Happy day.. :) :) found a source for the Parker HTFL fuel tubing Foretravel is using without having to buy 500' of the stuff....
50' is $1.66 foot..... ^.^d
Parker Hannifin High Temperature Diesel Fuel Line Tubing 1/2" OD Sold in 50' (https://www.hydsupply.com/HTFL-8B-BRN.html)
Cheers
Ted
Hi Ted,
What product will you be using for the 5/8 inch tank to engine fuel line?
Thanks,
Raymond
Raymond, we had new fuel lines put on at the mothership. I could be wrong, but I believe that the larger of the two fuel lines they put was actually a half inch. I have a sample of it in the Joey bed and I will have a look see tomorrow. I guess that the rational is that these new plastic fuel lines have less internal friction and don't need to be as large an ID as the old style... either that, or this was what Foretravel could get and they figured it would be large enough. ::) In any case, I was told this was the same size that they used on the new 600HP IH's etc. I wondered at the difference in size while they were doing the fuel line replacement, but just put my trust that they new what they were doing and so far so good. The size of the plastic generator line was ⅜" if memory serves... Anyway, the smaller size of the new main engine lines left me more room in the tray to pull more wire and conduit through...
Don
Hi Don,
Thanks for the info.
Raymond
Raymond,
Had a look at my piece of Parker fuel tubing. It doesn't have the number referenced in the subject line of this post. It has "Parker Parflex HTFL 10 High Temp Diesel Fuel Tubing ⅝" O.D. 140WP N0121308631 Extruded in U.S.A." printed on it. Interesting that they call it out by the outside diameter... The generator fuel line looks the same except it is ⅜" O.D.
Don
I talked to Foretravel the other day and they use HTFL-8B for the main... and HTFL-6B for the return....
Also interesting is fuel tubing is gauged by the OD not ID...
This post has a lot of info on replacing fuel lines:
Old Fuel Lines (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16988.msg111378#msg111378)
I believe "Tubing" is always measured on the OD, whereas "Hose" is always measured on the ID.
It is interesting that they specifically mentioned HTFL-8B as the main fuel line size. I picked up this scrap off the shop floor while they were doing my fuel line replacement... after all, I paid for it ;D It doesn't have the letter 'B' printed on it after the "HTFL10". I suppose which they choose to use depends on the adapters and fittings they have to use to mate up with existing fittings components on the coach. I do recall that the charge for all the brass fittings was almost as much for the fuel line.
Don
Well I'll be darned... that explains a lot! Learn something everyday here on foreforum...
Don
Don, every day schooled here ^.^d
One day hope to teach.
Don, Thanks for the info... To be safe I am going to go with 5/8" tube..... Do it right the first time and only have to do it once.
Cheers
Ted
Okay Ted... Now I am confused. I just looked at the invoice from FOT for the fuel line replacement (just got the brilliant idea!). On the invoice, it plainly states 30 ea (feet) of Fuel Line, HTFL-8B-B @ $2.61 (foot) and 60 ea Fuel Line, HTFL-6B-B @ $2.06.
Now I picked up two scraps, one of each for the Gen and for the main... or so I thought. I believe that I evan saw them cut this piece off a longer run. The only thing I can think of is that there are several branches back by the motor for the fuel water separator and for the fuel cooler. Maybe the ⅝" HTFL10 was for part of that. I was there at the coach the whole time it was being done, but I might have missed that because there were four guys going at it and I couldn't follow everything. I sure don't want to steer anybody wrong on this, since it is such a royal pain to do the job. Now I can't figure there would be a down side to a slightly larger diameter tubing to make it easier for the lift pump to supply the injection pump, but what do I know... I apologize for any misdirection, but I believed what I saw with my own eyes (or thought I saw). Tomorrow, I will pop the engine hatch and see what I can see.
Don
Don,
Don't worry about misdirection, none taken. When I called FOT the other day they told me the records showed my coach to have 34' of 3/8" main fuel hose when built. When I questioned the 3/8 as being the return he rechecked and said no that's the main feed..... One of the reasons I am leaning to the 5/8 tube is I think it will be easier to attach to the old hose to pull thru, as the new 5/8 OD tube will push tight inside the old somewhat shrunk 5/8 ID hose. I am not sure how important the difference in hose size is.. the tank ports are 1/2" and the #10 fittings on the fuel filter only have a 3/8 ID.... There still has to be a reason Foretravel used 5/8 hose and not smaller in production, any smaller hose would of been lower in cost and accounting would not of allowed the extra expense without a reason...
Cheers
Ted
Well, I am not crazy... at least when it comes to our fuel line size. The fuel line at the fuel filter/water separator is ⅝" O.D. This size doesn't show up on the invoice, so maybe this is a short loop and they forgot to bill me for it (doesn't sound too likely does it?). Don't know yet, but when I have a chance to see the main and return lines that run from the fuel tank, I will definitely be checking into it.
Don
Don, I just talked to FOT service about the hose / tube size issues and was told when they replace hose all dimensions stay the same the only change is from hose to tube... Looks like you better not trust your parts invoices for FOT. to be correct. If we did you would have 1/2 tube and I would have 3/8 .. :o
Cheers
Ted
Has anyone here been able to find a by the foot dealer for this series hose? It seams like all the information is for bulk quantities. thanks Larry
Hi Larry,
There is another post, on this forum, this week, that has a fifty foot price for the 1/2" htfl line. The price was $1.66 per foot. Check it out. I could be wrong. I think Ted H, a member here, is the finder/author. Check out re: parker htfl -8b fuel hose. It is being talked about today.
Raymond
Update of finding fuel tube... Motion Flow Control.
- MFCP, Inc. (http://www.mfcpinc.com/locations)
Is a Parker distributor and will sell by the foot..
Cost for #10 fuel tube was $2.03 foot ordered from their Portland store and shipped from the Albuquerque store. The other source I posted only had 1/2"
Ted, Thanks so much for the suppliers. And thanks to all that responded. By the way in the hose business when you look at a part number for a size and see a- number that will usually denote the size. Take that number over 16 and there you go. -6 6/16 3/8 -8 8/16 1/2 I think that came from the A N standards. again thanks . Larry
Don, When I was looking at your invoice from your change out I may have answered your dilemma with Ted. There is a charge on there for a -8x-10 adapter taking your -8 hose to something that is -10. Also the -8 fittings used are air brake fittings and most air brake is 1/2" and I'll bet they are a lot easier to find. Larry
I just ordered most of the fitting shown on Don's invoice... The 2 VS68NTA 10-8 is a 1/2" male pipe to #10 tube NTA compression fittings, needed to attach #10 tube to 1/2" pipe. The O502-10-8 - ORB- 1/2 F is the port adaptor on the 700 fuel filter...needed to change the port fitting from 37 degree JIC to 1/2 pipe so the VS68NTA will fit. The JIC adaptor is a #10 37 degree flare to 1/2" pipe adaptor fitting needed to attach one of the VS68NTA fitting at the fuel tank.. my guess is FOT used this fitting and did not change out the 1/2 tank to flare fitting.... All of the fittings fit #10 ... Don checked the size and it is #10 tube, My take is FOT parts charged out the wrong tubing..
Cheers
Ted
Thanks for the info on the fittings Larry & Ted. I suspect you may be right... won't know for sure until I have access to the main and return lines to verify the size. I am happy with the result, a fuel tight system with high hopes for longevity! :D Good luck on your project Ted, many are in the same boat.
Don
Ted, Are the adapters and fittings you have brass or steel? From my old hose and fitting days, brass fittings are SAE society of automotive engineers and steel fittings are JIC joint industrial congress. SAE 45 degree flair SAE 37 degree flair , but no problem with the seal. All the thread sizes are the same WITH The Exception of-6 and -10 the thread sizes are different on (only those 2) and they will not interchange.I have suspicions that is where the 1/2 5/8 confusion is .A JIC fitting -8 will not fit a 1/2" sae fitting. Also I have always heard JIC and AN (army Navy) fittings refered to as - numbers and the SAE fittings refered to as fractions. BY the way AN fittings are 371/2 degree flair and all the thread sizes will interchange with JIC. Hope all are now thoroughly confused. have a nice day Larry
So for our 36' coach we need...
30 ft HTFL-10B-BRN 5/8" diesel fuel line
60 ft HTFL-6B-BRN 3/8" diesel fuel line
And the appropriate fittings (and maybe a few extra ft just to be sure)
Any reason not to buy now to have on hand for when the time comes?
John H. Let us know how the access port project works out.
Rudy L. was telling me about his fuel line change out. Two or three guys, all day, very dirty.
Roger
Roger,
Here is a link where a hatch was cut in the floor.
Replacing Generator fuel line on '99 U320 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=14104.0)
As for fittings (only from the tank to the fuel water filter), assuming you have 5/8 fuel hose. Starting at the engine fuel water filter (Winn or Racor 700) and moving forward:
The Winn and Racor ports are 7/8-14 ORB (O Ring Boss) with a #10 ORB to #10 JIC (37 flare) port adapter.. (this is the flared fitting you see when you remove the hose) you will need to change the port fitting to a #10 ORB to Female 1/2" pipe (Parker part # 10-1/2-F50G-S) in order to use the male NTA tube compression fitting (Parker Part # VS68NTA - 10 -8) required for the 5/8 tube. You could leave the #10 JIC port adapter in place and use a #10 Female JIC to 1/2" Female NPT adaptor then the NTA tube fitting but you have added one more fitting in the line and additional weight hanging from the filter.
At the Tank end FOT does not remove any fitting from the tank... my thoughts are they do not want to disturb the fuel pick up tube fitting. They use the #10 female JIC to 1/2" Female Pipe and the Parker VS68NTA fitting...
So you need:
1 Parker 10-1/2-F50G-S Port fitting: Parker F5OG | Parker Pipe Fittings & Adapters (http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/fittings/tube-fittings/pipe/reducers-exapnders-conversions/parker-f5og/)
2 Parker VS68NTA-10-8 Tube to 1/2" pipe fittings: Parker - VS68NTA-10-8 (http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=DA&vgnextcatid=10723&vgnextcat=VS68NTA%20%20MALE%20CONNECTOR%20WITH%20SEALANT&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=VS68NTA-10-8&Wtky=)
1 #10 female JIC to 1/2 pipe: SAE 37° (JIC) Swivel Nut Connector (http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/6504.htm)
I have not addressed the lines and fitting from the Fuel/Water filter to the engine or the genny lines.. one thing at a time for this old guy. :))
Some things I have learned:
Do Not trust FOT Parts for correct info. Their records show my 97 M11 U320 to have been built with 34' of 3/8 fuel hose. and say the replacement tube used is 1/2". also their parts invoice may or may not show the correct description of the parts used.
The fitting used for HTFL are the same as used for Air Brake tube. use NTA compression. do not use push to lock
Air brake tube is also rated for fuel.. BUT air brake tube is rated at -40 to + 200 degrees. High temp fuel tube (Parker HTFT) is rated at -50 to 266 degrees.
Hope this helps some...
Cheers
Ted
Roger et al, when I do (which now looks like I do not need too-hopefully) the lines I will be doing so on the outside of underbelly, not thru' the basement upper cowlings. I do not see the need to go thru all that work just for fuel lines. The previous owner has strung a sch40 3/4 plastic pipe under there at least 5 yrs ago(for wiring from front to back- I do not think he knew about the spare wires already put in by FT) and it is not protected and has never been hit or?. I plan to run the line in a sch40 pipe and run this pipe inside a alum channel which is bolted to the underside thereby having double protection should the coach bottom out. The tank is next to front bulkhead panneling so I figure a curved elbow from top of tank to a vertical pce of pipe then into another 90 deg curved elbow to tight under fibbreglass sheeting then thru pvc pipe to filter location. This pipe is also inside the channel running the full length of underbelly then up thru' another 90 deg elbow to filter. I will leave the return line alone as it is free flowing back to tank. The channel will have pieces welded to it at every cross frame tubing (Or as many as necessary) so lots of support for it. This will be easy to do from under coach with Pit.
The genset lines will be a piece of cake to do again because of Pit and I have already figured that one out before.
We are going to change the carpet for something else in living area so cutting it up does not bother me. When I do this hole in floor if I find the fuel line is not showing any cracks or whatever, I may not even bother with the previous comments but simply tape up the ends and fittings with "Rescue tape"
I have used this tape to fix pressure lines and water ones in a Prevost along with a hydraulic brake line and all where fine till able to replace so have lots of faith in it.
JohnH
I have the capabilities to tackle this but I would need a friendly place to do this work, a place to drain diesel to and at least another person to help. I was wondering if anyone anywhere in the country would want to swap services. I help you tackle yours and vice versa. We do both coaches at the same time. We pump diesel from my tank to yours in order to get the tank out and vice versa. I believe my generator fuel line has already been replaced so I would only be doing the engine lines (I think). I feel like I'm going to have this issue because I already know I have a hole in the line between the primary and secondary fuel filter. This would probably be sometime in the next 2 months or so we are going to be all over the place so we could probably meet anyone anywhere, especially florida would be good later on. You'd basically have to provide me a place to park for the duration though obviously. I'd be happy to help with anything else you might want to hit along the way too like coolant hoses. Though the rubber ones that connect to the transmission cooler heat exchanger are the worst thing ever.
In the mean time I'm going to buy some of that silicone repair tape and remain hopeful.
JohnH, just a suggestion and you probally know this, use a sweep 90 it would help with the pull ^.^d
Yep I did know but thanks anyway.
I would pull the pipe thru each piece first then glue together as I go. Did this with the 6/3 wire when I installed the outside 30amp plug for guests in driveway. That was 100' long and was easy doing it this way.
JohnH
Rescue tape......good stuff.
Roland