to have your travel plans fall into place regardless.
Don
Thanks for posting your experience Felix... I had wondered if reversing the lines might have that effect, but I figure Rance knew what he was doing. Oh well, everybody makes mistakes once in awhile. Quite probably a quick phone call to Xtreme would have cleared it up...
Maybe I we'll try it before I put the solenoid in just to see... I will still of course be putting it in in any case.
Don